Dominating the majestic Hoang Lien Son mountain range to the west of Sa Pa is Fansipan mountain (Phan Xi Păng in Vietnamese script). At 3,147 metres, Fansipan is the highest mountain in Indochina, and its commanding position overlooking green valleys and terraced rice paddies draws hikers by the bus load, making this a popular – sometimes too popular – trek from Sa Pa town.

There are three routes to the summit, each with their own pros and cons:

Tram Ton, at 11km over two days/one night, is the fastest and most direct route to the summit. Ideal for beginners, this popular trail offers a gradual ascent, with campsites for rest and spectacular panoramic views. It’s about seven hours up to the top, and six hours down the next day.

Sin Chai is just 9km but is done over two or three days as the terrain is technical, with dense vegetation and steep sections. This is the wildest and most challenging route – for experienced trekkers only.

Cat Cat is the longest route, 20 kilometres done over three to four days. This one is another challenge, although less technical. This is my favourite route, for the complete immersion in the scenery and exceptional panoramic views.

The fourth option, which involves no real hiking at all, is to take the cable car to the summit. Personally, I find the summit itself – with its crowds of day-trippers, modern temple, shops and services – to be the least interesting part of the experience. Especially when cloud cover is obscuring the view! If your only interest is ticking off the summit without putting in the work of getting there, I’d gently steer you elsewhere.

Finally, a word of caution: trekking here is all conducted under the auspices of the Hoang Lien Son National Park authorities – even if you’ve booked through a trekking operator, they won’t have any control over the guides or porters selected for your group. There are reports of guides and workers contributing to the mountain’s growing litter problem and base camps/camping sites being poorly maintained. This isn’t to warn you off – just make sure you come with open eyes and do your bit to maintain the sanctity of the environment.