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In 1830, in his final days, Simón Bolívar, the crusading independence hero who could have become the George Washington of South America, threw his hands up in resignation and declared the continent to be "ungovernable".

And thanks to much superficial reporting since then, a first-time visitor might well expect to find a hot-blooded, rowdy continent – packed with much to see and do, but daunting and possibly even dangerous.

Stow away the stereotypes, cast aside the clichés, take some sensible precautions, and above all, take your time.

If you really try, you could zip around most of South America's highlights in little more than two weeks. There are plenty of tours to the Galapagos, Machu Picchu, Iguazu Falls, maybe a quick stop in the Atacama or the Amazon, and back home in time (almost) for dinner. These whistle-stop itineraries do a deep disservice to the continent, its people, and the visitor.

Yes, any trip will almost certainly include a visit to one or more of South America’s famous landmarks. You will have a wonderful time, but expect crowds and a largely sanitised experience (pro tip: those marketing slogans about "discovering" a deserted Machu Picchu are criminally misleading!).

But try not to let the tourist attraction define the country. You're not “doing” Machu Picchu, you're visiting Peru, and the same applies across the 12 (or 13, depending how you're counting) countries of the continent, each with its own identity, history, and culture.

Sitting for 30 minutes at a fruit stall in a busy market will teach you more than two weeks spent looking through the windows of a tour bus. And if you have a smattering of Spanish you'll unlock a whole new dimension.

So our advice is: slow down. Visit the honeytraps (after all, they're popular for a reason), but save time for the cities, the alternative ruins and the quieter reaches of the Andes and the Amazon.

For Bolívar, South America was ungovernable. You’ll find it unforgettable.

Hidden gems in South America

Peru

The Palcay Trail

Roxner Quispe
Roxner Quispe
Experience

Difficulty: StrenuousDistance: Approx. 42kmDuration: Four days hikingStart/end point: Soraypampa/HidroelectricaAccommodation: Camping The Palcay Trail is a virtually unheard of Machu Picchu trek. The trail runs through community-managed land and access is allowed only with local consent, making this a truly unique trek for those who manage to get permission. I find this route offers all the magical elements of the Inca Trail – cloud forest, Inca ruins, towering mountains – but almost entirely free of any other trekkers. The route starts in Soraypampa, approximately three hours’ drive from Cusco, and begins climbing almost straight away. The main climb is on the second day, with two high mountain passes, and by the fourth day you arrive at the hydroelectric station near Aguas Calientes. Typically you’d spend the night in a hotel there before doing a day tour of Machu Picchu the following morning. One word of caution, though: this is a very challenging route, and one I’d only recommend for fit and experienced trekkers. The highest point is Inka Chiriaska at 4,937 m, and Palcay Pass isn’t far off at 4,708 m. The ascents are steep but the views, right across the valley all the way to Salkantay mountain, are incredible. You can’t realistically do this hike on your own, you need a guide and to gain the necessary permissions to enter community-managed land.

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The Galapagos Islands

And finally… where to just chill

Jon Jared
Jon Jared
Experience

Your days exploring the Galapagos will be action-packed. If you want to build in some beach time, try any of the following: Tortuga Bay, Santa Cruz One of the best beaches in the world, the western end of this long expanse of pristine white sand is tranquil and perfect for swimming, kayaking and snorkelling. (The eastern end has strong currents.) Puerto Villamil beach, Isabela The beach in front of the sleepy town of Puerto Villamil on Isabela island overlooks the island’s bay. You can see penguins on outcrops and the water is inviting to those who want a dip after a big day of exploring. Small beachside bars and shaded hammocks make it a great spot to relax and unwind far away from the crowds. Red beach, Rabida The red sand of the beach on Rabida Island comes from the high iron content in the volcanic rock of the island. Sea lions greet those visiting from cruises on this strange landscape, framed by green cactus and palo santo trees. Bachas beach, Santa Cruz Bachas beach on Santa Cruz Island is often a stop on day trips to neighbouring uninhabited islands. Its protected bay is a great place to swim, and the nearby lagoons are home to flamingos feeding in the shallow water. The beach is named after two barges that were abandoned by the army after WWII. Post Office Bay, Floreana The beach at Post Office Bay is one of the few places that is just as interesting for its human history. Whalers who first visited the island set up a barrel for mail. Those returning from their time at sea would take mail home for those heading out on their long voyage. Today, visitors from cruise ships leave a postcard and take another home to deliver. Stay safe The wildlife of the Galapagos Islands beaches, though used to human presence, present the most danger in the islands. Male sea lions aggressively protect their harems and young, and sea life such as white-tipped reef sharks can be hard to spot in shallow reefs and can react when disturbed.

