South America
The places behind the landmarks



In 1830, in his final days, Simón Bolívar, the crusading independence hero who could have become the George Washington of South America, threw his hands up in resignation and declared the continent to be "ungovernable".
And thanks to much superficial reporting since then, a first-time visitor might well expect to find a hot-blooded, rowdy continent – packed with much to see and do, but daunting and possibly even dangerous.
Stow away the stereotypes, cast aside the clichés, take some sensible precautions, and above all, take your time.
If you really try, you could zip around most of South America's highlights in little more than two weeks. There are plenty of tours to the Galapagos, Machu Picchu, Iguazu Falls, maybe a quick stop in the Atacama or the Amazon, and back home in time (almost) for dinner. These whistle-stop itineraries do a deep disservice to the continent, its people, and the visitor.
Yes, any trip will almost certainly include a visit to one or more of South America’s famous landmarks. You will have a wonderful time, but expect crowds and a largely sanitised experience (pro tip: those marketing slogans about "discovering" a deserted Machu Picchu are criminally misleading!).
But try not to let the tourist attraction define the country. You're not “doing” Machu Picchu, you're visiting Peru, and the same applies across the 12 (or 13, depending how you're counting) countries of the continent, each with its own identity, history, and culture.
Sitting for 30 minutes at a fruit stall in a busy market will teach you more than two weeks spent looking through the windows of a tour bus. And if you have a smattering of Spanish you'll unlock a whole new dimension.
So our advice is: slow down. Visit the honeytraps (after all, they're popular for a reason), but save time for the cities, the alternative ruins and the quieter reaches of the Andes and the Amazon.
For Bolívar, South America was ungovernable. You’ll find it unforgettable.
Hidden gems in South America
The Lakes District
El Cañi Sanctuary
PlaceThe Cañi Sanctuary has 500 hectares of mountain rainforest, 12 volcanic-born lakes, and a wide variety of birdlife to make any nature lover’s heart flutter. Located just 28km east of Pucon along the route to el Huife thermal baths, you can take the bus or drive yourself. Park entrance is 4,000CLP and the guard will hand you a route to follow along with a list of flora and fauna that you can find on the trail. The entire route consists of 8.5km of intermediate hiking, starting with a steep incline through a fantastic forest of native trees until you reach Laguna Negra viewpoint. After that, you’ll be faced with a 45 minute uphill climb and a magnificent view of the region where you’ll be able to spot four volcanoes; Llaima, Villarica, Quetrupillan, and Lanin. You must take a guide with you except during the summer when the trail is more obvious. The region is popular with adventure seekers. Pucon and Villarica have great information centres to help you book side trips. Apart from hiking, the region has great thermal baths, kayaking, rafting, and nature watching.
Read moreHuerquehue National Park
Huerquehue National Park
PlaceThis is a true hiker’s paradise. Located just 35km from Pucon, this national park is famed for its ancient araucaria trees. The oldest tree is 1,800 years old and their seeds are a staple food in the diet of indigenous mapuche tribes. Within the park, there are two main trails for visitors to enjoy. Park entrance fee is 5,200CLP for international visitors during the high season (November-March) and 3,200CLP during the low season (April-October). Buses leave from Pucon at 08:30 and the last one returns at 19:00. Make sure you bring enough drinking water with you. The only place where you can refill with drinkable water is at the entrance of the park. The easier of the two trails is the Los Lagos Circuit, which explores the parks crystal clear lakes and lagoons. This route is perfect for beginner to intermediate hikers and the total time to explore the circuit’s five deep-blue lagoons is between 4-5 hours. If you’re looking for something a bit more challenging, the San Sebastian trail might be better suited. This trail takes you through a magical araucaria forest until you reach Cerro San Sebastian for a 360-view of the entire region, including nine volcanoes. The total hiking time is 5-6 hours with 1200m of uphill climbing. The last hour is probably the most difficult part of the trail, involving some scrambling to reach the top. Follow the orange painted rocks that will lead you to the summit — and enjoy the views.
Read moreIsla Darwin
Scuba on Darwin Island
PlaceTiny Darwin Island, at the remote far north of the archipelago, is one of the world’s premier scuba locations and has the densest biomass of sharks anywhere on earth. Rarely visited by standard cruises, these quiet waters teem with whale, Galápagos and silky sharks, hammerheads and more.
