Spain
A modern nation with an old heart
Plan a trip to Spain with a travel brochure, an Instagram feed or worse – an AI tool, and you'll be spoon-fed an unimaginative menu of beach resorts, paella, and some clichéd gibberish about siestas and flamenco.
Sure, if you're looking for a fly & flop holiday to the Costa Brava or the Balearics, we won't stand in your way. But the Spain of our imagination looks a little different. We dream about hiking in silent valleys in the pre-Pyrenees, just two hours from Barcelona but a world apart from the La Rambla throngs. Or washing down freshly grilled sardines with a glass of beer in the neighbourhood markets of Seville. Or watching the sun set over the Alhambra, once the day-tripping crowds have begun to thin out. Or the first dip in a round of baked goats cheese topped with honey and walnuts...
You get the idea.
This is the Spain that we know and love, and we invite you to come along for the ride.
Hidden gems in Spain
Spanish Pyrenees
Pic de la Dona and Bastiments
As soon as the snow melts away (usually in the late spring) hikers replace the skiers in Vallter 2000 ski resorts. To enjoy some of the best views I recommend the trail that climbs first to Pic de la Dona (2,702m) and then traverses the ridge on the Spanish-French border before climbing Puig de Bastiments (2,881m). The trail then drops down to Coll de la Marrana from where you can even opt to climb the nearby Gra de Fajol (2,714m). But make sure that you save some energy to seek out the source of the River Ter before you descend back to the resort’s buildings.
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Spanish Pyrenees
Camí de Carboneres
This popular trail from Setcases passes some wonderful waterfalls as you climb along the Carboner river. Don’t miss Copa de Cava (the name makes perfect sense when you see the waterfall) before the waymarked route veers away from the river and climbs higher. To enjoy further great views of the nearby mountains I like to extend the route by continuing to the small unmanned hut, Refugi Jaume Ferrer and then descending first through forest then grassy slopes with mountain views. After your hike allow some time to explore the narrow streets of Setcases, where you can try and buy some local products.
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Spanish Pyrenees
Serra Cavallera ridge day hike
I like to follow this route from Camprodon in the spring after the snow melts away but when the higher mountains in the Pyrenees are still snow capped. Not only that you can take good photos of the mountains from the ridge but you can traverse the meadows without having to worry about disturbing the cattle that usually spend the summer months grazing on the slopes. After a steep climb from Camprodon the route follows the ridge of Serra Cavallera mountain range and climbs Pedra dels Tres Bisbats (1,898m). The waymarks on the return leg are somehow inconsistent, so some navigation skills are essential.
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Spanish Pyrenees
Pic de Finestrelles day hike
From Vall de Núria most people climb Puigmal (2,910m) the highest mountain in the area but I like to take the path that winds its way up to the Pic de Finestrelles (2,827m) and then traverses the ridge that runs along the French-Spanish border. You will meet fewer people on this route and the peak of Finestrelles is only slightly lower than the nearby Puigmal and the views of the endless mountains are just stunning. Summertime is also the best time to take this route if you want to spot some playful marmots near the streams during the descent.
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Spanish Pyrenees
Camí Vall de Núria day hike
The train journey between Queralbs and Vall de Núria is one you won’t forget but the most rewarding way to approach Vall de Núria is to follow this old path in the footsteps of pilgrims. However don’t expect solitude, this is a well trodden path and it can get busy especially on sunny summer days. If you leave from Queralbs before 8am it is then more likely that you won’t have to share the views for a while as many hikers opt for a train ride to Vall de Núria and then they descend the path back to the village in the afternoon. If you are planning to take the train back to Queralbs you have to pre book your tickets: www.valldenuria.cat
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Spanish Pyrenees
Vall del Ter/Camprodon Valley
The cooler mountain temperatures have always drawn people from the big cities, and the streets of Setcases and Camprodon are lined with some attractive summer houses. It can get especially busy during school holidays and weekends when people return to their holiday homes. There are several options to walk from Setcases, and my personal favourite is the extended version of the Camí de Carboneres that is perhaps best in the spring when the nearby Gra de Fajol is still snow capped. In the summer this hiking paradise offers almost endless possibilities to create a walk. Seek out the Source of the River Ter near the ski slopes in Vallter 2000 or climb Bastiments (2,881m) to enjoy the views of the sea of mountains. After a hike, I like to wander the narrow streets of Setcases and treat myself to a local herb liquor, ratafia. Need to know There are hotels and restaurants in Camprodon and Setcases and there are also a good number of campsites in the area. There is a bus from Barcelona to Camprodon but you can reach more trails if you have your own transport. It is best to be prepared for very varied weather when visiting this area. Waterproof jacket and warm fleece are essential even in the summer.
