Bradley is a travel journalist and guidebook author specialising in trekking in Central Asia, Nepal, Bhutan and elsewhere in Asia. He writes for Lonely Planet, Odyssey Guides, Insight Guides, among others.
Best trek for: Expedition style camping
Difficulty: Moderate
Duration: Five to six days
Max elevation: 4,050m
Accommodation: camping
Start/end point: Tatopani/Sandhi Kharka
New trek routes always get my pulse racing, especially when they follow in the footsteps of a famous old expedition route. This particular trek follows the expedition route of Maurice Herzog’s epic 1950 ascent of Annapurna I (8,091m), the first ever ascent of an 8,000m peak, and it takes you up to an amazing mountain amphitheatre ringed with 7,000m peaks.
Unlike the busy base camps of the popular Annapurna Sanctuary trek, this ‘alternative’ Annapurna Base Camp trek is a true hidden gem that sees only a trickle of well-informed trekkers, largely because you need to camp and be self-sufficient. There are no lodges here and definitely no apple pie.
The trek starts at Tatopani, veering off the Annapurna Circuit to make a dramatic, sphincter-tightening jeep ride up the wild, sheer-sided gorge of the Mristi Khola. The walking starts at the hydroelectric plant at Hum Khola Dovan (2,880m), with overnights at Sandhi Kharka and Bhusket Mela (3,550m), until you finally set up camp in the astounding glacial basin of Narchang Lake (4,050m). This secret spot, surrounded by Annapurna I, Fang, Tilicho and Nilgiri peaks and walled off by the Great Barrier of the Annapurnas, is a classic mountain cul-de-sac, surrounded by glaciers, waterfalls and vertical rock walls.
The opportunities for day hikes here are fabulous, with faint trails leading to Annapurna North Base Camp, Advanced Base Camp and Nilgiri Base Camp via some epic glacier viewpoints. Bring a copy of Maurice Herzog’s classic 1951 Annapurna, and spend the evenings reading his account of the groundbreaking ascent and even more harrowing descent. It’s a day’s walk back to Sandhi Kharka and then half a day to meet your jeep and make the wild ride back.
At a glance
Destinations
Annapurna Region
Activity
Adventure, Hiking & Trekking, Active, WalkingPhysical Level
Moderate
Duration
5 days
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I clearly remember the day, thirty years ago, when walking down the street during my first visit to Kathmandu, the capital of Nepal, I looked up at the clouds towering above the northern end of the city and it suddenly hit me that they weren’t clouds at all but were the snow-capped peaks of the mighty Himalaya. A week later, and after three long days of walking, I stood within a giant amphitheatre of rock and ice, totally enveloped by those same mountains.

The best Annapurna treks

For lots of visitors, trekking in Annapurna = trekking in Nepal, in particular the two blockbuster treks: the Annapurna Sanctuary and the Annapurna Circuit trek.

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Annapurna North Base Camp
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