Off the beaten path in Rajasthan

Visit the Golden Triangle & Taj Mahal

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The Golden Triangle cities of Delhi, Agra and Jaipur are all located within 250km of each other and can be covered by road or rail. This is a trail filled with history and laced with stories — you get to see forts and palaces, mosques and mausoleums.

The iconic Taj Mahal is on everyone’s itinerary but there is also the Red Fort, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Old Delhi is more fascinating with its monuments and markets, while colourful Jaipur offers palaces and forts.

Rajasthan and the Golden Triangle is a firm fixture in India's tourism industry and the region has excellent travel infrastructure and services for all travel types and budgets.

Plan for a minimum of five days to see the Golden Triangle — but more is always better.

Take a holy dip in Pushkar Lake

Other notable temples include the Brahma Temple in Pushkar, which is one of the few in India dedicated to Brahma. This Hindu god was said to be cursed with having no places of worship on earth. Take a holy dip in Pushkar Lake before offering your prayers in the temple.

Explore ornate havelis

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Havelis (mansions) were the homes of rich merchants and traders in Rajasthan’s cities. Decorated with stone carvings and interiors of murals and frescoes, each merchant tried to outdo the next to show their importance and wealth.

Every major city in Rajasthan will have havelis worth visiting, but Jaisalmer is a particular hotspot. Look out for the Patwon Ki haveli and the elephants of Nathmal Ki haveli.

Explore Rajasthan's hill forts and palaces

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These sprawling complexes often housed whole cities within them, including palaces, temples and trading centres. Built on hillsides, these forts used natural defences to protect themselves, such as forests, deserts and of course, hills. The views from the forts are spectacular.

Although initially conceived for protection from invading armies, these forts quickly became more extravagant as royal families settled in. Some of the best examples of Rajput architecture can be found in its palaces. Two of the most striking are the Hawa Mahal in Jaipur and the City Palace in Udaipur. Look out for the sheesh mahal (hall of mirrors).

Visiting these forts is a chance to experience and imagine Rajasthan in its Rajput period, when kingdoms nudged up against each other and courtly culture helped develop the region’s arts, textiles and music.

There are eight main hill forts in Rajasthan, clustered around the Aravalli mountains. Designated as UNESCO World Heritage sites, these forts were built by Rajput kings and date from the 5th century.

Explore Ranthambore Fort

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Ranthambore is named after the towering Ranthambore Fort which was built in the 10th century. It stands 700ft tall, with three temples dedicated to Shiva, Ganesh and Ramlalji. There is a colourful Ganesh Chaturthi Fair which is celebrated in the fort’s temple during August/September every year. Look for the ancient Jain temples built in the 12th-13th centuries, the 32-pillared cenotaph and an old mansion called Sameton Ki Haveli.

Safari in Ranthambore National Park

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Located in the heart of Sawai Madhopur district, Ranthambore National Park is a tiger reserve and former hunting ground of maharajas. A couple of hours drive from Jaipur, it’s home to just under 100 Bengal tigers, as well as leopards, crocodiles, sloth bears and hyenas.

It also includes the neighbouring Sawai Mansingh and the Keladevi sanctuaries. Spread over 400 square km, the wildlife reserve is a combination of dry deciduous forests and open grasslands with more than 500 species of plants.

Ranthambore is one of the most important tiger sanctuaries in India, but the tiger population has reduced due to poaching. However, this is still the best place to spot tigers in India. Make sure you use a reputable guide and respect the animals if you choose to go on safari. You’ll be able to choose from either a canter truck which sits 20, or a more personalised jeep which sits six.

As well as tigers, the park is home to leopards, wild boars, wild dogs, hyenas, wild cats, sambar and chital deer, sloth bears and crocodiles among other wildlife.

Look out for the giant banyan tree near Jogi Mahal -- this gigantic banyan is thought to be the second largest in India and more than 200 years old.

Spot tigers in Sariska National Park

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Sariska National Park is a tiger reserve nestled in the heart of the Aravalli Mountains. Spread over 866 square km, Sariska’s landscape is a combination of thorny scrub forests and rocky landscapes.

