The Accursed Mountains
Welcome to The Accursed Mountains
The insider's travel guide to The Accursed MountainsThe Accursed Mountains (also known, less dramatically, as the Albanian Alps) feel a world away from the rest of Europe.
Stretching across northern Albania and into Kosovo and Montenegro, the range comprises no fewer than 19 peaks that reach higher than 2,400m, with Maja Jezercë standing as the second tallest mountain in Albania. The region offers some of the quietest hiking anywhere in Europe, and is widely offered by specialist walking and trekking companies.
Hikers will enjoy stunning views and quiet national parks, with highlights including the 30m Grunas Waterfall, in Theth National Park, which, when the sun is shining, will produce a rainbow on its surface. Experienced climbers can traverse the cliffside to locate the waterfall's spring.
Surrounded by alpine trees is Hrid Lake, also known as 'the lake of happiness.' Located along the famous 120-mile Peaks of the Balkans hiking trail and accessible from the town of Plav, it is a prime example of the many glacial lakes that have formed in the Accursed Mountains. The Valbona River, which winds its way through The Valbonë Valley National Park, is a popular kayaking spot as well as showcasing a wide variety of birds, trees and mammals. Nature lovers can spot golden eagles and look out for the rare chamois. The area is home to the largest population of grey wolves and brown bears in Europe.
Although the Accursed Mountains are sparsely populated, pretty stone villages—some dating back to the 15th century—are dotted across the range. Theth is a popular base for hikers and has a rich history – there still stands one of the last 'lock-in' towers, a place of safety for those targeted by ancient rivalries.
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2 picks Places & Experiences You Won't Find Elsewhere-
Montenegro has become increasingly popular for walking holidays, and lots of visitors are drawn to its highest peak, long thought to be the 2,523m Bobotov Kuk, in the Durmitor mountains. We now quite regularly see queues on the steep sides of Bobotov Kuk as hikers wait in line to use the fixed ropes and ascend to the top. It’s not the ‘away from the crowds’ experience that’s sold. And what's more – it's no longer the highest point in Montenegro! After some re-measuring a few years back, that title now goes to the 2,534m Zla Kolata in the Accursed Mountains (Prokletije), which Montenegro shares with Albania. If you don't have time for both, my advice is to head for Zla Kolata. The astounding natural beauty of the Prokljetije mountain range will blow you away. And unlike Durmitor, it doesn’t carry the UNESCO label and all the popularity that comes with it.
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See Albania and Kosovo off the beaten path on this 15-day walking holiday itinerary. Start in Albania’s capital of Tirana, before starting your walking trip exploring the port city of Durres, complete with its Roman amphitheatre, before heading to the hills of Berat for Ottoman white-washed houses, historic centre and a working castle. Continue into the Albanian Riviera and the Bay of Vlore’s coastline. Take the ferry across the Vivari Channel to the Butrint National Park’s ruins, before exploring the hillside village of Gjirokastra and Kruja, home of Albanian national hero and military commander, Skanderbeg. Head into nature at Lake Shkodra on the border with Montenegro to see the rare Dalmatian pelican. If you’re feeling adventurous, travel into Albania’s Accursed Mountains for fairytale villages and thick forests, before ending across the border in Kosovo’s Prizren, where you can go wine-tasting and explore the food scene.
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Zla Kolata: a crowd-free hidden gem
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Albania off-the-beaten track
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