Southern Africa

Getting beyond the safari camps

By Mazuba Kapambwe , Stuart Butler & Heather Richardson

Things to do
Guides
Itineraries
Travel Companies
Places

Southern Africa is not so much a geographic or political entity, more a convenient term—often used by outsiders, including travel guides like ourselves—to group a collection of states marked by an astonishing diversity.

Botswana, Eswatini (Swaziland), Lesotho, Malawi, Mozambique, Namibia, South Africa, Zambia, and Zimbabwe, occupy the southern tip of Africa; their location being one of the few things they have in common (some include Angola; the island of Madagascar is usually excluded because of its distinctiveness).

One thing they do share is a troubled past: a visitor to any of these countries will find plenty of food for thought as to the long-term effects of colonialism, many of which are still playing out, including, arguably, in the travel industry.

On the positive side there are the most fantastic sights on offer, and experiences to be had. The natural beauty is, of course, breathtaking; a safari in one of the world-famous national parks is an adventure not to be missed. But there's so much more to Southern Africa than its safari parks. There are nearly 70 million people living here, speaking something like 1,500 different languages, with individual cultures and distinct identities. You'll come for the safari, but you'll fall in love with the people.

It will be stunning, it may be unsettling. But a trip to Southern Africa comes with one guarantee: the memories you take home will stay with you forever.

Hidden gems in Southern Africa

Lake Kariba

Giliad Walton

Place

Lake Kariba is the world's largest artificial lake and reservoir and is, for me, one of the most magical places on earth. The lake was formed following the damming of the Zambezi River in the 60s and now marks the border between Zimbabwe and Zambia. The southern Zimbabwean side of the lake forms the edge of the magnificent Matusadona National Park. The shore is dotted with lodges, most of which are very remote given the lake’s vast size. Kariba is teeming with hippos, crocodiles, elephants and more. The fishing is excellent, and sport fishing for tiger fish is a big deal, with an annual tournament in October. Some of the lodges are a bit closer to all-inclusive holiday resorts than real safari camps, and it’s a bit of a circus around Kariba Town, but you can easily escape all that and find some real gems on the more remote shores or the islands that dot the lake. For a real authentic experience stay on a traditional houseboat, which can often accommodate surprisingly large groups.

Lake Kariba

Changa Safari Camp

Giliad Walton

Accommodation

Changa sits on the shores of Lake Kariba and is reached by boat from Kariba Marina. The setting is quiet and remote, with the camp tucked into a private stretch of shoreline. Accommodation is at the luxury end of the scale, with spacious tents that feel closer to high-end safari suites than standard lodges. Everything is private and well run. Activities cover game drives, walking safaris and boat outings. All three are strong, though I rate the walking particularly highly for the close wildlife encounters. Fishing is available too if you want to spend more time on the water. One of the highlights is the small pool that looks straight down to the lake. There is almost always something to watch from here. The camp is expensive, but I think the location and overall experience justify it. It is properly remote. On one visit my wife was delayed getting to breakfast because an elephant had wandered between our tent and the dining area. I always found it useful to speak with the owner about the best way to view wildlife on any given day. Depending on recent sightings and weather he’ll tell you whether a boat, a jeep or a walk would give the best results.

Lake Kariba

Spurwing Island

Giliad Walton

Accommodation

One of the reasons I always recommend a visit to Spurwing Island is the journey there, a one-hour boat journey across Lake Kariba, is an adventure in itself. Once you leave the harbour of Kariba Marina you enter the quiet, open waters of the lake and head towards this small island that sits deep in wildlife country. Once you get here you realise you’re in the thick of the bush. The surrounding lake and shoreline teems with life, with wildlife sightings in every direction. The accommodations are simple, with around forty rooms in a comfortable lodge layout. Standards are solid, with lake views and a pool for downtime. The atmosphere is relaxed rather than high-end, which I think suits the setting perfectly. Daily activities centre on boat excursions. You can use these for wildlife viewing along the lakeshore or for fishing, which is a major draw on Kariba. Evenings are easy: a drink at the bar, dinner in the main restaurant, most likely a friendly chat with your fellow guests. My favourite memory is the fishing: we caught enough bream one afternoon to feed the whole lodge with small breaded pieces before dinner. It gives a good sense of what Spurwing offers: straightforward comfort, good access to the lake, and a quiet base for water-based wildlife experiences.

Kruger National Park

The best budget options around Kruger

Anton Vosloo

Experience

At under $350 per night, Timbavati is a perfect budget option, however, space is often limited in the busier months for the more affordable lodges. A good alternative would be the Klaserie Private Reserve, which is right next to the Timbavati, and is still part of the Greater Kruger reserves, but will likely have more availability throughout the year for a similar budget.