Sariska has lost many tigers to poaching over the years. In the last decade, the park has introduced new cubs to the reserve which have successfully integrated into the environment, giving hope that Sariska’s tiger population can grow again.

Besides tigers, the park is home to leopards, wild boars, wild dogs, hyenas, wild cats and many deer. You can also see crocodiles in Siliserh Lake. The park is also rich in birdlife, with plenty of peacocks, crested serpent eagles, vultures and the Indian eagle owl.

Sariska was a hunting lodge of the Maharajas of Alwar and it became a wildlife reserve in 1955. It was part of Project Tiger (a conservation programme launched by the Government of India in 1973 to protect the Bengal tiger from extinction), becoming a national park in 1990.

In recent years, the park’s tiger population has struggled. In 2004, Sariska was found to have no tigers left, leading Rajasthan’s local government to introduce three tigers from Ranthambore in 2005. Controversially, the government also relocated two villages said to encroach on the habitat of the tigers. As of 2018, there are believed to be 18 tigers resident in Sariska.

Sariska is located close to Jaipur at 122km and Delhi at 200km away, which are the closest airports. You can hire a taxi and drive to Alwar and Sariska. The entry fee for a safari cost R470 per person and R400 for video camera. The best time to visit is October to March if you want to avoid the heat.

Birdwatching in Keoladeo National Park

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Previously known as Bharatpur Bird Sanctuary, the Keoladeo Ghana National Park is located in Bharatpur and is almost equidistant from both Delhi (180km) and Jaipur (178km). A UNESCO World Heritage site, Keoladeo is a birdwatcher’s dream and is home to more than 370 different species of bird. Of these, approximately 230 are resident in the park, with the rest migratory.

Known locally as Ghana, Keoladeo is a man-made wetland spread over 30 square km. Created by Maharaj Suraj Mal more than 250 years ago, the park was previously a hunting ground for kings and was used as a duck shoot during British rule.

Visitors come to see painted storks, cormorants, cranes and several species of eagle. While in the area, visit Lohagarh Fort, which contains palaces, museums and cultural artefacts.

See Bundi art in Chitrashala

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Bundi is known for its miniature paintings and murals and there is a story behind them.

In the 16th century when the Hadoti kings broke away from Mewar and befriended the Mughals, Emperor Akbar of the Mughals sent three artists from Chunar near Varanasi as “gifts” to the royal court. The artists shifted their canvas from palm leaf manuscripts to walls. Armed with a thin brush that had a single hair, they created the minute details of Bundi art that mixes Rajput and Mughal influences.

To see the best of Bundi art, you must head to the Chitrashala, an art gallery tucked away in the Umed Bhavan, a part of the Bundi Palace. The entire gallery is a riot of colours with paintings depicting mythology, deities, temples and some beautiful and bold portraits of Rajasthani women. The colours are in vivid shades of turquoise and teal. There is even an Indian version of Romeo and Juliet.

Cruise around Udaipur Lake Palace

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Shimmering white on Lake Pichola, the Lake Palace is a beautiful monument right on the water. Now a luxury hotel, Lake Palace was originally a royal summer palace called Jag Nivas. Entry is restricted to hotel guests, but take a cruise to view its marble edifice laced with semi-precious stones.

Get crafty in Udaipur

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While Udaipur is a romantic city filled with magnificent palaces and sunset cruises, it is also known for its local arts and crafts, silverware and paintings. Visit the Bharatiya Lok Kala Mandal institution, dedicated to the region’s folk arts and crafts. Set up in 1952, the museum collects dresses, musical instruments, ornaments and other folkloric memorabilia. You can watch music performances and cultural shows here.

Near the Fateh Sagar Lake is the Shilpagram, a cultural village dedicated to local crafts and a living museum, depicting the life and traditions of the folk artists. Hathi Pol bazaar, Bapu bazaar and Bada bazaar are the best places to buy jewellery, textiles and crafts.

Take a day trip to Chittorgarh

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Chittorgarh is the capital of the historical Mewar kingdom and is easily accessible from Udaipur as a day trip. Yet another of Rajasthan’s UNESCO World Heritage sites, the town is synonymous with Meerabai, a princess who relinquished her royal status in an act of devotion to the Hindu god Krishna. Visit the temple named in her honour.

