South America Travel Guide

Things to do
Guides
Trips
Travel Companies
Places

In 1830, in his final days, Simón Bolívar, the crusading independence hero who could have become the George Washington of South America, threw his hands up in resignation and declared the continent to be "ungovernable".

And thanks to much superficial reporting since then, a first-time visitor might well expect to find a hot-blooded, rowdy continent – packed with much to see and do, but daunting and possibly even dangerous.

Stow away the stereotypes, cast aside the clichés, take some sensible precautions, and above all, take your time.

If you really try, you could zip around most of South America's highlights in little more than two weeks. There are plenty of tours to the Galapagos, Machu Picchu, Iguazu Falls, maybe a quick stop in the Atacama or the Amazon, and back home in time (almost) for dinner. These whistle-stop itineraries do a deep disservice to the continent, its people, and the visitor.

Yes, any trip will almost certainly include a visit to one or more of South America’s famous landmarks. You will have a wonderful time, but expect crowds and a largely sanitised experience (pro tip: those marketing slogans about "discovering" a deserted Machu Picchu are criminally misleading!).

But try not to let the tourist attraction define the country. You're not “doing” Machu Picchu, you're visiting Peru, and the same applies across the 12 (or 13, depending how you're counting) countries of the continent, each with its own identity, history, and culture.

Sitting for 30 minutes at a fruit stall in a busy market will teach you more than two weeks spent looking through the windows of a tour bus. And if you have a smattering of Spanish you'll unlock a whole new dimension.

So our advice is: slow down. Visit the honeytraps (after all, they're popular for a reason), but save time for the cities, the alternative ruins and the quieter reaches of the Andes and the Amazon.

For Bolívar, South America was ungovernable. You’ll find it unforgettable.

Hidden gems in South America

Cordillera Blanca

Llanganuco Lakes day hike

Miles Buesst

Experience

If you fancy a day of less strenuous walking, the Llanganuco Lakes hike may be a good option. I usually recommend it as an acclimatisation hike prior to a longer trek. The vehicle does the hard work, dropping you at Portachuelo Pass (4,780 m / 15,682 ft) where you have magnificent views of the high peaks of the Cordillera Blanca, such as Huandoy, Huascaran, Chopicalqui and Chacraraju. From here you descend the way you have come, into the Llanganuco Valley, past Lakes Orconcocha and Chinancocha, and onto Maria Josefa Trail. This trail takes its name from a local legend: the María Josefa in question was a beautiful local girl who caught the eye of a rich landowner. She rejected his repeated advances, and finally decided to run away over the Cordillera Blanca, where he couldn’t find her. Unfortunately, as she was making her escape, the landowner caught up with her at Llanganuco Lakes. Once again she turned him down, and in a fit of rage, he stabbed her and left her to die. A heartwarming story of gender violence.

Cordillera Blanca

Laguna 69 day hike

Rachel Schneider

Experience

Located in Huascaran National Park, the Laguna 69 trailhead is a three hour bus ride from Huaraz and requires an entrance fee of S/30. While I almost always prefer hiking independently, for this hike a tour guide is by far the most practical and cost-effective option. Hiring a taxi would be expensive and difficult to arrange for the return trip to the city. Tours usually cost around S/60 per person, depart at 4 am and return to Huaraz around 6 pm.

Laguna Aguak day hike

Rachel Schneider

Experience

Laguna Aguak is a challenging rocky ascent to yet another turquoise alpine lake. The trek has a well established footpath and is easy to follow throughout the entire duration. The first two kilometres of the hike is quite easy with a very gentle incline over grass hills. However, with over 1,100 metres of elevation gain in under 12 kilometres, the trek quickly transitions to steep rocky switchbacks. This was one of the most unfrequented treks in Huaraz I completed, as I only saw two other hikers and two older women herding their sheep through the first portion of the trek. Unfortunately, I had to turn back within 11 kilometres of the glacier due to a thunderstorm. With wishful thinking, I continued to push for the laguna under thunder and rain, hoping to get a glimpse and quickly descend before the storm became too strong. But predictably, the lightning migrated directly overhead and the rain turned to hail and continuing would have been reckless. Need to know Located in the Huascaran National Park, Lagua Aguak has an entrance fee of 30/S and is about 30 minutes from the city centre by combi or taxi. Transportation details by combi are the same as mentioned in Laguna Llaca and Laguna Radian. At the very beginning of the trail, you will pass a few residences along a dirt road before the terrain becomes more expansive and the trail more solitary. However, it’s important to be cautious of the dogs here. Most locals allow their dogs to roam freely, and therefore they can be territorial of sections of public road near their residence. On these roads in particular, I encountered several very aggressive dogs and contemplated turning back before even reaching the trailhead. Luckily, I was able to find an alternative route to the trailhead to avoid passing near them. On the way back to the combi stop, nervous to walk through the same neighbourhood, I asked if I could walk along with a few locals I saw passing and felt much safer.

