Sahara Desert
Rocky desert stretches down through long-dry river valleys scattered with crumbling earthen kasbahs, through ancient oasis towns and lush palm groves, to the wind-sculpted sands of the Sahara, one of the most beguiling places I’ve ever visited and one of the few places you can truly disconnect.
These are the routes of age-old caravans when hundreds of people and thousands of camels spent months oasis-hopping as they transported gold, salt and slaves from sub-Saharan Africa, across the desert to Marrakech and Fez, leaving behind a desert-crossroads culture.
Few visitors to Morocco make it this far, and those that do tend to opt for one or two nights in a desert campsite. But, if you have the time and inclination for something more adventurous, I can highly recommend the overnight wild camping camel treks led by Amazigh (Berber) guides. You’ll trek by camel and on foot over sky-high dunes, across hamada (lunar-like stony plateaus) and among desert scrub to Erg Chigaga, or the even more remote Erg Zahar, like the nomadic tribes of old.
Hidden gems in Sahara Desert
Sahara Desert
Trekking in Iriqui National Park
ExperienceOne of my favourite trekking destinations in the Sahara is the vast Iriqui National Park, the only national park in the Moroccan Sahara. The park was established 30 years ago but is not well publicised or well known to visitors, making it a real hidden gem. My preferred route is a four day hike from Mhamid following the Draa Valley via the dune regions of Erg Zahar, Erg Sedrar and Erg Chigaga before reaching Iriqui. Wild mobile camps means we can set up away from the crowds, and you can either trek by foot or by camel. You might be surprised by the amount of wildlife in Iriqui, although it is elusive and often nocturnal. Some desert species, such as the addax anteolope, have been reintroduced, while others appear to be increasing in numbers, such as the endangered Dorcas gazelle. It's also a great place for bird watching, depending on the time of year.
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Erg Chebbi trek
ExperienceFor people who are short on time, or don't want to do too much trekking, I usually recommend the Erg Chebbi trek. From Merzouga it only takes two hours by camel (slightly longer if you prefer to hike). My advise is to set out late in the afternoon so we can catch a stunning sunset from atop the dunes. You can do it as a day trip, but nothing beats camping out under the stars! This is a popular trek so you'll see plenty of other tourists here. If you want to go further afield I'd suggest trekking to Erg Chigaga instead.
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Erg Zahar trek
ExperienceAnother intrepid trek I can recommend is to Erg Zahar. Dubbed the ‘screaming dunes’ after a grisly local legend, they’re even more remote than Erg Chigaga. It’s a four-day trek on foot with wild camping around a variety of desert landscapes. The circular route to the rolling dunes starts from M’hamid, following the Draa River, passing through a lush palm oasis dotted with crumbling mud-brick buildings, crossing stony hamada and the river bed, where there’s a surprising variety of desert vegetation, thanks to an underground water source.
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Erg Chigaga trek
ExperienceIf you’re looking for something a bit more adventurous than a basic overnight desert camp, I can highly recommend trekking on foot – your luggage and supplies travel by camel – to the Erg Chigaga dunes. Itineraries vary depending on the operator, but it’s typically three or four days with at least one night wild camping at the dunes themselves. Good operators make the camps a surprisingly comfortable and well-catered experience. The standard route starts at M’hamid and follows the course of the now-dry Draa River, the longest in Morocco, passing abandoned settlements and on to the famous Erg Chigaga dunes themselves. Most itineraries return to M’hamid by 4x4 rather than trekking all the way back again!
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Erg Zahar trek
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Erg Chigaga trek
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