East Africa Travel Guide - Horizon Guides

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In the league table of natural wonders, the eastern swathe of the African continent ranks as a global superpower.

In East Africa, where the grinding of plate tectonics has carved a unique geology and sweeping range of habitats, you'll find a land of superlatives: the biggest concentrations of the very largest land animals, the world's deepest lake, the highest mountains in Africa, the list goes on.

And it is this that cements East Africa's place as a tourism heavy hitter. From the wildebeest migration that sweeps across the grasslands of Tanzania and Kenya, the "Big Five" of the Masai Mara, and the great apes of Rwanda, Uganda and the DRC, this is a place that is virtually synonymous with safari and wildlife tourism.

Hidden gems in East Africa

East Africa

Lesser-known gorilla safari locations

Philip Briggs

There are a couple of parks in west-central Africa where western lowland gorillas can be seen in the wild. These are the Congo Republic’s Odzala-Kokoua National Park and Central African Republic’s Dzanga-Sangha Forest Reserve, both of which protect vast tracts of lowland rainforest inhabited by the likes of forest elephant, lowland bongo and chimpanzee. At the moment, these parks only really cater to high-end fly-in gorilla safaris and are difficult to reach on a normal holiday or travel budget.

Mgahinga Gorilla National Park

Uganda's hidden gem

Philip Briggs

Mgahinga, set on the Ugandan slope of the Virungas, is my personal favourite among East Africa’s gorilla tracking destinations. True, there’s only one habituated group here, but if you can secure one of the park’s eight daily permits, you're in for a special experience. This is because the group in question is overseen by a trio of massive male siblings, making for superb silverback viewing. In addition, the gorillas here are generally found in bamboo forest or other relatively open areas, hiking conditions are usually quite undemanding, and low tourist volumes give the park a relatively off-the-beaten-track feel. What’s more, the location, below the volcanic Virunga peaks, is utterly spectacular, and other activities on offer include golden monkey tracking and various volcano hikes.

Bwindi Impenetrable National Park

Best all-round gorilla trekking in Bwindi

Philip Briggs

Bwindi vies with Volcanoes National Park as Africa's best all-round gorilla tracking destination. Its densely forested slopes are home to 45% of the world’s mountain gorilla population, and a total of 23 habituated groups means that 180-plus permits are available daily. True, tracking conditions are generally less predictable than they are in Rwanda, and the denser foliage can sometimes make it more difficult to obtain clear views. But this is mitigated by the fact that permits are less than half the price (in other words, you could track here on two successive days and pay less than you would for a single excursion in Rwanda) and by the park’s relative accessibility to independent travellers. Be aware that there are four discrete tracking hubs in Bwindi. Each hub is serviced by its own cluster of lodges, so it is important you coordinate your permit and accommodation booking around the same place. The oldest hub is Buhoma, which usually offers the easiest hiking conditions, is accessible on public transport, and has the widest range of accommodation (from luxury lodges to simple local guesthouses) but is also the most likely for permits to be booked solid months in advance. Nkuringo hub offers the most challenging tracking (almost always bookended by a steep one-hour descent and two-hour ascent). Rushaga has the most permits, with 9 habituated groups resident, so it is good for last minute bookings. Ruhija is the only tracking hub set deep within the park, rather than on the periphery, which makes it highly alluring for other wildlife and birding.

Volcanoes National Park

Accessible gorilla trekking in Volcanoes National Park

Philip Briggs

Experience

Volcanoes National Park, which protects the Rwandan slopes of the volcanic Virunga Mountains, has positioned itself as Africa’s premier gorilla tracking destination. One reason for its popularity is that it lies a short drive north of the Rwandan capital Kigali, making it a convenient add-on to any multi-country African trip or Big Five safari elsewhere in the region. Another is the association with Dian Fossey; the iconic primatologist worked here for two decades prior to her death, and several scenes in the Oscar-winning movie Gorillas in the Mist were shot here too. In my experience, Volcanoes generally offers relatively easy tracking conditions compared to Bwindi, its main rival, and the range of luxury lodges bordering the park is second to none. A negative for budget conscious visitors is the relatively hefty price tag of US$1,500 for one of the park’s 96 daily tracking permits. Once here, other recommended activities include tracking a habituated troop of endangered golden monkeys, the day climb to the spectacular crater lake at 3,711m summit of Mount Bisoke, and a hike to Dian Fossey’s grave at her abandoned research centre.

Serengeti National Park

Bush Rover Migration Camp

Philip Briggs

Accommodation

The quirkiest mobile camp, and absolutely one of my favourites places to stay anywhere in Tanzania, is Bush Rover Migration Camp. This consists of six double-story standing tents built around the converted Land Rovers used to transport them between different locales. The ground-floor toilet and shower for each unit is actually built into the Land Rover, while the upper floor comprises a canvas bedroom with a balcony from which you can safely watch passing wildlife or stargaze after dark. The camp sets up in the southern Serengeti over December to March for the calving season, before relocating the Western Corridor to catch the northward migration over June to mid-July, then heading further north, along with the wildebeest, to the Mara River area over August to October.