Chaurasi Khambon Ki Chhatri

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Built in the 17th century by Rao Raja Anirudh for his foster brother Deva as a dome-shaped memorial, this cenotaph is famous for its 84 pillars (although legend says you can’t count them all). The cenotaph has several ornate sculptures and a linga (a form of Shiva) built in the centre.

Raniji Ki Baori Stepwell

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Stepwells are an architectural feature of Rajasthan and Gujarat. With water being a scarcity, stepwells were designed not only as sources of drinking water, but also places to bathe, pray and relax. Often sculpted as temples with gates, arches and pillars, there are about 50 stepwells in Bundi, but most of them are in ruins. The Raniji Ki Baori is the best known, built in the 17th century by Queen Nathavati, wife of Rao Raja Anirudh Singh. It is 46m (150ft) deep and each level has carvings of deities.

Sukh Mahal and Jait Sagar Lake

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Built along the banks of the Jait Sagar Lake in the 18th century during the reign of Ummed Singh, the Sukh Mahal was home to Kipling and inspired him to write Kim. Meaning the palace of bliss, the Sukh Mahal is home to Mughal art and statues, a marble cenotaph and gardens.

Mandore

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The former capital of the Rathore clan lies in ruins amidst a beautiful garden filled with a fort, cenotaphs, temples, rock terraces and sculptures. Don’t miss the cenotaph of Maharaja Dhiraj Ajit Singh, which combines Jain and Buddhist architecture. This chattri also commemorates the ritual suicide of his 64 queens and concubines, who threw themselves on his funeral pyre in 1724.

Located 9km from Jodhpur, visit for the Hall of Heroes (dedicated to folkloric characters), the Temple of Gods and the many monkeys roaming around.

Bagore Ki Haveli

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Located at Gangaur Ghat on the banks of Lake Pichola, this 18th-century palace belonged to the then prime minister of Mewar, Amar Chand Badwa. The Rajput architecture has been preserved and there is a museum dedicated to Mewar culture, including jewellery boxes, royal clothing and mural paintings.

Saheliyon Ki Bari Park

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A beautiful park filled with sculptures and statues, Saheliyon Ki Bari (Garden of Maidens) was created by Maharana Sangram Singh for his queen and her 48 female attendants as a refuge from court life. It’s now a popular meeting spot. Look out for the lotus pond and elephant fountains.

Monsoon Palace

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Another beautiful royal palace, the Monsoon Palace (Sajjan Garh Palace) sits atop the Aravalli Hills overlooking Fateh Sagar Lake. Built in the 19th century as a refuge from the annual monsoon, the palace was also used as a hunting lodge. Visit the palace in the evening for sunset views, or head here during the monsoon and watch the clouds float over Udaipur.

Karni Mata Temple

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For a change of pace, visit the Karni Mata temple in Bikaner, which holds more than 20,000 black rats. Each time a rat dies, a statue is built inside the temple complex.

Delwara Temple Complex

Rajasthan’s temples date back to the 4th century, although more ornate and architecturally interesting temples began to develop from the 9th century. These typically had sculptures and marble carvings, such as the stunning Delwara complex at Mount Abu.

Rajasthan's chattris and baoris

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The history of Rajasthan is shown through its many forts, palaces and historical buildings. Almost every major city — and many minor ones — will have some form of architectural wonder to explore

Built to commemorate the region’s maharajas and nobles, chattris (cenotaphs) are a frequent feature of Rajasthan’s architecture. Chattri literally translates as umbrella, which references the dome-like structure that covers the cenotaph. Originally built as a garden complex, the yellow sandstone domes of Jaisalmer's Bada Bagh cenotaphs are an excellent example.

Rajasthan’s desert location means that conserving water has always been a major issue. Baoris are stepwells that were traditionally built to provide drinking water. Over time, they became meeting places and temples, decorated with sculptures and carvings. The 46m deep Ranji Ki Baori in Bundi is a fine example, showcasing carvings of Lord Vishnu.