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The Galapagos Islands

Surfing

Jon Jared
Jon Jared
Experience

Okay you're probably here for the wildlife, but you might be surprised by how many good surfing spots there are around the islands. And of them all, the place to go is San Cristobal. The beaches, their breaks, and the animals found here draw surfers from around the world. Punta Carola beach Punta Carola is the number one beach in the Galapagos for world-class surfing. During high tide, waves reach ten feet, but at low tide the surf eases up, making it a great place for beginners to hone their skills. The beach has two breaks — the left reef break is good for beginners and the right break near the point is better for more experienced surfers. Tongo Reef Reached after a 15-minute walk south from town through a military zone, Tongo Reef is the surf spot for those who want an alternative to the ten-foot waves of other beaches but still want a challenge. Waves here reach six feet at high tide -— providing thrills for all levels of surfers. Three take-off zones access the break. Bajito and Medio are the places for beginners and intermediate riders, while further out, Pico has bigger waves for expert surfers to push themselves to the limit. El Cañón A sought after surf spot for intermediate and advanced riders, El Cañón has a southern swell with six foot waves. El Cañon is a 20-minute walk from Helena's Garden, two blocks before Playa Man. The trail goes through a military base and a passport is required to enter. The biggest waves arrive between November and May. La Loberia beach La Loberia beach is within walking distance from town and is a good spot to surf, snorkel, swim and frolic with the friendly sea lion population. It is a popular place for experienced surfers; the surf can get big at high tide. Waves move at a medium speed – but when the wind kicks up the water can get too rough to navigate.

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The Galapagos Islands

Sea kayaking

Jon Jared
Jon Jared
Experience

Sea kayaking takes you where the panga boats cannot, exploring the beaches, coves and islets of the islands close up. Paddling along the coast introduces you to the region’s wildlife. Sea turtles swim alongside kayaks, sea lions follow in your wake and marine iguanas dive into the water to join the fun. Some good places for sea kayaking in the Galapagos include: Tortuga Bay on Santa Cruz Island is considered one of the best beaches in the world. While the first section has strong currents, the more sheltered part of the beach has opportunities to kayak against a backdrop of mangroves. This is a great route for those looking for fun away from the fray and wildlife that shies away from the beaten path. Another fun spot on Santa Cruz is El Garrapatero beach, a short taxi ride from Puerto Ayora. After a short hike, the secluded beach opens up and kayaks are available to check out the surrounding waters. There is also a tide pool to snorkel or swim and a lagoon behind the sand where flamingos and finches are often seen. Tagus Cove on Isabela Island was a hideout for whalers and pirates who used the archipelago as a refuge from the Spanish fleet. Kayak trips go up the coast from Puerto Villamil, stopping in the bay to explore and then hiking up to a lookout and Darwin’s Lake in the nearby highlands.

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The Galapagos Islands

See tortoises in the wild

Wendy Yanagihara
Wendy Yanagihara
Experience

It’s one thing to check out Galápagos tortoises at the islands’ research centres, but it’s another to see them in the wild. Since 97% of the islands are national parkland, you may occasionally catch sight of a tortoise placidly moving near some island road. In the highlands of Isla Santa Cruz, you can visit two ranchos where tortoises graze on tender grass and soak in the ponds but are free to roam through, unimpeded by any barriers. Guides give an informative talk and accompany visitors, who must keep a distance of two metres as with all wildlife in the Galápagos. This respectful distance still allows wonderfully close observation of the many tortoises, some of whom may be over a hundred years old. Simply hearing them exhale is strangely awesome. There’s a small fee to visit either of the two tortoise reserves, Rancho Las Primicias and El Chato Ranch, both down the same road outside the highland village of Santa Rosa. If you visit Isla Isabela, you can rent a bike in Puerto Villamil and ride up the coastal road west out of town. The dirt road meanders past the island’s cemetery and turnoffs to beaches, lava sinkholes, and lagoons. The ride itself makes for a great day pedalling to lovely detours, but a wild tortoise sighting along the way is the jolt of joy we hope for on any trip.

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The Galapagos Islands

Day trip to Isla Bartolomé

Wendy Yanagihara
Wendy Yanagihara
Experience

Probably my top pick for packing the biggest punch of single day experiences, the trip to Isla Bartolomé makes the perfect counterpoint to the tourism bustle of Puerto Ayora on Isla Santa Cruz. The boat trip to Bartolomé takes around two hours, passing the islands Daphne Minor and Major, after which you’ll disembark on the austere, arid islet of Bartolomé. While hiking to the mirador (viewpoint), your guide will explain the geology of tuff and spatter cones forming this volcanic island. The arresting view of Bartolomé’s peninsula pointing to neighbouring Isla Santiago may already look familiar to you as one of the Galápagos’ more iconic images. After descending from the summit, you’ll snorkel around Pinnacle Rock, which juts dramatically out of the ocean and where you might see Galápagos penguins speeding around you as you snorkel. You’ll see white-tipped sharks, reef fish, and sea turtles, and your journey to and from Isla Santa Cruz might double as dolphin- and whale-watching trips if any cetaceans make appearances. Bartolomé is a longer day trip from Santa Cruz, but well worth it for the whole experience, especially if you’re short on time.

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The Galapagos Islands

Three species of Galápagos boobies

Wendy Yanagihara
Wendy Yanagihara
Experience

If you're a real birding fanatics, I strongly recommend you consider a specialty cruise, if budget allows, to visit farther-flung islands like Isla Genovesa. This tiny island is packed mightily with avian Galápagos species throughout the year. Large black frigatebirds soar above, the males showing off their red neck pouches during mating season from March to May. Colonies of swallow-tailed gulls breed year-round, and black-and-white Nazca boobies nest here from around August through November. But my favourites are the red-footed boobies who have a huge colony on the island, numbering almost 300,000 birds. Their nesting season lasts from around February through September, and unlike other booby species, they build nests in the shrubbery rather than on the ground. You might also spy the endemic Galápagos short-eared owl, your best chance being around dusk when they become more active. Don’t despair if you’re not on a cruise – luckily, you can also see nesting red-footed, blue-footed, and Nazca boobies on day trips to Punta Pitt on Isla San Cristóbal. Boat trips depart from Puerto Baquerizo in the morning, heading to the northeastern end of the island, and you’ll hike to the clifftop where boobies abound. And if you visit between June and August, you’ll get to witness the delightful mating dance of the blue-footed booby.

