East Africa Travel Guide - Horizon Guides

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In the league table of natural wonders, the eastern swathe of the African continent ranks as a global superpower.

In East Africa, where the grinding of plate tectonics has carved a unique geology and sweeping range of habitats, you'll find a land of superlatives: the biggest concentrations of the very largest land animals, the world's deepest lake, the highest mountains in Africa, the list goes on.

And it is this that cements East Africa's place as a tourism heavy hitter. From the wildebeest migration that sweeps across the grasslands of Tanzania and Kenya, the "Big Five" of the Masai Mara, and the great apes of Rwanda, Uganda and the DRC, this is a place that is virtually synonymous with safari and wildlife tourism.

Hidden gems in East Africa

Masai Mara National Reserve

Olare Motorogi Conservancy

Lucy Booth

Place

One of my favourite of all the Mara conservancies, Olare Motorogi Conservancy is tiny – just ten tents, making it ideal for those seeking a quieter, more personal encounter with the wilderness. There are five concessions here: Porini Lion Camp, Kicheche Bush Camp, Mara Plains Camp, Olare Mara Kempinski and Mahali Mzuri, all of which are excellent, although Porini Lion Camp probably gets my top vote. You'll struggle to find a quieter, less crowded safari anywhere else in Kenya.

Laikipia

Kicheche Laikipia

Lucy Booth

Accommodation

Kicheche Laikipia, with only six tents, offers an incredibly intimate experience. It’s a great spot if you’re looking for a quieter, more personal safari. The wildlife here is abundant, and what I love about this camp is the chance to see not just the big cats, but also the incredible birdlife and other species unique to the area. The camp’s location allows for both excellent game drives and walking safaris.

Laikipia

Porini Rhino Camp

Lucy Booth

Accommodation

Best for: Rhino conservation With just seven tents, Porini Rhino Camp is wonderfully intimate and it’s situated in a fantastic location for rhino sightings. The fact that it’s within the expansive 90,000-acre Laikipia Conservancy means you're surrounded by incredible wildlife but without the crowds. And their efforts for rhino conservation is especially rewarding: during my stay, I had the privilege of seeing both black and white rhinos up close, and it’s always one of those moments that sticks with you. It’s not just about the rhinos, though; there’s a great variety of wildlife here, and the camp is in the heart of it all.

Masai Mara National Reserve

Porini Lion Camp

Lucy Booth

Accommodation

Best for: Masai Mara walking safaris Porini Lion Camp, in the Olare Motorogi Conservancy, is small and delightfully intimate. With just ten tents, it feels very personal, and you really get to know the staff and the area. The camp is great for game drives and walking safaris, and I always find the chances of spotting big cats especially high here. It pairs very nicely with Saruni Basecamp during migration river crossing season – I usually recommend three nights in each.

Masai Mara National Reserve

Saruni Basecamp

Lucy Booth

Accommodation

Best for: uncrowded migration viewings Located in the Mara North Conservancy, the 17-tent Saruni Basecamp has an ideal spot right on the river with some stunning views. I can’t think of many better places to see the wildebeest migration in Kenya, and during my stay, I was blown away by how close we were to the action, with none of the crowds that mar the experience in busier corners of the Masai Mara.

Lamu Island

Manda Bay

Lucy Booth

Accommodation

Best for: a unique coastal getaway I’ve always been impressed by Manda Bay on Manda Island, even the arrival by speedboat is impressive and sets the tone for the whole stay. The resort is tucked away on a beautiful stretch of beach, offering a laid-back, calm atmosphere. The accommodation is made up of spacious, thatched cottages and beach villas. The rooms are comfortable, with private terraces, en-suite bathrooms, and views over the ocean, and there are some fun activities on offer: sailing, kayaking or taking a dhow trip around the islands.

Watamu Marine National Park

Ocean Sports Resort

Lucy Booth

Accommodation

Best for: beach lovers and water sports Ocean Sports Resort is probably my top tip for Watamu. The location is ideal, right on the beach, so you're just a few steps away from the sea and there’s some great snorkelling nearby. I’d also suggest trying paddleboarding and taking a sunset dhow cruise on Mida Creek, a peaceful mangrove-lined estuary. The best time to visit is from mid-October to April, as this is when the weather is at its best. I would avoid September, though, when seaweed tends to drift in, which can affect the beach experience. Watamu is unique in that it offers both ocean and creek experiences. I’d recommend snorkelling in the Coral Gardens for the marine life, but also make sure you take a dhow cruise for that magical moment of sailing along with the wind in the sail, sipping a sundowner as the sun sets over the creek. There’s something special about those old-style dhows that really takes you back in time.

