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In 1830, in his final days, Simón Bolívar, the crusading independence hero who could have become the George Washington of South America, threw his hands up in resignation and declared the continent to be "ungovernable".

And thanks to much superficial reporting since then, a first-time visitor might well expect to find a hot-blooded, rowdy continent – packed with much to see and do, but daunting and possibly even dangerous.

Stow away the stereotypes, cast aside the clichés, take some sensible precautions, and above all, take your time.

If you really try, you could zip around most of South America's highlights in little more than two weeks. There are plenty of tours to the Galapagos, Machu Picchu, Iguazu Falls, maybe a quick stop in the Atacama or the Amazon, and back home in time (almost) for dinner. These whistle-stop itineraries do a deep disservice to the continent, its people, and the visitor.

Yes, any trip will almost certainly include a visit to one or more of South America’s famous landmarks. You will have a wonderful time, but expect crowds and a largely sanitised experience (pro tip: those marketing slogans about "discovering" a deserted Machu Picchu are criminally misleading!).

But try not to let the tourist attraction define the country. You're not “doing” Machu Picchu, you're visiting Peru, and the same applies across the 12 (or 13, depending how you're counting) countries of the continent, each with its own identity, history, and culture.

Sitting for 30 minutes at a fruit stall in a busy market will teach you more than two weeks spent looking through the windows of a tour bus. And if you have a smattering of Spanish you'll unlock a whole new dimension.

So our advice is: slow down. Visit the honeytraps (after all, they're popular for a reason), but save time for the cities, the alternative ruins and the quieter reaches of the Andes and the Amazon.

For Bolívar, South America was ungovernable. You’ll find it unforgettable.

Hidden gems in South America

Cordillera Blanca

Llanganuco Lakes day hike

Miles Buesst
Miles Buesst
Experience

If you fancy a day of less strenuous walking, the Llanganuco Lakes hike may be a good option. I usually recommend it as an acclimatisation hike prior to a longer trek. The vehicle does the hard work, dropping you at Portachuelo Pass (4,780 m / 15,682 ft) where you have magnificent views of the high peaks of the Cordillera Blanca, such as Huandoy, Huascaran, Chopicalqui and Chacraraju. From here you descend the way you have come, into the Llanganuco Valley, past Lakes Orconcocha and Chinancocha, and onto Maria Josefa Trail. This trail takes its name from a local legend: the María Josefa in question was a beautiful local girl who caught the eye of a rich landowner. She rejected his repeated advances, and finally decided to run away over the Cordillera Blanca, where he couldn’t find her. Unfortunately, as she was making her escape, the landowner caught up with her at Llanganuco Lakes. Once again she turned him down, and in a fit of rage, he stabbed her and left her to die. A heartwarming story of gender violence.

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Cordillera Blanca

Laguna 69 day hike

Rachel Schneider
Rachel Schneider
Experience

Located in Huascaran National Park, the Laguna 69 trailhead is a three hour bus ride from Huaraz and requires an entrance fee of S/30. While I almost always prefer hiking independently, for this hike a tour guide is by far the most practical and cost-effective option. Hiring a taxi would be expensive and difficult to arrange for the return trip to the city. Tours usually cost around S/60 per person, depart at 4 am and return to Huaraz around 6 pm.

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Cordillera Blanca

Laguna Aguak day hike

Rachel Schneider
Rachel Schneider
Experience

Laguna Aguak is a challenging rocky ascent to yet another turquoise alpine lake. The trek has a well established footpath and is easy to follow throughout the entire duration. The first two kilometres of the hike is quite easy with a very gentle incline over grass hills. However, with over 1,100 metres of elevation gain in under 12 kilometres, the trek quickly transitions to steep rocky switchbacks. This was one of the most unfrequented treks in Huaraz I completed, as I only saw two other hikers and two older women herding their sheep through the first portion of the trek. Unfortunately, I had to turn back within 11 kilometres of the glacier due to a thunderstorm. With wishful thinking, I continued to push for the laguna under thunder and rain, hoping to get a glimpse and quickly descend before the storm became too strong. But predictably, the lightning migrated directly overhead and the rain turned to hail and continuing would have been reckless. Need to know Located in the Huascaran National Park, Lagua Aguak has an entrance fee of 30/S and is about 30 minutes from the city centre by combi or taxi. Transportation details by combi are the same as mentioned in Laguna Llaca and Laguna Radian. At the very beginning of the trail, you will pass a few residences along a dirt road before the terrain becomes more expansive and the trail more solitary. However, it’s important to be cautious of the dogs here. Most locals allow their dogs to roam freely, and therefore they can be territorial of sections of public road near their residence. On these roads in particular, I encountered several very aggressive dogs and contemplated turning back before even reaching the trailhead. Luckily, I was able to find an alternative route to the trailhead to avoid passing near them. On the way back to the combi stop, nervous to walk through the same neighbourhood, I asked if I could walk along with a few locals I saw passing and felt much safer.

