South Asia
Home of the coming Asian Century
The vast peninsula separated from the Eurasian landmass by the Himalayas, is the size of Europe and home to some 1.89 billion people in six countries: India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh, Nepal and Bhutan (some add the Maldives).
Over centuries, the Mughal emperors, the Rajputs, the Muslim sultanates, the Sikh empire, the British colonialists, all left their imprints on the land and the people. The result is that modern South Asia can be a bewildering patchwork to the outsider. The variety of religions and cultures in the region is staggering. More than 450 languages are spoken in India; the mountain kingdom of Bhutan, with a population of less than a million, has some two dozen languages of its own.
If it can be bewildering, it’s also exciting. The history, the geography, the arts, the cuisine and, it must be said, the rivalries, make the region endlessly fascinating.
And it’s not all about the past. The burgeoning economies of the region fuel talk of the coming Asian Century. Bangladesh now has one of the world’s fastest-growing economies. India’s pharma and telecoms industries are world-class and it has a highly developed space programme.
Yes, there is still much poverty, and some political uncertainties, but there’s also huge optimism for the future. It’s the future that makes South Asia so exciting today.
Hidden gems in South Asia
Bhutan
Haa Valley trek
ExperienceAlthough not far from Paro and Thimpu, the Haa Valley is one of the least-visited areas of western Bhutan. Indeed, its proximity to the Tibet border meant this region was only unrestricted to trekking as recently as 2001. This is another heavy-going trek which crosses several high passes but rewards you with incredible views over Tibet, Sikkim, and as far as Jomolhari to the north. You won’t see many other trekkers, but you might see occasional yak herders or even smugglers heading across the Tibet border.
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Gangkar Puensum trek
ExperienceThis is one of the most demanding treks in Bhutan and one I only recommend for the hardiest hikers. The route leads to ‘base camp’ of Gangkar Puensum – which at 7,570 metres is the world’s highest unclimbed mountain. The mountain is considered sacred and holds deep significance in our culture, and I see this as more of a pilgrimage than a trek. This is a remote and untouched region, but you’ll pass by occasional yak herders’ huts and tiny traditional villages. It’s a magical trek, but the distance, altitude and the often non-existent trail make it suitable only for experienced trekkers who are properly acclimatised.
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Chorten Trail trek
ExperienceThe Chorten Trail trek is actually a continuation of the more popular Druk Path trek from Paro to Thimphu. On the Chorten Trail, instead of stopping at Thimphu you continue onwards for another five days and head into the Punakha Valley following old trade routes through the mountains. Despite the longer distance and a max elevation of 4,210m at Simkota La, the ascent is gradual and it’s a fairly moderate difficulty hike suitable for most with decent fitness.
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Trans Bhutan Trail (Sherizampa to Drametse section)
ExperienceThe Trans Bhutan Trail (TBT) is a newly-restored trekking route that stretches for 403 km across the country from west to east. The trail follows a 16th century pilgrimage and trading route where travellers would be accommodated in isolated villages barely connected to each other let alone the outside world, establishing a tradition of Bhutanese hospitality that endures to this day. The trail can be completed as a challenging thru-hike, which takes around 36 days, staying at a mixture of campsites and guesthouses. The whole trail is spectacular, but it can be broken up into sections and my favourite stretch is the 12 km hike between Sherizampa to Drametse in Bhutan's eastern Mongar District. Most commercial treks focus on the west of Bhutan around the Tiger's Nest Monastery (Paro Taktsang), Jomolhari and the infamous Snowman trek. Very few people venture east and this part of the country is far less developed for tourists. The village of Drametse has a 16th century temple and is the cultural centre of eastern Bhutan. You'll see herder camps and nomadic communities that are rarely visited by outsiders – if you're lucky you'll be invited in for a steaming cup of tea. You'll pass kids going to school, and farmers or traders making their way from village to village. It's on this section of the trail that you realise how important the original route was to lives and livelihoods in this still highly traditional country.
Read moreKhumbu (Everest) Region
Pikey Peak Trek
ExperienceThis newly opened route in the Everest (Khumbu) region leads to Pikey Peak, which was regarded by Sir Edmund Hilary to offer the very best view of Mt Everest. Despite this claim to fame, Pikey Peak is hardly-known on the mainstream trekking circuit, drawing a fraction of the visitors who trek out to Everest Base Camp (from which you can't even see the famous mountain!) It's also an easy and relatively short trek for the Everest region, so I often recommend this one to guests who are keen on seeing Everest, but either don't have the time or the confidence to do one of the more challenging Everest treks.