Laguna Radian day hike

Rachel Schneider

Experience

Laguna Radian is a pleasant day trek that transitions from a wide gravel path through open, rolling hills to a moderately steep and narrow footpath. Just under 11 kilometres long with 560 metres of elevation gain, Laguna Radian is a great option for an acclimation hike. The trail begins with a gentle incline through tranquil forest and passes a few remote residences. After the first three kilometres, the trail becomes fairly steep and offers incredible views of Cordillera Negra behind you as you ascend. Once at the laguna, you’ll see a magnificent backdrop of snowy peaks and their reflection in the laguna, including Huascaran, the highest peak in Peru. Need to know Located in the Wilcahuain Village, the trailhead is 30 minutes by vehicle from Huaraz. A taxi will likely cost 40 to 50/S whereas public transport by combi will cost 2/S. To go by combi, go to the intersection of 13 De December & Jr Cajamara in the city centre and exit the combi at the Wilcahuain ruins. The trailhead is about a five minute walk from the combi stop along a dirt road and through a bit of forest. When you reach a sign for Laguna Radian, turn right and continue past several farms. From there, the trail has a clear footpath and is easy to follow. Be cautious of aggressive dogs on the trail. While I personally did not encounter any dogs on this hike, other trekkers I met in the city centre warned me of their unnerving confrontations.

Huaraz

Wilcacocha Lake day hike

Rachel Schneider

Experience

Another stunning and easily accessible day hike, Wilcacocha Lake is located 30 minutes away from Huaraz in Cordillera Negra. Reaching 3,700 m, Wilcacocha lake is situated at lower altitude than the majority of other day hikes, making it ideal for acclimation. Taking about three hours round trip, the trail has a fairly mild incline and overlooks beautiful green hills and provides spectacular views of the cordillera Blanca in the distance. While a pleasant hike, don’t expect the laguna to be a crystalline turquoise like so many other alpine lakes in the Huascaran National Park. Wilcacocha Lake is much smaller and can be a bit muddy as it isn’t fed by a glacier. Although, it is still beautiful nonetheless. Need to know While guided tours are available in Huaraz, I recommend doing this trek independently. Taking public transport is relatively simple, much less expensive, and will allow you to avoid the crowds of going with a bus of 20 other trekkers. To go by public transport, take a combi from the north side of Antonio Raymondi road. The departure site is conveniently marked on google maps, as “Colectivo to Laguna Wilcacocha”. Note that there is no entrance fee.

Cordillera Blanca

Laguna Llaca day hike

Rachel Schneider

Experience

Tranquil, eerie, and delightfully long, Laguna Llaca is a lesser-known day hike with a gradual ascent along rocky footpaths, gravel roads, and a short scramble to reach the alpine lake. Of the dozens of alpine lakes I explored in Huaraz, Laguna Llaca was one of my favourites. Apart from trekking on the gravel road at times, there is a special and solitary feeling here, which can be a rarity when hiking along with popular guided tours. Laguna Llaca requires a moderate level of fitness, although the actual trail is not technical or precarious. The trail begins on a narrow footpath over an expansive plain and transitions into gentle hills with tall grass. As you continue along the gradual incline there's a moment when you can see the trail leading through a massive gorge between two rock faces in the distance. This sight was one of the most memorable and invigorating of the entire trek. A thrilling shiver struck me when seeing such a tiny path disappear though two enormous rock towers streaked with black, white, and vivid green limestone. Upon entering the gorge, a backdrop of massive snowy peaks emerges unexpectedly. From there, the trail transitions to a gravel road along the valley wall and above a wide river. A few diverging footpaths offer the option to get off the road temporarily and cut through lush portions of forest. Just before reaching the laguna, there is a short rock scramble that takes about 30 minutes. You may even see a small base camp of climbers just before the scramble, as the surrounding rock faces offer dozens of sport climbing and multi-pitch routes. When I went, I was the only person at the laguna. Intermittent gusts of powerful wind interrupted the absolute silence I was privileged to experience there. Need to know The trailhead is located in Wilcahuain Village, 30 minutes from the city centre. There are two transport options: taxi or combi (small public bus). A taxi is the fastest option and will likely cost 40 to 50/S, whereas a combi only costs 2/S but takes much longer. Although the trail is relatively straightforward to follow, getting to the trailhead can be tricky if you are taking public transport: Take a combi from the intersection of 13 De December & Jr Cajamara in the city centre. Exit the combi at the stop for Wilcahuain Village. From there, walk for 30 minutes along the dirt road toward the Lazy Dog Inn, which will be on your right. After passing the inn, continue walking up the hill for about 10 minutes and you will see a small and rocky footpath on the left side of the road. This is the official start of the trail although it is extremely easy to miss. The trail is located in the Huascaran National Park and has an entrance fee of S/30 per day that needs to be paid in cash. Although the neighbourhood where the trail starts is very remote, I felt safe the entire time as everyone I passed was willing to provide directions or guidance when they could. However, it is always best to ask the receptionist at your accommodation about safety before venturing solo in unknown neighbourhoods.

Pisco Base Camp trek

Rachel Schneider

Experience

Short and sweet with spectacular alpine scenery, Pisco Base Camp is a simple and moderate-to-strenuous (due to the altitude) trek with 800 metres of elevation gain. It’s a great option for those looking for an easier climb in higher altitude, as there are no technical rock scrambles or strenuous slogging over moraines and loose ground. Starting in the village of Cebollapampa, the trailhead is located 2.5 hours from Huaraz. A short three hour hike of steady incline takes you to the base camp at 4,700 metres. The base camp has a comfortable yet modest mountain hut built by an Italian organisation, Mato Grosso. Surrounded by the snowy giants of the Cordillera Blanca, you’ll be treated to incredible scenery and feel fully immersed in the mountains. Need to know If you’re accustomed to trekking and navigating independently, have experience hiking in the high mountains, and have prior knowledge of AMS symptoms, you do not necessarily need a guide to reach Pisco Base Camp. However, if you’re new to high mountain and independent trekking, I'd strongly recommended you hire a guide.