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The Galapagos Islands

See the waved albatross

Wendy Yanagihara
Wendy Yanagihara
Experience

Of the six endemic seabirds in the Galápagos, the waved albatross is a critically endangered species, named for the delicate wavy pattern of its feathers. It is the largest bird species in the Galápagos, with a wingspan of seven to eight feet, on which they glide over the ocean to hunt for the majority of their lives. The albatross nest almost exclusively on Isla Española, returning each spring to reunite with their lifelong mates. In April, the males arrive at Punta Suarez on Isla Española to await the females, who return a few weeks later. When the pairs reunite, they engage in mating dances involving tapping their beaks together with call-and-response patterns to identify each other after long separations – I find this the most interesting time to visit. Soon thereafter, the nesting season begins, with each female laying one egg on the ground. During the two-month incubation period, the albatross parents take turns bringing food back to the nest, with chicks hatching around May and June. The chicks moult their baby fuzz and fledge by December, when all the albatross head back to sea until the next breeding season. Book day trips from Isla San Cristóbal from April to December; serious birders will want to reserve as far in advance as possible to ensure availability for this life-list visit.

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The Galapagos Islands

Shark diving

Wendy Yanagihara
Wendy Yanagihara
Experience

Diving in the Galápagos truly ranks as world-class, with the confluence of major currents and seasonal upwellings supporting a rich ecosystem of marine wildlife. In fact, the area surrounding Islas Darwin and Wolf has the densest biomass of sharks in the world. It’s only possible to visit these islands on a liveaboard cruise, as they’re too far from the inhabited islands for day trips. Starring attractions here are schooling hammerhead sharks (peaking in January) and whale sharks (best from June through November). Land-based travellers can book day trips in Puerto Ayora (on Isla Santa Cruz) to dive at Gordon Rocks, another superb spot known for hammerheads, as well as Galápagos and black-tipped reef sharks, eagle rays, and colourful reef fish. Off the eastern coast of Santa Cruz, this site is best for divers at an intermediate level due to its strong currents. You can even spot hammerheads as a snorkeller on a day trip from Isla San Cristóbal. Boats bring divers and snorkellers to Kicker Rock – also known as León Dormido, or Sleeping Lion – an eroded tuff cone rearing out of the ocean. You stand a decent chance of seeing individual hammerheads swimming below, and you’ll certainly see other shark species, sea turtles, rays, and schooling pelagic fish as you drift along the steep wall.

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The Galapagos Islands

Best places for snorkelling in the Galápagos

Wendy Yanagihara
Wendy Yanagihara
Experience

Snorkelling features highly on the itineraries of all cruises and land-based tours. The Galapagos Marine Reserve is home to sea lions, green sea turtles, billowing clouds of tropical fish, penguins and sharks. One of my favourite snorkelling trips is to Los Túneles (‘the tunnels’) on Isla Isabela. You depart by boat from Puerto Villamil, following the south coast of the island for about an hour before carefully navigating through a lava landscape spiked with cactus. You’ll disembark to pick your way across this maze and, looking down into the interconnected pools and interlacing volcanic bridges, you’ll soon understand the reason behind the name. After a bit of exploring on land keeping an eye out for Galápagos penguins and blue-footed boobies, you’ll don snorkelling gear and take a guided swim, encountering sea turtles, Galápagos sharks sleeping in caves, reef fish, and maybe some curious sea lions. The diversity of marine life and unique setting make this snorkelling spot especially memorable. For a more DIY approach that leaves a lot of room for hiking, beach lounging, and independent exploration, Las Tijeretas on Isla San Cristóbal is another good choice. Rent snorkel gear in town, pack water and snacks, and take the well-marked trail north out of town to this popular protected bay with sparkling clear water and gorgeous views. Come early in the morning before the crowds, as it’s easily accessed from town (Puerto Baquerizo Moreno). Other good Galápagos snorkelling spots include: The Devil’s Crown, off the shores of Floreana Island: a partially submerged extinct volcano where wildlife thrives. Sea turtles, sea lions and even sharks are commonly seen in and around the crater, while seabirds crowd the outlying cliffs. Bartolomé Island Bartolomé Island’s iconic Pinnacle Rock is the place to find penguins. These quick-moving swimmers are frequent companions in the bay especially when the Humboldt Current moves in from Antarctica and cools off the water, attracting them in from the western islands. North Seymour Island and the neighbouring Mosquera Islet are home to a large population of sea lions. Snorkelling here gets you up close and personal with these curious creatures and their young pups. Safe snorkelling The biggest dangers associated with snorkelling in the Galapagos Islands are strong currents and accidentally stepping somewhere you shouldn’t. White-tipped reef sharks rest during the day in shallow waters and can be startled. Currents at outlying sites throughout the archipelago can be strong even for experienced swimmers.