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Cordillera Blanca

Laguna Radian day hike

Rachel Schneider
Rachel Schneider
Experience

Laguna Radian is a pleasant day trek that transitions from a wide gravel path through open, rolling hills to a moderately steep and narrow footpath. Just under 11 kilometres long with 560 metres of elevation gain, Laguna Radian is a great option for an acclimation hike. The trail begins with a gentle incline through tranquil forest and passes a few remote residences. After the first three kilometres, the trail becomes fairly steep and offers incredible views of Cordillera Negra behind you as you ascend. Once at the laguna, you’ll see a magnificent backdrop of snowy peaks and their reflection in the laguna, including Huascaran, the highest peak in Peru. Need to know Located in the Wilcahuain Village, the trailhead is 30 minutes by vehicle from Huaraz. A taxi will likely cost 40 to 50/S whereas public transport by combi will cost 2/S. To go by combi, go to the intersection of 13 De December & Jr Cajamara in the city centre and exit the combi at the Wilcahuain ruins. The trailhead is about a five minute walk from the combi stop along a dirt road and through a bit of forest. When you reach a sign for Laguna Radian, turn right and continue past several farms. From there, the trail has a clear footpath and is easy to follow. Be cautious of aggressive dogs on the trail. While I personally did not encounter any dogs on this hike, other trekkers I met in the city centre warned me of their unnerving confrontations.

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Huaraz

Wilcacocha Lake day hike

Rachel Schneider
Rachel Schneider
Experience

Another stunning and easily accessible day hike, Wilcacocha Lake is located 30 minutes away from Huaraz in Cordillera Negra. Reaching 3,700 m, Wilcacocha lake is situated at lower altitude than the majority of other day hikes, making it ideal for acclimation. Taking about three hours round trip, the trail has a fairly mild incline and overlooks beautiful green hills and provides spectacular views of the cordillera Blanca in the distance. While a pleasant hike, don’t expect the laguna to be a crystalline turquoise like so many other alpine lakes in the Huascaran National Park. Wilcacocha Lake is much smaller and can be a bit muddy as it isn’t fed by a glacier. Although, it is still beautiful nonetheless. Need to know While guided tours are available in Huaraz, I recommend doing this trek independently. Taking public transport is relatively simple, much less expensive, and will allow you to avoid the crowds of going with a bus of 20 other trekkers. To go by public transport, take a combi from the north side of Antonio Raymondi road. The departure site is conveniently marked on google maps, as “Colectivo to Laguna Wilcacocha”. Note that there is no entrance fee.

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Cordillera Blanca

Laguna Llaca day hike

Rachel Schneider
Rachel Schneider
Experience

Tranquil, eerie, and delightfully long, Laguna Llaca is a lesser-known day hike with a gradual ascent along rocky footpaths, gravel roads, and a short scramble to reach the alpine lake. Of the dozens of alpine lakes I explored in Huaraz, Laguna Llaca was one of my favourites. Apart from trekking on the gravel road at times, there is a special and solitary feeling here, which can be a rarity when hiking along with popular guided tours. Laguna Llaca requires a moderate level of fitness, although the actual trail is not technical or precarious. The trail begins on a narrow footpath over an expansive plain and transitions into gentle hills with tall grass. As you continue along the gradual incline there's a moment when you can see the trail leading through a massive gorge between two rock faces in the distance. This sight was one of the most memorable and invigorating of the entire trek. A thrilling shiver struck me when seeing such a tiny path disappear though two enormous rock towers streaked with black, white, and vivid green limestone. Upon entering the gorge, a backdrop of massive snowy peaks emerges unexpectedly. From there, the trail transitions to a gravel road along the valley wall and above a wide river. A few diverging footpaths offer the option to get off the road temporarily and cut through lush portions of forest. Just before reaching the laguna, there is a short rock scramble that takes about 30 minutes. You may even see a small base camp of climbers just before the scramble, as the surrounding rock faces offer dozens of sport climbing and multi-pitch routes. When I went, I was the only person at the laguna. Intermittent gusts of powerful wind interrupted the absolute silence I was privileged to experience there. Need to know The trailhead is located in Wilcahuain Village, 30 minutes from the city centre. There are two transport options: taxi or combi (small public bus). A taxi is the fastest option and will likely cost 40 to 50/S, whereas a combi only costs 2/S but takes much longer. Although the trail is relatively straightforward to follow, getting to the trailhead can be tricky if you are taking public transport: Take a combi from the intersection of 13 De December & Jr Cajamara in the city centre. Exit the combi at the stop for Wilcahuain Village. From there, walk for 30 minutes along the dirt road toward the Lazy Dog Inn, which will be on your right. After passing the inn, continue walking up the hill for about 10 minutes and you will see a small and rocky footpath on the left side of the road. This is the official start of the trail although it is extremely easy to miss. The trail is located in the Huascaran National Park and has an entrance fee of S/30 per day that needs to be paid in cash. Although the neighbourhood where the trail starts is very remote, I felt safe the entire time as everyone I passed was willing to provide directions or guidance when they could. However, it is always best to ask the receptionist at your accommodation about safety before venturing solo in unknown neighbourhoods.

