South America
The places behind the landmarks
In 1830, in his final days, Simón Bolívar, the crusading independence hero who could have become the George Washington of South America, threw his hands up in resignation and declared the continent to be "ungovernable".
And thanks to much superficial reporting since then, a first-time visitor might well expect to find a hot-blooded, rowdy continent – packed with much to see and do, but daunting and possibly even dangerous.
Stow away the stereotypes, cast aside the clichés, take some sensible precautions, and above all, take your time.
If you really try, you could zip around most of South America's highlights in little more than two weeks. There are plenty of tours to the Galapagos, Machu Picchu, Iguazu Falls, maybe a quick stop in the Atacama or the Amazon, and back home in time (almost) for dinner. These whistle-stop itineraries do a deep disservice to the continent, its people, and the visitor.
Yes, any trip will almost certainly include a visit to one or more of South America’s famous landmarks. You will have a wonderful time, but expect crowds and a largely sanitised experience (pro tip: those marketing slogans about "discovering" a deserted Machu Picchu are criminally misleading!).
But try not to let the tourist attraction define the country. You're not “doing” Machu Picchu, you're visiting Peru, and the same applies across the 12 (or 13, depending how you're counting) countries of the continent, each with its own identity, history, and culture.
Sitting for 30 minutes at a fruit stall in a busy market will teach you more than two weeks spent looking through the windows of a tour bus. And if you have a smattering of Spanish you'll unlock a whole new dimension.
So our advice is: slow down. Visit the honeytraps (after all, they're popular for a reason), but save time for the cities, the alternative ruins and the quieter reaches of the Andes and the Amazon.
For Bolívar, South America was ungovernable. You’ll find it unforgettable.
Hidden gems in South America
Peru
The Palcay Trail
ExperienceDifficulty: StrenuousDistance: Approx. 42kmDuration: Four days hikingStart/end point: Soraypampa/HidroelectricaAccommodation: Camping The Palcay Trail is a virtually unheard of Machu Picchu trek. The trail runs through community-managed land and access is allowed only with local consent, making this a truly unique trek for those who manage to get permission. I find this route offers all the magical elements of the Inca Trail – cloud forest, Inca ruins, towering mountains – but almost entirely free of any other trekkers. The route starts in Soraypampa, approximately three hours’ drive from Cusco, and begins climbing almost straight away. The main climb is on the second day, with two high mountain passes, and by the fourth day you arrive at the hydroelectric station near Aguas Calientes. Typically you’d spend the night in a hotel there before doing a day tour of Machu Picchu the following morning. One word of caution, though: this is a very challenging route, and one I’d only recommend for fit and experienced trekkers. The highest point is Inka Chiriaska at 4,937 m, and Palcay Pass isn’t far off at 4,708 m. The ascents are steep but the views, right across the valley all the way to Salkantay mountain, are incredible. You can’t realistically do this hike on your own, you need a guide and to gain the necessary permissions to enter community-managed land.
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And finally… where to just chill
ExperienceYour days exploring the Galapagos will be action-packed. If you want to build in some beach time, try any of the following: Tortuga Bay, Santa Cruz One of the best beaches in the world, the western end of this long expanse of pristine white sand is tranquil and perfect for swimming, kayaking and snorkelling. (The eastern end has strong currents.) Puerto Villamil beach, Isabela The beach in front of the sleepy town of Puerto Villamil on Isabela island overlooks the island’s bay. You can see penguins on outcrops and the water is inviting to those who want a dip after a big day of exploring. Small beachside bars and shaded hammocks make it a great spot to relax and unwind far away from the crowds. Red beach, Rabida The red sand of the beach on Rabida Island comes from the high iron content in the volcanic rock of the island. Sea lions greet those visiting from cruises on this strange landscape, framed by green cactus and palo santo trees. Bachas beach, Santa Cruz Bachas beach on Santa Cruz Island is often a stop on day trips to neighbouring uninhabited islands. Its protected bay is a great place to swim, and the nearby lagoons are home to flamingos feeding in the shallow water. The beach is named after two barges that were abandoned by the army after WWII. Post Office Bay, Floreana The beach at Post Office Bay is one of the few places that is just as interesting for its human history. Whalers who first visited the island set up a barrel for mail. Those returning from their time at sea would take mail home for those heading out on their long voyage. Today, visitors from cruise ships leave a postcard and take another home to deliver. Stay safe The wildlife of the Galapagos Islands beaches, though used to human presence, present the most danger in the islands. Male sea lions aggressively protect their harems and young, and sea life such as white-tipped reef sharks can be hard to spot in shallow reefs and can react when disturbed.