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The Galapagos Islands

Slow travel on Isla Floreana

Wendy Yanagihara
Wendy Yanagihara
Experience

The least populated and least visited of the Galápagos’ four inhabited islands, Isla Floreana makes an ideal timeout from tourism. With no airport, access to the island is by sea only, and ferries run according to demand, two or three times weekly. Life here moves as languidly as the marine iguanas sunning at the pier, which is to say that it may seem not to move at all. You get a real sense of the solitude and hardscrabble tenacity of the first inhabitants of the Galápagos on Floreana, historically a stopping point for sailors seeking fresh water, an island exile for at least one wayward pirate, and a would-be utopia for intrepid homesteaders. Floreana has basic accommodations and dining, besides which there’s little in the way of tourism infrastructure or activities. I loved meandering the beachside lava trails, dipping into beautiful snorkelling spots to swim with sea lions, and hopping the twice-daily truck going into the not-very-high highlands to the forested tortoise sanctuary and dripping springs at Asilo de la Paz. Reach out to local accommodations with proposed dates, and they will be able to help make ferry arrangements; you’ll likely have to stay at least two nights before the next boat back to Isla Santa Cruz.

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The Galapagos Islands

Volcano hikes

Wendy Yanagihara
Wendy Yanagihara
Experience

The Galápagos Islands are youngsters in the span of geologic time, and Islas Fernandina and Isabela are among the most active volcanoes on the planet. Both land-based trips and cruises combine time spent discovering uninhabited islands and snorkelling by sea. If you’re curious to witness real-time volcanic activity, I can recommend a day’s hiking on Isla Isabela’s Volcan Sierra Negra, which last erupted in 2018. From Isabela’s main town of Puerto Villamil, you’ll travel by truck to the volcano and begin the 15km hike to the caldera. While not particularly steep nor strenuous, the conditions range from muddy to gravelly and require a moderate level of fitness for the daylong trek. You’ll climb through the more temperate greenery at the base to the alien-looking lava expanse of the caldera, and onward to the parasitic vent of Volcan Chico, where fumaroles steam. To actually feel and see volcanic activity alters your perspective as you explore the varied geology of the islands. The best time to hike is during the dry season, from June through November. For a more serene look at the islands’ volcanic history hike an easy ten-minute loop through the highlands of Isla Santa Cruz for a peek at the forested dormant twin craters of Los Gemelos, or climb the short trail to the 650m edge of El Junco, the extinct volcano on Isla San Cristóbal whose crater lake affords excellent views down to the coast. Other good hikes on the islands include: From the beach at Bartolomé Island, a path leads up an ascending set of stairs that take you over the volcanic landscape and to a lookout across the bay dominated by Pinnacle Rock. Seen in countless movies and postcard perfect pictures, it’s one of the best views in the archipelago. Cerro Tijeretas on San Cristobal Island is reached by a short hike past the Interpretation Centre. The vista offers an amazing view over the bay below and there are trails down to the water and around the area. The Punta Suarez loop trail on Española Island is a short one-mile trail that puts you in the middle of exotic landscapes and beaches. Sea lions, blue-footed boobies and waved albatrosses are found along the trail and towering cliffs frame the landscape and coast.

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South America travel guides

Trekking in Torres Del Paine
Guide

Trekking in Torres Del Paine

Rudolf Abraham
Rudolf Abraham

Trekking in Torres del Paine offers some of the most sublimely beautiful scenery I’ve seen anywhere on the planet. Most famously, the Full Circuit trek is a truly epic 10-day trek through soaring, spectacular mountains, studded with jewel-like lakes and edged with vast, creaking glaciers – and the shorter W route is almost as good.

The Torres Del Paine Full Circuit Trek
Guide

The Torres Del Paine Full Circuit Trek

Erin Walton
Erin Walton

If your hiking boots demand more, the Torres Full Circuit trek is the one for you. You’ll spend days with rivers, glaciers, mountains, and take in wild, rugged views which stretch out as far as you can see.

Trekking in Peru
Guide

Trekking in Peru

Heather Jasper
Heather Jasper

There’s nothing quite like traversing a remote trail on foot, arriving at a new place by muscle power just like the travellers of old. Trekking in Peru satisfies the human itch to travel by foot for days, to earn a destination after a hearty physical challenge.

Machu Picchu hikes
Guide

Machu Picchu hikes

Heather Jasper
Heather Jasper

While there are hundreds of fascinating ruins in Peru, the famed Machu Picchu has captured the hearts and imaginations of travellers around the world.

Hiking the KM 104 route
Guide

Hiking the KM 104 route

Heather Jasper
Heather Jasper

Although tour operators typically refer to this as the "Two Day Inca Trail", it actually only involves one day of hiking. The second day you visit Machu Picchu after spending the night in a hotel Aguas Calientes.

The Inca Trail Trek: An Expert Guide
Guide

The Inca Trail Trek: An Expert Guide

Heather Jasper
Heather Jasper

The classic Inca Trail, one of the world's most iconic treks, is so famously popular because its final destination is the most spectacular of all: Machu Picchu. Only on this classic route can you actually arrive at the famous ruins on foot.

Hiking the Lares Trek
Guide

Hiking the Lares Trek

Heather Jasper
Heather Jasper

The Lares Trek is known as the “cultural trek” to Machu Picchu, as it offers opportunities to interact with local communities along the way. It’s one of the shorter treks, which makes it a good option for those who are short on time.

