• Difficulty: Strenuous
• Distance: Four km
• Duration: Four days
• Max elevation: 6,120 m
• Start/end point: Collon Village
• Accommodation: Camping

An iconic pyramid summit capped by a massive ice mushroom, Nevado Tocllaraju is one of the most famous peaks in the Cordillera Blanca. Located in the Ishinca valley, the Tocllaraju summit ascent via the Northwest Ridge is a classic mountaineering expedition that requires prior experience in moderately technical climbing, repelling, navigating around crevasses, and ascending exposed ice slopes of 50 to 70 degrees.

The summit offers spectacular panoramic views of other snow caps including, Aquilpo, Palcarajui, Vallunaraju, and Huamash to name a few.

Starting in Collon Village, the trek begins with a gentle incline through the Quebrada Ishinca valley to Ishinca Base Camp, situated at 4,390 metres. The following day, a short and strenuous trek hour trek along a steep moraine ridge takes you to high camp, situated at 5,000 metres. A rigorous day awaits as you begin the summit attempt. While the lower glacier has a mild incline, be cautious of crevasses as you will most likely need to cross a bergschrund (deep crevasse) to reach the ridge. The majority of the ridge is a humbling, steady slog of 55 degrees, requiring two technical, bergschrund crossings at the base of the ice mushroom, and a final push on a 70 degree incline to the summit pyramid. Triumphant and high on altitude, the descent consists of two the three rappels and exposed downclimbing to reach the lower glacier below the ridge. If you’re returning to base camp, the entire day takes about 10 to 12 hours.

Need to know

Note that in some years the bergschrunds have been un-passable, forcing many guided parties to turn around or find an alternate, elongated route. Be aware that fierce winds often follow the sunrise in the Cordillera Blanca, making the final summit push along steep and faceted snow even more precarious and difficult. As with any ascent in the high mountains, it is imperative that you are well acclimated and physically fit.