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Surfing
ExperienceOkay you're probably here for the wildlife, but you might be surprised by how many good surfing spots there are around the islands. And of them all, the place to go is San Cristobal. The beaches, their breaks, and the animals found here draw surfers from around the world. Punta Carola beach Punta Carola is the number one beach in the Galapagos for world-class surfing. During high tide, waves reach ten feet, but at low tide the surf eases up, making it a great place for beginners to hone their skills. The beach has two breaks — the left reef break is good for beginners and the right break near the point is better for more experienced surfers. Tongo Reef Reached after a 15-minute walk south from town through a military zone, Tongo Reef is the surf spot for those who want an alternative to the ten-foot waves of other beaches but still want a challenge. Waves here reach six feet at high tide -— providing thrills for all levels of surfers. Three take-off zones access the break. Bajito and Medio are the places for beginners and intermediate riders, while further out, Pico has bigger waves for expert surfers to push themselves to the limit. El Cañón A sought after surf spot for intermediate and advanced riders, El Cañón has a southern swell with six foot waves. El Cañon is a 20-minute walk from Helena's Garden, two blocks before Playa Man. The trail goes through a military base and a passport is required to enter. The biggest waves arrive between November and May. La Loberia beach La Loberia beach is within walking distance from town and is a good spot to surf, snorkel, swim and frolic with the friendly sea lion population. It is a popular place for experienced surfers; the surf can get big at high tide. Waves move at a medium speed – but when the wind kicks up the water can get too rough to navigate.
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Sea kayaking
ExperienceSea kayaking takes you where the panga boats cannot, exploring the beaches, coves and islets of the islands close up. Paddling along the coast introduces you to the region’s wildlife. Sea turtles swim alongside kayaks, sea lions follow in your wake and marine iguanas dive into the water to join the fun. Some good places for sea kayaking in the Galapagos include: Tortuga Bay on Santa Cruz Island is considered one of the best beaches in the world. While the first section has strong currents, the more sheltered part of the beach has opportunities to kayak against a backdrop of mangroves. This is a great route for those looking for fun away from the fray and wildlife that shies away from the beaten path. Another fun spot on Santa Cruz is El Garrapatero beach, a short taxi ride from Puerto Ayora. After a short hike, the secluded beach opens up and kayaks are available to check out the surrounding waters. There is also a tide pool to snorkel or swim and a lagoon behind the sand where flamingos and finches are often seen. Tagus Cove on Isabela Island was a hideout for whalers and pirates who used the archipelago as a refuge from the Spanish fleet. Kayak trips go up the coast from Puerto Villamil, stopping in the bay to explore and then hiking up to a lookout and Darwin’s Lake in the nearby highlands.
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See tortoises in the wild
ExperienceIt’s one thing to check out Galápagos tortoises at the islands’ research centres, but it’s another to see them in the wild. Since 97% of the islands are national parkland, you may occasionally catch sight of a tortoise placidly moving near some island road. In the highlands of Isla Santa Cruz, you can visit two ranchos where tortoises graze on tender grass and soak in the ponds but are free to roam through, unimpeded by any barriers. Guides give an informative talk and accompany visitors, who must keep a distance of two metres as with all wildlife in the Galápagos. This respectful distance still allows wonderfully close observation of the many tortoises, some of whom may be over a hundred years old. Simply hearing them exhale is strangely awesome. There’s a small fee to visit either of the two tortoise reserves, Rancho Las Primicias and El Chato Ranch, both down the same road outside the highland village of Santa Rosa. If you visit Isla Isabela, you can rent a bike in Puerto Villamil and ride up the coastal road west out of town. The dirt road meanders past the island’s cemetery and turnoffs to beaches, lava sinkholes, and lagoons. The ride itself makes for a great day pedalling to lovely detours, but a wild tortoise sighting along the way is the jolt of joy we hope for on any trip.
