Southeast Asia
So much more than the clichés
Is there anywhere on earth more misunderstood and exoticized than Southeast Asia? Decades of backpacker lore and lazy travel writing have cemented all the obvious clichés in the public mind: the beaches, the fiery 'street' food in steamy cities, Buddhist traditions and mountaintop temples. But is this image fair? Or even real?
For every staged photo of a deserted tropical beach there are countless others struggling with the burdens of overtourism. In Southeast Asia 'street' food is just called food. Yes, mainstream culture here is grounded in its Buddhist roots, but not to the exclusion of countless ethnic minorities, lively—sometimes violent—political movements, or rocking music and vibrant creative arts scenes. Most of this is whitewashed (or just outright ignored) by mainstream tourism marketing, much to the detriment of both the people who live here and those who come to visit. Instead, Southeast Asia has become a destination that tourists "do" rather than multi-dimensional places with real people living real lives.
Nearly 10% of the world's population lives in this corner of Asia and there's so much more to see and learn than the clichés would have you believe. Slow down, break out of the luxury resorts, pull up a plastic stool and see what contemporary Southeast Asia is all about. You won't regret it!
Hidden gems in Southeast Asia
Thailand
Loy Krathong & Yi Peng festivals
ExperienceAfter Songkran, Thailand's other big nationwide festival is Loy Krathong, when candlelit offerings fill rivers and float through the sky in a moving ritual to release past negativity and start anew. In the north, Loy Krathong coincides with another festival, Yi Peng, when vast clouds of paper lanterns are released into the air. It's a breathtaking sight that is certain to awe the kids. Just don't think about where all those lanterns eventually come back down to earth... Note that downtown Chaing Mai gets fairly rowdy at this time of year with lots of fireworks in the streets. The date changes each year but it’s usually in November, always on a full moon.
Read moreThailand
Wet and wild at Songkran
ExperienceThe Songkran holiday is now a full-blown water war waged by hose, pistol, balloon and bucket, but it began centuries ago with more gentle water splashing which remains part of a cleansing ritual still seen at temples. The festival runs from 13th to 15th April nationwide, although Chiang Mai adds extra soakage days and the Mon enclave of Phra Phradaeng, near Bangkok, throws its own unique style of Songkran a week later. A word of warning: it's all good fun, but it does get boisterous and tourists are seen as prize targets. Keep your electronics indoors, and fully expect to get drenched.
Read moreBorneo
Indigenous cultures & conservation on the Kahayan River
The Kahayan River, immediately east of Sebangu National Park, is a real hidden gem which doesn't feature highly on most 'mainstream' orangutan-spotting itineraries. The main reason I recommend the Kahayan River to almost anyone who visits Indonesian Borneo is because it's here that you can combine wildlife spotting with real and meaningful cultural interactions with the indigenous Dayak people which is, I believe, key to ensuring the long-term survival of both the orangutans and the people who live here. You access the Kahayan River from the town of Palangkaraya, which is close to the forested island of Pulau Kaja. This is a pre-release habitat for rescued orangutans managed by the Borneo Orangutan Survival Foundation, and it's possible to spot orangutans from the river. Downstream from Palangkaraya are Dayak villages of Bukit Rawi, Sigi Tumbang Nusa and Pilang, where you can learn about indigenous religion, cultures and traditional livelihoods. At night the captain will simply find a sheltered location on the bank to moor the boat – it's a true expedition! If you're solely interested in tracking orangutans, the Kahayan River area might not be for you (although it can be easily combined with a visit to nearby Sebangu National Park). However, if you're remotely interested in traditional culture and the interaction of cultural preservation and wildlife conservation, I can't recommend this area highly enough.
Read moreTanjung Puting National Park
Tanjung Puting National Park & Camp Leakey
“One of the natural wonders of the world”, according to the UK’s Orangutan Foundation, Taman Nasional (National Park) Tanjung Puting is home to the world's largest population of wild orangutans and represents their best hope for survival. It was at Tanjung Puting in 1971 that leading orangutan authority Dr Biruté Galdikas established the Camp Leakey research station — an instrumental step in bringing the plight of the park’s most famous resident to worldwide attention. Set amid the largest swathe of coastal tropical heath and peat swamp forest, which used to cover much of southern Borneo, Tanjung Puting started out as a game reserve in 1935 before becoming a National Park in 1982. The best way to experience the wonders of Tanjung Puting is on a traditional klotok (houseboat) puttering gently along Sungai Sekonyer as you search for pot-bellied macaques, hornbills and the odd crocodile. Starting from the Kumai river port in the central Kalimantan city of Pangkalan Bun, your guides will typically stop at three main feeding stations within the park, where you will get to experience semi-wild orangutans during feeding sessions. The best option for this is at Tanjung Harapan, but you’ll also stop at Pondok Tangui. Your final destination will be Camp Leakey, a 4-4 ½ hour journey upriver. From the docking point, be prepared for a 45-minute walk to the first feeding platform at Camp Leakey, on a flat and well-maintained path. Here, as well as orangutans, you will see Bornean bearded pigs, gibbons and mangrove-loving proboscis. Camp Leakey is your best chance to see orangutans — most were released around here and stay close to the site. In general, orangutans around Camp Leakey are the most relaxed around humans. Look out for Tom, the camp’s alpha male (but if you do see him, be careful not to engage in a staring match). Once feeding time is over, you can explore the camp’s excellent information centre. Tanjung Puting offers plenty of other activities including birding, hiking and wildlife tours — as well as cultural trips to remote villages.