Mahale Mountains National Park

Greystoke Mahale

Philip Briggs

Accommodation

Arriving at Greystoke, you could be forgiven for thinking you've washed up on a jungle-swathed Indian Ocean island. This idyllic beach camp stands on Lake Tanganyika, a beautiful inland sea that ranks as the world's longest freshwater body, and reportedly the least polluted. Greystoke is the perfect base for tracking chimpanzees in Mahale Mountains – on two previous visits, these hirsute apes have actually walked through camp – and it also offers dhow trips out onto the lake. In common with Chada and Sand River, Greystoke is owned by Nomad Tanzania, a locally-based company that operates several of the country’s most alluring and exclusive bush camps

Katavi National Park

Chada Katavi

Philip Briggs

Accommodation

When it comes to that classic bush feel, few safari camps can match Chada. Set in remote and little visited Katavi National Park, this low-footprint camp comprises just six standing tents scattered in a tall acacia glade overlooking a vast floodplain alive with buffalo, hippo and other wildlife. The tents are very spacious, but simply decorated, with old-school bucket showers and eco-toilets. Chada really comes alive at night: I’ve had elephants nibbling on fallen acacia pods all around my tent here, and almost invariably heard hyenas whooping and lions grunt-roaring across the floodplain.

Nyerere National Park

Sand Rivers

Philip Briggs

Accommodation

Probably my favourite lodge in Nyerere National Park, Sand Rivers overlooks a wide, sandy bend in the Rufiji, Tanzania's largest river. The open-fronted stone-and-thatch suites here are simply stunning, and there's also a tempting freeform swimming pool set under a massive baobab tree. Whether you explore by boat, in a 4x4, or on foot, there's plenty of wildlife to be seen in the area, and the guides are exceptional. Aside from the exceptional river view, an appealing aspect of Sand River is that it stands some distance from any other camp and too deep into the park to be reached on day safaris from outside.

Nyerere National Park

Roho ya Selous

Philip Briggs

Accommodation

Nyerere is Tanzania's largest national park, extending across 30,000-plus square kilometres, and it offers a more exclusive safari experience than the better-known Serengeti. A great base for exploring it is Roho ya Selous, which means ‘Heart of Selous’ in reference the park’s former name Selous Game Reserve. Set on the shore of Lake Nzerakera, Roho ya Selous consists of eight luxury standing tents spaced along a tract of evergreen waterside forest. The lodge stands in the heart of a rewarding wildlife-viewing circuit where you are sure to see plenty of elephant, buffalo and giraffe, and might well get lucky with lion and African wild dog. A highlight is boat trips on the lake, which is home to large numbers of hippo and plentiful waterbirds.

Ruaha National Park

Jabali Ridge

Philip Briggs

Accommodation

The view from Jabali Ridge is unforgettable. Set on a rocky hill, this stylish boutique lodge offers sweeping vistas across the vast baobab-studded plains of Ruaha National Park and wide sandy arc of the seasonal Mwagusi River. The accommodation is every bit as memorable, comprising as it does eight luxurious cottages built into and around the large rounded granite boulders at the hill’s summit. Jabali Ridge is a superb base for game drives in Ruaha, a relatively off-the-beaten-track safari destination that ranks as Tanzania’s second-largest national park and one of the best for carnivores such as lion, leopard, cheetah and African wild dog. Night drives are often very rewarding and the cuisine is truly outstanding.

Lake Natron

Lake Natron Camp

Philip Briggs

Accommodation

This extraordinary wilderness camp stands on the edge of the blinding white salt flats that enclose caustic Lake Natron. This starkly beautiful Rift Valley setting is dominated by the brooding presence of Ol Doinyo Lengai, one of the world's most active volcanoes. Tanzanian owner-managers Åke and Nangini Lindstrom have designed the camp to be low impact, and the spacious standing tents are shaded by camouflaged netting that helps keep the interior cool whilst reducing the visual impact. Lake Natron Camp stands on a Maasai concession, it only employs local Maasai people and it funds several community projects. Within the concession, you’ll find 120,000-year-old fossil human footprints and a spring-fed stream where you can swim while white-lipped tilapias nibble at your dead skin (a sensation I found oddly addictive once I got used to it).

Serengeti National Park

Ndutu Safari Lodge

Philip Briggs

Accommodation

Wildlife photographers, filmmakers and big cat enthusiasts talk in hushed tones about Ndutu Safari Lodge. Founded in 1968 close to the seasonal lake for which it is named, this down-to-earth lodge offers access to a part of the Serengeti-Ngorongoro ecosystem famed for its high densities of carnivores. Ndutu is an excellent base for catching the wildebeest calving season in February, but large herds of grazers are usually present from December through to April, and there's good cat viewing all year round. It also remains one of the best value lodges in this part of the world, offering accommodation in 34 simple stone-and-thatch cottages with private verandas, and meals in a convivial thatched restaurant where I’ve often seen genets creep around the rafters at night.