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Day trip to Isla Bartolomé
ExperienceProbably my top pick for packing the biggest punch of single day experiences, the trip to Isla Bartolomé makes the perfect counterpoint to the tourism bustle of Puerto Ayora on Isla Santa Cruz. The boat trip to Bartolomé takes around two hours, passing the islands Daphne Minor and Major, after which you’ll disembark on the austere, arid islet of Bartolomé. While hiking to the mirador (viewpoint), your guide will explain the geology of tuff and spatter cones forming this volcanic island. The arresting view of Bartolomé’s peninsula pointing to neighbouring Isla Santiago may already look familiar to you as one of the Galápagos’ more iconic images. After descending from the summit, you’ll snorkel around Pinnacle Rock, which juts dramatically out of the ocean and where you might see Galápagos penguins speeding around you as you snorkel. You’ll see white-tipped sharks, reef fish, and sea turtles, and your journey to and from Isla Santa Cruz might double as dolphin- and whale-watching trips if any cetaceans make appearances. Bartolomé is a longer day trip from Santa Cruz, but well worth it for the whole experience, especially if you’re short on time.
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Three species of Galápagos boobies
ExperienceIf you're a real birding fanatics, I strongly recommend you consider a specialty cruise, if budget allows, to visit farther-flung islands like Isla Genovesa. This tiny island is packed mightily with avian Galápagos species throughout the year. Large black frigatebirds soar above, the males showing off their red neck pouches during mating season from March to May. Colonies of swallow-tailed gulls breed year-round, and black-and-white Nazca boobies nest here from around August through November. But my favourites are the red-footed boobies who have a huge colony on the island, numbering almost 300,000 birds. Their nesting season lasts from around February through September, and unlike other booby species, they build nests in the shrubbery rather than on the ground. You might also spy the endemic Galápagos short-eared owl, your best chance being around dusk when they become more active. Don’t despair if you’re not on a cruise – luckily, you can also see nesting red-footed, blue-footed, and Nazca boobies on day trips to Punta Pitt on Isla San Cristóbal. Boat trips depart from Puerto Baquerizo in the morning, heading to the northeastern end of the island, and you’ll hike to the clifftop where boobies abound. And if you visit between June and August, you’ll get to witness the delightful mating dance of the blue-footed booby.
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See the waved albatross
ExperienceOf the six endemic seabirds in the Galápagos, the waved albatross is a critically endangered species, named for the delicate wavy pattern of its feathers. It is the largest bird species in the Galápagos, with a wingspan of seven to eight feet, on which they glide over the ocean to hunt for the majority of their lives. The albatross nest almost exclusively on Isla Española, returning each spring to reunite with their lifelong mates. In April, the males arrive at Punta Suarez on Isla Española to await the females, who return a few weeks later. When the pairs reunite, they engage in mating dances involving tapping their beaks together with call-and-response patterns to identify each other after long separations – I find this the most interesting time to visit. Soon thereafter, the nesting season begins, with each female laying one egg on the ground. During the two-month incubation period, the albatross parents take turns bringing food back to the nest, with chicks hatching around May and June. The chicks moult their baby fuzz and fledge by December, when all the albatross head back to sea until the next breeding season. Book day trips from Isla San Cristóbal from April to December; serious birders will want to reserve as far in advance as possible to ensure availability for this life-list visit.
