South Asia

Home of the coming Asian Century

By Mariellen Ward , Lakshmi Sharath , Rachel Bracken-Singh , Vidya Balachander & Stuart Butler

Things to do
Guides
Itineraries
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Places

The vast peninsula separated from the Eurasian landmass by the Himalayas, is the size of Europe and home to some 1.89 billion people in six countries: India, Pakistan, Sri Lanka, Bangladesh, Nepal and Bhutan (some add the Maldives).

Over centuries, the Mughal emperors, the Rajputs, the Muslim sultanates, the Sikh empire, the British colonialists, all left their imprints on the land and the people. The result is that modern South Asia can be a bewildering patchwork to the outsider. The variety of religions and cultures in the region is staggering. More than 450 languages are spoken in India; the mountain kingdom of Bhutan, with a population of less than a million, has some two dozen languages of its own.

If it can be bewildering, it’s also exciting. The history, the geography, the arts, the cuisine and, it must be said, the rivalries, make the region endlessly fascinating.

And it’s not all about the past. The burgeoning economies of the region fuel talk of the coming Asian Century. Bangladesh now has one of the world’s fastest-growing economies. India’s pharma and telecoms industries are world-class and it has a highly developed space programme.

Yes, there is still much poverty, and some political uncertainties, but there’s also huge optimism for the future. It’s the future that makes South Asia so exciting today.

Hidden gems in South Asia

Jaipur

Jal Mahal

Lakshmi Sharath

Place

Built by Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh in the middle of the 18th century, the Water Palace is typical of Rajasthani architecture. The palace has five storeys, of which four are under water. It was apparently a summer retreat and a picnic spot where royals gathered to go duck hunting. You cannot enter the palace but you can see it from the banks of Man Sagar Lake.

Jaipur

Hawa Mahal

Lakshmi Sharath

Place

Built as an extension to the City Palace, the Hawa Mahal (Palace of Winds) was designed to allow female royals to watch processions without being observed. The palace resembles a collection of beehives, with more than 953 jharokas (windows) with intricate lattice work allowing the wind to cool inhabitants during the summer.

Jaipur

Nahargarh Fort

Lakshmi Sharath

Place

One of the best forts in Jaipur for sunset views, Nahargarh is also believed to be haunted by the ghost of a Rathore prince called Nahar Singh Bhomia. In an attempt to pacify his spirit, you’ll find a small fortress built in his name inside the fort. Nahargarh was built as a royal retreat by Sawai Jai Singh, and it is the beautiful Mahavendra Palace that is its architectural highlight. The palace’s arched entrance is decorated with floral frescos, while inside its courtyard lies nine identical suites, meant for each of his queens. Each suite is two-storied with living quarters, bedroom and kitchen. At the palace’s head lies the king’s palace, complete with decorated doors and frescos.