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Hike the Pekoe Trail
ExperienceSri Lanka’s central hills are the gateway to the island’s picturesque tea country. The undulating forest- and tea-dominated terrain is a great way for families to bond while exploring by foot. Tour operators can organise guided day hikes in tea country. For something a little different take a look at the Pekoe Trail. This 186-mile trail winds its way through tea country from Kandy to Nuwara Eilya and was designed to foster slow travel within this historic and beautiful part of the island. The trail’s 22 stages are described clearly in an app and provide plenty of useful pointers so you can explore independently. Each stage takes between three to five hours and navigates pine forests, high altitude grasslands, lakes and swirling tea fields (including Loolecondera, Sri Lanka’s first tea estate, established by James Taylor in 1867). Stages can be hiked separately or combined by staying at local guesthouses. Stage 16 passes through Ella – where you can also go zip-lining – and, along with 15 and 17, are some of the easiest on the trail. Other family-friendly stretches include stage one (Kandy) and stage seven (Hatton).
Read moreArugam Bay
Surfing at Arugam Bay
ExperienceOn the remote south-eastern coast of the island, Arugam Bay is the last word when it comes to surfing in Sri Lanka. Counted among the top surfing destinations in the world, “A-Bay” boasts large swells that wash up to its shore from Antarctica and a number of right-hand breaks that are suitable for beginners as well as more advanced surfers. About 30 km from Kumana National Park is the country’s top bird sanctuary, Arugam Bay. The natural beauty here is stunning. Tucked away in a distant part of the island, A-Bay is a seven or eight-hour drive by car or an overnight ride by luxury bus from Colombo. Not yet as developed as the southern coast, A-Bay has just a handful of hotels. The best time to visit is between May and November. Hiriketiya, a horseshoe-shaped bay just 10 minutes from the town of Dickwella along the south coast, is a great testing ground for novice surfers. Regarded as one of the country’s most picturesque beaches, Hiriketiya is shrouded from view by a coconut grove. It has a year-round surf break that makes it ideal for those learning to ride the waves. The beach has a few shacks selling fresh juices and renting beach beds. Visit between December and April.
Read morePigeon Island National Park
Diving at Pigeon Island
ExperienceFor snorkelling and diving, there are few better locations than Pigeon Island National Park, just off the coast of Trincomalee, a popular beach town on the east coast of the island. One of two national marine parks in the country, Pigeon Island is surrounded by shallow waters and an abundance of marine life, including corals, shoals of colourful fish, and even the odd sea turtle. The beach itself is narrow in parts and can get crowded at weekends and holidays with visitors who make the 1 km boat trip from Trinco (as it is fondly known). A number of private scuba operators along the Nilaveli beach in Trinco organise round trips to Pigeon Island throughout the day. The Nilaveli Private Boat Service, run by an association of local boat owners, also organises round trips at a fixed rate of LKR (Sri Lanka rupee) 2,000 ($13). You can also rent snorkelling gear for a small fee. Entry tickets to the park cost $10 per person and $8 for a group, and are available at the Pigeon Island ticket office on Nilaveli beach. Pigeon Island can get very crowded in the peak season, between May and September, so make sure you book a boat in advance.
Read moreTangalle
Hidden gems of the south
ExperienceDespite its greater popularity, there are still plenty of unspoilt beaches on the southern coast. Most people don’t bother making the trek to Tangalle, which means that the beaches in and around this coastal town are among the most pristine you will find down south. Beaches between the towns of Galle and Tangalle are generally long, wide and sandy. Some of my personal favourites would be Kabalana, Mawella and the sublime horseshoe cove of Hiriketiya. A 10-minute tuk-tuk ride from Tangalle, Goyambokka beach boasts clean sands bordered by the country’s signature coconut palms, clean waters and an unhurried vibe. Large hotels are still few and far between in these parts, but a number of restaurants along the beach offer fresh seafood, beer and thambili or king coconut water. Closer than Tangalle but almost as untouched, Talalla is another beach worth visiting. A long, crescent-shaped beach partially hidden from view by a thicket of shrubby trees, Talalla is clean – if underdeveloped – and ideal for an offbeat holiday. A few shacks on the beach offer refreshments and you can also rent beach beds for a small fee. The currents here can be quite rough, so it is best to check conditions beforehand. Talalla is just over three hours from Colombo by car via the Southern Expressway, while Tangalle takes half an hour longer. The ideal time to visit both these beaches is between December and April.
Read moreJaffna
Casuarina beach
ExperienceOnly just opening up to outsiders after decades of civil war, the beaches surrounding Jaffna, at the northernmost tip of the country, are superb, isolated – and, at least for now, refreshingly non-commercial. Named after a grove of casuarina trees that border the shore, Casuarina is the best known of these beaches. With placid waters and a sandy stretch devoid of people, especially on weekdays, Casuarina makes for a perfect day trip from Jaffna. There are changing facilities, toilets and a few kiosks on the beach, but it would be advisable to bring your own picnic basket. There are hardly any hotels or guest houses in the area, so Jaffna might be your best bet for accommodation. Casuarina is about 20 km from Jaffna on the island of Karaitivu, which is connected to the mainland by a causeway. You can get there with a rental car or local bus from Jaffna; alternatively, a quality tour operator will be able to help with transport. Jaffna is easily reached from Colombo by road or train (it’s an approximately six-hour trip). The best time to visit is between May and September.