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Cordillera Blanca

Nevado Mateo glacier hike

Rachel Schneider
Rachel Schneider
Experience

Short, sweet, and easily accessible, Nevado Mateo is a mild and non-technical glacier hike to the 5,150 metre summit. Mateo is ideal for first-time climbers or as a warm-up excursion for altitude acclimatisation if you’re preparing for larger peaks. While the terrain is not technically challenging, do not underestimate scrambling over rocky terrain and through potentially deep snow above 4,000 metres. It is not for the faint of heart! Rest assured that the challenge is well worth the suffering, as panoramic views of Nevado Poroquingua, Chopicalqui and the Pucahirca, Chacraraju, and Contrahierbas massifs wait at the summit. The first portion is a solid combination of steep, exposed, rocky incline, large rock scrambles, and one precarious, exposed rock ledge, usually covered in snow and ice. There are bolts here in case you’d like to clip in for belay as an extra safety precaution. While you continue to climb you’ll be treated to epic views of Chopicalqui and Huascarán even before reaching the glacier. The glacier somewhat resembles an icefield on a 50 degree incline. Therefore, there is usually a well trodden path and snow trench, although depending on the season there can be extremely deep sections of snow just before the summit. Need to know Mateo is located in Huascaran National park and requires an entry fee of 30/S. If you’re experienced enough to go without a guide, make sure you arrange return transportation before leaving Huaraz. While this single day excursion is absolutely stunning, I found it strange that Mateo is marketed so heavily in Huaraz, especially among the plethora of other more complex peaks in the region. From what I observed, the majority of backpackers flock to Huaraz for the famous Laguna 69, Pastoruri Glacier, and the Huayhuash and Santa Cruz circuits. Once there, Nevado Mateo is presented as an approachable option for a first alpine experience. However, if you’re ready for more demanding ascents, do not let the abundant advertising fool you into thinking that Mateo offers something especially unique compared to other peaks. Rather, it’s just more accessible (and more easily sold) to a larger range of abilities. Nonetheless, you’ll still be surrounded by snow capped towers and other adventurous spirits who share a love for the mountains. There is never a downside to that.

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Cordillera Blanca

Pastoruri Glacier day hike

Rachel Schneider
Rachel Schneider
Experience

Located in the southern part of the Cordillera Blanca in Huascaran National Park, the bowl-shaped Pastori glacier sits at 5,250 metres and has lost one third of its size in the last 30 years. This short and beautiful day hike is one of the most popular in Huaraz for its easy accessibility and spectacular, close-up views of the glacier. The path to the glacier only takes about 30 to 45 minutes, has a very mild incline, and is paved most of the way. The path travels atop beautiful barren rock with a view of other snowcaps in the background. If you're planning on doing some big treks, this one makes a great warm up and acclimatisation hike. Need to know Located three hours from Huaraz by vehicle, there is no public transport to the glacier and so the most practical and economical option is to book a guided tour. Taxis are much more expensive and difficult to arrange for the return trip. Be aware that for most guided tours for trails located a few hours from Huaraz, the trail can be quite crowded. While the landscape is incredibly beautiful and serene, you won’t find much solitude on this hike.

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Cordillera Blanca

Nevado Chopicalqui Summit

Rachel Schneider
Rachel Schneider
Experience

The fourth highest peak in the Cordillera Blanca, Nevado Chopicalqui boasts a dramatic snow shelf and summit ridge. Considered one of the best summit views in the entire range, you’ll be astonished by dozens of neighbouring, rugged white peaks and massifs, including Huascaran, Pisco, Yanapaccha, and Contrahierbas. The most common route is along the Southwest Ridge and is ideal for climbers with prior technical mountaineering experience, glacial navigation skills, excellent physical fitness, and familiarity ascending exposed, steep ice slopes with two ice axes. Located at the end of Llanganuco Valley and starting below 4,000 metres, days one and two are a mild climb through dense Quenuales forest and along the ridge-line to the basecamp. The following day has a more strenuous uphill of 30 degrees over several moraines until reaching the glacier. It is common for climbers to ascend on the glacier to 5,350 metres to set up high camp. From high camp, the summit ascent transitions from a moderate incline along a wide ridge to a steep and narrow slope. While the final summit push does not require highly technical climbing, the exposure is exceptionally jarring and requires navigation around crevasses and seracs (ice blocks). If successful, the total summit ascent takes about seven to nine hours. Need to know The trailhead is located three hours from Huaraz in the Huascaran National Park and requires an entry fee of 65/S for a 30 day pass. Located just five kilometres apart, many mountain guides recommend summiting the less strenuous Nevado Pisco as a warm-up ascent to help with acclimation for Chopiclaqui. Be aware that avalanches are a hazard on the west ridge of the mountain.

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Cordillera Blanca

Nevado Tocllaraju Summit ascent

Rachel Schneider
Rachel Schneider
Experience

An iconic pyramid summit capped by a massive ice mushroom, Nevado Tocllaraju is one of the most famous peaks in the Cordillera Blanca. Located in the Ishinca valley, the Tocllaraju summit ascent via the Northwest Ridge is a classic mountaineering expedition that requires prior experience in moderately technical climbing, repelling, navigating around crevasses, and ascending exposed ice slopes of 50 to 70 degrees. The summit offers spectacular panoramic views of other snow caps including, Aquilpo, Palcarajui, Vallunaraju, and Huamash to name a few. Starting in Collon Village, the trek begins with a gentle incline through the Quebrada Ishinca valley to Ishinca Base Camp, situated at 4,390 metres. The following day, a short and strenuous trek hour trek along a steep moraine ridge takes you to high camp, situated at 5,000 metres. A rigorous day awaits as you begin the summit attempt. While the lower glacier has a mild incline, be cautious of crevasses as you will most likely need to cross a bergschrund (deep crevasse) to reach the ridge. The majority of the ridge is a humbling, steady slog of 55 degrees, requiring two technical, bergschrund crossings at the base of the ice mushroom, and a final push on a 70 degree incline to the summit pyramid. Triumphant and high on altitude, the descent consists of two the three rappels and exposed downclimbing to reach the lower glacier below the ridge. If you’re returning to base camp, the entire day takes about 10 to 12 hours. Need to know Note that in some years the bergschrunds have been un-passable, forcing many guided parties to turn around or find an alternate, elongated route. Be aware that fierce winds often follow the sunrise in the Cordillera Blanca, making the final summit push along steep and faceted snow even more precarious and difficult. As with any ascent in the high mountains, it is imperative that you are well acclimated and physically fit.