Rajasthan

Lakshmi Sharath

Place

Rajasthan is India’s royal state. Dubbed the ‘Land of Kings’, its rich history can be traced back to the Indus Valley Civilisations of 2000 BCE, with excavations in Bundi showing prehistoric settlements. However, it is the Rajputs for whom Rajasthan is best known. Beginning in the 9th century, this dynasty gave Rajasthan both its initial name of Rajputana and its most profitable period. The Rajputs were a cluster of different communities and clans who came together to share a common ideology and culture, synonymous with being a warrior clan. The two Rajput kingdoms that stood out were the Sisodias of Mewar whose capital was Chittorgarh (and later Udaipur), and the Rathores of Marwar with Jodhpur as their capital. Many more existed in the region, often fighting against each other. In Indian history, Rajputs are synonymous with tales of chivalry, romance and flamboyance, as told through folk tales. But the various Rajput clans who set up small kingdoms slowly emerged as a combined force. They were in almost constant conflict with the Mughals, with things coming to a head in the 16th century with Mughal Emperor Akbar. He had married a Rajput princess and formed alliances with some rulers, but the Sisodias and Rathores refused to countenance an allegiance. A 1526 battle saw Akbar take Chittorgarh, with the town’s women famously self-immolating to preserve their honour. In the 18th century, The British East India Company convinced many of the Rajput states to join them, forming an independent state with the new name of Rajasthan. Most of the rulers became vassals of the British Raj. There were around 19 states which eventually merged into Rajasthan. Rajasthan and the Golden Triangle is a firm fixture in India's tourism industry and the region has excellent travel infrastructure and services for all travel types and budgets. Here's our essential guide on planning a trip to Rajasthan; highlights, what to see, and how to get around.Architecture of Rajasthan The history of Rajasthan is shown through its many forts, palaces and historical buildings. Almost every major city — and many minor ones — will have some form of architectural wonder to explore. Temples Rajasthan’s temples date back to the 4th century, although more ornate and architecturally interesting temples began to develop from the 9th century. These typically had sculptures and marble carvings, such as the stunning Delwara complex at Mount Abu. Other notable temples include the Brahma Temple in Pushkar, which is one of the few in India dedicated to Brahma. This Hindu god was said to be cursed with having no places of worship on earth. Take a holy dip in Pushkar Lake before offering your prayers in the temple. For a change of pace, visit the Karni Mata temple in Bikaner, which holds more than 20,000 black rats. Each time a rat dies, a statue is built inside the temple complex. Havelis Havelis (mansions) were the homes of rich merchants and traders in Rajasthan’s cities. Decorated with stone carvings and interiors of murals and frescoes, each merchant tried to outdo the next to show their importance and wealth. Every major city in Rajasthan will have havelis worth visiting, but Jaisalmer is a particular hotspot. Look out for the Patwon Ki haveli and the elephants of Nathmal Ki haveli. Chattris and baoris Built to commemorate the region’s maharajas and nobles, chattris (cenotaphs) are a frequent feature of Rajasthan’s architecture. Chattri literally translates as umbrella, which references the dome-like structure that covers the cenotaph. Rajasthan’s desert location means that conserving water has always been a major issue. Baoris are stepwells that were traditionally built to provide drinking water. Over time, they became meeting places and temples, decorated with sculptures and carvings. The 46m deep Ranji Ki Baori in Bundi is a fine example, showcasing carvings of Lord Vishnu. Hill forts and palaces These sprawling complexes often housed whole cities within them, including palaces, temples and trading centres. Built on hillsides, these forts used natural defences to protect themselves, such as forests, deserts and of course, hills. The views from the forts are spectacular. Although initially conceived for protection from invading armies, these forts quickly became more extravagant as royal families settled in. Some of the best examples of Rajput architecture can be found in its palaces. Two of the most striking are the Hawa Mahal in Jaipur and the City Palace in Udaipur. Look out for the sheesh mahal (hall of mirrors). Visiting these forts is a chance to experience and imagine Rajasthan in its Rajput period, when kingdoms nudged up against each other and courtly culture helped develop the region’s arts, textiles and music. There are eight main hill forts in Rajasthan, clustered around the Aravalli mountains. Designated as UNESCO World Heritage sites, these forts were built by Rajput kings and date from the 5th century.

Bundi

Taragarh Fort

Lakshmi Sharath

Place

Bundi has some amazing viewing points, so head to the Taragarh Fort for a view over the city. This 14th-century fortress’ name means the Starry Citadel, and this is a perfect place to do some stargazing on a clear night. The fort houses the Garb Gunjam cannon which rather curiously means The Thunder from the Womb. Although crumbling in places, the fort is worth the steep climb for its palaces, murals and views over Bundi. Watch out for the monkeys.

Jodhpur

Mehrangarh Fort

Lakshmi Sharath

Place

Known as the Blue City, Rajasthan’s second largest city is dominated by the formidable 15th century Mehrangarh Fort. Palaces, citadels and cenotaphs set in lush gardens surround Jodhpur, but it is the iconic shade of blue that gives it its identity. One of the largest and best maintained forts in India, Mehrangarh was built in 1459 by Rao Jodha, the founder of the Marwar Kingdom and the city of Jodhpur. Standing on a rocky outcrop, the fort is 410ft above the city, encircled by walls and surrounded by gates. There are several palaces, courtyards, temples and cannons inside the fort, which offers great views of the blue-clad city below. There are seven entrance gates, of which two — Jayapol and Fattehpol — were built by different rulers to commemorate their military victories. It’s about a 300m walk up through the hills to Mehrangarh from the Old City. If you’re feeling lazy, you can take an autorickshaw up the winding road.

