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The 9,000 square kilometre South Luangwa National Park is one of Africa’s greatest safari destinations, although certainly not one of the most famous.

Nicknamed the Valley of Leopards, the main predators here are leopard, lion, spotted hyena and wild dog – with the leopard and wild dog populations being amongst the densest on the continent. You can expect to see large herds of elephants, sometimes up to 70 strong, as well as the endemic Thornicroft's giraffe, Cookson’s wildebeest and Crawshay's zebra.

Zambia South Luangwa A young cute Plains Zebra Equus quagga in a grassland

A young plains zebra in South Luangwa National Park

The best safaris in South Luangwa National Park

Game drives are generally offered twice a day at most safari camps and lodges in South Luangwa. A typical safari day begins around 6am and lasts about 4 hours. Guests can expect to see elephants, zebras, antelope and more. You’ll return to camp for a middle of the day siesta, and head out again in the afternoon - animals are more active at these cooler times of day. After sunset, some lodges and camps offer two-hour night game drives. This is a good time to see nocturnal animals such as honey badgers and porcupines, alongside the chance to witness a lion or leopard hunt.

But my favourite way to see the wildlife in South Luangwa is on a walking safari. South Luangwa is where, in the 1960s, the conservationist Norman Carr pioneered the concept of the walking safari, and I think they’re a terrific way to view wildlife, big and small. They continue to be one of the most popular ways to view wildlife in the park. On a walking safari, you can see lions, leopards, elephants and learn about the flora of the park. It’s not all about big beasts however; a walking safari will allow you to get up close with a termite mound and learn about Zambia’s ecosystem.

Another type of safari activity in South Luangwa is photographic hides; a few of the more high-end lodges offer camouflaged and protected areas where guests can watch the animals at a safe distance without interfering in their activities. It can be thrilling watching a lion prowl or an elephant bathe up close from a hide.

South Luangwa lion

A lion in South Luangwa National Park

The best times for safari in South Luangwa National Park

Zambia has distinct seasons which impacts when you can go on safari. The peak safari season is between July and October when Zambia is dry. This is also the best time to see wildlife.

During the rainy ("emerald") season from November to March, camps may have cheaper rates and some lodges close due to heavy rains making some parts of the park inaccessible. However, Mfuwe in the southern part of South Luangwa national park has all-weather roads and remains open throughout the year. Although it is harder to spot wildlife during this time due to increased water sources and vegetation, guests can expect to see lots of baby elephants, zebra, antelope and wild dogs. Leopard and lion sightings are also possible. It is also a great time for bird watching as rivers are full and animals head to watering holes.

May, June and November are known as the shoulder season. You may find good deals and the weather is pleasant for walking safaris. Carmine bee eaters arrive in September and leave in November.

Luangwa Valley Baboon standing guard for his troop

Baboon standing guard in Luangwa

Best safari camps & lodges in South Luangwa National Park

South Luangwa National Park has a range of luxury, mid-range and lower-cost safari lodges to suit most budgets. Most luxury lodges and camps are all-inclusive, which means game drives and meals are included.

Shenton Safaris have a great location, with a unique network of photographic hides. Shawa Luangwa is a small, eco-friendly bush camp overlooking the Luangwa River, with excellent year-round game viewing. Msandile River Lodge is a great mid-range property, across the river from the Nsefu sector and Wildlife Camp offers affordable rates for a cost-effective safari.

Mfuwe Lodge is popular but is located in the busiest part of the park and right on the main road. But if you do stay here you'll probably see elephants which regularly pass through the reception between late October and mid-December on their way to the wild indigenous mango trees that grow around the property.

For budget-conscious travellers, Marula Lodge offers dorm-style rooms, ensuite double and twin rooms as well as tents. All-inclusive packages are also available. Thornicroft Lodge and Croc Valley Camp are also great budget-friendly options.

How to get to South Luangwa National Park

Most safari-goers in Zambia will fly into Lusaka, Zambia’s capital. To get to South Luangwa from Lusaka, there are several options. Zambian airline. Lodge and camps provide pickups from Mfuwe airport to their accommodations. Guests should contact their accommodations in advance to schedule pickups.

Renting a vehicle from Lusaka and driving to South Luangwa is also possible. The trip takes about nine hours or more depending on which camp in the park is being visited. A 4x4 vehicle is recommended, especially in the rainy season. Buses to Mfuwe can also be taken from Lusaka’s intercity bus stop.

Need to know

While some parts of South Luangwa are busier than others, especially in the Mfuwe area, even the busiest parts of the park are still far less crowded than many other African national parks.

The Nsefu sector and further north are some of the most untouched areas, though staying here tends to come with a higher price tag, and these camps are seasonal.

The more affordable accommodations are outside the park’s Mfuwe entrance gate.

I personally prefer to keep away from the Mfuwe entrance area. This area is accessible to self-drivers and irresponsible lower budget operators, and I’ve had some frustrating experiences with inexperienced drivers, overcrowding at sightings and wilful disregard for the wildlife.

About the authors

Safari In South Luangwa National Park

Mazuba Kapambwe

Mazuba is a freelance writer from Zambia whose travel writing has appeared on CNN Travel, Unearth Women, Culture Trip and several in-flight magazines. Her travel podcast Mwende Bwino (Go Well) was recently featured on Conde Nast Traveler’s website and listed as one of the top five Zambian podcasts. Mazuba co-wrote the Lusaka Arts and Culture guide produced by the National Arts Council of Zambia.

Safari In South Luangwa National Park

Sarah Kingdom

Born and raised in Sydney, Australia, before moving to Africa at the age of 21, Sarah Kingdom is a mountain climber and guide, traveller, yoga teacher, trail runner, and mother of two. When she is not climbing or traveling she lives on a cattle ranch in central Zambia. She guides climbing and trekking trips worldwide, including taking climbers up Mount Kilimanjaro numerous times a year.

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