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Cordillera Blanca

Nevado Pisco Summit ascent

Rachel Schneider
Rachel Schneider
Experience

Nevado Pisco is ideal for novice mountaineers and climbers who are eager to attempt a first alpine ascent with a guide. With over 1,800 metres of elevation gain, the trek has a solid mix between strenuous rock scrambles and pleasant footpaths. The three-day ascent begins at 3,900 metres and reaches an altitude of 5,752 metres at the summit. For those who have their eyes set on more technical peaks, Nevado Pisco is recommended as a warm-up climb. Starting from the village of Cebollapampa, a short three hour hike takes you to Pisco Base Camp at 4,700 metres, with the option to sleep in a mountain hut. Day two is your summit attempt. Departing from camp around 2 am to reach the summit for sunrise, the ascent takes four to five hours across mixed terrain. Beginning with a steep climb to the top of a moraine, the trail oscillates between gentle footpaths and strenuous scrambling until you reach the glacier. Once roped up and crampons fitted, you’ll have another three hours of moderate incline on the glacier to reach the summit. You’ll be rewarded with panoramic views of some of the highest peaks in the Cordillera Blanca such as, Alpamayo, Caraz, Huascaran, Chopicalqui, and Yanapaccha. Need to know Although I love the freedom and adventure of trekking independently, I decided to go with a guide as I am not yet qualified to navigate glacial trekking and mountaineering equipment myself. The summit push is not extremely steep or technical, however it is still physically demanding due to the altitude. If you are considering going without a guide, prior mountaineering experience and snow condition knowledge is imperative. There are crevasses, unexpected steep sections of built-up snow that change with the season, and of course the standard risks that accompany any exposed, glacial trekking.

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Cordillera Blanca

Pisco Base Camp trek

Rachel Schneider
Rachel Schneider
Experience

Short and sweet with spectacular alpine scenery, Pisco Base Camp is a simple and moderate-to-strenuous (due to the altitude) trek with 800 metres of elevation gain. It’s a great option for those looking for an easier climb in higher altitude, as there are no technical rock scrambles or strenuous slogging over moraines and loose ground. Starting in the village of Cebollapampa, the trailhead is located 2.5 hours from Huaraz. A short three hour hike of steady incline takes you to the base camp at 4,700 metres. The base camp has a comfortable yet modest mountain hut built by an Italian organisation, Mato Grosso. Surrounded by the snowy giants of the Cordillera Blanca, you’ll be treated to incredible scenery and feel fully immersed in the mountains. Need to know If you’re accustomed to trekking and navigating independently, have experience hiking in the high mountains, and have prior knowledge of AMS symptoms, you do not necessarily need a guide to reach Pisco Base Camp. However, if you’re new to high mountain and independent trekking, I'd strongly recommended you hire a guide.

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South America travel guides

Trekking in Torres Del Paine
Guide

Trekking in Torres Del Paine

Rudolf Abraham
Rudolf Abraham

Trekking in Torres del Paine offers some of the most sublimely beautiful scenery I’ve seen anywhere on the planet. Most famously, the Full Circuit trek is a truly epic 10-day trek through soaring, spectacular mountains, studded with jewel-like lakes and edged with vast, creaking glaciers – and the shorter W route is almost as good.

The Torres Del Paine Full Circuit Trek
Guide

The Torres Del Paine Full Circuit Trek

Erin Walton
Erin Walton

If your hiking boots demand more, the Torres Full Circuit trek is the one for you. You’ll spend days with rivers, glaciers, mountains, and take in wild, rugged views which stretch out as far as you can see.

Trekking in Peru
Guide

Trekking in Peru

Heather Jasper
Heather Jasper

There’s nothing quite like traversing a remote trail on foot, arriving at a new place by muscle power just like the travellers of old. Trekking in Peru satisfies the human itch to travel by foot for days, to earn a destination after a hearty physical challenge.

Machu Picchu hikes
Guide

Machu Picchu hikes

Heather Jasper
Heather Jasper

While there are hundreds of fascinating ruins in Peru, the famed Machu Picchu has captured the hearts and imaginations of travellers around the world.

Hiking the KM 104 route
Guide

Hiking the KM 104 route

Heather Jasper
Heather Jasper

Although tour operators typically refer to this as the "Two Day Inca Trail", it actually only involves one day of hiking. The second day you visit Machu Picchu after spending the night in a hotel Aguas Calientes.

The Inca Trail Trek: An Expert Guide
Guide

The Inca Trail Trek: An Expert Guide

Heather Jasper
Heather Jasper

The classic Inca Trail, one of the world's most iconic treks, is so famously popular because its final destination is the most spectacular of all: Machu Picchu. Only on this classic route can you actually arrive at the famous ruins on foot.

Hiking the Lares Trek
Guide

Hiking the Lares Trek

Heather Jasper
Heather Jasper

The Lares Trek is known as the “cultural trek” to Machu Picchu, as it offers opportunities to interact with local communities along the way. It’s one of the shorter treks, which makes it a good option for those who are short on time.

Hiking to Choquequirao
Guide

Hiking to Choquequirao

Heather Jasper
Heather Jasper

Until recently, relatively unknown and vastly overshadowed by the “sister ruins” of Machu Picchu, the Choquequirao complex is a true hidden gem that receives just a handful of visitors each year.

