Heather is an award-winning journalist and editor based in Cape Town, South Africa. She writes for the BBC, Sunday Times, National Geographic, Lonely Planet, Departures Magazine, among others.
Best for African wild dogs & canoe safaris

Tanzania’s largest national park, Nyerere (formerly Selous Game Reserve) extends across almost 12,000 square miles – making it bigger than Belgium. Its most notable geographic feature is the Rufiji River, which flows throughout the year and is a major wildlife magnet in the dry season. Despite this, the drier climate means that animal densities away from the river are far lower than they are in the Serengeti, and the thick bush can make wildlife spotting more challenging.
Nyerere supports large numbers of lion, elephant, giraffe, hippo and buffalo. It is also a key area for the endangered African wild dog, which is more frequently seen here than anywhere else in Tanzania. In recent years, commercial poaching has led to a massive decline in the park’s elephant population, but this still stands at more than 15,000 individuals.
Nyerere feels more remote than most of the northern parks, but because its camps are concentrated in one small area north of the Rufiji (which is also visited by plenty of day safaris from Zanzibar), it can feel busier than might be expected. What really sets the park apart is the range of activities on offer. Boat safaris on the Rufiji and an associated network of lakes are a real highlight. Other special activities include walking safaris and fly-camping.
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Nyerere National Park
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Best for African wild dogs & canoe safaris
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