France
Europe's cultural capital
The entente is always cordiale in France – the country which can seem so familiar that there’s a danger of taking its many charms for granted.
This has long been the biggest tourist destination on earth, and they don’t call it La Belle France for nothing. The near mythical (and sometimes overblown) romance of Paris. The historic towns and villages, the lovely countryside, the lakes and coast, Europe’s highest mountains – they are all there, just waiting to be lapped up and wallowed in by romantics and adventurers of all ages.
Well over 50% of visitors to France head either to Paris or the Alps, and you can't fault them for that. But in your haste don’t overlook the dazzling Mediterranean coast where beautiful people flaunt their tans, and, sometimes, much else, and the provincial cities which drip with charm and history, laden with the world’s finest art and architecture, each one deserving a guide book all to itself.
Yes, it’s beautiful; yes, the food and drink is wonderful; yes, the welcome you’ll get will be (mostly) delightful. Your only problem will be deciding what to do first.
Vive La France!
Hidden gems in France
The Rhône
The Rhône & Saône
With its countless vineyards, stately chateaux and a landscape that has inspired myriad artists throughout the centuries, the Rhône and Saône river region of France is one of the world’s most sought-after river cruising destinations. The names of the historical French regions that make up the Rhône Basin inspire pure romance: Provence, Burgundy, Auvergne, Rhône-Alps and Languedoc-Roussillon. Here, you find yourself following the footsteps of Van Gogh, Cézanne and Gauguin, inspired by natural beauty and fortified by some of the world’s most incomparable wine and cuisine. Along the way, numerous UNESCO World Heritage Sites vie for attention, from Avignon to Lyon. Perhaps the most alluring part of a Rhône and Saône river cruise for lovers of good wine is the tremendous winemaking traditions that define this area of Europe. Cruises in the area are sure to include unique experiences: learning about the art of winemaking at the Georges Duboeuf wine village, private wine tastings in Beaujolais and Châteauneuf-du-Pape, wine and cheese tasting in Valance, sampling baked goods and chocolate goodies in Chalon-sur-Saône. It’s certainly a trip to spur an appetite and truly what cruising the Rhône Valley is all about!
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Dordogne
The Dordogne
The serene Dordogne idles its way through rural southwestern France, passing intricate chateaux, forests and beautiful gardens, some of the country’s prettiest villages and medieval towns. The Dordogne flows for 300 miles in the southwest region of France and is considered part of the Aquitaine area. Gentle hills – never overly high or steep – flank the river on both sides, with the highest point being Saint Pierre de Frugie at 479 meters. Much of the land – some 100,000 hectares – is devoted to wine-growing, with acreage farther from the river mainly devoted to poultry farming. Personal highlights are not just the obvious Bordeaux but also La Roque-Gageac, the “cutest town in France,” and historical Beynac and Périgueux.
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The Seine
The Seine
With Paris as its highlight, the Seine is made for romantics who seek the serene pleasures of river cruising with the in-depth exploration of the country that this – France’s second-largest river – provides. An inspiration for French impressionism, a setting for world wars and a boon for history lovers, the river is also replete with opportunities to indulge in the country’s fine wine and cuisine. Extending for more than 480 miles, the Seine originates in wine-producing Burgundy near Dijon and meanders its way lazily through Paris and Normandy to Le Havre, where it joins the English Channel. My personal highlights on a Seine river cruise include Paris (obvious), the clifftop village of Les Andelys, two-thousand-year-old Rouen, the lovely coastal town of Honfleur, and solemn visits to the Normandy beaches.