Kruger National Park

Kambaku River Sands

Chrizaan Troch

Accommodation

Kambaku is such a special spot for a safari! I love it because the rooms are just incredible – they feature a lot of glass, so you feel directly connected to the wilderness. It’s perfect for finding some peace. The food is also world-class, with amazing wine tastings. It’s good value too – high season rates here are around USD 745 per person per night.

Cape Town

12 Apostles Hotel

Megan Warrington

Accommodation

My guests love staying at Cape Town’s 12 Apostles, mostly because it has this incredible location situated between the Atlantic Ocean and Table Mountain. Location aside, it’s often voted one of the best luxury hotels in the city. You’re in for a real treat here.

Sabi Sands Game Reserve

Dulini River Lodge

Vihann Van Wyk

Accommodation

There are many great lodges in the Sabi Sands reserve, but I can’t think of many with as impressive a location as Dulini, situated in prime position on the Sand River. Its location alone makes it my top choice for Sabi Sands. Rates start at around ZAR 28,990 (USD 1,630) per person per night, which is actually pretty reasonable for Sabi Sands and great value.

Sabi Sands Game Reserve

MalaMala Rattray’s Camp

Devryn Panaino

Accommodation

My pick for Mala Mala Game Reserve is usually Rattray’s Camp where the game viewing is unrivalled, especially for the awesome populations of all the Big Five. But what I like best is the feeling of exclusivity. You’ll only have four guests per safari vehicle and only eight suites in total, so you’re pretty much on your own with the wildlife. You’ll pay around ZAR 37,200 (USD 2,050) per person per night. For your money you’ll get all the expected amenities of a high-end camp: private plunge pools, his & hers bathrooms, and so on, but for me the solitude is the real cincher.

Cape Town

The Marly

Cayleigh Brown

Accommodation

The Marly is a five-star boutique hotel in Camps Bay – it’s one of my favourite places in Cape Town because of its beachfront location and great amenities. You’ll get a warm welcome here and the on-site spa and surrounding gourmet restaurants and bars make it my top pick for Cape Town. Expect to pay around ZAR 8,150 (USD 460) per night.

Sabi Sands Game Reserve

Leopard Hills

Adelle Bell

Accommodation

Game viewing at Leopard Hills feels truly exclusive – the reserve borders Kruger National Park but has no fences, allowing animals to roam freely. I’ve often seen leopards here, sometimes right near the suites or even from my private deck. Rates are punchy: ZAR 24,900 (USD 1,400) per person per night. But for that you get personal, five-star service, world-class rangers and food that is out of this world – my clients rave about the unique dining experiences like traditional doma dinners, or a private meal under the stars.

Sabi Sands Game Reserve

Sabi Sabi Earth Lodge

Susan Veldman

Accommodation

My top pick in Sabi Sands is Sabi Sabi Earth Lodge. I have been visiting and sending clients to this lodge for over 25 years, and the feedback on the accommodation and food has always been superb. The rangers and trackers are generational, so in essence they are following in their fathers and grandfathers’ footsteps. You’re almost guaranteed the Big Five, but the rangers and trackers offer so much more, as their knowledge goes so deep. At ZAR 39,000 (USD 2,190) per person per night, it doesn’t come cheap – but if it fits your budget, it’s money well spent.

Nxai Pan National Park

Nxai Pan

Rory Sheldon

Accommodation

Best for: Africa's second biggest land migration I’d recommend Nxai Pan if you’re looking for somewhere that feels peaceful, remote, and completely removed from the usual safari crowds. You’re on the edge of a fossil pan, looking out over open grasslands and there’s nothing built-up or busy about it. What really sets it apart, though, is the chance to catch the zebra migration. If you’re here between March and late April, you could witness thousands of zebras arriving to drop their young. It's the second-largest land migration in Southern Africa, and it’s a game changer if you hit it right. The camp is the only permanent lodge in the park, with nine spacious tents, all facing the waterhole. Each one has a viewing deck, a relaxed lounge area, and both indoor and outdoor showers. One of the rooms is set up for families, with an extra twin bedroom. There’s also a plunge pool, and the thatched communal areas help keep things cool and comfortable throughout the year. The activities are a real highlight. I’d especially recommend the San bushman walk, a fascinating insight into how the San people have traditionally hunted, gathered, and lived in this landscape. You can also take a day trip to Baines’ Baobabs, which are just as impressive today as they were when painted 150 years ago.