Hiking the Salkantay Trek
Guide

Hiking the Salkantay Trek

Heather Jasper
Heather Jasper

The Salkantay Trek is the most popular alternative to the Inca Trail, described by National Geographic as one of the best treks in the world. While there are no ruins along the way unless you do the lodge-to-lodge version, the opportunity for gorgeous landscapes is even greater than on the

Hiking the Ausangate trek
Guide

Hiking the Ausangate trek

Heather Jasper
Heather Jasper

Because Ausangate Mountain is in the opposite direction to Machu Picchu, this trek is not typically described as an alternative to the Inca Trail.

The best time to hike in Peru
Guide

The best time to hike in Peru

Heather Jasper
Heather Jasper

Choosing the best time to go trekking in Peru requires some trade-offs between ideal conditions, prices, and busyness. Conditions also vary considerably depending on where you're going.

The Best Galapagos Islands Cruises
Guide

The Best Galapagos Islands Cruises

Jon Jared
Jon Jared

Step aside, humans. The protagonists of the Galapagos Islands’ history are the rare and endemic species that populate this far-flung chain of volcanic islands in the Pacific.

How To Combine Machu Picchu & The Galapagos
Guide

How To Combine Machu Picchu & The Galapagos

Jon Jared
Jon Jared

Of all the wonders of South America, no two inspire awe and wanderlust quite like Peru’s Machu Picchu and Ecuador’s Galapagos Islands. Both have turned heads for decades, earning themselves a spot on the world travel map.

Giving back to Torres del Paine
Article

Giving back to Torres del Paine

Emily Green
Emily Green

There’s something truly magical about Patagonia – particularly among the spectacular landscapes of Torres del Paine National Park. With its sheer scale and remoteness, the turquoise lakes, vast glaciers and towering spires, this part of the world has a special hold on the imaginations of its visitors.

Forest fires in Torres del Paine
Article

Forest fires in Torres del Paine

Marcela Torres
Marcela Torres

Wildlife fleeing from the flames, scorched soil, and dozens of entrepreneurs out of business. This was the devastating effect of the fire that started on December 27, 2011 and destroyed more than 17,606 hectares (43,505 acres) in Torres del Paine National Park, forcing its closure for several weeks and causing permanent environmental damage to one of the most beautiful places in the world.

Close encounters in the Galapagos
Article

Close encounters in the Galapagos

James Stewart
James Stewart

Before their first trip ashore, everyone who comes to the Galapagos is briefed on national-park rules.

Responsible tourism on the Galapagos Islands
Article

Responsible tourism on the Galapagos Islands

Jim Lutz
Jim Lutz

The Galapagos is a remarkable and spectacularly beautiful place. However, tourism is having a big impact on certain parts of the islands.

The Journal Podcast #1: The Galapagos Islands with Jim Lutz
Article

The Journal Podcast #1: The Galapagos Islands with Jim Lutz

Karam Filfilan
Karam Filfilan

The Galapagos Islands is a place that makes you think differently about our planet. It's home to some of the most diverse and endangered wildlife in the world.

The impact of village homestays in Peru
Article

The impact of village homestays in Peru

Guido Van Es
Guido Van Es

Community-based tourism (CBT) is a fantastic opportunity for local groups to develop a sustainable way of benefiting from tourism, and for tourists to engage more deeply with people in the places they visit. It is essential that it is well managed and based on the community’s own cultural values and social structure.

Exploring Peru beyond Machu Picchu
Article

Exploring Peru beyond Machu Picchu

Hugh Thomson
Hugh Thomson

I’ve spent many years travelling around the wonderful and familiar Inca sites near Machu Picchu – but I’m also very conscious of how much lies beyond the Sacred Valley and the Inca heartland around Cusco, and of how little that is often seen by visitors.

Archeological Sites In The Sacred Valley & Cusco
Guide

Archeological Sites In The Sacred Valley & Cusco

Heather Jasper
Heather Jasper

Cusco was the capital of the mighty Inca Empire and the fertile Sacred Valley, which follows the Urubamba River north of the city, was the capital’s prestige breadbasket and royal estate. They have gone from the beating heart of the Inca Empire to the beating heart of Peru’s tourism industry.

Guide

A brief history of pre-Columbian Peru

Mike Gasparovic
Mike Gasparovic

For most travellers, Peruvian history can be summed up by one word: Inca. While the Inca civilisation remains the most studied and most encountered in Peru, it is merely one of many fascinating cultures you will meet on your trip through the country.

Must-see Peru ruins
Guide

Must-see Peru ruins

Heather Jasper
Heather Jasper

Peru is one of the most archaeologically-rich countries on earth, and not just because of its blockbuster site, Machu Picchu.

Alternatives To Machu Picchu
Guide

Alternatives To Machu Picchu

Heather Jasper
Heather Jasper

For most people, Peru is Machu Picchu.

How To Visit The Caral Ruins
Guide

How To Visit The Caral Ruins

Mike Gasparovic
Mike Gasparovic

In 1994, archaeologist Ruth Shady Solis stumbled on a strange mound in Peru’s grey lunar desert. Today, a quarter-century later, the city beneath that mound, Caral, has become one of the keys to understanding humankind’s leap from barbarism to civilisation.

Trekking The Qhapac Ñan
Guide

Trekking The Qhapac Ñan

Mike Gasparovic
Mike Gasparovic

Although the Inca Empire was relatively short-lived—roughly 100 years from start to finish—it was, at its zenith, the largest and most powerful empire in pre-Columbian America. The arms of the Inca state stretched the entire length of the Andes, from Argentina and Chile in the south to Colombia in the north, encompassing most of modern-day Peru, Bolivia and Ecuador in between.