Fort Palace Museum

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Towering over the main square of the fort is the seven storey Fort Palace Museum. Formerly the Raj Palace (Palace of Kings), the museum is home to the mirrored Rang Mahal, which is filled with paintings and sculptures from the 15th century. Most of the palace is open to visitors, allowing you to explore the small rooms and stooped walkways designed for spying on the outside world. Head to the top of the palace for views over the city.

Patwon Ki Haveli

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Ornate merchant mansions dot Jaisalmer and the most lavish and grand among them is the 19th century Patwon Ki Haveli. Now a museum, Patwon Ki Haveli is worth visiting for its architecture, intricate designs and history. The complex is a combination of five havelis and each is filled with stunning murals, mirror-work and paintings. The haveli belonged to merchant Guman Chand Patwa and his sons, who traded in gold, silver and brocade embroidery.

There are also two other beautiful havelis worth visiting — Nathmal Ki Haveli, which is guarded by two elephants carved in yellow sandstone, and the peacock-like grand roof of Salim Singh Ki Haveli.

Desert Cultural Centre and Museum

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This small museum tells the story of Rajasthan’s various princely states and explores the history behind traditional Rajasthani culture, including music and textiles. The centre hosts a nightly puppet show in English.

Jaigarh Fort

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Perched on the hills of Cheel Ka Teela (Hill of Eagles), Jaigarh Fort was built in 1726 by Jai Singh II to protect the Amer Fort. The two forts are connected by a series of underground passageways. Jaigarh Fort is famous for a cannon called Jaivana, which was once the world’s largest cannon on wheels. There are small temples inside the fort and several palaces, including Laxmi Vilas, Lalit Mandir, Aram Mandir and Vilas Mandir.

Jaigarh Fort also has a bizarre spot in history. While its water tank might seem ordinary — three levels, enough capacity to store six million gallons of water -— it is also allegedly the place that Man Singh stored his treasure. In 1977, then Indian prime minister Indira Gandhi ordered a search to look for the Fort’s treasure. After three months, the search was called off — but at the same time, the Delhi-Jaipur highway closed for three days, prompting rumours of the loot being whisked away in secret.

Bundi Palace (Garh Palace)

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Just below the Taragarh Fort stands Bundi Palace. The majestic Hathi Pol (Elephant Gate) greets you with its massive pillars, before heading inside to the Badal Mahal, Chhatra Mahal and Phool Mahal, each of which houses treasure troves of paintings. However, the palace’s biggest attraction is its group of turquoise and gold murals depicting historical battles and royal processions.

The neighbouring Chitrashala Palace houses paintings commissioned by Rao Ummed Singh. Look for the images of Krishna, particularly the one of him playing the flute in the trees.

Jaswant Thada

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Drive a little distance from Mehrangarh Fort to see this marvel in white — Jaswant Thada. A memorial built for King Jaswant II by his son Sardar Singh in 1899, it stands shrouded by trees and surrounded by gardens. The mausoleum is carved out of marble and was a burial site for the kings of Marwar. Look out for portraits of Rathore rulers and the odd memorial to a peacock that flew into a funeral pyre.

Umaid Bhawan Palace

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One of the largest royal residences with 347 rooms, Umaid Bhawan is still a private residence to the royal kings of Jodhpur. Built in 1946, there are three parts to it — the royal residence, a museum and a luxury hotel.

Construction began in the 1920s when the city was going through a severe drought and the palace became a source of employment to many people. Located on the outskirts of the city atop Chittar Hill, the Palace is made of marble and golden sandstone in the Indo Deco style, with ornate rooms and grand courtyards. The museum displays some of the treasures of the royal family including a private collection of classic and antique cars.

Jag Mandir Island

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Lying adjacent to the Lake Palace is the Jag Mandir, another palace which sits as an island on the lake. It was used as a resort by royalty in the 17th century to host parties and is believed to be a source of inspiration for Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan when building the Taj Mahal — he took refuge at Jag Mandir when he rebelled against his father Jehangir.

The Jag Mandir is built over three storeys and architecturally blends Mughal and Rajput influences. Its entrance is guarded by a row of huge stone elephants, before giving way to the 17th century Gul Mahal tower and mosque, which has a small exhibit on the island’s history and great views over the lake.

