East Africa Travel Guide - Horizon Guides

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In the league table of natural wonders, the eastern swathe of the African continent ranks as a global superpower.

In East Africa, where the grinding of plate tectonics has carved a unique geology and sweeping range of habitats, you'll find a land of superlatives: the biggest concentrations of the very largest land animals, the world's deepest lake, the highest mountains in Africa, the list goes on.

And it is this that cements East Africa's place as a tourism heavy hitter. From the wildebeest migration that sweeps across the grasslands of Tanzania and Kenya, the "Big Five" of the Masai Mara, and the great apes of Rwanda, Uganda and the DRC, this is a place that is virtually synonymous with safari and wildlife tourism.

Hidden gems in East Africa

Serengeti National Park

Tanzania safari in green season

Khuzeima Zavery

Experience

The general consensus on the best times for a safari in Tanzania (or anywhere in Africa for that matter) is to avoid the rainy seasons at all costs. According to received wisdom, the rainy season means wildlife is more dispersed as they don’t have to congregate around scarce waterholes. The foliage is thick and lush which, although beautiful, makes spotting wildlife even harder. And heavy rains may make more remote roads impassable, and lots of camps shut down during the “long rains” of mid-March to early June. In Tanzania, timings are further complicated by the movement of the wildebeest migration, especially the heavily-marketed river crossing period which creates even more pressure to be on safari during the peak months of July to September. Personally, I think this is a big shame. It creates unsustainable pressure on a handful of key locations during a few short months, and it does a great disservice to the rest of the country – and the rest of the year. For visitors on a limited schedule, or perhaps those who’ve already had the ‘classic’ safari experience before, I often suggest coming during the rainy, or ‘green’ season. Contrary to the general consensus, I think this is a lovely time to be in Tanzania. This is when nature bursts back into life, fresh grass carpets the plains, rivers are ripe and waterholes are full, and wildlife thrives in the renewed ecosystem. Yes you’ll expect rain, but it doesn’t rain all day, every day. Showers are usually short-lived, and the sun often comes out shortly after. In my experience, the warnings about missing wildlife sightings during this period are exaggerated – it’s just as exciting as other seasons, if not more. This is when the southern Serengeti and Ndutu areas become nurseries for thousands of newborn wildebeest, zebra, and other herbivores. The entire wildebeest migration is set out on the Central and Southern plains, as far as your eyes can see. And with so many young and vulnerable animals, the big cats and cheetahs are all highly active. But for me, the biggest advantage of a green season safari is the solitude. Unlike the peak season, where a single kill can attract crowds of vehicles, the green season offers a more personal and exclusive experience. It is not uncommon to be the only vehicle watching a lioness teach her cubs to hunt, with no other vehicles in sight. If you’ve ever dreamed of having the Serengeti (almost) to yourself, this is the season to go. Plus, coming in an "off" season helps tackle unsustainable overcrowding such as around the river crossings during peak season. And finally, visiting in the green season offers one other big perk: value for money! Prices for lodges and camps drop by up to 50%, which means you can either get more luxury for your budget or enjoy a longer stay than you’d otherwise afford. The only thing I’d note is that although I usually recommend tented camps for a more authentic experience, during this rainy period, a permanent lodge would be more comfortable.

Saadani National Park

Best for an unusual coastal safari

Philip Briggs

Place

Another of Tanzania’s hidden gems, Saadani lies on the beautiful stretch of Indian Ocean coastline that divides the port cities of Dar es Salaam and Tanga. The palm-lined beaches here form the last remaining turtle nesting site on the country’s north coast. This is also the only East African coastal reserve where you’ll see lions, leopards, elephants, buffalo and giraffes. Wildlife densities at Saadani are admittedly rather low, so it isn't the place for first-time visitors wanting to tick all the boxes in one short safari. But the wilderness feel, the beautiful beachfront location and a wide range of activities – including boat trips on the Wami River, birdwatching in the salt flats, guided bush walks, and of course game drives – make it a great option for adventurous travelers who want to get truly off the beaten path.

Arusha National Park

Underrated Arusha

Philip Briggs

Place

It always surprises me how few visitors to northern Tanzania make the effort to visit the underrated Arusha National Park. This, as its name suggests, is the closest park to the safari gateway town of Arusha (the drive takes around 45 minutes) and it packs a huge amount of diversity into a relatively small area. Set in the shadow of Mount Meru, the park incorporates rainforests alive with colobus monkeys, tracts of savannah grazed by giraffes and zebras, spectacular calderas and waterfalls, and much more besides. While here you’ll want to take a canoe trip on the gorgeous Momella Lakes where you’ll see plenty of hippos, buffalo and flamingos.