How To Get To Chavín De Huántar
Guide

How To Get To Chavín De Huántar

Mike Gasparovic
Mike Gasparovic

“The birthplace of South American culture” — such was the great Peruvian archaeologist Julio C. Tello’s epithet for Chavín de Huántar.

How To Get To Choquequirao
Guide

How To Get To Choquequirao

Mike Gasparovic
Mike Gasparovic

Machu Picchu 2.0: so rave visitors to this mountaintop citadel in Peru’s rugged Vilcabamba region.

How To Get To Kuélap
Guide

How To Get To Kuélap

Mike Gasparovic
Mike Gasparovic

This much is indisputable: Kuélap is hands down the greatest architectural marvel in northern Peru. After that, things get a bit hazy.

How To Visit The Chan Chan Ruins
Guide

How To Visit The Chan Chan Ruins

Mike Gasparovic
Mike Gasparovic

With its strange, honeycomb-like walls and labyrinth of wavelike parapets, this sprawling adobe capital looks at first to have been made by extraterrestrials. But don’t let its weird alien geometry fool you: Chan Chan was the seat of the greatest American empire prior to the Incas — and the largest pre-Columbian city ever built.

Visiting The Moche Ruins
Guide

Visiting The Moche Ruins

Mike Gasparovic
Mike Gasparovic

Pyramid building, art, ritual murder: all three flourished at the Moche huacas in northern Peru. Archaeologists have long been spellbound by these pre-Columbian people, whose exquisite metalwork and vase painting frequently rival those of ancient Greece.

Guide

What to eat in Peru

Peruvian cuisine — like its climate — can be divided into three geographical branches: mountains, seaside and rainforest. Its influences are many, from the indigenous crops of the Inca through to Spanish colonisation and recent Asian immigrants.

Guide

Peru travel FAQs

How easy is it to exchange money in Peru?The currency of Peru is the sol. It is possible to exchange money at airports, banks and even supermarkets in Peru.

Into wonderland: Hiking Patagonia National Park
Article

Into wonderland: Hiking Patagonia National Park

Matt Maynard
Matt Maynard

Naked to the waist and barefoot, we wade into the glacial river. The opal water sends an electric chill first through our toes, then gradually up over our shins and knees until we are staggering, rucksacks above our heads.

Guide

When To Go To Chile

Andrea Mujica
Andrea Mujica

Chile’s unique shape and vast length (it measures 4,300km from north to south) makes it hard to pinpoint the best time to travel to Chile. The north is mild with very little rainfall in the desert, the centre has a temperate, Mediterranean style climate and the south cold near the Andes mountains.

The Best Time To Hike In Torres Del Paine
Guide

The Best Time To Hike In Torres Del Paine

Erin Walton
Erin Walton

Because of its southerly latitude, Torres del Paine has a relatively short trekking season, with trails opening around September and closing late April—although this is weather dependent. The main hiking season for Torres del Paine and other walks in Patagonia is from November to April, with December to February being the peak season (and the most crowded).

Guide

When to go to Peru

Peru’s climate varies depending on where you choose to go, with the country split into three distinct regions: Amazon rainforest, mountainous highlands and the coast. Each region has its own climate, with the rainforest typically hot and wet, the mountains dry and temperate with variations in temperature, and the coast sunny and dry.

Preserving Peru's history
Article

Preserving Peru's history

John Hurd
John Hurd

Some historical sites in Peru are over publicised by tour operators and have too many visitors.

Guide

Chile Travel FAQs

Andrea Mujica
Andrea Mujica

How easy is it to exchange money in Chile? Chile’s currency is the peso. Globally, it isn’t considered a major currency, so you may struggle to find Chilean pesos available in your home country.

Hiking in Chile
Guide

Hiking in Chile

Steph Dyson
Steph Dyson

A country to which superlatives can do no justice, Chile is probably my favourite place on earth for hiking and trekking. With virtually all the world's landscapes packed into one slender stretch of land, the scenery oscillates between arid desert, tropical islands, and piercing mountains, volcanoes and glacial lakes; of which a whopping 21% is protected by law.

Hiking In The Chilean Lake District
Guide

Hiking In The Chilean Lake District

Marcela Torres
Marcela Torres

Known for its conical volcanoes and its shimmering lakes, this region of central Chile offers accessible and easy-going hiking with spectacular views, quiet villages and a laid back pace of life. The region was the former home to the Mapuche people, who managed to fight off both the Incas and Spanish colonialists for 350 years before finally falling to the Chilean Army in the 1880s.

Hiking In Cerro Castillo National Park
Guide

Hiking In Cerro Castillo National Park

Marcela Torres
Marcela Torres

Located in the heart of Aysen Patagonia, this jagged mountain peak is getting more attention from hikers and is said to be the next Torres del Paine. Located 60 miles south of Coyhaique just off the Carretera Austral, the Cerro Castillo National Park offers exciting trails and mountain biking.

Hiking In The Atacama Desert
Guide

Hiking In The Atacama Desert

Marcela Torres
Marcela Torres

The far north of Chile is home to the Atacama Desert, renowned as the driest desert in the world. But despite its aridity, the Atacama's 1,000km of oases, lagoons, volcanoes and geysers is home to a surprising amount of life, along with spectacular scenery and some excellent hiking and backpacking.

