Central Asia
Magical landscapes and Silk Road cities
Sandwiched between the Middle East and China, Central Asia has earned its status as a crossroads for much of human history and civilisation.
The "Five Stans" of Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Kyrgyzstan, Turkmenistan and Tajikistan are best known as being the central artery of the ancient Silk Road trading routes that connected the ancient civilisations to the east and west.
But the region was far more than merely a connector between China and Europe, with a glittering – if brutal – history of its own; birthing sprawling empires and flourishing cultures such as the vast Timurid Empire.
Today many of the historical landmarks remain – although heavily reconstructed – in the glittering Islamic cities of Samarkand, Bukhara and Khiva. While out in the hinterlands, you'll find vast steppe and snowcapped mountains, along with the herding communities who have lived here for countless generations.
The cities meanwhile tell their own story of the Soviet era, and their attempts at reinvention since 1991 reinvention – some more successful than others.
It's not necessarily a relaxing vacation destination: if you're looking for lazy afternoons in the sun, you may want to try elsewhere. But if you seek adventure and insights into the incredible, magical, at times awful, human story, well Central Asia is a must.
Hidden gems in Central Asia
Kyrgyzstan
Trek to Merzbacher
This is a really special hike, and probably my top recommendation in all of Kyrgyzstan. It's quiet and remote (you're unlikely to see any other trekkers the entire time), and it culminates at one of the most quirky geological locations in the whole country – the so-called "disappearing" Merzbacher Lake, on the border with China and Kazakhstan. This is a seasonal glacial lake that fills with meltwater from the Inylchek Glacier each spring and drains in spectacular fashion in late summer. This phenomenon is a rare – and incredibly dramatic and noisy – only witnessed by a lucky few. You'd be exceptionally lucky to time your arrival to witness the lake draining, and the lake itself is not hugely impressive, but the surrounding landscapes make it all worthwhile. You'll be hiking four to six each day, often along rugged and challenging paths. You'll spend the night in tents, or maybe in semi-permanent yurt camps if you're booking an organised trip.
Read moreShymkent
Wander through fields of tulips in Aksu-Zhabagly
Aksu-Zhabagly Nature Reserve, in the mountains south of Shymkent, has excellent guides and a pioneering homestay programme that will see you overwhelmed with well-intentioned Kazakh cooking. The amazing fauna and flora is, however, the real reason to visit and you should try to time your trip to coincide with the blossoming of tulips. It is nothing short of a dream to see wild horses roam across the rainbow fields during April and May.
Read moreSamarkand
See Samarkand in full
No place on the long and winding Silk Road captures the imagination quite like Uzbekistan's Samarkand, the restored 14th-century city and centre of the mighty Timurid Empire. The dazzle of ceramic tiles lining the monuments is a sight to behold, inviting you to delve into the city’s long and turbulent history. How could Timur, an emperor renowned for his cruelty, be responsible for something as lovely as Samarkand? His conquests clearly paid off: by dragging skilled artisans from around Eurasia to his capital, he created an arresting architectural statement that has stood the test of time. Samarkand represents the core idea of the Silk Road: a place where east met west, mingling to create something new, and heart-stoppingly beautiful. The Registan complex of mosque and madrasahs (Islamic schools), decorated with ceramic tiles and presided over by an obviously un-Islamic lion, are at the heart of Samarkand. From here, you can branch out to the enormous Bibi Khanum mosque, or instead visit the striking Gur Emir mausoleum of Timur himself, which would inspire the Taj Mahal, built by Timur’s descendants of the Mughal dynasty. Overlooking the city sits another monument to the dead: The Shah-i-Zinda necropolis, dating from the 11th century, is an extraordinary collection of mausoleums and shrines – more than 20 buildings of stunning beauty, packed together in a relatively small space. Legend has it that the cousin of the Prophet Muhammad is buried there. And don’t miss the remains of the 15th century observatory on the edge of the city, built by Ulugh Beg. Here is where he mapped the stars and worked out the length of the year, among other things, with astonishing accuracy. The Registan is so huge that it’s worth visiting the site several times. Try to visit at different times of the day. This will allow you to pick out different details and to observe the play of light and shadow in the muqarnas. The site is open between 8am-7pm daily and the entrance fee is 50,000 som ($3.90).