Visit Jaisalmer's Jain temples

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Jaisalmer has a huge legacy of Jainism. Built in the traditional Dilwara architectural style, the fort houses seven Jain temples known for their art and intricate carvings. Remember that no photos are allowed inside the temples.

For more on Jainism, visit the town of Lodhruva 15km from Jaisalmer. Here, you’ll find magnificent Jain temples dedicated to the 23rd tirthankar (Jain great teacher). Rebuilt in the 1970s after years of ruin, the temples still bear the scars of past battles.

Look out for a pair of cobras who live in the compound — seeing either is said to bring good luck.

Camel rides on Sam Sand Dunes

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A trip to Jaisalmer is not complete without a camel ride in the sand dunes. Although there are several dunes around the city, the most popular is Sam Dunes, found 40km outside the city. Head there early morning or at sunset for great photographs. Khuri Dunes is another popular destination.

Gadisar Lake

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A man-made lake created right in the heart of the city, Gadisar Lake is surrounded by chattris (elaborate ornate tombs and cenotaphs), temples and stepwells. First created by Jaisalmer founder Raja Rawal Jaisal and then rebuilt by King Garisisar, the lake is a good spot to see migratory birds stopping for a drink.

Jal Mahal

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Built by Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh in the middle of the 18th century, the Water Palace is typical of Rajasthani architecture. The palace has five storeys, of which four are under water. It was apparently a summer retreat and a picnic spot where royals gathered to go duck hunting. You cannot enter the palace but you can see it from the banks of Man Sagar Lake.

Hawa Mahal

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Built as an extension to the City Palace, the Hawa Mahal (Palace of Winds) was designed to allow female royals to watch processions without being observed. The palace resembles a collection of beehives, with more than 953 jharokas (windows) with intricate lattice work allowing the wind to cool inhabitants during the summer.

Nahargarh Fort

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One of the best forts in Jaipur for sunset views, Nahargarh is also believed to be haunted by the ghost of a Rathore prince called Nahar Singh Bhomia. In an attempt to pacify his spirit, you’ll find a small fortress built in his name inside the fort. Nahargarh was built as a royal retreat by Sawai Jai Singh, and it is the beautiful Mahavendra Palace that is its architectural highlight.

The palace’s arched entrance is decorated with floral frescos, while inside its courtyard lies nine identical suites, meant for each of his queens. Each suite is two-storied with living quarters, bedroom and kitchen. At the palace’s head lies the king’s palace, complete with decorated doors and frescos.

Taragarh Fort

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Bundi has some amazing viewing points, so head to the Taragarh Fort for a view over the city. This 14th-century fortress’ name means the Starry Citadel, and this is a perfect place to do some stargazing on a clear night. The fort houses the Garb Gunjam cannon which rather curiously means The Thunder from the Womb. Although crumbling in places, the fort is worth the steep climb for its palaces, murals and views over Bundi. Watch out for the monkeys.

Mehrangarh Fort

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One of the largest and best maintained forts in India, Mehrangarh was built in 1459 by Rao Jodha, the founder of the Marwar Kingdom and the city of Jodhpur. Standing on a rocky outcrop, the fort is 410ft above the city, encircled by walls and surrounded by gates.

There are several palaces, courtyards, temples and cannons inside the fort, which offers great views of the blue-clad city below. There are seven entrance gates, of which two — Jayapol and Fattehpol — were built by different rulers to commemorate their military victories. It’s about a 300m walk up through the hills to Mehrangarh from the Old City. If you’re feeling lazy, you can take an autorickshaw up the winding road.

On entering, you’ll see the fort’s old entrance (Loha Pol) up ahead. Inside, look out for two sets of small handprints on the wall. These are the sati marks of royal widows, who committed ritual suicide on the funeral pyres of their husbands.

The fort’s museum houses artefacts depicting royal life, with displays of weapons, costumes, art, paintings, palanquins and turbans. Don’t miss the Daulat Khana gallery, which houses a collection of Mughal period art and the Chamunda Mata temple, which is dedicated to the patron deity of the Rathore clan.