Hiking to Choquequirao
Guide

Hiking to Choquequirao

Heather Jasper
Heather Jasper

Until recently, relatively unknown and vastly overshadowed by the “sister ruins” of Machu Picchu, the Choquequirao complex is a true hidden gem that receives just a handful of visitors each year.

Hiking the Salkantay Trek
Guide

Hiking the Salkantay Trek

Heather Jasper
Heather Jasper

The Salkantay Trek is the most popular alternative to the Inca Trail, described by National Geographic as one of the best treks in the world. While there are no ruins along the way unless you do the lodge-to-lodge version, the opportunity for gorgeous landscapes is even greater than on the

Hiking the Ausangate trek
Guide

Hiking the Ausangate trek

Heather Jasper
Heather Jasper

Because Ausangate Mountain is in the opposite direction to Machu Picchu, this trek is not typically described as an alternative to the Inca Trail.

The best time to hike in Peru
Guide

The best time to hike in Peru

Heather Jasper
Heather Jasper

Choosing the best time to go trekking in Peru requires some trade-offs between ideal conditions, prices, and busyness. Conditions also vary considerably depending on where you're going.

How To Combine Machu Picchu & The Galapagos
Guide

How To Combine Machu Picchu & The Galapagos

Jon Jared
Jon Jared

Of all the wonders of South America, no two inspire awe and wanderlust quite like Peru’s Machu Picchu and Ecuador’s Galapagos Islands. Both have turned heads for decades, earning themselves a spot on the world travel map.

Giving back to Torres del Paine
Article

Giving back to Torres del Paine

Emily Green
Emily Green

There’s something truly magical about Patagonia – particularly among the spectacular landscapes of Torres del Paine National Park. With its sheer scale and remoteness, the turquoise lakes, vast glaciers and towering spires, this part of the world has a special hold on the imaginations of its visitors.

Forest fires in Torres del Paine
Article

Forest fires in Torres del Paine

Marcela Torres
Marcela Torres

Wildlife fleeing from the flames, scorched soil, and dozens of entrepreneurs out of business. This was the devastating effect of the fire that started on December 27, 2011 and destroyed more than 17,606 hectares (43,505 acres) in Torres del Paine National Park, forcing its closure for several weeks and causing permanent environmental damage to one of the most beautiful places in the world.

Close encounters in the Galapagos
Article

Close encounters in the Galapagos

James Stewart
James Stewart

Before their first trip ashore, everyone who comes to the Galapagos is briefed on national-park rules.

Responsible tourism on the Galapagos Islands
Article

Responsible tourism on the Galapagos Islands

Jim Lutz
Jim Lutz

The Galapagos is a remarkable and spectacularly beautiful place. However, tourism is having a big impact on certain parts of the islands.

The Journal Podcast #1: The Galapagos Islands with Jim Lutz
Article

The Journal Podcast #1: The Galapagos Islands with Jim Lutz

Karam Filfilan
Karam Filfilan

The Galapagos Islands is a place that makes you think differently about our planet. It's home to some of the most diverse and endangered wildlife in the world.

The impact of village homestays in Peru
Article

The impact of village homestays in Peru

Guido Van Es
Guido Van Es

Community-based tourism (CBT) is a fantastic opportunity for local groups to develop a sustainable way of benefiting from tourism, and for tourists to engage more deeply with people in the places they visit. It is essential that it is well managed and based on the community’s own cultural values and social structure.

Exploring Peru beyond Machu Picchu
Article

Exploring Peru beyond Machu Picchu

Hugh Thomson
Hugh Thomson

I’ve spent many years travelling around the wonderful and familiar Inca sites near Machu Picchu – but I’m also very conscious of how much lies beyond the Sacred Valley and the Inca heartland around Cusco, and of how little that is often seen by visitors.

Archeological Sites In The Sacred Valley & Cusco
Guide

Archeological Sites In The Sacred Valley & Cusco

Heather Jasper
Heather Jasper

Cusco was the capital of the mighty Inca Empire and the fertile Sacred Valley, which follows the Urubamba River north of the city, was the capital’s prestige breadbasket and royal estate. They have gone from the beating heart of the Inca Empire to the beating heart of Peru’s tourism industry.

Guide

A brief history of pre-Columbian Peru

Mike Gasparovic
Mike Gasparovic

For most travellers, Peruvian history can be summed up by one word: Inca. While the Inca civilisation remains the most studied and most encountered in Peru, it is merely one of many fascinating cultures you will meet on your trip through the country.

Must-see Peru ruins
Guide

Must-see Peru ruins

Heather Jasper
Heather Jasper

Peru is one of the most archaeologically-rich countries on earth, and not just because of its blockbuster site, Machu Picchu.

Alternatives To Machu Picchu
Guide

Alternatives To Machu Picchu

Heather Jasper
Heather Jasper

For most people, Peru is Machu Picchu.

How To Visit The Caral Ruins
Guide

How To Visit The Caral Ruins

Mike Gasparovic
Mike Gasparovic

In 1994, archaeologist Ruth Shady Solis stumbled on a strange mound in Peru’s grey lunar desert. Today, a quarter-century later, the city beneath that mound, Caral, has become one of the keys to understanding humankind’s leap from barbarism to civilisation.

