• Difficulty: Mild
• Duration: Approx. two hours hiking (10 hours including travel to/from Cusco)
• Max elevation: 4,900m

You may have heard of Vinicunca, Peru's ‘rainbow mountain’ made famous as a popular – and often crowded – day trip from Cusco. What most people don’t know is that there are actually several rainbow mountains in the Vilcanota range, of which my favourite to visit is Palcoyo Rainbow Mountain.

Palcoyo is a quieter, less-showy alternative to Vinicunca, with multiple rainbow-striped peaks instead of Vinicunca’s single summit. The colours of Palcoyo are less vibrant than Vinicunca, and don’t make quite such an ‘Instagrammable’ shot – personally I think this is a good thing, as it has kept Palcoyo a much more peaceful place to visit. Having done both hikes, I find Palcoyo to be the more rewarding choice for seeing Peru’s colourful mountains without a demanding climb.

Starting early in Cusco, a scenic three-and-a-half-hour drive takes you through high-altitude Andean landscapes, passing herds of llamas and alpacas, with a stop at the colonial-style village of Checacupe along the way. The drive itself is part of the adventure, with stunning scenery to take in and with breakfast included, you’re fueled up for the trail ahead.

The hike itself is a gradual ascent, beginning with a 25-minute walk to the first viewpoint. The high altitude naturally slows the pace, but I found the route steady and manageable. A cobblestoned path leads to the second viewpoint, where three rainbow mountains come into view. Another 20 minutes leads to the Stone Forest at 4,900m, a rugged area of rock formations that offers a sweeping panorama of all three surrounding mountains.

The landscape holds more than just colourful mountains – a red river flows through the valley, and the distinct terrain of the red valley adds to the scenery. This is an active farming area, with alpacas grazing in the distance. Unlike the crowded trails of Vinicunca, Palcoyo remains largely untouched, and I found it to be a much more peaceful experience.

The weather in the Andes is unpredictable, so layers, sun protection, and a refillable water bottle are essential. Coca leaves can help with altitude, and I’d highly recommend spending a few days acclimatising in Cusco beforehand. Although the journey is long, Palcoyo is a quieter, less strenuous alternative to Vinicunca for those with a free day in Cusco.