Read moreKyrgyzstan
Song-Kul to Issyk-Kul trek
ExperienceThis is a popular route that offers a relatively easy introduction to the stunning Tian-Shan mountains as you hike between the two largest lakes in Kyrgyzstan: Song-Kul and Issyk-Kul. The route is offered by some operators as a three day itinerary, but in my opinion that’s a touristy option and not a great experience. I usually advise visitors to spend at least six days on this trek, partially to enjoy the beauty of the landscapes, but also to acclimatise to the altitude as you’ll cross three high passes over 3,500 metres along the way. The total distance is between 58 and 62 km with between seven and 12 hours hiking per day, depending on the conditions. There are some small rivers that have to be crossed and there are two options for the descent into Tuura-Suu. The exact route you follow will depend on the weather and the water levels in the rivers. You’ll follow ancient trading routes and donkey trails through the mountains, meeting nomadic herdsmen who live there with their horses, sheep and yaks during the summer months. This is where a good guide comes in handy – helping with the language and cultural barriers, and maybe securing an invite to take tea with a herder and their family. You’ll be staying in yurts at both lakes and wild camping during the hike, and organised treks will use horses to carry your equipment and baggage. The route is only really passable from June until mid-September.
Read moreKyrgyzstan
Issyk-Kul to Naryn
For experienced trekkers and those looking for a real challenge I usually recommend this route from Issyk-Kul over the dramatic Terskey Ala-too mountains to Naryn town. The route starts out gently over the Zhazy Kechuu pastures but quickly climbs into the mountains, crossing three high mountain passes, the highest of which, the Jakyp Bolot pass, reaches an eye-watering 3,960 metres. It’s essential you acclimatise before setting off and build rest days into your itinerary where necessary. I find it hard to describe just how beautiful this route is: you need to see it to believe it. You hike surrounded by snow capped mountains, past dramatic lakes and gorges, through forests and pastures, maybe passing the camps of nomadic herders. It’s a tough route, and not one you can do solo, but you won’t see any other trekkers out there and the scenery is out of this world.
Read moreShirkent National Park
Karatag to Hakimi
ExperienceAlthough Shirkent National Park isn’t far from Dushanbe, very few people visit this region of the Fann Mountains, making it a real hidden gem and one of my favourite places to hike anywhere in Tajikistan. This circular route is a moderate difficulty camping trek that starts at the Katarag gorge before leading up to the once-inhabited Parmin plateau and onto the Shirkent gorge. For two days you can follow the Shirkent Barrier, a colossal massif of heavily eroded sandstone before crossing the Khazor-Khona pass, the trek’s high point at 3,160m. From here you meet the Pariyon River and follow it to the stunning Pariyon Lake before returning to Karatag.
Read moreYagnob Valley
Romit Valley to Ziddy Valley
ExperienceMy favourite trek in the Yagnob Valley region starts in the Romit Valley nature preserve and ends in Lailakul in the Ziddy Valley. The upper part of the valley is just stunning, with great sweeping fields overlooked by towering snow capped peaks. The route follows three separate valleys (Yagnob, Romit and Ziddy) connected by two mountain passes. The passes are steep and follow narrow trails, but no technical skills are required. There are also several river crossings which must be completed with safety ropes. You’ll be lucky to see locals here, let along other travellers, although you’ll pass by the occasional farming village inhabited by descendants of the ancient Sogdians.