Rubondo Island National Park

Best for a quirky Serengeti add-on

Heather Richardson

Place

One of Africa's quirkiest and most underrated protected areas, Rubondo comprises a lushly forested 240 sq km island set in the Tanzanian waters of Lake Victoria (the world’s second largest lake). The park was established in the 1960s as a proposed breeding centre for introduced Congolese rainforest animals. This experiment never really came together, but Rubondo does still support some introduced wildlife, including elephant and giraffe, alongside naturally occurring species such the swamp-loving sitatunga antelope. The island is also home to around 70 chimps descended from eight males and nine females released there in the late 1960s. After being left to their own devices for decades, Rubondo’s chimps have now been habituated for tourist visits. Home to just one small luxury beach lodge, Rubondo Island makes for an exclusive and very tranquil add-on to a safari in the ever-popular Serengeti National Park. Rubondo’s chimps are descended from individuals that were born wild in West Africa, then captured as youngsters and held in zoos or circuses. It is thus the easiest place to see the western chimpanzee, a critically endangered subspecies that is far rarer than its eastern counterpart. Although Rubondo’s chimps are almost certain to be seen by determined visitors, locating them might involve a long walk, and they are shyer than in most other trekking destinations. It is not easy for independent or budget-conscious travellers to arrange chimp trekking here.

Mkomazi National Park

Best for genuine wilderness

Heather Richardson

Place

Common wisdom when comparing Tanzania’s two main safari "circuits" is that the north attracts the crowds while the south is quieter and more remote. This is an overly simplistic equation, as anyone who has visited Mkomazi National Park, in northeastern Tanzania, will testify. Scenic Mkomazi is an ideal choice for those who value a genuine wilderness experience over non-stop wildlife viewing. On my most recent visit, I had good sightings of lion, buffalo, giraffe, zebra and a wide variety of antelope, but encountered precisely one other tourist vehicle. There is also a special rhino sanctuary here which gives you the best chance of seeing the critically endangered black rhino anywhere in Tanzania. Mkomazi is also an unusually affordable safari destination, thanks to a complex of well-priced government-run cottages at the main entrance.

Mahale Mountains National Park

For chimp trekking

Heather Richardson

Place

Mahale is a remote and mountainous park set on the sandy banks of Lake Tanganyika in the far west of Tanzania. It is best known for its habituated chimpanzees, which can be tracked on foot on guided forest walks. Other primates include red colobus and vervet monkeys. The driest months (August to October) are the best time to trek through the forest. Chimp trekking and other guided walks can be organised from a scattering of lakeshore camps and lodges. These include one ‘barefoot luxury’ option, Greystoke Mahale, as well as a government-run cluster of affordable self-catering huts.

Katavi National Park

Best for crowd-free safaris

Heather Richardson

Place

Katavi is one of Tanzania’s largest national parks but it attracts a fraction of the visitors, and feels very distant from, the likes of the Serengeti, Ngorongoro or Nyerere. And with just a handful of small camps scattered around the park, there are few other vehicles with which to contend. Indeed, it is estimated that Katavi attracts fewer visitors in an entire year than the Serengeti might get on any given day. In the dry season, Katavi offers great wildlife spotting opportunities. Buffalo herds here often comprise more than 1,000 individuals, and mind-boggling numbers of hippo can be seen concentrated in a few small pools towards the end of the dry season. Other wildlife includes elephants, lions and large herds of plains game (topi, giraffe, zebra and impala).

Ruaha National Park

Best for a wild & remote safari

Heather Richardson

Place

Wild and remote Ruaha, Tanzania's second-largest national park, is home to scattered baobabs, grasslands and rolling hills. Along with Nyerere, it is the main stop on Tanzania's southern circuit, which draws relatively few tourists compared to the country's northern hotspots. Arguably better for wildlife spotting than Nyerere (and more affordable too), Ruaha supports one the world’s largest lion populations, along with massive herds of elephants and various grazers. There are cheetahs, leopards and African wild dogs too. When it comes to accommodation, Ruaha offers a mixture of luxury lodges and basic fly-camping operations for walking safaris – the park's speciality. For self-drivers, there are simple but affordable self-catering huts at the park headquarters,