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Alpes-Côte d'Azur
Visit the vineyard of Val d'Iris
Located near Seillans, Val d’Iris owes its name to an ancient iris plantation for the Grasse perfumery. My family and I have been buying wine directly from this vineyard for years. Not only do they produce exceptional quality wine, but the people behind it are wonderful as well. The vineyard is run by a small team, and their wines are very reasonably priced – especially given the high quality and their commitment to sustainable production practices. Today, the vineyard spans 8.5 hectares, with excellent soil that is both stony and clayey. This unusual property is ideal for wine production as it allows the vines to soak up warmth, ensuring the grapes ripen perfectly, while also retaining enough water to withstand the long, dry Mediterranean summers. Val d'Iris follows sustainable practices, which means no weedkillers or insecticides are used. The soil is carefully maintained using mechanical methods, minimising disturbance. If you look closely, you might spot locusts, grasshoppers, praying mantises, and ladybirds thriving among the vines. Every decision in the vineyard is carefully considered from a sustainability perspective and the vineyard takes care to use products that are safe for both the micro-fauna and human health, avoiding any that pose carcinogenic risks. They also precisely calculate the lowest effective doses for treatments and adjust their equipment to ensure the most efficient and responsible use. Transparency is key at Val d'Iris, with every step of the process, from vineyard to cellar, being meticulously recorded. Consumers can trace the entire history of each bottle, including details about the grapes, cultivation methods, harvest dates, production processes, and even specifics like temperatures, yeasts, and ageing techniques. Harvesting at Val d'Iris is a careful and deliberate process. A team of about 12 pickers works the vineyard, but rather than harvesting all at once, they wait for each plot to reach its peak ripeness. This means the harvest is spread over nearly a month, ensuring that every grape is picked at its prime. All the grapes are hand-picked and transferred into harvest buckets, which are then carefully loaded into boxes on a tractor trailer. Within minutes, the tractor is driven to the cellar, where the grapes are unloaded by hand into the de-stemmer, separating the grapes from the stalks. And thus begins the meticulous winemaking process in the cellar. Visiting Val d'Iris Wine tasting at the vineyard is free, and they offer a small but carefully curated selection. The vineyard is open for visitors without appointment from 10am to 6pm Monday to Friday and 11am to 5pm Saturday. It's closed on Sunday. It's a five minute drive from Seillans, or you can walk there in less than an hour. Most of their wines are reds, with about five types to choose from, along with two whites and one rosé. The whites are distinctly different—one has a deep, intriguing flavour, while the other is much lighter. Their red wines tend to be full-bodied and spicy, but they've recently introduced a new summer red, designed to be enjoyed chilled. It’s light, fruity, and perfect for hot days—I can personally vouch for how delicious it is chilled! You’re welcome to explore the vineyards at your own pace, either before or after the tasting. When I last visited, we decided to walk around after the tasting, but with the summer sun blazing down on us, it might not have been the wisest choice! The vineyard is also home to some friendly cats and dogs, who are always happy to greet visitors.
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Alpes-Maritimes
Gorges du Blavet day hike
This trail was one of the first hiking spots I discovered in the region. It’s located just south of our local village, Seillans, where the landscapes much more of a typical Provençal feel with an abundance of fresh thyme wafting through the air, countless streams of vineyards stretching along side the roads and up and down the rolling hills. The Blavet, a small river that flows through the hills of the Var, has carved its way through striking red volcanic rock formations. Over time, the water has shaped the landscape into something truly unique. Rich in iron, the cliffs, composed of volcanic porphyry-oxidize and take on a beautiful golden-red hue. Their jagged edges rise into the sky, changing colours with the hours of the day and the seasons. Sculpted slowly by water and wind, the rocks have formed strange and beautiful shapes. The surrounding vegetation, a mix of bushes and forest, blankets the valley floor, climbing the slopes, and clinging to the cliffs. The greenery comes in various shades, from light to dark, creating a rich contrast against the ever-present blue sky. From certain vantage points along the trail, you can even catch glimpses of the Mediterranean Sea. The hike begins with a walk through a forest, following the river, which leads to the striking red rock formations. Along the way, you’ll pass the 'Grotte du Mueron,’ a cave inhabited during the Bronze Age. With its large entrance and remarkably high ceiling, the cave holds traces of our ancestors dating back to 12,000 BC. Shortly after the cave, you’ll encounter a brief but steep climb to your first viewpoint, offering sweeping views of the surrounding landscape and the Mediterranean Sea. After crossing a road, the trail continues through the quiet hills and forests of this peaceful region. A couple of hours in, you’ll reach a stunning viewpoint, an ideal spot to enjoy a snack or packed lunch while taking in the medieval hilltop villages in the distance. After lunch and soaking in the scenery, the route back tracks briefly before winding down along a trail that leads back to the car park. Need to know There are a few routes you can take from the trailhead. Here, you'll find an information board with the hikes labelled by difficulty level. This route is well marked and there is a map outlining the route in the car park. This hike is easily accessible by car. There is a car park with picnic benches and normally plenty of room to park you vehicle. I recommend wearing hiking shoes or boots, and bringing hiking poles for the steeper sections if that makes you feel more comfortable. Be sure to pack a windproof or waterproof jacket, it is highly unlikely it will rain and it may even feel quite warm in the middle of winter in the sunshine, but its better to be well prepared. Carry enough water, at least 2.5 litres in the summer months. This hike is accessible all year round. Be aware that if rainfall has been heavy in the region, especially towards the end of winter, the river can be quite full and might require you to cross on rocks or in the water itself. I find this quite fun, but please be careful as rocks can be slippery.
