Southern Africa

Getting beyond the safari camps

By Mazuba Kapambwe , Stuart Butler & Heather Richardson

Things to do
Guides
Itineraries
Travel Companies
Places

Southern Africa is not so much a geographic or political entity, more a convenient term—often used by outsiders, including travel guides like ourselves—to group a collection of states marked by an astonishing diversity.

Botswana, Eswatini (Swaziland), Lesotho, Malawi, Mozambique, Namibia, South Africa, Zambia, and Zimbabwe, occupy the southern tip of Africa; their location being one of the few things they have in common (some include Angola; the island of Madagascar is usually excluded because of its distinctiveness).

One thing they do share is a troubled past: a visitor to any of these countries will find plenty of food for thought as to the long-term effects of colonialism, many of which are still playing out, including, arguably, in the travel industry.

On the positive side there are the most fantastic sights on offer, and experiences to be had. The natural beauty is, of course, breathtaking; a safari in one of the world-famous national parks is an adventure not to be missed. But there's so much more to Southern Africa than its safari parks. There are nearly 70 million people living here, speaking something like 1,500 different languages, with individual cultures and distinct identities. You'll come for the safari, but you'll fall in love with the people.

It will be stunning, it may be unsettling. But a trip to Southern Africa comes with one guarantee: the memories you take home will stay with you forever.

Hidden gems in Southern Africa

Nxai Pan National Park

Nxai Pan

Rory Sheldon

Accommodation

Best for: Africa's second biggest land migration I’d recommend Nxai Pan if you’re looking for somewhere that feels peaceful, remote, and completely removed from the usual safari crowds. You’re on the edge of a fossil pan, looking out over open grasslands and there’s nothing built-up or busy about it. What really sets it apart, though, is the chance to catch the zebra migration. If you’re here between March and late April, you could witness thousands of zebras arriving to drop their young. It's the second-largest land migration in Southern Africa, and it’s a game changer if you hit it right. The camp is the only permanent lodge in the park, with nine spacious tents, all facing the waterhole. Each one has a viewing deck, a relaxed lounge area, and both indoor and outdoor showers. One of the rooms is set up for families, with an extra twin bedroom. There’s also a plunge pool, and the thatched communal areas help keep things cool and comfortable throughout the year. The activities are a real highlight. I’d especially recommend the San bushman walk, a fascinating insight into how the San people have traditionally hunted, gathered, and lived in this landscape. You can also take a day trip to Baines’ Baobabs, which are just as impressive today as they were when painted 150 years ago.

Makgadikgadi Pans National Park

Jack’s Camp

Rory Sheldon

Accommodation

Best for: Quirky camp and excellent activities I’d recommend Jack’s Camp to anyone looking for something completely different. It's not cheap but it's one of the most eccentric camps in Botswana – part vintage safari, part theatrical spectacle, and it’s a real experience just to stay here. The tents are lavish, with a 1940s safari style that somehow blends old-world elegance with a splash of Freddie Mercury flair. Even the bathroom feels like a set piece – the toilet’s practically a throne. There are ten en-suite tents in total (seven twin, three double), each with indoor and outdoor showers and a huge amount of space. The camp also includes a private museum, drinks tent, pool pavilion, and shop, all laid out in an oasis of comfort in the middle of the Kalahari. But it's the activities that make this place special. You can ride horses across the pans, walk with Bushmen guides, spend time with habituated meerkats, and sleep out under the stars, something I’d call genuinely life-changing. There are also game drives, birding, and visits to Chapman’s Baobab, one of the largest and oldest trees in Africa.

Chobe National Park

Chobe Safari Lodge

Rory Sheldon

Accommodation

Best for: mid-range value Chobe Safari Lodge is one of the longer-established properties in the area, and thanks to a recent refurb, it continues to deliver a great experience. It’s well priced, comfortable, and in a brilliant spot right on the riverbank. The views from the deck are fantastic, and the evening boat cruises are always a highlight. It’s also home to the Sedudu Bar and Restaurant, which I rate as one of the best sundowner spots in Kasane. The lodge sits just outside the park in Kasane and borders the Chobe River, where four countries – Botswana, Namibia, Zambia, and Zimbabwe – all meet. It’s a great base for combining Chobe with places like Victoria Falls or the Caprivi Strip. With easy access from three airports and a range of transfer options, it’s also one of the more convenient lodges logistically. It works really well for families too: relaxed atmosphere, lots of space, and plenty of things to do without feeling overstructured. It's also conveniently located to add on Vic Falls.

