South America
The places behind the landmarks
In 1830, in his final days, Simón Bolívar, the crusading independence hero who could have become the George Washington of South America, threw his hands up in resignation and declared the continent to be "ungovernable".
And thanks to much superficial reporting since then, a first-time visitor might well expect to find a hot-blooded, rowdy continent – packed with much to see and do, but daunting and possibly even dangerous.
Stow away the stereotypes, cast aside the clichés, take some sensible precautions, and above all, take your time.
If you really try, you could zip around most of South America's highlights in little more than two weeks. There are plenty of tours to the Galapagos, Machu Picchu, Iguazu Falls, maybe a quick stop in the Atacama or the Amazon, and back home in time (almost) for dinner. These whistle-stop itineraries do a deep disservice to the continent, its people, and the visitor.
Yes, any trip will almost certainly include a visit to one or more of South America’s famous landmarks. You will have a wonderful time, but expect crowds and a largely sanitised experience (pro tip: those marketing slogans about "discovering" a deserted Machu Picchu are criminally misleading!).
But try not to let the tourist attraction define the country. You're not “doing” Machu Picchu, you're visiting Peru, and the same applies across the 12 (or 13, depending how you're counting) countries of the continent, each with its own identity, history, and culture.
Sitting for 30 minutes at a fruit stall in a busy market will teach you more than two weeks spent looking through the windows of a tour bus. And if you have a smattering of Spanish you'll unlock a whole new dimension.
So our advice is: slow down. Visit the honeytraps (after all, they're popular for a reason), but save time for the cities, the alternative ruins and the quieter reaches of the Andes and the Amazon.
For Bolívar, South America was ungovernable. You’ll find it unforgettable.
Hidden gems in South America
The Galapagos Islands
Luxury catamarans
AccommodationLots of luxury catamarans have joined the market in recent years, and to be honest I find it hard to recommend one above the others because they’re all truly magnificent ships offering unparalleled experiences. Three of the best are the M/C Hermes, M/C Sirius and M/C Petrel. They all offer luxury amenities, spacious decks with large cabins and social areas, outstanding guides, superb service and food. Of course, these cruises also come with the price tag of any luxury tour. The official "rack" rate for a 7-night cruise on these luxury catamarans is about $11,000 per person. If you want to cruise the Galapagos Islands on a luxury catamaran, contact a travel agent and check if there are any special deals first. It is also important to check the specific itinerary of the cruise for your travel date. If you’re spending this much on a luxury cruise, make sure that you also get the best of the islands according to your interests.
Read moreThe Galapagos Islands
M/V La Pinta
AccommodationWith a capacity for up to 48 guests, the luxury class motor yacht La Pinta is significantly larger than most Galapagos ships. La Pinta is an all-suite ship with 24 beautiful cabins featuring floor-to-ceiling windows and luxury amenities. The many social areas include a fitness room and a large sun deck with a jacuzzi tub. There is also a small infirmary with an on-board physician. The ship offers alternative activities like glass-bottom boats, kayaks and stand-up paddleboards. They have a special kids programme for 7-12 year olds.
Read moreThe Galapagos Islands
M/Y Infinity
AccommodationThe Infinity is a typical Galapagos luxury class motor yacht with all the usual bells and whistles in this category: spacious decks including a sun deck with a jacuzzi and hot tub, and large comfortable cabins with luxury amenities. There are two bonuses that make me recommend the Infinity over other luxury yachts. Firstly, it has space for 20 passengers and if there are more than 16 passengers on board, you’ll be divided into two groups each with your own guide which gives you a much more intimate and close experience. Secondly, the Infinity offers a seven night itinerary B which is one of the most diverse itineraries available, including visits to both the younger western islands and some completely different older islands in the east. Not many itineraries combine both in one cruise.