Trekking The Qhapac Ñan
Guide

Trekking The Qhapac Ñan

Mike Gasparovic
Mike Gasparovic

Although the Inca Empire was relatively short-lived—roughly 100 years from start to finish—it was, at its zenith, the largest and most powerful empire in pre-Columbian America. The arms of the Inca state stretched the entire length of the Andes, from Argentina and Chile in the south to Colombia in the north, encompassing most of modern-day Peru, Bolivia and Ecuador in between.

How To Get To Chavín De Huántar
Guide

How To Get To Chavín De Huántar

Mike Gasparovic
Mike Gasparovic

“The birthplace of South American culture” — such was the great Peruvian archaeologist Julio C. Tello’s epithet for Chavín de Huántar.

How To Get To Choquequirao
Guide

How To Get To Choquequirao

Mike Gasparovic
Mike Gasparovic

Machu Picchu 2.0: so rave visitors to this mountaintop citadel in Peru’s rugged Vilcabamba region.

How To Get To Kuélap
Guide

How To Get To Kuélap

Mike Gasparovic
Mike Gasparovic

This much is indisputable: Kuélap is hands down the greatest architectural marvel in northern Peru. After that, things get a bit hazy.

How To Visit The Chan Chan Ruins
Guide

How To Visit The Chan Chan Ruins

Mike Gasparovic
Mike Gasparovic

With its strange, honeycomb-like walls and labyrinth of wavelike parapets, this sprawling adobe capital looks at first to have been made by extraterrestrials. But don’t let its weird alien geometry fool you: Chan Chan was the seat of the greatest American empire prior to the Incas — and the largest pre-Columbian city ever built.

Visiting The Moche Ruins
Guide

Visiting The Moche Ruins

Mike Gasparovic
Mike Gasparovic

Pyramid building, art, ritual murder: all three flourished at the Moche huacas in northern Peru. Archaeologists have long been spellbound by these pre-Columbian people, whose exquisite metalwork and vase painting frequently rival those of ancient Greece.

Guide

What to eat in Peru

Peruvian cuisine — like its climate — can be divided into three geographical branches: mountains, seaside and rainforest. Its influences are many, from the indigenous crops of the Inca through to Spanish colonisation and recent Asian immigrants.

Guide

Peru travel FAQs

How easy is it to exchange money in Peru?The currency of Peru is the sol. It is possible to exchange money at airports, banks and even supermarkets in Peru.

Into wonderland: Hiking Patagonia National Park
Article

Into wonderland: Hiking Patagonia National Park

Matt Maynard
Matt Maynard

Naked to the waist and barefoot, we wade into the glacial river. The opal water sends an electric chill first through our toes, then gradually up over our shins and knees until we are staggering, rucksacks above our heads.

Guide

When To Go To Chile

Andrea Mujica
Andrea Mujica

Chile’s unique shape and vast length (it measures 4,300km from north to south) makes it hard to pinpoint the best time to travel to Chile. The north is mild with very little rainfall in the desert, the centre has a temperate, Mediterranean style climate and the south cold near the Andes mountains.

The Best Time To Hike In Torres Del Paine
Guide

The Best Time To Hike In Torres Del Paine

Erin Walton
Erin Walton

Because of its southerly latitude, Torres del Paine has a relatively short trekking season, with trails opening around September and closing late April—although this is weather dependent. The main hiking season for Torres del Paine and other walks in Patagonia is from November to April, with December to February being the peak season (and the most crowded).

Guide

When to go to Peru

Peru’s climate varies depending on where you choose to go, with the country split into three distinct regions: Amazon rainforest, mountainous highlands and the coast. Each region has its own climate, with the rainforest typically hot and wet, the mountains dry and temperate with variations in temperature, and the coast sunny and dry.

Preserving Peru's history
Article

Preserving Peru's history

John Hurd
John Hurd

Some historical sites in Peru are over publicised by tour operators and have too many visitors.

Guide

Chile Travel FAQs

Andrea Mujica
Andrea Mujica

How easy is it to exchange money in Chile? Chile’s currency is the peso. Globally, it isn’t considered a major currency, so you may struggle to find Chilean pesos available in your home country.

Hiking in Chile
Guide

Hiking in Chile

Steph Dyson
Steph Dyson

A country to which superlatives can do no justice, Chile is probably my favourite place on earth for hiking and trekking. With virtually all the world's landscapes packed into one slender stretch of land, the scenery oscillates between arid desert, tropical islands, and piercing mountains, volcanoes and glacial lakes; of which a whopping 21% is protected by law.

Hiking In The Chilean Lake District
Guide

Hiking In The Chilean Lake District

Marcela Torres
Marcela Torres

Known for its conical volcanoes and its shimmering lakes, this region of central Chile offers accessible and easy-going hiking with spectacular views, quiet villages and a laid back pace of life. The region was the former home to the Mapuche people, who managed to fight off both the Incas and Spanish colonialists for 350 years before finally falling to the Chilean Army in the 1880s.

Hiking In Cerro Castillo National Park
Guide

Hiking In Cerro Castillo National Park

Marcela Torres
Marcela Torres

Located in the heart of Aysen Patagonia, this jagged mountain peak is getting more attention from hikers and is said to be the next Torres del Paine. Located 60 miles south of Coyhaique just off the Carretera Austral, the Cerro Castillo National Park offers exciting trails and mountain biking.