Hiking In Jeinimeni National Reserve
Guide

Hiking In Jeinimeni National Reserve

Marcela Torres
Marcela Torres

Jeinimeni National Reserve in Chile Chico, Patagonia might just be Patagonia’s best-kept secret. This national reserve has been around for years but only now has popped up on the radar thanks to the newly-formed Patagonia National Park that brings Lago Cochrane National Reserve, Patagonia Park and this reserve together as one giant natural wonderland.

Cycling In Chile
Guide

Cycling In Chile

Andrea Mujica
Andrea Mujica

Chile is the most popular destination in South America for cycling trips. With quality outfitters, decent roads, varied landscapes (and vineyards!), and the famous Carretera Austral, you'd be hard-pressed to find a better place for bike holidays and cycle touring.

Best Surfing In Chile
Guide

Best Surfing In Chile

Andrea Mujica
Andrea Mujica

Chile may have 4,270km of coastline, but it’s not usually high on people's list of surf and beach destinations. While the beaches of the central regions in Chile have plenty of space for those who are looking to relax and catch up with a good book, most Chilean beaches are filled with wildlife and adventure.

Scuba Diving In Chile
Guide

Scuba Diving In Chile

Matt Maynard
Matt Maynard

Chile is a spectacular scuba diving destination. With so much coastline, it offers many diverse dives and wildlife watching, from penguins around Punta Arenas to the deep blues of Easter Island.

The Best Ski Resorts In Chile
Guide

The Best Ski Resorts In Chile

Andrea Mujica
Andrea Mujica

Skiing is Chile’s favourite winter sport, with the Andean mountains running down the country’s spine offering excellent routes and powder. For the adventurous, try heli-skiing, where you’re dropped at the top of a mountain by helicopter before the adrenaline rush of skiing down.

Best Watersports In Chile
Guide

Best Watersports In Chile

Andrea Mujica
Andrea Mujica

Rafting, kayaking and caving — if you want to get wet and wild, then Chile has plenty of places to try out watersports. Here's our essential guide to watersports and sea kayaking in Chile.

Where To See Wildlife In Chile
Guide

Where To See Wildlife In Chile

Andrea Mujica
Andrea Mujica

Chile’s long, stretched out geography means it offers a wide variety of ecosystems catering to many different environments and animals. Its isolation — the Andes makes crossing into South America difficult on its eastern side — means that many animals found elsewhere in South America are not indigenous to Chile.

Building Chile’s new 1,700 mile national park
Article

Building Chile’s new 1,700 mile national park

Carolina Morgado
Carolina Morgado

The Route of Parks of Chilean Patagonia is a 1,700 mile (2,800km) scenic route spanning 17 National Parks between Puerto Montt and Cape Horn in Chile’s far south. The route connects the Carretera Austral — which winds its way along Chilean Patagonia — with the Patagonian Channels and the Ruta del Fin del Mundo (The End of the World Route), featuring many other highlights along the way.

Visiting Argentina's Wine Country
Guide

Visiting Argentina's Wine Country

Amanda Barnes
Amanda Barnes

Argentina is one of the biggest wine-producing countries in the world, with a history of wine-making since the Spanish first arrived with vines in the mid-1550s. Defined by its sunny mountain climate and high altitude vineyards, 99% of Argentina’s wine regions are located along the corridor of the Andes mountain range on the western edge of the country.

When To Visit Argentina's Wine Country
Guide

When To Visit Argentina's Wine Country

Amanda Barnes
Amanda Barnes

Argentina’s wine regions are mainly concentrated in the rain shadow of the Andes mountains, meaning they are blissfully sunny and dry all year round. It is possible to visit Argentina’s wine regions at any time, although temperatures can drop during winter.

Exploring Argentina's wine country
Article

Exploring Argentina's wine country

Argentina's wine regions stretch from Salta in the far north down to Patagonia in the south. The element that ties these vineyards together is the Andes mountain range, along which 99% of

How To See Wildlife In The Pantanal
Guide

How To See Wildlife In The Pantanal

James Lowen
James Lowen

Move over Amazon, the watery world of the Pantanal is hands-down the best place for wildlife watching in all of South America. The aquatic environment nurtures a bewildering range of plant and animal species.

Best Time To Visit The Pantanal
Guide

Best Time To Visit The Pantanal

James Lowen
James Lowen

For wildlife and visitors alike, visiting the Pantanal is all about following the water cycle. Life here follows the dramatic changes as the seasons oscillate between wet and dry.

How To Visit The Pantanal
Guide

How To Visit The Pantanal

James Lowen
James Lowen

The vast majority of international visitors to the Pantanal arrive on a pre-booked trip with a tour operator, although independent travel is perfectly possible. A pre-booked tour will typically include your flights into either Cuiabá or Campo Grande airport, pick-up and transfers to your accommodations, and all meals and guided excursions while in your lodge.

A Tale Of Two Cities
Article

A Tale Of Two Cities

Matthew Barker
Matthew Barker

Emerging from a clapped out bus into the sweltering and dusty Lima outskirts, I began to envy the air conditioned cocoon of my uptown home that I’d left that morning in order to visit one of the city’s fastest growing areas; the vast slum districts that encircle the city, euphemistically known as pueblos jovenes, the young towns. Immediately, this 6 foot 4 inch, pale-faced outsider started to attract attention from the locals, congregated along the sides of unpaved roads, hawking drinks and roasting unidentifiable meat on open fires, while shooting bemused glances at this unfamiliar visitor.