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Shark diving
ExperienceDiving in the Galápagos truly ranks as world-class, with the confluence of major currents and seasonal upwellings supporting a rich ecosystem of marine wildlife. In fact, the area surrounding Islas Darwin and Wolf has the densest biomass of sharks in the world. It’s only possible to visit these islands on a liveaboard cruise, as they’re too far from the inhabited islands for day trips. Starring attractions here are schooling hammerhead sharks (peaking in January) and whale sharks (best from June through November). Land-based travellers can book day trips in Puerto Ayora (on Isla Santa Cruz) to dive at Gordon Rocks, another superb spot known for hammerheads, as well as Galápagos and black-tipped reef sharks, eagle rays, and colourful reef fish. Off the eastern coast of Santa Cruz, this site is best for divers at an intermediate level due to its strong currents. You can even spot hammerheads as a snorkeller on a day trip from Isla San Cristóbal. Boats bring divers and snorkellers to Kicker Rock – also known as León Dormido, or Sleeping Lion – an eroded tuff cone rearing out of the ocean. You stand a decent chance of seeing individual hammerheads swimming below, and you’ll certainly see other shark species, sea turtles, rays, and schooling pelagic fish as you drift along the steep wall.
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Best places for snorkelling in the Galápagos
ExperienceSnorkelling features highly on the itineraries of all cruises and land-based tours. The Galapagos Marine Reserve is home to sea lions, green sea turtles, billowing clouds of tropical fish, penguins and sharks. One of my favourite snorkelling trips is to Los Túneles (‘the tunnels’) on Isla Isabela. You depart by boat from Puerto Villamil, following the south coast of the island for about an hour before carefully navigating through a lava landscape spiked with cactus. You’ll disembark to pick your way across this maze and, looking down into the interconnected pools and interlacing volcanic bridges, you’ll soon understand the reason behind the name. After a bit of exploring on land keeping an eye out for Galápagos penguins and blue-footed boobies, you’ll don snorkelling gear and take a guided swim, encountering sea turtles, Galápagos sharks sleeping in caves, reef fish, and maybe some curious sea lions. The diversity of marine life and unique setting make this snorkelling spot especially memorable. For a more DIY approach that leaves a lot of room for hiking, beach lounging, and independent exploration, Las Tijeretas on Isla San Cristóbal is another good choice. Rent snorkel gear in town, pack water and snacks, and take the well-marked trail north out of town to this popular protected bay with sparkling clear water and gorgeous views. Come early in the morning before the crowds, as it’s easily accessed from town (Puerto Baquerizo Moreno). Other good Galápagos snorkelling spots include: The Devil’s Crown, off the shores of Floreana Island: a partially submerged extinct volcano where wildlife thrives. Sea turtles, sea lions and even sharks are commonly seen in and around the crater, while seabirds crowd the outlying cliffs. Bartolomé Island Bartolomé Island’s iconic Pinnacle Rock is the place to find penguins. These quick-moving swimmers are frequent companions in the bay especially when the Humboldt Current moves in from Antarctica and cools off the water, attracting them in from the western islands. North Seymour Island and the neighbouring Mosquera Islet are home to a large population of sea lions. Snorkelling here gets you up close and personal with these curious creatures and their young pups. Safe snorkelling The biggest dangers associated with snorkelling in the Galapagos Islands are strong currents and accidentally stepping somewhere you shouldn’t. White-tipped reef sharks rest during the day in shallow waters and can be startled. Currents at outlying sites throughout the archipelago can be strong even for experienced swimmers.
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Slow travel on Isla Floreana
ExperienceThe least populated and least visited of the Galápagos’ four inhabited islands, Isla Floreana makes an ideal timeout from tourism. With no airport, access to the island is by sea only, and ferries run according to demand, two or three times weekly. Life here moves as languidly as the marine iguanas sunning at the pier, which is to say that it may seem not to move at all. You get a real sense of the solitude and hardscrabble tenacity of the first inhabitants of the Galápagos on Floreana, historically a stopping point for sailors seeking fresh water, an island exile for at least one wayward pirate, and a would-be utopia for intrepid homesteaders. Floreana has basic accommodations and dining, besides which there’s little in the way of tourism infrastructure or activities. I loved meandering the beachside lava trails, dipping into beautiful snorkelling spots to swim with sea lions, and hopping the twice-daily truck going into the not-very-high highlands to the forested tortoise sanctuary and dripping springs at Asilo de la Paz. Reach out to local accommodations with proposed dates, and they will be able to help make ferry arrangements; you’ll likely have to stay at least two nights before the next boat back to Isla Santa Cruz.