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Alpes-Maritimes
Bauroux Mountain day hike (Crêtes du Bauroux)
I absolutely love this mountain ridge hike. Located in the Parc des Préalpes d'Azur, the hike begins in the village of Séranon, right on the border between the Var and the Alpes Maritimes. This hiking trail offers stunning views of the surrounding mountains and landscapes, and follows the famous RD 6085, or “route Napoléon,” named after the emperor, who stopped at the Château de Brondet in 1815. Heading west along the foot of the mountain and as you start your climb, you’ll reach Vieux-Séranon, where the ruins of a 12th-13th century fortified village are still visible. Take a quick left at this stage to climb up to a viewpoint with a detailed information stand about the wildlife, surrounding areas and Vieux-Séranon. The trail then leads through the woods on the northern slope, eventually taking you to the summit of Bauroux (1,644 meters). The 360° panoramic view from here is absolutely breathtaking, with sweeping views of the surrounding mountains and valleys. It’s the perfect spot to take a break, enjoy a packed lunch/snack, and breathe in the fresh mountain air. After lunch, you’ll descend along the eastern side of the ridge. The trail takes you to the quaint village of Caille, where I always enjoy pausing to appreciate the local charm and tranquility. Need to know This hike, along with others in the region, is easily accessible by car. After the hike, there are some fantastic authentic countryside restaurants to enjoy, but be prepared for limited vegetarian options. Though you might get a scowl at first, I’m sure they’ll accommodate your request! This region is home to many farmers and producers of honey, goat’s cheese, and of course, meat! This route is well signposted and there is a map outlining the route in the car park which you’ll find right next to the roundabout. Near the start of the trail, there’s a small storage cabinet where local producers sell honey. It operates on a trust-based exchange, so do bring some cash in case you’d like to buy some. While there are a few steep sections, they’re very manageable. I completed this hike with my 71-year-old mother, and we made excellent time! That said, she’s incredibly fit for her age. I recommend wearing hiking shoes or boots, and bringing hiking poles for the steeper sections if that makes you feel more comfortable. Be sure to pack a windproof or waterproof jacket, as the weather in the mountains can change quickly. During the hotter months, be sure to carry enough water, 2.5 litres at least. I’d avoid this hike between December and March, as snowfall can make it dangerous without the right gear.
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Europe
Cami dels Bons Homes (GR107)
During the 12th-14th centuries a religious group that rejected wealth and led a simple life gained a significant number of followers in Southern France. The Cathars, who referred to themselves as ‘good Christians’ (or ‘good men’), were not just tolerated but even supported by some nobles in the Languedoc area and by 1209, the Catholic church felt so threatened by the movement that the pope declared a crusade against the heretics. Thousands upon thousands were killed but many managed to flee France and cross the Pyrenees to seek refuge in Spain. The GR107 or Cami dels Bons Homes trail follows the route believed to have been taken by the Cathars fleeing France. As you can expect from a well maintained GR (Grande Randonnée or Gran Recorrido) route, it is well signposted with trusty red and white stripes. It can be completed in less than a fortnight and, while it is less demanding than the other long-distance walks that traverse the entire length of the Pyrenees, there is no shortage of stunning mountain scenery. I spent the nights in auberges where I was well fed with delicious food and all of my hosts claimed to live in the most beautiful part of the trail. The route You can walk the trail in either direction but I prefer to start the trek from Foix and walk across the Pyrenees just like the Cathars did. The first few days slowly ease you into walking, but I recommend that you save some energy to climb up to the ruins of Roquefixade castle at the end of the first and the ruins of Montségur castle at the end of the second day of the trek. If I had to pick a favourite section it would be the breathtakingly stunning middle section of the trail. If you want to enjoy the best mountain scenery but you can only spend two or three days on this trail, I suggest starting from Mérens-les-Vals and walking to Bellver de Cerdanya. This is the highest part of the entire trail which also happens to be the most demanding and stunning section. You can download a route card from camidelsbonshomes.com to collect stamps at the guesthouses and receive a certificate of completion of the trek. Need to know You can reach Foix from Toulouse by train (approximately one hour) and at the end of your trek in Berga you can take a bus to Barcelona (approximately two hours). Toulouse and Barcelona are both well connected with other European cities. The best time to walk the trail is between May and October, but July and Aug are the busiest months in the mountains. During the first few days the trail passes through some hamlets, but don’t expect bakeries and snack bars; on the French side of the trail you will