Trek the Gegham Mountains

The hike starts in the small village of Sevaberd, on good roads approximately 40km east from Yerevan.

From Sevaberd, hike due east for some 13 kilometres towards Lake Akna (3,032m), a steady elevation gain of around 1,000m. The trail is easy going and you'll see the mountains unfold before you – possibly getting a view of Mt Azhdahak in the distance.

Akna is a stunning crater lake with waters so tranquil they reflect the blue skies like a mirror. You'll camp here for the first night, and if you dare take a dip in the icy waters of the lake.

It's the big day. Wake up with a glorious sunrise and steel yourself for the ascent up Mt Azhdahak (3,597m), the highest mountain in the Geghams. It's roughly 15 km hike, but only a further 750m elevation gain. Along the way you'll pass prehistoric petroglyphs and the vishapakar ('dragon stones') that surround the Azhdahak crater. These carved stones represent ancient Armenian myth and legend and are closely associated with the waters of volcanic crater lakes.

Finally reaching the peak you're rewarded with excellent views as far as Mt Aragats to the west and Mt Ararat (of Noah's Ark fame) just across the Turkish border to the south. Make your camp near the summit.

From Azhdahak, descend and head towards Garni Gorge, which is another 11 km due south-west.

I'd recommend you go via Vishapalich Lake ('Dragon's Lake' – another reference to Armenia's ancient legends), a blue beauty surrounded by more dragon stones engraved with storks. From here hike west towards Geghard village, past yet more petroglyphs, and call in at both the UNESCO listed Christian Geghard Monastery and the pagan Garni Temple.

Finally reaching Garni celebrate the conclusion of your trek before connecting back to Yerevan, a roughly five hour drive.

It seems a shame to waste your nicely-limbered hiking legs, so in this suggested itinerary we add an ascent of Mt Aragats, Armenia's highest peak. Aragats is technically four peaks, and casual hikers are strongly advised to focus on the southern peak (3,893m), leaving the more challenging northern peak for the experienced mountaineers.

The climb starts from Lake Kari. Despite your practice in the Geghams, this climb is no easy feat and you may be scrambling up rocky scree dusted with ice and snow. But reaching the top makes it all worthwhile and you'll immediately understand why this mountain plays such a central role in Armenian culture and history.

Yerevan to Lake Kari is an 85km drive. There's no public transport, if you're travelling solo you'll take a taxi from Yerevan or rent a car. If you're quick and well organised you can be back in Yerevan in time for dinner.

My suggested itinerary is over, so pack up and prepare to head to the airport. But if you have more time, there's plenty more to see in Armenia! The southern Syunik region is another blissfully-quiet area, or you can visit the more famous Dilijan National Park, Tatev Monastery, Lake Sevan... The opportunities in Armenia are endless!