Udaipur

City Palace

Lakshmi Sharath

Place

The City Palace complex is one of Rajasthan’s architectural highlights. Its Chandra Mahal is still a royal residence and entry is restricted to the ground floor, which houses the Mahal’s museum and a collection of royal memorabilia. Grand courtyards, lush gardens and monuments dot this architectural masterpiece in the middle of Jaipur’s Old City. Built in the 18th century, the opulent palace includes Mukut Mahal, Maharani’s Palace, City Palace Museum and Shri Govind Dev Temple. Standing tall along the banks of Lake Pichola, there are eleven individual palaces here, filling Udaipur’s skyline and forming the largest palace complex in Rajasthan.

Jaisalmer

Jaisalmer Fort

Lakshmi Sharath

Place

An 800-year old living fort, the never-ending sand dunes of the Thar Desert and haunting tales bring the Golden City of Jaisalmer alive. Glowing in shades of yellow, Jaisalmer was founded in the 12th century by Rawal Jaisal of the Bhatti clan and is famous for its fort. It earned the name the Golden City from the yellow sandstone used to build the fort and houses of the Old Town, creating a golden glow over the town. Nearly 4,000 people still live in Jaisalmer Fort — more than a quarter of Jaisalmer’s population. Other historical sights include the city's Jain temples and Gadisar Lake with its elaborate cenotaphs.

India

Taj Mahal & the Golden Triangle

Lakshmi Sharath

Place

The Golden Triangle cities of Delhi, Agra and Jaipur are all located within 250km of each other and can be covered by road or rail. This is a trail filled with history and laced with stories — you get to see forts and palaces, mosques and mausoleums. The iconic Taj Mahal is on everyone’s itinerary but there is also the Red Fort, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Old Delhi is more fascinating with its monuments and markets, while colourful Jaipur offers palaces and forts. Plan for a minimum of five days to see the Golden Triangle — but more is always better.

Jaipur

Amer Fort

Lakshmi Sharath

Place

Built in the 10th century and constructed from red sandstone and marble, Amer Fort (also known as Amber Fort), with its elaborate ramparts, opulent palaces and old temples, has been home to royalty since the 16th century. Set over four levels with six separate sections, the fort overlooks Maota Lake. Its palaces — Sheesh Mahal (Palace of Mirrors) and Sukh Niwas (Hall of Pleasure) — use fans and fountains to create a cool, calming atmosphere. The Sheesh Mahal is filled with mirrors and pieces of coloured glass inlaid into its walls and ceilings. Built by Maharaja Man Singh in the 16th century for his queen, the palace is supposed to mimic the starry sky. According to legend, one candle was enough to light up the entire palace, causing it to glow and glisten even in the dark. Look out for the marble carved magic flower: seven unique designs including lotus, fish tail, cobra and scorpion, which are unveiled by hiding part of the panel with your hand. The Sukh Niwas is where the king spent time with his queen and concubines. This palace is decorated with paintings of vases in blue, green and yellow, designed to give a peaceful and relaxed atmosphere. This palace is also home to a rudimentary form of air-conditioning, with a channel cut into the ground where cold water would flow, cooling the palace’s temperature.

Manaslu region

Rupina La Trek

Stuart Butler

Experience

For those on organised camping treks, a fabulous alternative route for the first half of the Manaslu Circuit is to start trekking from Chanaute or Barpak, both of which are north of the town of Gorkha. Cross over the Rupina La (4,720m; April to November only), and join the Manaslu Circuit at Lokpa. This is a real wilderness trek with around five days away from all human habitation except for the occasional herder with his yaks. The trail skirts the Gorkha and Boudha Himal and has impressive mountain views.

Makalu

Makalu for untouched views

Stuart Butler

Place

One of the great forgotten trekking routes of Nepal, the strenuous two-week march straight to the base camp of the world’s fifth-highest mountain, the daunting Mt Makalu (8,463m) will delight those who revel in tranquil mountain trails, a sense of being off the beaten path and, most importantly, awesome mountain views. The name Makalu is derived from the Sanskrit, Maha Kala, which is a name for the Hindu God Shiva. When you stand at base camp and stare up at Makalu you could feel as if you’re in the presence of the gods. A combination of logistical problems, the difficulty of the trekking and the lack of side routes and connecting trails means that only a few hardy groups come out this way. Most leave with the smug smile of people who’ve just experienced the magic of an older, more dramatic corner of Nepal. This is definitely a trek for the discerning walker. Almost all of the (very few) people who trek Makalu take a simple up and down route along the same path. For those with plenty of time and stamina, and who are very well-equipped with a full, experienced expedition-style support team, there are wildly exciting treks to Kanchenjunga or even Everest.