Read moreIsla Fernandina
Iguanas and penguins on Fernandina
PlaceThe third largest – and youngest – of the Galápagos Islands, volcanically active Fernandina has a unique environment which makes it a haven for thousands of slowly-moving marine iguanas, Galápagos penguins, flightless cormorants and sea lions. This is also the island where you’re most likely to see a volcanic eruption! There is a good 15km hike to Volcan Sierra Negra which departs from Puerto Villamil.
Read moreIsla Rabida
Flamingoes and snorkelling on Isla Rabida
PlaceNoted for the unique red colour of its beach and cliffs (from the iron content), Isla Rabida is known for the sizeable population of flamingos that feed on shrimp in its lagoon, snorkelling with sea lions and the large number of bird species that live here.
Read moreIsla Genovesa
Isla Genovesa for birdwatching
PlaceGenovesa, a remote island in the archipelago’s far north, is visited by longer cruise itineraries and is a favourite for birdwatchers. Also known as Booby Island due to the sheer number of goofy-looking Nazca and red-footed boobies that live here, the island is also home to great frigatebirds, short-eared owls, petrels, Galápagos doves, finches, lava gulls, and many more. Also here you can visit the tidal pools of Darwin Bay where sea birds hover and marine life flourishes, and climb Prince Philip’s Steps, named for the British royal who visited the island. You’ll see red-footed boobies, Nazca boobies and great frigate birds along the way.
Read moreThe Galapagos Islands
North Seymour for iguanas
PlaceNorth Seymour is home to one of the island’s first conservation projects. In the 1930s, the crew of Captain Alan Hancock’s ship transferred 72 land iguanas from the nearby Baltra Island to North Seymour in the hopes that the reptiles would fare better without the feral goats competing for food. At last count in 2014, there were 2500 land iguanas on the island. North Seymour and neighbouring Mosquera Islet are home to a large population of sea lions. Snorkelling here puts you up close and personal with these curious creatures and their young pups. Also here is a flamingo lagoon on the isolated Bachas Beach, and the largest nesting colony of great frigate birds.
Read moreIsla Bartolomé
Pinnacle Rock on Isla Bartolomé
PlaceOne of the sites used in the movie “Master and Commander,” Bartolomé’s Pinnacle Rock is the closest thing to a Galápagos landmark. The volcanic outcrop formed after lava erupted from an underwater volcano and the iconic formation was used for target practice by US airmen during WWII, adding to its unique shape. The colourful scenery of the beaches on either side of Pinnacle Rock is contrasted by the barren landscape of Bartolomé’s interior. It’s often compared to the moon or Mars due to the red lava rocks away from the shore. While here you can climb to the top of the island’s summit, ascending a wooden staircase through the stripped-down landscape. In the shallow waters between the landing point and Pinnacle Rock you can see Galápagos penguins, sea turtles, parrotfish, and small sharks.
Read moreIsla Española
Sea lions, lizards & boobies on Isla Española
PlaceOn Española, you’ll be greeted by colonies of sea lions and Española lava lizards lounging freely. It’s also known for its nesting sites of Blue-footed and Nazca boobies. You can hike the Punta Suarez trail to the edge of a cliff overlooking a natural lava blowhole, visit the waved Albatross breeding colony (the world’s population of the species migrates here during April and December). The white sand beach at Gardner Bay is one of the longest in the islands and sea turtles bury their eggs on the beach during mating season between January and March.
Read moreIsla Floreana
Isla Floreana for turtles
PlaceAfter being marooned on Floreana in 1805, Irishman Patrick Watkins became the first known Galápagos resident. Post Office Bay is also here, an informal mail system started in the 1700s by whalers. Mail was left for ships returning home in a barrel by those headed out to sea. The tradition lives on today: you can leave postcards at Post Office Bay for others to pick up and deliver once home. Also on Floreana is Cormorant Point with two contrasting beaches; a green sand beach caused by olivine crystals and Flour Beach, made from crushed white coral. You can see pink flamingos at the nearby Flamingo Lagoon, watch for Green sea turtles nesting on the sands of Flour Beach. Another highlight is a panga ride to Gardner Inlet for a view of the large caves and rock formations of the island. Just off the Floreana coast is the Devil’s Crown – a partially submerged, extinct volcano where wildlife thrives. Sea turtles, sea lions and even sharks are commonly seen in and around the crater, while seabirds crowd the outlying cliffs.
