It’s one thing to check out Galápagos tortoises at the islands’ research centres, but it’s another to see them in the wild. Since 97% of the islands are national parkland, you may occasionally catch sight of a tortoise placidly moving near some island road. In the highlands of Isla Santa Cruz, you can visit two ranchos where tortoises graze on tender grass and soak in the ponds but are free to roam through, unimpeded by any barriers. Guides give an informative talk and accompany visitors, who must keep a distance of two metres as with all wildlife in the Galápagos. This respectful distance still allows wonderfully close observation of the many tortoises, some of whom may be over a hundred years old. Simply hearing them exhale is strangely awesome. There’s a small fee to visit either of the two tortoise reserves, Rancho Las Primicias and El Chato Ranch, both down the same road outside the highland village of Santa Rosa.

If you visit Isla Isabela, you can rent a bike in Puerto Villamil and ride up the coastal road west out of town. The dirt road meanders past the island’s cemetery and turnoffs to beaches, lava sinkholes, and lagoons. The ride itself makes for a great day pedalling to lovely detours, but a wild tortoise sighting along the way is the jolt of joy we hope for on any trip.