Chobe National Park

Chobe Game Lodge

Rory Sheldon

Accommodation

Best for: family safaris If you’re heading to Chobe and want comfort without compromise, I’d recommend Chobe Game Lodge. It’s the only lodge actually inside the national park, which means you’re waking up right where the action is: no long drives to reach the gate. I’ve always found their service a step above anywhere else in the area, and they really go the extra mile. It’s also one of the few high-end lodges I’d happily recommend for families with kids. With space for up to 90 guests, the lodge is large, but the layout makes it feel far more spacious and relaxed. There are several pools, six viewing decks, two bars, and no fewer than four different dining areas, so you’re never short on places to unwind. If you’re after a bit more privacy, there are four superior suites with river views. And the wildlife is excellent, especially if you’re into elephants. You’ll often see them right from the lodge.

Okavango Delta

Rra Dinare

Rory Sheldon

Accommodation

Best for: Mid-range value for money If you’re watching your budget but don’t want to compromise on wildlife, this is the camp I’d go for: Rra Dinare offers serious value for money. It’s not top-end luxury, but in my opinion, it delivers an experience that comes surprisingly close – at a much more accessible price. Every time I’ve visited, the wildlife has been phenomenal. I’ve seen wild dogs on every trip, witnessed a lion kill, and once even had a leopard climb down from a tree and fall asleep on the canvas roof of our game vehicle. That kind of moment stays with you. The camp’s name means “Father Buffalo,” and that’s no accident – when they were building it, buffalo would wander right into camp and even sleep under the bridges and decks. It’s a stylish place, with eight ensuite tents, each well furnished and raised on wooden platforms. The shared spaces are open and relaxed, with a thatched dining area, a swimming pool, a small curio shop, and raised walkways connecting everything. The concession itself is pristine, and the guiding team knows it inside out – game drives here are a highlight.

Okavango Delta

Beagle Expeditions

Rory Sheldon

Accommodation

Best for: walking safaris If you’re up for something a bit more adventurous, but still want a high level of comfort, I’d really recommend Beagle Expeditions. It’s a mobile setup, but you wouldn’t guess it from the camp itself. The tents are surprisingly lavish for something that moves with the season, and there’s a real attention to detail in how everything’s put together. What sets Beagle apart is the walking. This isn’t just a short stroll after breakfast – they offer proper multi-day walking safaris between their two private camps, led by some of the best guides I’ve come across. You’ll cover real ground on foot, and for me, that completely changed how I experienced the Delta. It’s one thing to drive past a leopard – it’s something else entirely to see one while walking. The camps themselves feel like semi-permanent outposts in the wilderness: comfortable, beautifully run, and set in truly remote areas you’d never get to on a vehicle-based safari.

Okavango Delta

Jao Camp

Rory Sheldon

Accommodation

Best for: Ultra luxury I’d recommend Jao for anyone who’s willing to spend a bit more for something extra special. The main area is a two-storey wooden structure that looks out over the surrounding floodplains, but it’s what’s inside that really stands out. A spiral staircase wraps around a giraffe skeleton and leads up to a space that’s part museum, part wine cellar – it’s like walking into a mad safari lab, and in my opinion, it’s insanely cool. The rooms are over-the-top lavish – larger than most apartments – and each one is decorated in its own style, with an old-world safari feel and ornate colonial touches. Outdoor showers, big views, and serious attention to detail all come as standard. You can explore the area by mokoro, boat, or game drive, and the mix of water and dry activities makes it a flexible option depending on the season.

