Rudolf Abraham is an award-winning travel journalist, photographer and guidebook author. He writes on trekking and hiking for National Geographic, the BBC, Cicerone, DK Eyewitness, Bradt Guides, among many others.
Trekking in Torres Del Paine
Torres del Paine's best hiking routes and trails
Trekking in Torres del Paine offers some of the most sublimely beautiful scenery I’ve seen anywhere on the planet.
Most famously, the Full Circuit trek is a truly epic 10-day trek through soaring, spectacular mountains, studded with jewel-like lakes and edged with vast, creaking glaciers – and the shorter W route is almost as good.
I’ll never forget my first, jaw-dropping view of the Grey Glacier on the Torres Circuit – or the screaming winds on the pass above it. Trails are well established, and there are large well-equipped lodges along the trail – you can now do the whole of the W without needing to carry a tent (which certainly wasn’t the case when I first hiked it), but you’ll need to camp on a few stages along the northern part of the Circuit.
If such a remarkable place can have a downside, it would be that it’s become a victim of its own success: with a narrow tourism season and a buoyant tourism industry, Torres del Paine gets busy indeed.
Ready to go? Read on for my essential guide to trekking in Torres del Paine National Park.
The best treks in Torres del Paine
Popular – and lesser known – treks
If you're coming all this way, I highly recommend going all-in and doing the Full Circuit (otherwise known as the 'O Circuit'). It's more remote, less crowded than the W, with views that are even more epic in scale. There's a reason it regularly tops lists of the world's greatest treks.
Torres del Paine National Park
Torres del Paine Full Circuit
ExperienceDespite the huge number of visitors, and Chile’s insistence on building a large number of lodges as well as luxury hotels within the national park, I still consider this one of the most breathtakingly beautiful hikes on the planet. If your hiking boots demand more, this is the trek for you. You’ll spend days with rivers, glaciers, mountains, and take in wild, rugged views which stretch out as far as you can see. The Full Circuit makes its way around the entire Paine Massif, taking in the same highlights as the W Trek – plus so much more.
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Torres del Paine W trek
ExperienceTorres del Paine is Chile's big-hitter, pulling more trekkers than the rest of the country combined. The views are unparalleled, trekking infrastructure and services are world-class, the only downside is the park’s seemingly unlimited appeal which means you’ll be sharing the views with plenty of other hikers. This shorter version of the Full Circuit includes many – but definitely not all – of its highlights, and is the busiest section of the national park. Despite preferring the Circuit because of the wonderfully remote northern half of the trail, the W is still an incredible hike, and given the chance I’d do it again in a heartbeat.
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Mirador Las Torres day hike
ExperienceIf you don’t have time for the W or the Circuit but want a glimpse of that amazing view of the granite towers which give the area its name at dawn, this one might be for you. However it’s a long ascent, and frankly if you’re going to Torres del Paine National Park and hiking this which forms part of the W anyway, I think it would be an enormous shame not to do the whole thing!
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Mirador Los Cuernos and Salto Grande
ExperienceI think this short hike packs more of a punch than any other short walk in Torres del Paine National Park, and is a must whether or not you’re doing either the W or the Circuit. This is the view of the famous ‘horns’ of Paine, with a mighty waterfall thrown in for good measure. The trail follows the northern shore of Lake Nordenskjöld between two accompanying and juxtaposing sights. On the one hand, the multi-shaded drama of the Cuernos (horns), jutting up into the sky; and on the other, the arresting blue of the lake. This fairly flat hike holds a lot of appeal as it fringes Lake Nordenskjöld with its startling shades of blue. If you’re looking for one of the best photo ops of Torres del Paine’s iconic peaks, look no further. This hike has it. Paso Los Cuernos hiking route holds some of the best views of the iconic Los Cuernos. The picturesque cuernos are made of black slate sitting atop a grey granite base. This layered combination of colours, along with their twisted horn shape, win them their fame. It’s common for hikers to complete this trek between Refugio Los Cuernos and one of the park’s hotels. It’s also part of the W and Paine Circuit trails, so you’ll see regular traffic during spring and summer.
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Grey Lake and Glacier Grey day hike
ExperienceSeen from afar or studied up close, the exquisite Glacier Grey is a true Torres del Paine highlight. Take in the ice monolith from its lookout point, then come up close and personal on a boat trip that brings you within metres of the intricate puzzle of blue, white, glass and turquoise ice. Most day hikes follow a trail that leads to a lookout point that affords stunning views of the glacier and offers a sense of its immense size. Trips may or may not complete the entire walk, as the trail involves several ascents and descents that not everyone will be prepared for. Check with your operator. Afterwards you’ll board a small boat on Lake Grey to sail among the icebergs right up to the glacier’s ice wall. From up close you’ll see countless hues of blue and impossibly complex ice structures. If you’re lucky you’ll see a glacial calving, where ice breaks off from the constantly moving glacier. As with the rest of Patagonia, the weather here is changeable and boat trips may sometimes be cancelled depending on conditions. Trips with fewer than the minimum 10 passengers may also be called off. Check with your operator on their contingency plans.