Read moreSebangau National Park
Sebangau National Park and Katingan River
Sebangau National Park is rarely visited by tourists and has been at serious risk from illegal logging and land conversion, which is why I'm so keen to encourage visitors to come here. The Katingan River flows through Sebangau and its forest-lined banks offer a wonderful experience for intrepid travellers. You can canoe through the canals and trek into the park from the river, going via tiny indigenous villages to track orangutans, wild proboscis monkeys and gibbons. You might see sun bears, or even an elusive clouded leopard, as well as spotting many bird species – I have seen one of the most endangered birds - Storm’s stork - as well many magnificent hornbills, kingfishers and raptors. Trekking through the swampy forests in Sebangau can be a challenge as trails are either non-existent or very hard to follow. It's not for the faint-hearted, but Sebangau is a true hidden gem in Kalimantan and one I can highly recommend.
Read moreAn Giang
Nui Cam trail
ExperienceThe guided Nui Cam trek is actually a 21km-trail run, which was designed a few years ago for an annual race. The trail begins in rice paddies before ascending through fruit farms and waterfalls. This is a deeply spiritual part of the Mekong Delta, and highlights of this trek are the atmospheric shrines tended to by smiley caretakers.
Read moreDalat
Ta Nang Phan Dung trek
ExperienceThis is one of several organised treks that involve a pick-up in Dalat and drop-off on the coast. Transfer by car to begin the trek in Ta Nang, a district of pine forests and rice paddies, before hiking into Phan Dung, a neighbouring district with gushing rivers and lush farmland. You’ll then be collected and driven to the beach town of Mui Ne.
Read moreBach Ma National Park
Rhododendron Falls trail
ExperienceBach Ma National Park has several excellent trails, and more are being created as the area tries to promote adventure tourism. Rhododendron Falls Trail is one of the most popular hikes. It’s suitable for families, passes a panoramic viewpoint, and the highlight is a thundering waterfall with rock pools that are good for swimming.
Read moreSon Doong & Phong Nha Caves
Son Doong cave expedition
ExperienceThe British Cave Research Association helped launch this tour with Oxalis Adventure, a local company, with limited numbers and a strict route to protect the integrity of the cave. This includes guides, porters, a cave expert and food, and it remains the only way to explore Son Doong Cave. Son Doong is a unique trekking experience, with underground jungles, giant ceiling collapses, ethereal campsites and stalagmites the size of multi-storey buildings. If you think caving is crawling around in narrow spaces, think again – some of these chambers can fit aeroplanes with room to spare. Whenever I mention the Son Doong Expedition, people usually question the expense of the all-inclusive tour – USD $3,000 – and I always say the same thing. Yes, it’s expensive, especially for Vietnam. But this cave is one of the world’s great wonders. Many people are happy to pay that much to go skiing in the Alps for a week – and the Son Doong Cave Expedition surely beats that. If the Son Doong Expedition is over budget, consider one of more than a dozen other caving experiences in Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park, including the hike to En Cave, Pygmy Cave or the Tu Lan cave system.
Read moreHa Giang
Ha Giang Skypath
ExperienceI couldn’t complete this guide without mentioning a short half-day hike that I discovered recently. The Skypath is a lofty path that clings to the cliffs high above the Nho Que River and Ma Pi Leng Mountain Pass, one of Ha Giang’s (and Asia’s) most extraordinary roads. Starting at Ma Pi Leng Village, the path ascends through farmland to a great white cliff before descending through hamlets. The path finishes at Ma Pi Leng Ecolodge, which serves refreshments. From there it’s possible to hitch back to Ma Pi Leng Village. Ha Giang is becoming very popular, but few seem to know that the Skypath exists. Trekkers are likely to have the trail entirely to themselves, bar the occasional farmer. No guide required.
Read morePu Luong
Ban Don to Ban Hieu hike
ExperienceThis is an easy hike you could do without a guide. Starting from Ban Don, a village with a number of cosy mountain lodges that offer views of the surrounding rice terraces, the trail descends through forests and farms before running along rivers and cutting through hamlets. Eventually the trail reaches Ban Hieu, a picturesque village built on a waterfall.
Read moreSapa
Sapa multi-day hikes
ExperienceUnfortunately, the town of Sapa suffers from overdevelopment and is one of my least favourite places in the country. But those that find Sapa disappointing seem to be the ones that base themselves in town and attempt day trips from there. Instead, engage a reputable tour company, tell them what you want and they will get you well away from the standard tourist traps. I don’t recommend trekking in Sapa without a guide. The trails and homestays (accommodation with local families) are unmarked, and travellers that attempt their own treks often end up lost or where they don’t want to be (e.g. on a road, near a hydroelectric plant, facing a quarry etc.). Besides, employing a guide is one of the best ways to learn about Sapa’s cultures and support local families. The majority of guides are women from local ethnolinguistic groups, and they usually speak decent English.
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Loy Krathong & Yi Peng festivals
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Wet and wild at Songkran
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Indigenous cultures & conservation on the Kahayan River
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Tanjung Puting National Park & Camp Leakey
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Sebangau National Park and Katingan River
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See rescued elephants (ethically)
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Enter the belly of an elephant near Bangkok
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