Read moreIsla Isabela
Isla Isabela for lava tunnels
PlaceOriginally named Albemarle Island by pirate Ambrose Cowley, Isabela is one of the youngest and largest of the Galápagos archipelago. It was formed by six volcanoes: Sierra Negra, Wolf, Alcedo, Cerro Azul, Darwin and Ecuador. All are active except Ecuador; Sierra Negra erupted most recently in 2018. Isabela's famous Los Túneles ('tunnels') are a series of pools sheltered from the sea’s currents with interlacing volcanic bridges spanning the depths. The crystal waters are home to decades-old sea turtles, large sea horses, white-tipped reef sharks and thriving schools of tropical fish. Also on Isabela you can take a horseback ride to the top of the Sierra Negra Volcano, spot Humpback Whales off the western coast of the island (June to September), see the Galápagos penguins near Tagus Cove – a favourite of pirates and whalers; names of ships dating back to 1836 are carved into the nearby cliff sides.
Read moreIsla San Cristóbal
Sharks & surf on San Cristobal
PlaceSan Cristobal is the provincial capital of the Galápagos. One of the oldest islands, it was Darwin’s first stop on his historic journey. It’s the home to government and educational institutions. Puerto Baquerizo Moreno acts as the second tourist centre for the islands. Offices of tour agencies, foundations and branches of banks are open during the week. Kicker Rock, off the west coast of San Cristobal, is one of the best-known sites in the islands to see hammerhead sharks. Hundreds gather in the depths here, while the lion-shaped shadow of Kicker Rock towers above you. Kicker Rock is two hours from San Cristobal and you must be accompanied by a guide. Also on Cristobal, Cerro Tijeretas is reached by a short hike past the island’s Interpretation Centre. The view offers an amazing view over the bay below and there are trails down to the water and around the area. Cristobal is also known for its surf, drawing surfers to Punta Carola beach, Tongo Reef, among a few others. There are a few surf clubs and rental shops on the island.
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El Cañi Sanctuary
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Huerquehue National Park
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Scuba on Darwin Island
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Iguanas and penguins on Fernandina
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Flamingoes and snorkelling on Isla Rabida
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Isla Genovesa for birdwatching
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North Seymour for iguanas
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Pinnacle Rock on Isla Bartolomé
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Sea lions, lizards & boobies on Isla Española
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Isla Floreana for turtles
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Isla Isabela for lava tunnels
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Sharks & surf on San Cristobal
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Get your bearings on Isla Santa Cruz
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Quellcaya Glacier hike
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Palcoyo Rainbow Mountain day hike
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The Palcay Trail
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Best beaches to relax
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Surfing
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Sea kayaking
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See tortoises in the wild
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Day trip to Isla Bartolomé
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Three species of Galápagos boobies
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See the waved albatross
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Shark diving
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Snorkelling
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Slow travel on Isla Floreana
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Volcano hikes
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Start at the Charles Darwin Research Station
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Llanganuco Lakes day hike
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Laguna 69 day hike
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Laguna Aguak day hike
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Laguna Radian day hike
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Wilcacocha Lake day hike
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Laguna Llaca day hike
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Nevado Mateo glacier hike
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Pastoruri Glacier day hike
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Nevado Chopicalqui Summit
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Nevado Tocllaraju Summit ascent
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Nevado Pisco Summit ascent
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Pisco Base Camp trek
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Ancascocha trek
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Cachiqata trek (Quarry Trail)
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Laguna de los Cóndores trek
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Gocta Waterfall hike
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Ubinas trek
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Picchu Picchu trek
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Misti Volcano trek
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Chachani Volcano trek
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Olleros-Chavín trek
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Cójup trek
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Alpamayo trek
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Ojos del Salado trek
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Huchuy Picchu
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Machu Picchu Mountain day hike
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Vilcabamba-Lares trek
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Choquequirao to Vilcabamba trek
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Choquequirao to Machu Picchu trek
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The Huayhuash Circuit
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Mirador Las Torres day hike
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Torres del Paine W trek
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Gran Vilaya trek
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Santa Cruz trek
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Colca Canyon trek
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The Lares trek
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Qhapac Ñan trek
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KM 104
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The Inca Trail
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Torres del Paine Full Circuit
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Inca Bridge hike
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Explore the Pantanal on the Transpantaneira Highway
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Huayna Picchu day hike
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Choquequirao trek
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Birdwatching in Manú National Park
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