Best Peru Amazon River Cruises
Guide

Best Peru Amazon River Cruises

Tony Dunnell
Tony Dunnell

When considering the Amazon river, your first thought may be of the Amazon basin in Brazil, where the mighty river pours into the Atlantic Ocean. But as far as river cruising goes, the Peruvian Amazon is just as compelling a destination.

Visiting The Peruvian Amazon
Guide

Visiting The Peruvian Amazon

Tony Dunnell
Tony Dunnell

The Andes mountain range runs north to south through Peru, a giant spine splitting the country into distinct geographic regions. To the west of the Andes lies the coastal strip, a rain shadow area of deserts and large coastal cities.

Places To Visit In Iquitos
Guide

Places To Visit In Iquitos

Tony Dunnell
Tony Dunnell

Iquitos has the intriguing distinction of being the largest city in the world that is unreachable by road. To get to this frontier-like jungle city you either have to fly or take a riverboat.

Visiting Puerto Maldonado
Guide

Visiting Puerto Maldonado

Tony Dunnell
Tony Dunnell

In comparison to Iquitos and the northern Amazon, the southern region around Puerto Maldonado sits at a slightly higher altitude and has much more dry land. This makes for better year-round wildlife-spotting and nature hikes through the forest.

How To Get To Chanchamayo And The Selva Central
Guide

How To Get To Chanchamayo And The Selva Central

Tony Dunnell
Tony Dunnell

The Selva Central, or Central Jungle, lies slap-bang in the middle of Peru, primarily within the tropical Chanchamayo Province. It isn’t as famous internationally as the jungles around Iquitos and Puerto Maldonado and sees far fewer foreign tourists.

The Best Time To Visit The Galapagos Islands
Guide

The Best Time To Visit The Galapagos Islands

Jon Jared
Jon Jared

While the Galapagos Islands’ climate can be roughly divided into two seasons, both the weather and the wildlife can be enjoyed year-round.Visit the Galapagos Islands during the cool/dry season (June-November) for cooler weather and an abundance of marine life and nesting birds, or the warm/wet season (December-May) to see mating turtles, tortoises and sea lions.

Galapagos Cruise vs Land Tours
Guide

Galapagos Cruise vs Land Tours

Jon Jared
Jon Jared

The Galapagos Islands present an important choice when planning a trip; do you take a land-based tour or cruise? Both styles of travel have their respective advantages and drawbacks.

The Best Galapagos Islands For Wildlife Spotting
Guide

The Best Galapagos Islands For Wildlife Spotting

Jon Jared
Jon Jared

The Galapagos Islands have a unique ecosystem, meaning wildlife has thrived here for centuries. Don’t expect the animals to be shy—their indifference to your presence is what makes this such a great place to visit.

What To Do In The Galapagos Islands
Guide

What To Do In The Galapagos Islands

Jon Jared
Jon Jared

The Galapagos archipelago comprises six major islands, 14 minor islands, and over 40 islets. Having emerged from volcanic activity over a huge span of time, each island is unique in its age and natural history.

How Much Does A Galapagos Cruise Cost?
Guide

How Much Does A Galapagos Cruise Cost?

Jon Jared
Jon Jared

A five day cruise of the Galapagos Islands on a mid-range (Tourist Superior) ship might cost between $2,000 - $3,500 per person, if booked direct with the ship operator.If you’re happy to sacrifice on amenities and space, you can secure a spot on a Tourist / Economy class ship for as little as $1,500 per person.

Adventure Travel In Chile
Guide

Adventure Travel In Chile

Andrea Mujica
Andrea Mujica

Chile is an adventurer’s paradise. Its national parks are open year-round and the diversity of climate along its 4,270km north to south length means there is always somewhere to visit, regardless of when you choose to travel.

Arequipa treks
Guide

Arequipa treks

Heather Jasper
Heather Jasper

The Arequipa region in southern Peru is famous for its volcanoes and the harsh beauty of its desert landscapes.

Trekking in Huaraz
Guide

Trekking in Huaraz

Heather Jasper
Heather Jasper

Move over Cusco. The mountains around the central-Andean city of Huaraz are the

Hiking to Kuelap
Guide

Hiking to Kuelap

Heather Jasper
Heather Jasper

The least touristy of the main Peru trekking regions, the Chachapoyas area is most famous for

Responsible Trekking In Peru
Guide

Responsible Trekking In Peru

Heather Jasper
Heather Jasper

Part of the joy of travel is discovering the social context of your destination. It’s important to understand the background of the place you’re visiting, and the impact your presence will inevitably have.

How to get to Machu Picchu
Guide

How to get to Machu Picchu

Heather Jasper
Heather Jasper

By far the most common route to Machu Picchu is via train from Cusco or Ollantaytambo in the Sacred Valley to Aguas Calientes, followed by a bus connection up to the ruins’ entrance. Aguas Calientes is a small tourist town that exists purely as a staging post to reach Machu Picchu.

Alternatives to the Inca Trail
Article

Alternatives to the Inca Trail

Heather Jasper
Heather Jasper

The Inca Trail is regularly featured in round-ups of the world's greatest treks, and for good reason: It's the only Peru trek that arrives directly to the gates of

Problems afoot on the Inca Trail
Article

Problems afoot on the Inca Trail

Heather Jasper
Heather Jasper

The first person I interviewed for this article met me in a noisy cevichería in Cusco, the historic Inca capital and epicentre of Peru’s booming tourism industry. As soon as we sat down, she asked me: “Can I be anonymous?” “María” has been a trekking guide on the Inca Trail for nine years.

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