Hiking In The Atacama Desert
Guide

Hiking In The Atacama Desert

Marcela Torres
Marcela Torres

The far north of Chile is home to the Atacama Desert, renowned as the driest desert in the world. But despite its aridity, the Atacama's 1,000km of oases, lagoons, volcanoes and geysers is home to a surprising amount of life, along with spectacular scenery and some excellent hiking and backpacking.

Hiking In Jeinimeni National Reserve
Guide

Hiking In Jeinimeni National Reserve

Marcela Torres
Marcela Torres

Jeinimeni National Reserve in Chile Chico, Patagonia might just be Patagonia’s best-kept secret. This national reserve has been around for years but only now has popped up on the radar thanks to the newly-formed Patagonia National Park that brings Lago Cochrane National Reserve, Patagonia Park and this reserve together as one giant natural wonderland.

Cycling In Chile
Guide

Cycling In Chile

Andrea Mujica
Andrea Mujica

Chile is the most popular destination in South America for cycling trips. With quality outfitters, decent roads, varied landscapes (and vineyards!), and the famous Carretera Austral, you'd be hard-pressed to find a better place for bike holidays and cycle touring.

Best Surfing In Chile
Guide

Best Surfing In Chile

Andrea Mujica
Andrea Mujica

Chile may have 4,270km of coastline, but it’s not usually high on people's list of surf and beach destinations. While the beaches of the central regions in Chile have plenty of space for those who are looking to relax and catch up with a good book, most Chilean beaches are filled with wildlife and adventure.

Scuba Diving In Chile
Guide

Scuba Diving In Chile

Matt Maynard
Matt Maynard

Chile is a spectacular scuba diving destination. With so much coastline, it offers many diverse dives and wildlife watching, from penguins around Punta Arenas to the deep blues of Easter Island.

The Best Ski Resorts In Chile
Guide

The Best Ski Resorts In Chile

Andrea Mujica
Andrea Mujica

Skiing is Chile’s favourite winter sport, with the Andean mountains running down the country’s spine offering excellent routes and powder. For the adventurous, try heli-skiing, where you’re dropped at the top of a mountain by helicopter before the adrenaline rush of skiing down.

Best Watersports In Chile
Guide

Best Watersports In Chile

Andrea Mujica
Andrea Mujica

Rafting, kayaking and caving — if you want to get wet and wild, then Chile has plenty of places to try out watersports. Here's our essential guide to watersports and sea kayaking in Chile.

Where To See Wildlife In Chile
Guide

Where To See Wildlife In Chile

Andrea Mujica
Andrea Mujica

Chile’s long, stretched out geography means it offers a wide variety of ecosystems catering to many different environments and animals. Its isolation — the Andes makes crossing into South America difficult on its eastern side — means that many animals found elsewhere in South America are not indigenous to Chile.

Building Chile’s new 1,700 mile national park
Article

Building Chile’s new 1,700 mile national park

Carolina Morgado
Carolina Morgado

The Route of Parks of Chilean Patagonia is a 1,700 mile (2,800km) scenic route spanning 17 National Parks between Puerto Montt and Cape Horn in Chile’s far south. The route connects the Carretera Austral — which winds its way along Chilean Patagonia — with the Patagonian Channels and the Ruta del Fin del Mundo (The End of the World Route), featuring many other highlights along the way.

Visiting Argentina's Wine Country
Guide

Visiting Argentina's Wine Country

Amanda Barnes
Amanda Barnes

Argentina is one of the biggest wine-producing countries in the world, with a history of wine-making since the Spanish first arrived with vines in the mid-1550s. Defined by its sunny mountain climate and high altitude vineyards, 99% of Argentina’s wine regions are located along the corridor of the Andes mountain range on the western edge of the country.

When To Visit Argentina's Wine Country
Guide

When To Visit Argentina's Wine Country

Amanda Barnes
Amanda Barnes

Argentina’s wine regions are mainly concentrated in the rain shadow of the Andes mountains, meaning they are blissfully sunny and dry all year round. It is possible to visit Argentina’s wine regions at any time, although temperatures can drop during winter.

Exploring Argentina's wine country
Article

Exploring Argentina's wine country

Argentina's wine regions stretch from Salta in the far north down to Patagonia in the south. The element that ties these vineyards together is the Andes mountain range, along which 99% of

How To See Wildlife In The Pantanal
Guide

How To See Wildlife In The Pantanal

James Lowen
James Lowen

Move over Amazon, the watery world of the Pantanal is hands-down the best place for wildlife watching in all of South America. The aquatic environment nurtures a bewildering range of plant and animal species.

Best Time To Visit The Pantanal
Guide

Best Time To Visit The Pantanal

James Lowen
James Lowen

For wildlife and visitors alike, visiting the Pantanal is all about following the water cycle. Life here follows the dramatic changes as the seasons oscillate between wet and dry.

How To Visit The Pantanal
Guide

How To Visit The Pantanal

James Lowen
James Lowen

The vast majority of international visitors to the Pantanal arrive on a pre-booked trip with a tour operator, although independent travel is perfectly possible. A pre-booked tour will typically include your flights into either Cuiabá or Campo Grande airport, pick-up and transfers to your accommodations, and all meals and guided excursions while in your lodge.