Nyerere National Park

Best for African wild dogs & canoe safaris

Heather Richardson

Place

Tanzania’s largest national park, Nyerere (formerly Selous Game Reserve) extends across almost 12,000 square miles – making it bigger than Belgium. Its most notable geographic feature is the Rufiji River, which flows throughout the year and is a major wildlife magnet in the dry season. Despite this, the drier climate means that animal densities away from the river are far lower than they are in the Serengeti, and the thick bush can make wildlife spotting more challenging. Nyerere supports large numbers of lion, elephant, giraffe, hippo and buffalo. It is also a key area for the endangered African wild dog, which is more frequently seen here than anywhere else in Tanzania. In recent years, commercial poaching has led to a massive decline in the park’s elephant population, but this still stands at more than 15,000 individuals. Nyerere feels more remote than most of the northern parks, but because its camps are concentrated in one small area north of the Rufiji (which is also visited by plenty of day safaris from Zanzibar), it can feel busier than might be expected. What really sets the park apart is the range of activities on offer. Boat safaris on the Rufiji and an associated network of lakes are a real highlight. Other special activities include walking safaris and fly-camping.

Lake Manyara National Park

Best for flamingos & birdwatching

Heather Richardson

Place

Situated a short distance northwest of Tarangire, scenic Lake Manyara National Park sits in the shadow of a dramatic stretch of the Great Rift escarpment. The park’s centrepiece is the lake for which it is named, but it also protects large areas of acacia woodland, groundwater fig forest, and grassy floodplain. Manyara is a haven for birdwatchers. At least 400 bird species have been recorded, with aquatic birds and raptors being especially well represented. The park is also famous for its tree-climbing lions, and for hosting one of Tanzania’s most-studied elephant populations. In addition to game drives, guided walking safaris are possible, and there’s a treetop walkway that takes you up into the forest canopy.

Ngorongoro Conservation Area

For compact game drives & crater views

Khuzeima Zavery

Place

The other major tourist attraction on Tanzania’s Northern Circuit is the Ngorongoro Crater. This UNESCO World Heritage Site is thought to be the world’s largest intact volcanic caldera that isn’t filled with water. Wildlife numbers fluctuate seasonally, but the crater floor is invariably home to tens of thousands of large mammals, including elephant, lion and buffalo. It is also the most reliable spot on the northern circuit for black rhino. Ngorongoro is a year-round wildlife destination, but it also attracts year-round crowds, especially from mid-morning to mid-afternoon. It stands at the centre of the much larger Ngorongoro Conservation Area, which is a great place for hiking and trekking. There are no accommodations within the crater itself and you have basically three options here: firstly the premium, high-demand lodges that are on the crater rim itself. These select few lodges have an unimpeded 270 degree view of the entire crater. With a good pair of binoculars, you can spot wildlife from your lodge or camp and most rooms have amazing views right from the bedroom. Good picks include Ngorongoro Serena, Ngorongoro Lodge Melia Collection, Crater Lodge by &Beyond, Ngorongoro Sopa Lodge. The added bonus of these camps is that you’re already within the Ngorongoro Conservation Area so you don’t need to pass through the main Loduare gate and can head straight to the nearest trail. But prices are high and availability is tight. The second category is other lodges within the NCAA but not on the crater's edge. There's a few properties there and they are a short drive to the crater. The key thing they lack is the majestic views of the crater. I recommend Lion's Paw, Rhino Lodge, Lemala Ngorongoro, Pakulala, Ngorongoro Tortilis. The third option is to stay in the nearby town of Karatu, between 15-30 mins away from Loduare gate. There’s a wide range of hotels here for pretty much every budget and since you’re outside the conservation area you don’t need to pay concession fees. In my experience, if option one is not viable then option three is the better way to go. The value of staying inside the NCAA but not on the rim is limited and does not add significantly to the experience.

Tarangire National Park

Best for elephants and baobabs

Heather Richardson

Place

Tarangire National Park, which lies to the southeast of Lake Manyara, is renowned for its large elephant herds and huge baobab trees. The park is also home to lion, leopard and cheetah, and very occasionally it may be visited by packs of endangered African wild dog. In the dry season, it has a particularly high concentration of mammals, with July to October being the best months for wildlife viewing. The main road circuit in northern Tarangire attracts large volumes of day visitors, who usually arrive mid-morning and leave mid-afternoon. This means it can be uncomfortably busy around lunchtime. Relatively few safaris stay overnight in the park, however, so the roads tend to be much quieter in the early morning and late afternoon. As with the Serengeti, some private reserves around the national park offer more exclusivity, but generally at a higher cost.