South America Travel Guide

Things to do
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In 1830, in his final days, Simón Bolívar, the crusading independence hero who could have become the George Washington of South America, threw his hands up in resignation and declared the continent to be "ungovernable".

And thanks to much superficial reporting since then, a first-time visitor might well expect to find a hot-blooded, rowdy continent – packed with much to see and do, but daunting and possibly even dangerous.

Stow away the stereotypes, cast aside the clichés, take some sensible precautions, and above all, take your time.

If you really try, you could zip around most of South America's highlights in little more than two weeks. There are plenty of tours to the Galapagos, Machu Picchu, Iguazu Falls, maybe a quick stop in the Atacama or the Amazon, and back home in time (almost) for dinner. These whistle-stop itineraries do a deep disservice to the continent, its people, and the visitor.

Yes, any trip will almost certainly include a visit to one or more of South America’s famous landmarks. You will have a wonderful time, but expect crowds and a largely sanitised experience (pro tip: those marketing slogans about "discovering" a deserted Machu Picchu are criminally misleading!).

But try not to let the tourist attraction define the country. You're not “doing” Machu Picchu, you're visiting Peru, and the same applies across the 12 (or 13, depending how you're counting) countries of the continent, each with its own identity, history, and culture.

Sitting for 30 minutes at a fruit stall in a busy market will teach you more than two weeks spent looking through the windows of a tour bus. And if you have a smattering of Spanish you'll unlock a whole new dimension.

So our advice is: slow down. Visit the honeytraps (after all, they're popular for a reason), but save time for the cities, the alternative ruins and the quieter reaches of the Andes and the Amazon.

For Bolívar, South America was ungovernable. You’ll find it unforgettable.

Hidden gems in South America

Cusco

Quellcaya Glacier hike

Claire Dean

Experience

One of the most demanding hikes I’ve done in the Cusco region is the two day/one night hike to Quellcaya Glacier, the largest tropical glacier on the planet, in the Vilcanota Mountain Range, approximately five hours from Cusco. Known locally as Quenamari, the glacier sits at 5,600 metres above sea level and serves as a critical water source for the Sibinacocha Lagoon and beyond. It feeds the Vilcamayo River, which becomes the Urubamba River that winds through the Sacred Valley towards Machu Picchu, and later the Ucayali River – itself a tributary of the mighty Amazon. The glacier itself is striking, a vast, glaring expanse of ice stretching across the mountain. Standing there, the silence is profound, broken only by the occasional crack of shifting ice or the distant calls of Andean birds. It’s a scene I haven’t encountered anywhere else. Beyond its geographical significance, the glacier holds deep cultural importance for the local Quechua communities, who continue to perform ancestral rituals in honour of Pachamama, or Mother Earth. Meeting the people who live in this extreme environment was fascinating. With the help of a guide to translate from Quechua, I was able to hear their stories—how they survive at this altitude, relying on alpaca herding, weaving, and a deep knowledge of their environment. The remoteness of their lives is difficult to comprehend; the nearest town is 40 kilometres away. Spending time with them was a real privilege The surrounding landscape is every bit as remarkable as the glacier itself. The region is dotted with glacial lakes, peat bogs, and untouched high-altitude grasslands. I was particularly struck by the wildlife—there are vicuñas, llamas, and alpacas here, and, unexpectedly, frogs! In the Sibinacocha Lagoon, I saw more frogs than I’d imagined possible, their chorus filling the air as we set up camp in sub-zero temperatures. Some of these species are endangered, yet here they seemed abundant, thriving in the icy glacial waters. Need to know This trek is not for the casual hiker. It’s physically demanding, and the high altitude is a serious factor. Prior acclimatisation in Cusco (at least two days) is essential, and you need to be comfortable hiking for extended periods in sub-zero conditions. The final approach to the glacier involves a three-hour ascent at extreme elevation. The only viable time to visit is during the dry season (April to October). Even then, weather in the Andes is unpredictable, and sudden rain or snow showers are always a possibility. Avalanches can be a risk in the wet season, making this trek unsafe from November to March. Essential gear includes warm, layered clothing, waterproof trekking trousers and boots, gloves, a hat, sunglasses, and high-SPF sun protection. Despite the cold, the high-altitude sun is intense. A headlamp is also necessary for early-morning trekking in low light. Accommodation options include camping or a rustic lodge near the glacier. I camped on my visit, but after experiencing temperatures well below freezing, I’d strongly consider the lodge next time. With the glacier retreating rapidly due to climate change, now is the time to witness this extraordinary natural phenomenon. This trek is challenging, but for those willing to step far beyond the usual tourist trails, it offers an experience that is both humbling and unforgettable.