A Tale Of Two Cities
Article

A Tale Of Two Cities

Matthew Barker
Matthew Barker

Emerging from a clapped out bus into the sweltering and dusty Lima outskirts, I began to envy the air conditioned cocoon of my uptown home that I’d left that morning in order to visit one of the city’s fastest growing areas; the vast slum districts that encircle the city, euphemistically known as pueblos jovenes, the young towns. Immediately, this 6 foot 4 inch, pale-faced outsider started to attract attention from the locals, congregated along the sides of unpaved roads, hawking drinks and roasting unidentifiable meat on open fires, while shooting bemused glances at this unfamiliar visitor.

Best Peru Amazon River Cruises
Guide

Best Peru Amazon River Cruises

Tony Dunnell
Tony Dunnell

When considering the Amazon river, your first thought may be of the Amazon basin in Brazil, where the mighty river pours into the Atlantic Ocean. But as far as river cruising goes, the Peruvian Amazon is just as compelling a destination.

Visiting The Peruvian Amazon
Guide

Visiting The Peruvian Amazon

Tony Dunnell
Tony Dunnell

The Andes mountain range runs north to south through Peru, a giant spine splitting the country into distinct geographic regions. To the west of the Andes lies the coastal strip, a rain shadow area of deserts and large coastal cities.

Places To Visit In Iquitos
Guide

Places To Visit In Iquitos

Tony Dunnell
Tony Dunnell

Iquitos has the intriguing distinction of being the largest city in the world that is unreachable by road. To get to this frontier-like jungle city you either have to fly or take a riverboat.

Visiting Puerto Maldonado
Guide

Visiting Puerto Maldonado

Tony Dunnell
Tony Dunnell

In comparison to Iquitos and the northern Amazon, the southern region around Puerto Maldonado sits at a slightly higher altitude and has much more dry land. This makes for better year-round wildlife-spotting and nature hikes through the forest.

How To Get To Chanchamayo And The Selva Central
Guide

How To Get To Chanchamayo And The Selva Central

Tony Dunnell
Tony Dunnell

The Selva Central, or Central Jungle, lies slap-bang in the middle of Peru, primarily within the tropical Chanchamayo Province. It isn’t as famous internationally as the jungles around Iquitos and Puerto Maldonado and sees far fewer foreign tourists.

The best time to visit the Galapagos Islands
Guide

The best time to visit the Galapagos Islands

Jon Jared
Jon Jared

The cool/dry season runs roughly from June to November. The Humboldt Current brings garúa, a fine sea mist, and cooler weather that ranges from 19 to 27 °C (67-81 °F).

The Best Galapagos Islands For Wildlife Spotting
Guide

The Best Galapagos Islands For Wildlife Spotting

Jon Jared
Jon Jared

The Galapagos Islands have a unique ecosystem, meaning wildlife has thrived here for centuries. Don’t expect the animals to be shy—their indifference to your presence is what makes this such a great place to visit.

Galapagos cruise budgets
Guide

Galapagos cruise budgets

Wendy Yanagihara
Wendy Yanagihara

Cheap Galapagos cruises are advertised by many agencies on the mainland. This is a buyer beware situation.

Adventure Travel In Chile
Guide

Adventure Travel In Chile

Andrea Mujica
Andrea Mujica

Chile is an adventurer’s paradise. Its national parks are open year-round and the diversity of climate along its 4,270km north to south length means there is always somewhere to visit, regardless of when you choose to travel.

Arequipa treks
Guide

Arequipa treks

Heather Jasper
Heather Jasper

The Arequipa region in southern Peru is famous for its volcanoes and the harsh beauty of its desert landscapes.

Trekking in Huaraz
Guide

Trekking in Huaraz

Heather Jasper
Heather Jasper

Move over Cusco. The mountains around the central-Andean city of Huaraz are the

Hiking to Kuelap
Guide

Hiking to Kuelap

Heather Jasper
Heather Jasper

The least touristy of the main Peru trekking regions, the Chachapoyas area is most famous for

Responsible Trekking In Peru
Guide

Responsible Trekking In Peru

Heather Jasper
Heather Jasper

Part of the joy of travel is discovering the social context of your destination. It’s important to understand the background of the place you’re visiting, and the impact your presence will inevitably have.

How to get to Machu Picchu
Guide

How to get to Machu Picchu

Heather Jasper
Heather Jasper

The 800lb gorilla of Peru's historical sites, most visitors to the country are here primarily to visit Machu Picchu.

Alternatives to the Inca Trail
Article

Alternatives to the Inca Trail

Heather Jasper
Heather Jasper

The Inca Trail is regularly featured in round-ups of the world's greatest treks, and for good reason: It's the only Peru trek that arrives directly to the gates of

Problems afoot on the Inca Trail
Article

Problems afoot on the Inca Trail

Heather Jasper
Heather Jasper

The first person I interviewed for this article met me in a noisy cevichería in Cusco, the historic Inca capital and epicentre of Peru’s booming tourism industry. As soon as we sat down, she asked me: “Can I be anonymous?” “María” has been a trekking guide on the Inca Trail for nine years.

Cruising the Galapagos Islands
Guide

Cruising the Galapagos Islands

Wendy Yanagihara
Wendy Yanagihara

Step aside, humans. The protagonists of the Galápagos Islands’ history are the rare and endemic species that populate this far-flung chain of volcanic islands in the Pacific.

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