hardly ever encounter a place where you can buy food. That doesn’t mean you have to go hungry, you can buy packed lunches from the auberges and gites where you stay. You don’t have to carry your camping gear, as it is possible to spend every night in a gite or family run guesthouse, where you will be treated with delicious local food. Fortunately you won’t have to worry about the high calorie intake in the evenings as you will certainly burn them off the next day. Once you’re in Catalonia you will be passing through towns with wider accommodation choices but if you’re walking in July or August it is best to book ahead. Take a sleeping bag and towel as it might not be provided at some gîtes and refuges. The weather can be variable in the Pyrenees and it is essential to have a waterproof jacket and warm fleece even in the summer months. Official website: www.camidelsbonshomes
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Europe
Pyrenean Haute Route
ExperienceThe Pyrenean Haute Route, often abbreviated as HRP, is a high mountain trail that crisscrosses the French-Spanish border. Unlike its counterparts, the GR10 and GR11, the HRP tends to stay closer to the mountain crest, offering a more challenging, verging on technical, trek. Scenery switches from sweeping valleys to towering peaks as the route winds through the Aigüestortes and Ordesa & Monte Perdido National Parks. The HRP is much less popular than the other Pyrenean routes. Its remoteness and challenging terrain demands a high degree of self-sufficiency and mountaineering experience. Ideal hiking months are from June to September. However, due to its high-altitude route, unpredictable weather can occur, and snow may linger on some passes.
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French Pyrenees
Sentier des Pyrenees (GR10)
Distance: 593 miles (955 km) – or shorter segmentsDuration: Seven to eight weeksStart/end point: Hendaye to Banyuls-sur-MerDifficulty: Challenging The GR11, shadowing the Pyrenees from Atlantic to Mediterranean on the Spanish side of the range, is higher, rougher and wilder. But the French GR10 would be my pick: though busier, it’s also better endowed with accommodation and transport, and truly spectacular. Plan your hike for the transhumance season when livestock is herded to summer pastures, accompanied in places by great festivities.
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Europe
Tour Du Mont Blanc
A world-class trek through the heart of the Alps in three countries, the Tour de Mont Blanc, is a baptism for many hikers. Steeped in history, Mont Blanc has tempted mountaineers from across the globe to scale this dramatic massif and breath in its astounding vistas. The trail circumnavigates Mont Blanc (4,810m), spanning France, Italy, and Switzerland. Expect enthralling views, delicious food and an authentic Alpine experience. And the hiking is more varied than you may expect: you’ll be tackling impressive peaks, following roaring rivers and strolling through gentle valleys, sometimes all within the same day. Need to know Yes, it’s super-popular – you may well hit logjams on narrow paths up passes, and booking well in advance is essential – but, well, those views of Western Europe’s loftiest peak from all angles… It's not mandatory to hike the entire circuit. You can, for example, choose to trek the southern part of the trail over four days if time or cost is a factor. Another consideration is the short season. Like any other Alps destination, the hiking season is dictated by the length of the winter. So June could still have snow on the higher passes, and it's also possible for snow storms in September.
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Corsica
GR20
The GR20 is a beautiful 112-mile (180km) trek traversing the Mediterranean Island of Corsica from north to south. The trail is separated into 16 sections and winds along the jagged granite spine of Corsica's mountainous centre. Expect to be put through your paces – crossing rugged terrain and taking on narrow ridges. But the scenery is the perfect distraction, with jagged peaks, sparkling rivers and rustic Corsican villages all in view. Need to know The problematic, rocky northern part begins in Calenzana and ends in Vizzavona. In this section, you must tackle constant steep ascents and plunging descents. So hiking this route is not recommended for those with knee problems. In contrast, the southern segment, spanning from Vizzavona to Conca, is less demanding, though not as visually stunning as the northern section. You can choose to hike either one of the two parts or completely go for it and hike from Calenzana to Conca.
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The Rhône & Saône
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The Dordogne
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The Seine
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Visit the vineyard of Val d'Iris
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Gorges du Blavet day hike
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Bauroux Mountain day hike (Crêtes du Bauroux)
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Cami dels Bons Homes (GR107)
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Pyrenean Haute Route
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Sentier des Pyrenees (GR10)
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