• Distance: 237 km
• Duration: 10-12 days
• Start: Foix (France)
• End: Berga (Spain)
• Difficulty: Moderate

During the 12th-14th centuries a religious group that rejected wealth and led a simple life gained a significant number of followers in Southern France. The Cathars, who referred to themselves as ‘good Christians’ (or ‘good men’), were not just tolerated but even supported by some nobles in the Languedoc area and by 1209, the Catholic church felt so threatened by the movement that the pope declared a crusade against the heretics. Thousands upon thousands were killed but many managed to flee France and cross the Pyrenees to seek refuge in Spain.

The GR107 or Cami dels Bons Homes trail follows the route believed to have been taken by the Cathars fleeing France. As you can expect from a well maintained GR (Grande Randonnée or Gran Recorrido) route, it is well signposted with trusty red and white stripes.

It can be completed in less than a fortnight and, while it is less demanding than the other long-distance walks that traverse the entire length of the Pyrenees, there is no shortage of stunning mountain scenery. I spent the nights in auberges where I was well fed with delicious food and all of my hosts claimed to live in the most beautiful part of the trail.

The route

You can walk the trail in either direction but I prefer to start the trek from Foix and walk across the Pyrenees just like the Cathars did.

The first few days slowly ease you into walking, but I recommend that you save some energy to climb up to the ruins of Roquefixade castle at the end of the first and the ruins of Montségur castle at the end of the second day of the trek.

If I had to pick a favourite section it would be the breathtakingly stunning middle section of the trail. If you want to enjoy the best mountain scenery but you can only spend two or three days on this trail, I suggest starting from Mérens-les-Vals and walking to Bellver de Cerdanya. This is the highest part of the entire trail which also happens to be the most demanding and stunning section.

You can download a route card from camidelsbonshomes.com to collect stamps at the guesthouses and receive a certificate of completion of the trek.

Need to know

You can reach Foix from Toulouse by train (approximately one hour) and at the end of your trek in Berga you can take a bus to Barcelona (approximately two hours). Toulouse and Barcelona are both well connected with other European cities.

The best time to walk the trail is between May and October, but July and Aug are the busiest months in the mountains.

During the first few days the trail passes through some hamlets, but don’t expect bakeries and snack bars; on the French side of the trail you will hardly ever encounter a place where you can buy food. That doesn’t mean you have to go hungry, you can buy packed lunches from the auberges and gites where you stay.

You don’t have to carry your camping gear, as it is possible to spend every night in a gite or family run guesthouse, where you will be treated with delicious local food. Fortunately you won’t have to worry about the high calorie intake in the evenings as you will certainly burn them off the next day.

Once you’re in Catalonia you will be passing through towns with wider accommodation choices but if you’re walking in July or August it is best to book ahead. Take a sleeping bag and towel as it might not be provided at some gîtes and refuges. The weather can be variable in the Pyrenees and it is essential to have a waterproof jacket and warm fleece even in the summer months.

Official website: www.camidelsbonshomes