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Spanish Pyrenees
Vall de Núria
Despite the lack of roads this small mountain resort gets a great number of visitors throughout the year. The majority of the visitors arrive during the summer months by the rack railway, but I prefer to follow the old path, Camí Vell de Núria from Queralbs. And if you want to leave the day trippers behind, take any of the routes that wind their way up to the peaks of the rugged mountains that line the French Spanish border and your efforts will be rewarded with some of the best views of the mountain range. There is a hotel and camping ground if you want to stay and spend a few days exploring some of the amazing trails in the mountains. Need to know If you want take the rack railway from Queralbs or from Ribes de Freser check the time table and book tickets on www.valldenuria.cat You can reach Ribes de Freser from Barcelona by train. The lively Ribes de Freser offers everything a hiker might need and can be a good base if you want to explore the area. There are some accommodation options in the quiet Queralbs and a hotel and camping ground cater for those who want to spend a couple days exploring the trails or ski slopes in Vall de Núria. Always take warm clothes and a waterproof jacket even in the summer.
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Spanish Pyrenees
La Travessa dels 3 refugis
This hut to hut hike can easily fit into a long weekend, and as the name suggests the route connects three mountain huts. However there are more huts en-route, and it is possible to spend up to five nights in the mountains if you want to take a slower pace. This is a great introduction to hut to hut hiking and hut life in the Pyrenees without committing to a long trek. The route takes you through some popular hiking areas, but be prepared to cross streams on rocks and traverse rugged mountain terrain. You can walk this trail in either direction and while this isn’t widely offered as an organised walking holiday, it is easy to book your own accommodation in the huts. Like most trails in the area, this is best walked between June and early October. Opt for June if you can, to avoid the crowds that usually arrive during the summer holidays. The summer months are also perfect if you want to spot playful marmots or see some Pyrenean chamois. The route If you walk the trail anticlockwise you will follow the well trodden path from Queralbs to Coma de Vaca, passing the impressive Salt de Grill waterfall. This is a popular section and I prefer to leave from Queralbs in the early morning. The section I enjoyed most was between Coma de Vaca and Vall de Núria. This section follows a rocky path exposed in places where sure footedness is required and there is also a short section with iron chains to hold on to. You can follow the red and white GR11 signs between Coma de Vaca and Ulldeter huts, between Coma de Vaca and Vall de Núria and then also from Vall de Núria back to Queralbs. The other sections are marked with different markers, sometimes only with cairns therefore it is recommended to plan the route and carry a map.Need to know From Barcelona you can take a train to Ribes de Freser and then continue with the rack railway or a bus to Queralbs. Carry a sleeping bag and towel as these are not provided in the refuges/huts. It might be a good idea to take some cash to purchase snacks and food at the huts, as it is not always possible to pay by card. The huts’ capacity is limited, pre-book your nights by contacting them directly. Nights can get chilly, make sure you have warm clothes as well as a waterproof jacket. June is the best time for wild flowers and, if you go in September, you will meet fewer people. As the route is not signed with consistent waymarkers it is best to take a map: www.editorialalpina.com/en/alpina-map/travessa-3-refugis-2/
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Europe
Cami dels Bons Homes (GR107)
During the 12th-14th centuries a religious group that rejected wealth and led a simple life gained a significant number of followers in Southern France. The Cathars, who referred to themselves as ‘good Christians’ (or ‘good men’), were not just tolerated but even supported by some nobles in the Languedoc area and by 1209, the Catholic church felt so threatened by the movement that the pope declared a crusade against the heretics. Thousands upon thousands were killed but many managed to flee France and cross the Pyrenees to seek refuge in Spain. The GR107 or Cami dels Bons Homes trail follows the route believed to have been taken by the Cathars fleeing France. As you can expect from a well maintained GR (Grande Randonnée or Gran Recorrido) route, it is well signposted with trusty red and white stripes. It can be completed in less than a fortnight and, while it is less demanding than the other long-distance walks that traverse the entire length of the Pyrenees, there is no shortage of stunning mountain scenery. I spent the nights in auberges where I was well fed with delicious food and all of my hosts claimed to live in the most beautiful part of the trail. The route You can walk the trail in either direction but I prefer to start the trek from Foix and walk across the Pyrenees just like the