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French Valley and Lake Pehoe day hike
ExperienceTorres del Paine’s splendid French Valley (Valle del Francés) is a naturally-formed amphitheatre encircled by sheer cliffs, hanging glaciers and dramatic rock formations. The valley rewards hikers for their efforts with a 360-degree view of the park where the elements and scenery play off each other as if competing for your attention. As you stand surrounded by the valley, the peaks, cliffs and glaciers will make you feel humble and small, and yet energised and intimately connected to your surroundings. To reach French Valley you’ll first take a catamaran journey across Pehoé Lake, followed by a 1.5 hour hike up glacial moraines towards the valley’s entry point. Some operators also include an easy detour to the Salto Grande waterfalls on the way. Once in the valley you’ll be bowled over by the 360 degree view that envelopes you as you venture further into the valley until you’re fully encircled. The valley’s geology amplifies the groan and roar of glacial calving as ice breaks off the constantly flowing French Glacier. You’ll get stunning views of the park’s most impressive formations: the Hoja (Blade), Máscara (Mask), Espada (Sword), Catedral (Cathedral), Aleta de Tiburón (Shark’s Fin) and Fortaleza (Fortress), plus views of Paine Grande, the highest mountain in Torres del Paine at 2,884m (9,462ft). The lakes of Torres del Paine get their otherworldly, milky-blue hues from particles of "rock flour”, caused by the steady grinding of rock and ice under the region’s vast glaciers and ice sheets. Like most of Torres del Paine’s main sights, the French Valley is best accessed during the warmer months. As it gets cold, severe weather can come without warning and completely blanket the views of the valley.
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Torres del Paine Full Circuit
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Torres del Paine W trek
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Mirador Las Torres day hike
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Mirador Los Cuernos and Salto Grande
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Grey Lake and Glacier Grey day hike
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French Valley and Lake Pehoe day hike
Trekking in Torres del Paine
Everything you wish you’d known before you booked
Booking made simpler
Booking made simpler
The mandatory booking system in Torres del Paine means that you need to book and pay for all lodges (run by two different companies) and campsites, as well as your national park entry fee online, on three different websites. This is a rather different picture from when I first hiked in the park over 15 years ago, at which time you could still just turn up without booking anything in advance. Booking an organised Torres del Paine trek will make all these headaches go away.
Alternatives to Torres del Paine
Yes, Torres del Paine is an amazing place – but it’s not the be all and end all of hiking in Patagonia. The Mt Fitzroy area around Argentina’s Los Glaciares National Park is every bit as beautiful, and less crowded. It’s excellent when done as a multi-day trek with a tent – which means you’ll get to experience sunrise at Laguna Torre (facing the slender spire of Cerro Torre) and Laguna de los Tres (below Mt Fitzroy). For my money this is the finest trek in Patagonia.
Carry a water filter
Supporting tourism in such a remote part of the world takes considerable resources: virtually everything you need has to be shipped in and the environmental impact is significant. One small but important thing you can do is to carry a water filter, and not buy bottled water. I always carry a small filter. A Peak Series Collapsible Squeeze Filter from LifeStraw for example weighs next to nothing, takes up hardly any space in your pack, and means you can fill up water pretty much whenever you need along the trail. Not to mention preventing a large number of plastic bottles potentially ending up in landfill.
Be prepared for all weather
If you manage to go on a hiking trip to Patagonia without at least one day of rain or screaming winds (I certainly haven’t), you probably deserve a special prize. Make sure you carry suitable waterproof and warm clothing.
Torres del Paine trekking FAQs
Your questions, our expert answers
Question
Do you recommend the W or the Circuit or something else?
Answer
For me it’s the Circuit which eclipses pretty much anything else in Torres del Paine National Park – it’s more remote, less crowded than the W, with views that are even more epic in scale. Not for nothing is it often described as one of the world’s truly great treks. However I also really love the Fitzroy area in Argentina, where the scenery is every bit as amazing, and where unlike Torres del Paine the national park has not allowed the construction of lodges (let alone luxury hotels), meaning overnights are restricted to well maintained campsites. For my money, that gives the place a much more unspoilt and untouched feel.
Question
Which direction should I walk?
Answer
The Circuit can only be walked in an anticlockwise direction. The W can be hiked in either direction, and which you chose will dictate whether you’re hiking against or with a lot of the other hiking traffic. I prefer east to west for the W, which means in the opposite direction from those on the Circuit, and because Glacier Grey arguably makes the best finale.
Question
Can you trek without a guide in Torres del Paine?
Answer
The W and the Circuit as well as the shorter walks in Torres del Paine National Park are well-known and well-used, the routes are well marked, and you’ll find plenty of other hikers on the trail – so yes, hiking independently is fine. I’ve hiked independently on the treks listed above. Whether you go solo or with one or more hikers is up to you and depends on your level of confidence – the northern part of the Circuit is quite remote, for example. If you’re camping, hiking with one or more other people allows you to share the weight of a tent, food and other camping equipment.
Question
Do I have to book Torres del Paine campsites in advance?
Answer
Booking is mandatory for Torres del Paine. You can only hike the W or the Circuit of you have all accommodation booked in advance (and it gets booked out fast, so get this done as far ahead of your planned visit as possible), as well as paying the entrance fee for the national park. This is the case whether you’re camping or staying at lodges, and you will need to show proof of accommodation bookings and having paid the entrance fee in order to enter the national park.
Question
What sort of accommodations should I expect?
Answer
Torres del Paine National Park has big lodges as well as campsites – not to mention some very upmarket hotels. I prefer using a mixture of lodges and campsites, which keeps costs down a little (and on the northern part of the circuit you’ll have to camp on some of the stages regardless), and having meals at some of the lodges means you can carry a bit less food.
Question
What gear can I rent in Torres del Paine?
Answer
You can easily rent a wide range of camping gear in Puerto Natales, the main gateway town to Torres del Paine.
Question
Is altitude sickness a problem while trekking in Chile?
Answer
Surprisingly, given that the Andes Mountains trace the western edge of Chile from tip to toe, trekking elevations are rarely higher than 1,200 metres. Altitude sickness is therefore not an issue in Chile. The only exception is the Aconcagua Summit trek, where you reach 6,961 metres above sea level at the top.