Kenya’s wildlife conservancies

Visit Nairobi’s vibrant communities

Day 1 in Nairobi

Most visitors to Kenya simply fly in and out of capital Nairobi – which is a huge mistake. Yes, it might be a concrete jungle when compared with the rest of Kenya’s natural landscapes, but vibrant Nairobi is a centre of art, music and cultural heritage. Take some time to explore the city’s music and food scene and you won’t be disappointed.

Meet the Samburu community preserving wildlife

Day 2–3 in Samburu Game Reserve

Far removed from mainstream Kenyan safari, the three interconnected reserves of Samburu, Buffalo Springs and Shaba have a wild reputation.

The landscape here is harsh with endless sunburnt plains of acacia thornbush out of which rise the occasional fertile and densely forested mountain peaks, ranges, table lands and volcanic plugs.

The Samburu are a nomadic people who have lived within the Samburu Game Reserve for centuries. Make sure to visit Samburu villages if you come to the Reserve – unlike other parts of Kenya, the interaction is non-commercial and non-invasive.

For safaris in Samburu, elephants, in particular, are the main event. There are large herds who tend to migrate huge distances in search of water.

But there are also a few lion prides, leopards, lots of baboons, superb birding and some unusual desert adapted species such as gerenuk, the beautiful reticulated giraffe, the finely striped Grevy’s zebra and the blue-legged Somali ostrich.

Until they were poached out, Northern Kenya was home to huge numbers of black rhino but the good news is that today even those are back – but only in one highly protected location.

See endangered rhinos in Ol Pejeta Game Reserve

Day 4 in Ol Pejeta Conservancy

If you’ve ever wondered what the hide of a rhino feels like, wanted to experience a safari at night or dreamed of running (or riding) in the wild, open air of a safari reserve, head to Ol Pejeta Conservancy.

The conservancy is in the Laikipia region, at the foothills of Mount Kenya. The sanctuary is the largest in East Africa to host black rhino, as well as the world’s last two remaining white northern rhino. Ol Pejeta is also the only place in Kenya where you can see chimpanzees.

Conservation is at its core, with several experiences available for intrepid safari-goers who want to do more than just watch the animals.

Traverse the Great Rift Valley

Day 5 in The Great Rift Valley

The Great Rift Valley stretches across Africa from Mozambique into Lebanon in the Middle East. Dissecting Kenya in two, it’s a great place to see several lakes supporting more than 500 bird species and crocodiles.

Big five safaris in the Maasai Mara

Day 6–7 in Masai Mara National Reserve

The king of Kenya safari, the sweeping grass plains of the Mara (as it’s usually referred to) are home to the densest concentration of large mammals on the planet. This is the place to see large prides of black-manned lions, bellowing elephants, grumpy buffalo and a pick ‘n’ mix box of antelope and gazelles. And that’s before we even touch on the smaller creatures and huge array of birds.

But, above and beyond all else, the Mara is renowned for the spectacular wildebeest migration. From about June to early-October each year, around two million wildebeest and other herbivores leave Tanzania’s Serengeti and splash across the crocodile infested waters of the Mara River in search of fresh, rain-fed grass in the Masai Mara. It’s a spectacular phenomenon and a classic safari experience.

In high seasons (July-September and the Christmas period) there can be hundreds of safari vehicles in the park at any one time, and park rules about approaching animals and sticking to the roads are sometimes ignored by less scrupulous guides (this is a particular problem with super-low budget safaris operating out of Nairobi). I once interviewed a biologist who told me she’d seen about 70 vehicles crowding around one cheetah!

But the Mara is a big place. If you stay in the more remote corners and move your focus away from chasing the big cats and elephants, you can still find tranquillity even in high season.

The other way to avoid the crowds is by visiting in mid-season. Personally I love June when everything is fresh and green after the rains, the wildebeest are starting to arrive but not the tourists, and temperatures are cool and pleasant. There can also be some spectacular thunderstorms at this time. And if the focus of your interest is birdwatching, then the rainy seasons of November and April-May are excellent.

My biggest Mara tip: look beyond the reserve itself. Nowadays the Mara is almost completely surrounded by a series of community-run wildlife conservancies. Offering almost complete exclusivity, if you can afford the often high prices then these are by far the best areas to stay. These conservancies have vastly expanded the amount of land under some kind of protection and they’ve brought real benefits to both wildlife and local communities as well as one of the worlds finest safari experiences for visitors. I can highly recommend Mara North, Naboisho, Nashulai Maasai Conservancy and Ol Dereski, though you’ll likely have an amazing time in any of them.

Return to Nairobi and depart

Day 8 in Nairobi

Enjoy an early breakfast at the camp, checkout and conduct a game drive en-route with an optional opportunity to visit a village of the Maasai people to witness the singing and dancing that is part of their daily lives and sacred rituals.

Transfer to Nairobi in the afternoon, for your onward flight.