Cusco

Palcoyo Rainbow Mountain day hike

Claire Dean

Experience

You may have heard of Vinicunca, Peru's ‘rainbow mountain’ made famous as a popular – and often crowded – day trip from Cusco. What most people don’t know is that there are actually several rainbow mountains in the Vilcanota range, of which my favourite to visit is Palcoyo Rainbow Mountain. Palcoyo is a quieter, less-showy alternative to Vinicunca, with multiple rainbow-striped peaks instead of Vinicunca’s single summit. The colours of Palcoyo are less vibrant than Vinicunca, and don’t make quite such an ‘Instagrammable’ shot – personally I think this is a good thing, as it has kept Palcoyo a much more peaceful place to visit. Having done both hikes, I find Palcoyo to be the more rewarding choice for seeing Peru’s colourful mountains without a demanding climb. Starting early in Cusco, a scenic three-and-a-half-hour drive takes you through high-altitude Andean landscapes, passing herds of llamas and alpacas, with a stop at the colonial-style village of Checacupe along the way. The drive itself is part of the adventure, with stunning scenery to take in and with breakfast included, you’re fueled up for the trail ahead. The hike itself is a gradual ascent, beginning with a 25-minute walk to the first viewpoint. The high altitude naturally slows the pace, but I found the route steady and manageable. A cobblestoned path leads to the second viewpoint, where three rainbow mountains come into view. Another 20 minutes leads to the Stone Forest at 4,900m, a rugged area of rock formations that offers a sweeping panorama of all three surrounding mountains. The landscape holds more than just colourful mountains – a red river flows through the valley, and the distinct terrain of the red valley adds to the scenery. This is an active farming area, with alpacas grazing in the distance. Unlike the crowded trails of Vinicunca, Palcoyo remains largely untouched, and I found it to be a much more peaceful experience. The weather in the Andes is unpredictable, so layers, sun protection, and a refillable water bottle are essential. Coca leaves can help with altitude, and I’d highly recommend spending a few days acclimatising in Cusco beforehand. Although the journey is long, Palcoyo is a quieter, less strenuous alternative to Vinicunca for those with a free day in Cusco.

Machu Picchu

'Coffee route' to Machu Picchu

Guido Van Es

Experience

In my opinion, Machu Picchu represents everything that needs to change in the tourism industry. The ruins are marketed as the "lost city" that you can "discover" like some sort of modern day Indiana Jones. But tell that to the people who've lived around these ruins for centuries. Why don't they feature in the Machu Picchu story – or benefit from the vast profits it brings to big tourism companies? To answer some of these questions, alternative ways of getting to Machu Picchu have been developed by those of us in the responsible tourism movement. This 'coffee route' breaks down the barriers between mass tourism and local people. You'll get to know coffee farmers, stay in their family homes, and trek with them on the backroads to Machu Picchu that most visitors don't even know exist. The final leg does involve taking the regular shuttle bus from Aguas Calientes to the entrance gates, but you'll be there safe in the knowledge that you did it the 'right' way.

Peru

The Palcay Trail

Roxner Quispe

Experience

Difficulty: StrenuousDistance: Approx. 42kmDuration: Four days hikingStart/end point: Soraypampa/HidroelectricaAccommodation: Camping The Palcay Trail is a virtually unheard of Machu Picchu trek. The trail runs through community-managed land and access is allowed only with local consent, making this a truly unique trek for those who manage to get permission. I find this route offers all the magical elements of the Inca Trail – cloud forest, Inca ruins, towering mountains – but almost entirely free of any other trekkers. The route starts in Soraypampa, approximately three hours’ drive from Cusco, and begins climbing almost straight away. The main climb is on the second day, with two high mountain passes, and by the fourth day you arrive at the hydroelectric station near Aguas Calientes. Typically you’d spend the night in a hotel there before doing a day tour of Machu Picchu the following morning. One word of caution, though: this is a very challenging route, and one I’d only recommend for fit and experienced trekkers. The highest point is Inka Chiriaska at 4,937 m, and Palcay Pass isn’t far off at 4,708 m. The ascents are steep but the views, right across the valley all the way to Salkantay mountain, are incredible. You can’t realistically do this hike on your own, you need a guide and to gain the necessary permissions to enter community-managed land.