The Accursed Mountains
The Accursed Mountains (also known, less dramatically, as the Albanian Alps) feel a world away from the rest of Europe.
Stretching across northern Albania and into Kosovo and Montenegro, the range comprises no fewer than 19 peaks that reach higher than 2,400m, with Maja Jezercë standing as the second tallest mountain in Albania. The region offers some of the quietest hiking anywhere in Europe, and is widely offered by specialist walking and trekking companies.
Hikers will enjoy stunning views and quiet national parks, with highlights including the 30m Grunas Waterfall, in Theth National Park, which, when the sun is shining, will produce a rainbow on its surface. Experienced climbers can traverse the cliffside to locate the waterfall's spring.
Surrounded by alpine trees is Hrid Lake, also known as 'the lake of happiness.' Located along the famous 120-mile Peaks of the Balkans hiking trail and accessible from the town of Plav, it is a prime example of the many glacial lakes that have formed in the Accursed Mountains. The Valbona River, which winds its way through The Valbonë Valley National Park, is a popular kayaking spot as well as showcasing a wide variety of birds, trees and mammals. Nature lovers can spot golden eagles and look out for the rare chamois. The area is home to the largest population of grey wolves and brown bears in Europe.
Although the Accursed Mountains are sparsely populated, pretty stone villages—some dating back to the 15th century—are dotted across the range. Theth is a popular base for hikers and has a rich history – there still stands one of the last 'lock-in' towers, a place of safety for those targeted by ancient rivalries.
Europe walking holidays
An expert guide to the best hikes and walks in Europe
Ask any group of keen walkers to name Europe’s best hiking hut and you’ll poke a hornets’ nest. Each will vociferously champion their choice, citing the richest fondue, the iciest beer, the most jaw-dropping views, the cleanest loos. Mine is the homely Auberge de la Nova in Les Chapieux, on the Tour du Mont Blanc: the food is hearty, the café courtyard sunny and shady, the surroundings pleasant...read more