Okavango Delta

Vumbura Plains

Rory Sheldon

Accommodation

Best for: High-end style If you’re looking for a high-end option and don’t mind the price, I’d recommend Vumbura Plains. The rooms here are some of the most impressive I’ve seen anywhere – not just in the Delta. They’re beautifully designed, with an open-plan layout that includes a central shower and wide, 270-degree views over the floodplains. Each suite also has a private deck with a generously sized pool, and the whole setup feels surprisingly homely for something so luxurious. The lodge is split into two separate satellite camps, each with its own dining and lounge areas. You’ve got year-round water and land activities on offer, and the food is consistently excellent.

Central Kalahari Game Reserve

Tau Pan Camp

Rory Sheldon

Accommodation

The Kalahari is one of my favourite places to visit in Botswana, but it can be hard to find the right camp to fit the budget and experience. There are not very many camps out here, and visitors often confuse areas of the Kalahari with neighboring Makgadikgadi Pans as well as lodges along the Boteti area. Kalahari camps are austere, but they’re surrounded by wildlife and are a great place to see lions and leopards. Of the few camps out here, my top recommendation is Tau Pan, owned by Kwando Safaris, a great Botswana-based company. Tau Pan is located within the Central Kalahari Game Reserve. Situated on its own waterhole it has the best location anywhere in the Kalahari with abundant wildlife sightings – especially lions. But my favourite thing about Tau Pan is the amazing bushman walks offered by the camp, walking with a San bushman and learning about his lifestyle and culture while he shows you how to track wildlife. You can also do night walks and stargazing. It’s a magical place. A close runner up to Tau Pan is Dinaka, owned by Ker&Downey. It sits just north of the reserve with some interesting biodiversity and brown hyena often sighted. These are both upper range camps, both reached by air. If the budget doesn’t stretch that far, you’ll find more affordable camps in Ghanzi and around Deception Valley. These are a lot more budget orientated, but the game viewing is nowhere near as good. I find the best time to visit is between April to August. One can self drive to Ghanzi, but you need to get on a charter flight leaving from Maun to get to Tau Pan and Dinaka.

Okavango Delta

See African wild dogs in the Okavango Delta

Rory Sheldon

Experience

The African wild dog, also known as painted dogs, are an endangered species with a wild population that has plummeted to just 6,500. They are found in sporadic and isolated patches across southern and east Africa, but by far their biggest concentration is in my backyard, the Okavango Delta, and watching a pack call and 'rally' before embarking on a hunt is one of the most enthralling safari experiences you can find anywhere in Africa. Just like its domesticated relatives, the wild dog are extremely social and highly verbal: communicating with each other in clicks and whistles that sound more like birdsong than a dog growling or barking. This helps them achieve impressive feats of coordination as they take down impala, or sometimes even wildebeest. Trust me – you have to see a wildebeest up close to understand how daunting an undertaking this is! You can see wild dogs throughout the Okavango Delta, but my recommended spot is around the Linyanti area in the north. Some camps are located close to resident packs of wild dogs and you can hear them crying, jostling and playing in the morning and evenings. The wild dog's main threat is habitat encroachment by agriculture, and farmers who engage hunters to protect their livestock. Thus, well-managed tourism and conservation is an excellent bulwark to help conserve their habitats and this is an experience I'd recommend to anyone.

South Luangwa National Park

Chikunto Safari Lodge

Robert Zgozi

Accommodation

There’s some good accommodation in South Luangwa but one of my favourites is Chikunto Safari Lodge, located on a horseshoe bend in the Luangwa River near the Mfuwe entrance in the park’s southern edge. What makes this place really stand out is the six-metre high platform with panoramic views over the river and a private tented suite where you can camp out overnight under the stars. When I visited I found it totally breathtaking. It doesn’t come cheap, but I always recommend it for honeymooners or couples looking for something extra special.

Liuwa Plain National Park

Wildebeest migration without the crowds

Sarah Kingdom

Liuwa Plain is home to the second largest wildebeest migration in Africa and, compared to the more famous wildebeest migration in East Africa, this spot is hardly known. Each year in November, with the start of the rainy season, massive herds of blue wildebeest, 45,000 strong, migrate to Liuwa Plains, often mingling with zebras along the way.