The desert rock Rao Jodha Park, located at the foot of the fort, gives an introduction to the flora and fauna of desert life.

City Palace

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The City Palace complex is one of Rajasthan’s architectural highlights. Its Chandra Mahal is still a royal residence and entry is restricted to the ground floor, which houses the Mahal’s museum and a collection of royal memorabilia. Grand courtyards, lush gardens and monuments dot this architectural masterpiece in the middle of Jaipur’s Old City. Built in the 18th century, the opulent palace includes Mukut Mahal, Maharani’s Palace, City Palace Museum and Shri Govind Dev Temple.

Standing tall along the banks of Lake Pichola are a series of palaces stitched together — all built in different eras starting from the 16th century. There are eleven individual palaces here, filling Udaipur’s skyline and forming the largest palace complex in Rajasthan.

City Palace has several entrance gates known as pols, but you’ll most likely enter through Bara pol, which takes you into a courtyard and the triple-arched Tripolia gate. The courtyard is filled with eight marble toranas (arches), where kings weighed themselves in gold and silver before distributing the riches to their subjects. Constructed in a blend of Rajasthani and Mughal styles in granite and marble, the palaces reveal a network of halls, terraces, courtyards and towers.

The main part of the complex is open as the City Palace Museum. Visit the miniatures at Kishan Vilas, which according to legend, was where Maharana Bhim Singh’s daughter Krishna Kumari drank poison to solve a dispute between suitors from Jaipur and Jodhpur over her marriage— and thus saving the city from invasion.

Head to the Sheesh Mahal (Palace of Mirrors) for art and intricate mirror-work, the Moti Mahal (Pearl Palace) for coloured glasswork, Mor Chowk (Peacock Courtyard) for mosaics and decorative peacocks and the Manak Mahal (Ruby Palace) for porcelain and crystal figurines.

Jaisalmer Fort

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The second oldest fort in Rajasthan, Jaisalmer Fort is a UNESCO World Heritage site and along with seven others (Amer Fort in Jaipur, Chittor Fort in Chittorgarh, Kumbhalgarh Fort in Kumbhalgarh, Ranthambore Fort at Sawai Madhopur, Gagron Fort in Jhalawar, Mehrangarh Fort in Jodhpur and Jaigarh Fort in Jaipur), are collectively known as the Hill Forts of Rajasthan.

The earliest settlement in the fort came up in the 17th century. The fort is built of yellow sandstone and the colour changes as the day progresses, from a light gold in the morning to a deep honey at sunset.

Standing at the top of the fort, you get a view of the entire old town. There are 99 bastions and four fortified entrances. Inside the fort, you can see the Laxminath temple dedicated to the Hindu god of wealth Lakshmi and her consort Vishnu, ancient Jain temples and the traditional Rajput architecture of the Raj Mahal Palace.

However, Jaisalmer is more than just a series of temples and palaces. This is a living fort, which nearly 4,000 people still call home. Its narrow alleyways are lined with shops, restaurants and guesthouses.

Amer Fort

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Built in the 10th century and constructed from red sandstone and marble, Amer Fort (also known as Amber Fort), with its elaborate ramparts, opulent palaces and old temples, has been home to royalty since the 16th century.

Set over four levels with six separate sections, the fort overlooks Maota Lake. Its palaces — Sheesh Mahal (Palace of Mirrors) and Sukh Niwas (Hall of Pleasure) — use fans and fountains to create a cool, calming atmosphere.

The Sheesh Mahal is filled with mirrors and pieces of coloured glass inlaid into its walls and ceilings. Built by Maharaja Man Singh in the 16th century for his queen, the palace is supposed to mimic the starry sky. According to legend, one candle was enough to light up the entire palace, causing it to glow and glisten even in the dark. Look out for the marble carved magic flower: seven unique designs including lotus, fish tail, cobra and scorpion, which are unveiled by hiding part of the panel with your hand.

The Sukh Niwas is where the king spent time with his queen and concubines. This palace is decorated with paintings of vases in blue, green and yellow, designed to give a peaceful and relaxed atmosphere. This palace is also home to a rudimentary form of air-conditioning, with a channel cut into the ground where cold water would flow, cooling the palace’s temperature.