Read moreThe Galapagos Islands
M/V Galapagos Legend
AccommodationThe Legend is a 100-passenger first-class cruise ship. It’s one of the largest ships in the Galapagos and is significantly larger than the other yachts I normally recommend (but still far from a monster cruise liner.) I mostly recommend the Legend for families because of the many social areas, a wide range of cabin options, and a great range of kid and family-friendly activities, including glass bottom boats for non-snorkelers. But what I like most about the Legend is that you can book one of the great value standard or standard plus cabins but enjoy the same first class service on board. A ship this size has loads of different social areas, including a kids' playroom, large outdoor areas with a swimming pool and two hot tubs, a small gym and a souvenir shop. Excursions and landings are organised in small groups of 16 travellers per guide, with groups organised by nationality and language. There are English, Spanish, French and German-speaking naturalist guides on board. The Legend is one of few Galapagos cruises that accepts babies on board and always has a physician on board.
Read moreThe Galapagos Islands
M/Y Beluga
AccommodationBuilt in the 60s (but renovated many times since!) the Beluga is not as modern as the other first class ships but I like its aesthetic and homely atmosphere, with traditional wooden details and great service on board. The Beluga is a typical first class motor yacht with eight good cabins with space for up to 16 passengers. At this price point the main benefit is extra space in the cabins, dining and communal areas. The only downside for me is that only three cabins have large windows, so you’ll need to book in advance if you want to guarantee a good view. The Beluga offers some excellent five and seven night itineraries, which can be combined if you want a longer cruise.
Read moreThe Galapagos Islands
M/C Anahi
AccommodationI always get good feedback from passengers on the Anahi, a great value first class catamaran. Due to their design, catamarans are generally more stable than yachts, making them a good option if you’re worried about seasickness. The Anahi isn’t as modern or big as the new luxury catamarans but the ship has been cruising the Galapagos Islands for many years, it’s well maintained and regularly renovated. The operations run smoothly, the crews are very experienced and the guides are very knowledgeable. And the Anahi's bonus: there is a jacuzzi hot tub on the upper deck.
Read moreThe Galapagos Islands
M/Y Bonita
AccommodationThe Bonita is another former first class cruise that I’ve now relegated to tourist superior class, giving it great value for money. This is a lovely yacht with ten comfortable cabins and space for 16 passengers, spacious social areas and free internet access. The Bonita yacht has convenient official "rack" rates and sometimes special discounts or offers including the flight ticket even months ahead of departures. There are no extra charges for upper deck cabins and rooms are distributed in a "first come first serve" manner. Because of this flexibility, I often recommend the Bonita to travellers who want to book their cruise well ahead of time without breaking the bank. I find the six night itinerary A to the western islands is a great option for visitors who want to explore this region in depth but can't afford a seven night cruise.
Read moreThe Galapagos Islands
M/Y Monserrat
AccommodationUntil recently I would have described the Monserrat as a first class cruise, but as newer and fancier first class yachts have joined the market, I now prefer to sell the Monserrat as a tourist superior class option. Therefore it’s an excellent value, high quality cruise in this price bracket, and one I often recommend. The Monserrat has 12 comfortable cabins for up to 20 passengers, good on-board service, and even free wifi. It offers a great selection of itineraries, ranging from a whopping 15 day cruise to all the islands, down to some good short (three and four night) itineraries which can be combined together to visit both the western and eastern islands.
Read moreThe Galapagos Islands
M/Y Golondrina
AccommodationThe Golondrina is an economy / tourist class yacht, and the one I usually recommend for more budget-conscious visitors. Cheaper cruises usually cut costs with shorter itineraries to the inner islands: the Golondrina is the only budget option with itineraries to the outer islands. The four night itinerary B to all the key points on the western islands is especially popular. The yacht is designed in the traditional style. It’s small and basic, but has everything you’d need: AC, private bathrooms, a bar, and good meals freshly prepared by the on-board chef. It carries just 16 passengers, so you’ll get to know your fellow passengers, and operations and guides are usually pretty good. For those who care about tourism income staying in the local country, the Golondrina is owned and operated by the Ecuadorean-based company, Tierra Verde.