Samburu Game Reserve

Sabache Eco Camp

Lucy Booth

Accommodation

Best for: authentic cultural experiences In my opinion, Sabache Eco Camp is probably the most interesting and authentic experience in Samburu and beyond. The camp is run by the local Samburu community with a welcoming, down-to-earth atmosphere. The tents are spacious and comfortable with en-suite bathrooms, though if the water’s not working, it’s usually because the monkeys have been tampering with the stopcocks… I’ve stayed here several times, and I always enjoy the peace. The best rooms are just above the dining area – a bit of a climb but with great views. On one of my visits, I had the incredible experience of seeing a small herd of elephants quietly moving through the camp under the cover of night. It was surreal, catching glimpses of these enormous creatures by the light of our head torches. For a real adventure, I’d recommend fly camping at the summit of Mount Ololokwe. Watching the sunrise over the Mathews Range and Mount Kenya is unforgettable. Plus, the vultures soaring past on thermal currents are a sight to behold. If you have time, visit the nearby Reteti Elephant Sanctuary. It’s a short drive from Sabache, and you can watch the Samburu team feed orphaned elephants and see how they prepare the milk formula for them.

Samburu Game Reserve

Elephant Bedroom Camp

Lucy Booth

Accommodation

Best for: wildlife enthusiasts and unique experiences I usually recommend the authentic and intimate Elephant Bedroom camp for visitors coming to Samburu. The camp is set in a perfect location, right on the Ewaso Nyiro River, with sweeping views that are hard to beat. The tented rooms are raised on stilts, which gives you an extra sense of being immersed in nature. It’s one of the few places where you can hear the sounds of elephants right outside your tent, as they often wander through or graze near the camp, and since it’s unfenced, you’re really part of the wilderness. One of my most memorable moments was when we were having lunch below the main terrace by the river and had to quickly abandon it when an inquisitive elephant came to join us. It's those kinds of moments that make this place special. Sundowners after the afternoon game drive are always a delight, as you reflect on the day while surrounded by the sounds of the bush.

Masai Mara National Reserve

Mara North Conservancy

Lucy Booth

Place

The Maasai Mara is the most iconic wildlife ecosystem in Kenya, possibly all of Africa. But my biggest tip for visiting the Mara is to stay in one of the conservancies dotted around and adjacent to the Mara. These offer a more exclusive and intimate safari experience, with fewer vehicles and a chance to see wildlife in a more peaceful setting. The Mara North Conservancy, where Saruni Basecamp is located, offers incredible river views and excellent opportunities to witness the migration.

Ol Pejeta Conservancy

Lucy Booth

Place

The Ol Pejeta Conservancy is famous for its black rhinos and as the guardian of the last northern white rhino anywhere on earth. Despite lying on the equator, its 1,900 metre elevation gives it a cooler highland climate that contrasts with the surrounding arid landscapes. I find it a wonderful complement to places like Samburu, especially if you want to see a different side of Kenya’s diverse ecosystems. The conservancy’s cooler early mornings and evenings mean you’ll want to dress in layers. One of my favourite spots there is Morani’s restaurant, named after a rhino, which offers a unique dining experience within the conservancy itself. The intimate camps Porini Rhino and Kicheche Laikipia offer wonderful opportunities to get close to rhinos and other wildlife, all while avoiding crowds.

Lamu Island

Watamu and Lamu Archipelago

Lucy Booth

Place

The Kenyan coast is a place I find truly enchanting, with its mix of beaches, turquoise waters, and vibrant cultures. Watamu is my personal favourite, it has a wonderful range of excellent restaurants and plenty of beach activities to keep you entertained: snorkelling in the Coral Gardens Marine Park, paddleboarding with dolphins or taking a dhow cruise along Mida Creek. Further north, the Lamu Archipelago, especially Manda Bay on Manda Island, stands out as a really special destination. The journey there by boat is part of the fun, and the remote feel of the area never fails to impress. The coast is best visited from mid-October to April when the weather is at its best, while I’d avoid September due to the large drifts of seaweed.