Amboseli, Masai Mara and Lake Naivasha itinerary

Visit Nairobi’s vibrant communities

Day 1 in Nairobi

Most visitors to Kenya simply fly in and out of capital Nairobi – which is a huge mistake. Yes, it might be a concrete jungle when compared with the rest of Kenya’s natural landscapes, but vibrant Nairobi is a centre of art, music and cultural heritage. Take some time to explore the city’s music and food scene and you won’t be disappointed.

Get close to elephants in Amboseli National Park

Day 2–3 in Amboseli National Park

Sprawling across the Kenyan-Tanzanian border, the greater Amboseli ecosystem is one of East Africa's preeminent wildlife viewing regions and Amboseli National Park is the postcard park of Kenya.

This is where those photographs of herds of elephants with a backdrop of the (fast melting!) glaciers of Mt Kilimanjaro are taken. The elephants and the scenery are the real highlights of this park, but plenty of other wildlife is attracted to the swamps and marshy pools in what is an otherwise very dry part of Kenya.

Another big reason to visit Amboseli is the chance to see conservation in action in the conservancies and other environmental and community projects surrounding the park.

Traverse the Great Rift Valley

Day 4–5 in The Great Rift Valley

The Great Rift Valley stretches across Africa from Mozambique into Lebanon in the Middle East. Dissecting Kenya in two, it’s a great place to see several lakes supporting more than 500 bird species and crocodiles.

Big five safaris in the Maasai Mara

Day 6–7 in Masai Mara National Reserve

The king of Kenya safari, the sweeping grass plains of the Mara (as it’s usually referred to) are home to the densest concentration of large mammals on the planet. This is the place to see large prides of black-manned lions, bellowing elephants, grumpy buffalo and a pick ‘n’ mix box of antelope and gazelles. And that’s before we even touch on the smaller creatures and huge array of birds.

But, above and beyond all else, the Mara is renowned for the spectacular wildebeest migration. From about June to early-October each year, around two million wildebeest and other herbivores leave Tanzania’s Serengeti and splash across the crocodile infested waters of the Mara River in search of fresh, rain-fed grass in the Masai Mara. It’s a spectacular phenomenon and a classic safari experience.

In high seasons (July-September and the Christmas period) there can be hundreds of safari vehicles in the park at any one time, and park rules about approaching animals and sticking to the roads are sometimes ignored by less scrupulous guides (this is a particular problem with super-low budget safaris operating out of Nairobi). I once interviewed a biologist who told me she’d seen about 70 vehicles crowding around one cheetah!

But the Mara is a big place. If you stay in the more remote corners and move your focus away from chasing the big cats and elephants, you can still find tranquillity even in high season.

The other way to avoid the crowds is by visiting in mid-season. Personally I love June when everything is fresh and green after the rains, the wildebeest are starting to arrive but not the tourists, and temperatures are cool and pleasant. There can also be some spectacular thunderstorms at this time. And if the focus of your interest is birdwatching, then the rainy seasons of November and April-May are excellent.

My biggest Mara tip: look beyond the reserve itself. Nowadays the Mara is almost completely surrounded by a series of community-run wildlife conservancies. Offering almost complete exclusivity, if you can afford the often high prices then these are by far the best areas to stay. These conservancies have vastly expanded the amount of land under some kind of protection and they’ve brought real benefits to both wildlife and local communities as well as one of the worlds finest safari experiences for visitors. I can highly recommend Mara North, Naboisho, Nashulai Maasai Conservancy and Ol Dereski, though you’ll likely have an amazing time in any of them.

Return to Nairobi and depart

Day 8 in Nairobi

Enjoy an early breakfast at the camp, checkout and conduct a game drive en-route with an optional opportunity to visit a village of the Maasai people to witness the singing and dancing that is part of their daily lives and sacred rituals.

Transfer to Nairobi in the afternoon, for your onward flight.