Baia is a Tbilisi-born travel journalist with bylines for Lonely Planet, National Geographic Traveller, Skyscanner as well as her own website, Red Fedora Diary, providing local insights and tips for Tiblisi, Georgia and beyond. You can follow her travels on Instagram and Facebook.
Difficulty: Strenuous
Duration: Three to four days
Start/end point: Zeskho to Ghebi
Accommodation: Camping
The trek from Zeskho, in Svaneti, to Ghebi, in Racha, is quite challenging but very beautiful. You should be comfortable hiking six to seven hours a day through some of the most isolated parts of the Caucasus, offering stunning views of the Rioni River valley, Edena Peak, and Sasvano lakes.
Need to know
Some sections of the trail require river crossings (big and small) and tackling hilly ascents and descents, with frequent elevation changes as it transits two steep mountain passes. You also walk on a narrow, slightly rocky mountain ridge with lofty slopes. Additionally, parts of the trek follow an old car road once connecting these two regions, but the road is almost lost with landslides, desertion, and overgrown flora.
The dense Tskhenistskali Valley, with verdant plants and bushes, is the trickiest part. It almost covers the trail and makes it easy to miss. Therefore, hiking from Svaneti to Racha is recommended only for confident navigators.
This area is remote, with no shelters or guesthouses, so a tent is necessary. You must have a passport or ID for a border checkpoint at the mountaineering centre.
How to get to Zeskho, Svaneti
You will need to book a taxi transfer from Mestia or Ushguli. You can hitchhike, but this road is rarely used by cars, and if you see one, it will be full.
How to leave Ghebi, Racha
The marshrutka from Ghebi to Oni departs only on Thursdays at 9 am and 6 pm. Otherwise, you'd need to hitchhike or take a taxi.
At a glance
Destinations
Svaneti
Activity
Adventure, Backpacking, Hiking & Trekking, Active, Walking, Nature & Wildlife, Culture, Responsible Travel, Slow TravelPhysical Level
Strenuous
Season
January - December
Duration
4 days
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