Expedition cruises usually sail from Iceland to east Greenland, or up west Greenland.

West Greenland is milder and has more settlements than the east, making it ideal for Inuit interaction. But hunting practices mean you’re more likely to see wildlife in the east, which explains why I was disappointed with how few whales, seals and walruses I saw in the west. I also didn’t expect so little ice – its shingle landscape often reminded me of a quarry.

However, I sailed through Kangerlussuaq fjord beneath the midnight sun; crawled into Sisimiut’s charming turf house; gazed at the spectacular Unesco-listed Ilulissat Icefjord; and chugged on a fisherman’s boat past icebergs that blew me away. Most itineraries stop at Qeqertarsuaq next, for its sparkling black sand beaches. I called at Niaqornat instead, a hamlet of 25 people. Battling mosquitos, I chatted to locals who I’ve kept in touch with. I also strolled around Upernavik’s gallery, church and cemetery; you can meet Inuit at Kullorsuaq’s fish market and ulu knife artisans in Savissivik, too. Few cruisers make it to Siorapaluk, Greenland’s northernmost native settlement.

If sailing up east Greenland, look out for beluga and bowhead whales. You might explore Nansen Fjord or visit the settlement Ittoqqortoormiit at the mouth of Scoresby Sund, the world’s largest fjord. Gawp at icebergs as tall as department stores, Vikingebugt’s basalt columns and hike the world’s largest national park. Myggbukta’s dilapidated whaling and meteorological station is another highlight, as are King Oskar and Kaiser Franz Josef Fjords.