Hiking in Kenya's Aberdares

Just north of Nairobi but a million miles from the sunbaked savannahs are the Aberdare hills, one of those places that seems to fly under the mass tourism radar.

While roaming the peaceful moorlands I like to imagine the crowds of safari-goers racing around under the blazing sun in the big name parks to the south. If only they knew! Thankfully, blissfully few people do know about this hidden gem in Kenya’s central highlands.

The Aberdares are actually two ecosystems in one national park. You’ve got the open, rugged moors of the highlands and below that, dense tangled montane jungle. The higher reaches evoke the moody hills of Scotland, lower down it’s more like the mist-filled forests of Rwanda. Neither are classically Kenya, which makes it a very pleasant break once you’ve had your fill of the game drives.

The range runs for around 160km, with its northern tip only 40km from Nairobi. The local Kikuyu call it Nyandarua, which means “the drying hide,” a reference to its shape, which resembles a skin stretched out to dry.

Wildlife is present here but elusive: I’ve seen elephants along the trail and once saw a leopard cross ahead of us, though more commonly you’ll spot buffalo, bushbuck or waterbuck moving quietly through the trees.

Compared to Mount Kenya, a full-blown mountain expedition, the Aberdares offer something more low-key. No ropes, no scrambling, just big skies, quiet trails, and a real sense of stillness.

I like to spend at least three days walking these hills. Here’s my suggested itinerary.

Key information

Destinations	Aberdare National Park
Activity	Adventure, Hiking & Trekking, Active, Walking, Nature & Wildlife, Responsible Travel, Slow Travel
Physical Level	Mild
Season	June - October