Cathars did. The first few days slowly ease you into walking, but I recommend that you save some energy to climb up to the ruins of Roquefixade castle at the end of the first and the ruins of Montségur castle at the end of the second day of the trek. If I had to pick a favourite section it would be the breathtakingly stunning middle section of the trail. If you want to enjoy the best mountain scenery but you can only spend two or three days on this trail, I suggest starting from Mérens-les-Vals and walking to Bellver de Cerdanya. This is the highest part of the entire trail which also happens to be the most demanding and stunning section. You can download a route card from camidelsbonshomes.com to collect stamps at the guesthouses and receive a certificate of completion of the trek. Need to know You can reach Foix from Toulouse by train (approximately one hour) and at the end of your trek in Berga you can take a bus to Barcelona (approximately two hours). Toulouse and Barcelona are both well connected with other European cities. The best time to walk the trail is between May and October, but July and Aug are the busiest months in the mountains. During the first few days the trail passes through some hamlets, but don’t expect bakeries and snack bars; on the French side of the trail you will hardly ever encounter a place where you can buy food. That doesn’t mean you have to go hungry, you can buy packed lunches from the auberges and gites where you stay. You don’t have to carry your camping gear, as it is possible to spend every night in a gite or family run guesthouse, where you will be treated with delicious local food. Fortunately you won’t have to worry about the high calorie intake in the evenings as you will certainly burn them off the next day. Once you’re in Catalonia you will be passing through towns with wider accommodation choices but if you’re walking in July or August it is best to book ahead. Take a sleeping bag and towel as it might not be provided at some gîtes and refuges. The weather can be variable in the Pyrenees and it is essential to have a waterproof jacket and warm fleece even in the summer months. Official website: www.camidelsbonshomes
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Catalonia
Pedraforca hike
Separated from the other mountains in the Cadí Moixeró range, the double peak of Pedraforca is believed to be the most photographed mountain in Catalonia. From Gresolet Viewpoint, the popular but demanding hike with some easy scrambling takes you to one of the twin peaks. Because of the challenging terrain, I suggest you leave early and only attempt the hike in good weather conditions.
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Catalonia
Salt de Brull
The route from Sadernes is especially popular in the summer months, when locals seek escape from the heat in the cool waters of the rockpools. Between April and November you have to pre-book your parking at the designated car park in Sadernes. The last stretch to the waterfall is on rough terrain, therefore, most hikers only walk to the 11th-century chapel of Sant Aniol d’Aguja. Returning from Sant Aniol d’Aguja, I like to take the route that climbs above the gorge to enjoy the bird eye-views.
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Catalonia
Sant Jeroni
It might be the most popular trail in the Montserrat range, but nevertheless I recommend this route if you only have time for one walk in the area. Starting from the monastery, the well-trodden path climbs among rock pinnacles to the highest peak in the Montserrat. The terrain is not too demanding, but there are some steep sections. However, your efforts will be rewarded with a jaw-dropping 360-degree panorama.
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Pic de la Dona and Bastiments
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Camí de Carboneres
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Serra Cavallera ridge day hike
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Pic de Finestrelles day hike
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Camí Vall de Núria day hike
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Vall del Ter/Camprodon Valley
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Vall de Núria
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La Travessa dels 3 refugis
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Cami dels Bons Homes (GR107)
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Pedraforca hike
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Salt de Brull
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Sant Jeroni
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Castellasa circular
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Turó de l’Home from Santa Fe
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Sender del Miradors (GR 5)
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Oliba Trail (GR 151)
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Cavalls del Vent
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Camí de Picasso
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Els 3 Monts
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Pyrenean Haute Route
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