Read moreThe Galapagos Islands
Volcano hikes
ExperienceThe Galápagos Islands are youngsters in the span of geologic time, and Islas Fernandina and Isabela are among the most active volcanoes on the planet. Both land-based trips and cruises combine time spent discovering uninhabited islands and snorkelling by sea. If you’re curious to witness real-time volcanic activity, I can recommend a day’s hiking on Isla Isabela’s Volcan Sierra Negra, which last erupted in 2018. From Isabela’s main town of Puerto Villamil, you’ll travel by truck to the volcano and begin the 15km hike to the caldera. While not particularly steep nor strenuous, the conditions range from muddy to gravelly and require a moderate level of fitness for the daylong trek. You’ll climb through the more temperate greenery at the base to the alien-looking lava expanse of the caldera, and onward to the parasitic vent of Volcan Chico, where fumaroles steam. To actually feel and see volcanic activity alters your perspective as you explore the varied geology of the islands. The best time to hike is during the dry season, from June through November. For a more serene look at the islands’ volcanic history hike an easy ten-minute loop through the highlands of Isla Santa Cruz for a peek at the forested dormant twin craters of Los Gemelos, or climb the short trail to the 650m edge of El Junco, the extinct volcano on Isla San Cristóbal whose crater lake affords excellent views down to the coast. Other good hikes on the islands include: From the beach at Bartolomé Island, a path leads up an ascending set of stairs that take you over the volcanic landscape and to a lookout across the bay dominated by Pinnacle Rock. Seen in countless movies and postcard perfect pictures, it’s one of the best views in the archipelago. Cerro Tijeretas on San Cristobal Island is reached by a short hike past the Interpretation Centre. The vista offers an amazing view over the bay below and there are trails down to the water and around the area. The Punta Suarez loop trail on Española Island is a short one-mile trail that puts you in the middle of exotic landscapes and beaches. Sea lions, blue-footed boobies and waved albatrosses are found along the trail and towering cliffs frame the landscape and coast.
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The Palcay Trail
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And finally… where to just chill
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Surfing
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Sea kayaking
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See tortoises in the wild
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Day trip to Isla Bartolomé
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Three species of Galápagos boobies
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See the waved albatross
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Shark diving
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Best places for snorkelling in the Galápagos
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Slow travel on Isla Floreana
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Volcano hikes
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Start at the Charles Darwin Research Station
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Llanganuco Lakes day hike
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Laguna 69 day hike
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Laguna Aguak day hike
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Laguna Radian day hike
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Wilcacocha Lake day hike
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Laguna Llaca day hike
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Nevado Mateo glacier hike
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Pastoruri Glacier day hike
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Nevado Chopicalqui Summit
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Nevado Tocllaraju Summit ascent
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Nevado Pisco Summit ascent
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Pisco Base Camp trek
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Ancascocha trek
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Cachiqata trek (Quarry Trail)
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Laguna de los Cóndores trek
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Gocta Waterfall hike
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Ubinas trek
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Picchu Picchu trek
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Misti Volcano trek
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Chachani Volcano trek
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Olleros-Chavín trek
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Cójup trek
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Alpamayo trek
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Ojos del Salado trek
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Huchuy Picchu
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Machu Picchu Mountain day hike
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Vilcabamba-Lares trek
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Choquequirao to Vilcabamba trek
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Choquequirao to Machu Picchu trek
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The Huayhuash Circuit
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Mirador Las Torres day hike
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Torres del Paine W trek
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Gran Vilaya trek
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Santa Cruz trek
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Colca Canyon trek
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The Lares trek
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Qhapac Ñan trek
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KM 104
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The Inca Trail
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Torres del Paine Full Circuit
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Inca Bridge hike
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Explore the Pantanal on the Transpantaneira Highway
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Huayna Picchu day hike
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Choquequirao trek
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Birdwatching in Manú National Park
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