Southeast Asia Travel Guide

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Is there anywhere on earth more misunderstood and exoticized than Southeast Asia? Decades of backpacker lore and lazy travel writing have cemented all the obvious clichés in the public mind: the beaches, the fiery 'street' food in steamy cities, Buddhist traditions and mountaintop temples. But is this image fair? Or even real?

For every staged photo of a deserted tropical beach there are countless others struggling with the burdens of overtourism. In Southeast Asia 'street' food is just called food. Yes, mainstream culture here is grounded in its Buddhist roots, but not to the exclusion of countless ethnic minorities, lively—sometimes violent—political movements, or rocking music and vibrant creative arts scenes. Most of this is whitewashed (or just outright ignored) by mainstream tourism marketing, much to the detriment of both the people who live here and those who come to visit. Instead, Southeast Asia has become a destination that tourists "do" rather than multi-dimensional places with real people living real lives.

Nearly 10% of the world's population lives in this corner of Asia and there's so much more to see and learn than the clichés would have you believe. Slow down, break out of the luxury resorts, pull up a plastic stool and see what contemporary Southeast Asia is all about. You won't regret it!

Hidden gems in Southeast Asia

Borneo

Indigenous cultures & conservation on the Kahayan River

Gaye Thavisin

The Kahayan River, immediately east of Sebangu National Park, is a real hidden gem which doesn't feature highly on most 'mainstream' orangutan-spotting itineraries. The main reason I recommend the Kahayan River to almost anyone who visits Indonesian Borneo is because it's here that you can combine wildlife spotting with real and meaningful cultural interactions with the indigenous Dayak people which is, I believe, key to ensuring the long-term survival of both the orangutans and the people who live here. You access the Kahayan River from the town of Palangkaraya, which is close to the forested island of Pulau Kaja. This is a pre-release habitat for rescued orangutans managed by the Borneo Orangutan Survival Foundation, and it's possible to spot orangutans from the river. Downstream from Palangkaraya are Dayak villages of Bukit Rawi, Sigi Tumbang Nusa and Pilang, where you can learn about indigenous religion, cultures and traditional livelihoods. At night the captain will simply find a sheltered location on the bank to moor the boat – it's a true expedition! If you're solely interested in tracking orangutans, the Kahayan River area might not be for you (although it can be easily combined with a visit to nearby Sebangu National Park). However, if you're remotely interested in traditional culture and the interaction of cultural preservation and wildlife conservation, I can't recommend this area highly enough.

Tanjung Puting National Park

Tanjung Puting National Park & Camp Leakey

Tamara Thiessen

“One of the natural wonders of the world”, according to the UK’s Orangutan Foundation, Taman Nasional (National Park) Tanjung Puting is home to the world's largest population of wild orangutans and represents their best hope for survival. It was at Tanjung Puting in 1971 that leading orangutan authority Dr Biruté Galdikas established the Camp Leakey research station — an instrumental step in bringing the plight of the park’s most famous resident to worldwide attention. Set amid the largest swathe of coastal tropical heath and peat swamp forest, which used to cover much of southern Borneo, Tanjung Puting started out as a game reserve in 1935 before becoming a National Park in 1982. The best way to experience the wonders of Tanjung Puting is on a traditional klotok (houseboat) puttering gently along Sungai Sekonyer as you search for pot-bellied macaques, hornbills and the odd crocodile. Starting from the Kumai river port in the central Kalimantan city of Pangkalan Bun, your guides will typically stop at three main feeding stations within the park, where you will get to experience semi-wild orangutans during feeding sessions. The best option for this is at Tanjung Harapan, but you’ll also stop at Pondok Tangui. Your final destination will be Camp Leakey, a 4-4 ½ hour journey upriver. From the docking point, be prepared for a 45-minute walk to the first feeding platform at Camp Leakey, on a flat and well-maintained path. Here, as well as orangutans, you will see Bornean bearded pigs, gibbons and mangrove-loving proboscis. Camp Leakey is your best chance to see orangutans — most were released around here and stay close to the site. In general, orangutans around Camp Leakey are the most relaxed around humans. Look out for Tom, the camp’s alpha male (but if you do see him, be careful not to engage in a staring match). Once feeding time is over, you can explore the camp’s excellent information centre. Tanjung Puting offers plenty of other activities including birding, hiking and wildlife tours — as well as cultural trips to remote villages.

Sebangau National Park

Sebangau National Park and Katingan River

Gaye Thavisin

Sebangau National Park is rarely visited by tourists and has been at serious risk from illegal logging and land conversion, which is why I'm so keen to encourage visitors to come here. The Katingan River flows through Sebangau and its forest-lined banks offer a wonderful experience for intrepid travellers. You can canoe through the canals and trek into the park from the river, going via tiny indigenous villages to track orangutans, wild proboscis monkeys and gibbons. You might see sun bears, or even an elusive clouded leopard, as well as spotting many bird species – I have seen one of the most endangered birds - Storm’s stork - as well many magnificent hornbills, kingfishers and raptors. Trekking through the swampy forests in Sebangau can be a challenge as trails are either non-existent or very hard to follow. It's not for the faint-hearted, but Sebangau is a true hidden gem in Kalimantan and one I can highly recommend.

Thailand

Bangkok, History & Beaches

David Luekens

Itinerary

This is a variation on the classic Bangkok & beach itinerary, especially tweaked for younger travellers. Thailand has worked to shed its reputation as a hard-partying backpacker destination and reinvent itself for a wider range of visitors. This is one of Asia's most accessible places for family travellers, and the following itinerary gives you an easy-going introduction to the country that's suitable for all ages. This route begins in Bangkok navigating meandering waterways via traditional longtail boats, before venturing to the River Kwai region, where you will you'll visit striking waterfalls near Kanchanaburi. Immerse yourself in the heart of Khao Sok National Park before finishing with a visit to two of the best beaches on Thailand's eastern coast.

An Giang

Nui Cam trail

Experience

Elephants have a troubled and controversial place in the Thai tourism industry. The basic rule of thumb is to avoid elephant riding or any close-contact, captive elephant experiences. Even so-called "sanctuaries" can be a problem. But one that is universally recognised as above board is the Elephant Nature Park just outside of Chiang Mai. A must-visit for visitors with kids.

Indigenous cultures & conservation on the Kahayan River

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Tanjung Puting National Park & Camp Leakey

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Sebangau National Park and Katingan River

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Bangkok, History & Beaches

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See rescued elephants (ethically)

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Enter the belly of an elephant near Bangkok

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View all 27 Southeast Asia experiences