Read moreCordillera Blanca
Llanganuco Lakes day hike
ExperienceIf you fancy a day of less strenuous walking, the Llanganuco Lakes hike may be a good option. I usually recommend it as an acclimatisation hike prior to a longer trek. The vehicle does the hard work, dropping you at Portachuelo Pass (4,780 m / 15,682 ft) where you have magnificent views of the high peaks of the Cordillera Blanca, such as Huandoy, Huascaran, Chopicalqui and Chacraraju. From here you descend the way you have come, into the Llanganuco Valley, past Lakes Orconcocha and Chinancocha, and onto Maria Josefa Trail. This trail takes its name from a local legend: the María Josefa in question was a beautiful local girl who caught the eye of a rich landowner. She rejected his repeated advances, and finally decided to run away over the Cordillera Blanca, where he couldn’t find her. Unfortunately, as she was making her escape, the landowner caught up with her at Llanganuco Lakes. Once again she turned him down, and in a fit of rage, he stabbed her and left her to die. A heartwarming story of gender violence.
Read moreCordillera Blanca
Laguna 69 day hike
ExperienceLocated in Huascaran National Park, the Laguna 69 trailhead is a three hour bus ride from Huaraz and requires an entrance fee of S/30. While I almost always prefer hiking independently, for this hike a tour guide is by far the most practical and cost-effective option. Hiring a taxi would be expensive and difficult to arrange for the return trip to the city. Tours usually cost around S/60 per person, depart at 4 am and return to Huaraz around 6 pm.
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Laguna Aguak day hike
ExperienceLaguna Aguak is a challenging rocky ascent to yet another turquoise alpine lake. The trek has a well established footpath and is easy to follow throughout the entire duration. The first two kilometres of the hike is quite easy with a very gentle incline over grass hills. However, with over 1,100 metres of elevation gain in under 12 kilometres, the trek quickly transitions to steep rocky switchbacks. This was one of the most unfrequented treks in Huaraz I completed, as I only saw two other hikers and two older women herding their sheep through the first portion of the trek. Unfortunately, I had to turn back within 11 kilometres of the glacier due to a thunderstorm. With wishful thinking, I continued to push for the laguna under thunder and rain, hoping to get a glimpse and quickly descend before the storm became too strong. But predictably, the lightning migrated directly overhead and the rain turned to hail and continuing would have been reckless. Need to know Located in the Huascaran National Park, Lagua Aguak has an entrance fee of 30/S and is about 30 minutes from the city centre by combi or taxi. Transportation details by combi are the same as mentioned in Laguna Llaca and Laguna Radian. At the very beginning of the trail, you will pass a few residences along a dirt road before the terrain becomes more expansive and the trail more solitary. However, it’s important to be cautious of the dogs here. Most locals allow their dogs to roam freely, and therefore they can be territorial of sections of public road near their residence. On these roads in particular, I encountered several very aggressive dogs and contemplated turning back before even reaching the trailhead. Luckily, I was able to find an alternative route to the trailhead to avoid passing near them. On the way back to the combi stop, nervous to walk through the same neighbourhood, I asked if I could walk along with a few locals I saw passing and felt much safer.
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Llanganuco Lakes day hike
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Laguna 69 day hike
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Laguna Aguak day hike
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Laguna Radian day hike
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Wilcacocha Lake day hike
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Laguna Llaca day hike
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Nevado Mateo glacier hike
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Pastoruri Glacier day hike
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Nevado Chopicalqui Summit
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Nevado Tocllaraju Summit ascent
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Nevado Pisco Summit ascent
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Pisco Base Camp trek
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Ancascocha trek
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Cachiqata trek (Quarry Trail)
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Laguna de los Cóndores trek
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Gocta Waterfall hike
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Ubinas trek
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Picchu Picchu trek
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Misti Volcano trek
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Chachani Volcano trek
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Olleros-Chavín trek
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Cójup trek
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Alpamayo trek
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Ojos del Salado trek
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Huchuy Picchu
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Machu Picchu Mountain day hike
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Vilcabamba-Lares trek
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Choquequirao to Vilcabamba trek
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Choquequirao to Machu Picchu trek
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The Huayhuash Circuit
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Mirador Las Torres day hike
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Torres del Paine W trek
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Gran Vilaya trek
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Santa Cruz trek
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Colca Canyon trek
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Qhapac Ñan trek
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KM 104
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The Inca Trail
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Torres del Paine Full Circuit
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Inca Bridge hike
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Explore the Pantanal on the Transpantaneira Highway
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Huayna Picchu day hike
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Choquequirao trek
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Birdwatching in Manú National Park
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