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Nainativu island
ExperienceOf the many islands scattered off the coast of Jaffna, Nainativu – or Nagadeepa as it is also known – holds a special religious significance for Hindus and Buddhists. Believed to have once been home to a legendary tribe called the Nagas, Nainativu is best known for the Nagapooshani Amman Kovil, an ancient temple dedicated to Parvati, the consort of Shiva, the Hindu god of destruction. Nainativu’s importance is heightened by the fact that it is mentioned in both ancient Tamil and Buddhist literature. Apart from the temple, the island’s other religious attraction is the Nagadeepa Purana Vihara, which is counted among the holiest Buddhist shrines in the country. Legend has it that the Buddha visited the Nagadeepa Vihara on Bakmaha Poya, or the full moon day in April. Getting to Nainativu is an adventure in itself, and one that requires a degree of fortitude. The journey involves taking a bus or car from Jaffna to Kurikadduwan (KKD) jetty, some 36 km away, and then taking a ferry to the island. The ferries run at regular intervals but are notorious for being overcrowded, so keep that in mind when planning your trip. June and July are the most colourful months of the year to visit Nainativu – the temple hosts a 16-day thiruvizha festival during this period. Check the festival dates beforehand, and expect large crowds.
Read moreSri Lanka
Lesser-known train journeys
ExperienceTravelling by train in Sri Lanka is a fun activity for the whole family. It is one of the cheapest ways to travel yet offers a rich insight into the Sri Lankan way of life. The most enchanting journey is along the Main Line, which weaves through the island’s dramatic mountainous region. Thanks to its incredible views it is also the most popular – sometimes uncomfortably so – route, particularly the long 5.5 hour journey between Kandy and Ella. My advice: either do it in reverse (quieter) or take fidgety youngsters on a shorter route, such as between Galle and Weligama on the ocean-glimpsing Coastal Line. Less touristy than the Main Line route is the service between Colombo and Jaffna. Once a lifeline connecting the two cities, the route was suspended for nearly 25 years during the country’s civil war. When the Yal Devi or Queen of Jaffna – an iconic train that plied the route for more than 40 years – resumed its run in 2014 after extensive track repairs, it became one of the most telling signifiers of the end of the war. This journey is the most memorable way to see the distinct shifts in the landscape as you travel to the country’s northernmost reaches. It offers you glimpses of nondescript villages, lush paddy fields and the arid northern countryside, inaccessible until recently. It is a journey that is likely to give you pause – and a break from the brochure-ready beauty of most of Sri Lanka. With its non-air conditioned coaches and vendors supplying a steady stream of snacks, the Yal Devi makes for a leisurely 10-hour ride. But if you’d prefer air-conditioned comfort, the speedy Inter-City Express is a better bet. The train service to Jaffna is a popular one, so it is advisable to buy tickets in advance from a railway station in Colombo (or in Jaffna, for the return trip). Tickets cannot be bought online, but a reputed travel agent should be able to arrange them for you. Don’t be tempted to travel first class, which isn’t as indulgent as it sounds. Second- and third-class carriages have better views (first-class trains are air-conditioned so you can’t open the windows) and offer a better chance of interacting with local people.
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Haa Valley trek
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Gangkar Puensum trek
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Chorten Trail trek
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Trans Bhutan Trail (Sherizampa to Drametse section)
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Pikey Peak Trek
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Hike the Pekoe Trail
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Surfing at Arugam Bay
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Diving at Pigeon Island
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Hidden gems of the south
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Casuarina beach
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Nainativu island
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Lesser-known train journeys
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Hiking in Horton Plans
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Kitesurfing in Kalpitiya
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Whale spotting away from the crowds
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Escape Bentota and explore the mangrove forests of Madu Ganga
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Wild elephant spotting in Udawalawe National Park
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Wreck diving in Pasikudah Bay
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Off the beaten path in tea country
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See another side to Kandy
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Polonnaruwa
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See a little-known side to Sigiriya
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Anuradhapura
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Explore Galle Fort on foot
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Visit Mihintale, cradle of Buddhism in Sri Lanka
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Explore the Ritigala ruins
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Witness Hindu festivities at Nallur Kandaswamy Kovil
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Birdwatching in the Knuckles Mountains
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Jaffna & the north
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Diving & snorkelling on the eastern coast
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See the swimming elephants of Gal Oya
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Explore secret beaches on the southern coast
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See the Cultural Triangle's underrated hidden gems
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Panchase Trek
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Annapurna luxury lodge trek
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Annapurna North Base Camp
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Mardi Himal trek
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Khopra Ridge trek
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Nar-Phu trek
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Bumdra monastery hike
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Druk Path trek
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Snowman (Lunana) trek
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Laya trek
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Jomolhari Basecamp trek
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Tilicho Lake trek
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Helambu trek
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Poon Hill trek
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Three Passes trek
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Road-free Annapurna Circuit
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Manaslu Circuit trek
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