Read moreCentral Asia
Bachor to Yashilkul Lake
ExperienceThe Bachor region of the Pamirs offers some of the most remote, high-altitude and overall challenging trekking anywhere in the Pamirs, and all Tajikistan for that matter. One of my favourite routes is a ten day hike from Bachor to Yashilkul Lake staying in a mixture of camping and local homestays. This trek hops from one glacial lake to the next, with Kulen Lake topping out at 4,800 metres. But the scenery makes it all well worthwhile, the views over Zaroshkkul Lake can bring you to tears and after dark you’re treated to spectacular night scapes of the Milky Way. After eight days of high altitude hiking you descend through through the wide valley of the Chapdarkul river to Bachor pasture grazed by herds of yaks, before crossing the river to Yashilkul Lake.
Read moreCentral Asia
Engels Peak Base Camp
ExperienceLike the definition of short but sweet, Engels Peak Base Camp day hike is just a 3.1-mile round trip from Engels Village. Engels Peak Base Camp is the starting point for those looking to conquer Engels Peak, one of the significant summits in the Tajik Pamirs. The base camp sits at an altitude of around 4,200 metres and, for those with just a day, is a scenic introduction to Engels Peak without the commitment of a summit climb. The trail is graced with stunning panoramas, rivers, and isolated hamlets, where you can experience the Tajik mountain culture firsthand.
Read moreJizev
Jizeu Valley
ExperienceThe 10-mile village-to-village hike cuts through Jizeu Valley, often called "The Jewel of the Pamirs" for its natural beauty. Located in the Bartang Valley, the trek starts at Jizeu Village and traverses scenic landscapes with terraced fields, cliffs, and serene forested areas. The valley is home to three traditional Pamiri villages - Jizeu, Balunk, and Marjan. Here, you see the age-old Pamiri lifestyle, preserved through generations. There's a chance for cultural immersion, including having tea in the villages or alternating between nights camping and staying in a local homestay. The area is teeming with wildlife. Sightings of Marco Polo sheep and Ibex are common, and you might spot the elusive snow leopard with luck.
Read moreCentral Asia
Bachor to Sarez Lake
ExperienceThe Bachor to Sarez Lake trek is a spectacular journey in Tajikistan's Pamir Mountains. This demanding eight-day trek starts in Bachor, a remote village in the Bartang Valley. Accommodation options are primarily camping, with occasional homestays. The route takes you across high passes, rocky landscapes, and past swift rivers. Along the way, you'll visit secluded villages, experience local Pamiri culture, and witness stunning panoramas of snow-capped peaks. The pinnacle of the journey is the arrival at Sarez Lake, a high-altitude lake created by a devastating earthquake in 1911. The natural dam, Usoi Dam, is the tallest in the world and has trapped a stunning body of water over 55 km long. The lake's deep blue waters set against the stark mountainous backdrop form a breathtaking vista and haven for migratory birds.
Read moreYagnob Valley
Yagnob Valley Loop
ExperienceThis route proves that hiking doesn't have to be endless ridges and desolate valleys. This trek takes hikers through the heart of the Yagnob Valley, known as the "Living Museum" for its preserved ancient way of life. The trek spans four to five days, starting and ending in Vershab village, accessible from Dushanbe. You are immediately met with captivating mountain landscapes, pristine rivers, and small traditional villages where locals still speak Yagnobi, a direct descendant of the ancient Sogdian language. A cultural immersion to its core, this hike offers opportunities to experience local life in remote communities largely untouched by modernity. Key highlights include the scenic Marguzor Lakes and the historical ruins in Pskon village, relics of the ancient Sogdian civilization. You’ll stay in homestays along the way, with camping options if you want a more basic experience.
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Trek to Merzbacher
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Wander through fields of tulips in Aksu-Zhabagly
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See Samarkand in full
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Song-Kul to Issyk-Kul trek
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Issyk-Kul to Naryn
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Romit Valley to Ziddy Valley
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Bachor to Yashilkul Lake
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Engels Peak Base Camp
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Yagnob Valley Loop
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The Pamir Trail
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Heights of Alay Valley
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Peak Karakol
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Arslanbob Holy Lakes hike
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Khan Tengri Base Camp
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Talas Range to Sary-Chelek
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Ala-Köl trek
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