Svaneti
Svaneti is one of the most popular regions in Georgia, attracting keen hikers and walkers as well as casual tourists. Its popularity means Svaneti can feel somewhat overrun during peak season, but it doesn’t negate the region’s unquestionable charm.
Although Svaneti is a year-round destination, most travellers flock here in summer for hiking and in winter for skiing. Summer, particularly August, is peak season, and the famous Mestia-Ushguli trek can get crowded. I prefer this alternative route instead,
Hidden gems in Svaneti
Svaneti
Svaneti to Racha trek
ExperienceDifficulty: StrenuousDuration: Three to four daysStart/end point: Zeskho to GhebiAccommodation: Camping The trek from Zeskho, in Svaneti, to Ghebi, in Racha, is quite challenging but very beautiful. You should be comfortable hiking six to seven hours a day through some of the most isolated parts of the Caucasus, offering stunning views of the Rioni River valley, Edena Peak, and Sasvano lakes. Need to know Some sections of the trail require river crossings (big and small) and tackling hilly ascents and descents, with frequent elevation changes as it transits two steep mountain passes. You also walk on a narrow, slightly rocky mountain ridge with lofty slopes. Additionally, parts of the trek follow an old car road once connecting these two regions, but the road is almost lost with landslides, desertion, and overgrown flora. The dense Tskhenistskali Valley, with verdant plants and bushes, is the trickiest part. It almost covers the trail and makes it easy to miss. Therefore, hiking from Svaneti to Racha is recommended only for confident navigators. This area is remote, with no shelters or guesthouses, so a tent is necessary. You must have a passport or ID for a border checkpoint at the mountaineering centre. How to get to Zeskho, Svaneti You will need to book a taxi transfer from Mestia or Ushguli. You can hitchhike, but this road is rarely used by cars, and if you see one, it will be full. How to leave Ghebi, Racha The marshrutka from Ghebi to Oni departs only on Thursdays at 9 am and 6 pm. Otherwise, you'd need to hitchhike or take a taxi.
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Alternative Mestia to Ushguli trek route
ExperienceThe standard Mestia to Ushguli trek is one of the most popular multi-day hikes in Georgia – the only downside is it can feel busy during peak season! I much prefer this alternative route to Ushguli via Tsvirmi which avoids the worst of the crowds. Like the standard route it's moderate difficulty and can be done in three days, staying in guest houses overnight. The route From Mestia, you ascend onto the Zuruldi massif, then descend to the village of Tsvirmi, head to the Tetnuldi ski resort before merging with the classic trail to Ushguli via Adishi on day three and finish with Iprali to Ushguli on day four. I prefer this path because it offers much more pleasing scenery from the beginning and fewer hikers. The only downside is that the start of the first (if you can't take the cable car) and the second days are less scenic. From the cable car's top, the path goes to Zuruldi Ridge, where incredible panoramic vistas open up. The descent to Tsvimri goes through a steep forest with several vertical drops at some places. The beginning of the Tsvimri-Tetnuldi resort path follows the main road of Mestia-Ushguli - the least favourite part of the trek, but the views of Mt. Ushba make up for it. Need to know Guesthouses along the way offer a comfortable stay with meals. I love hiking this trail in September when the crowds are smaller, the weather is still warm, and the landscapes are gorgeous. June through October is generally a good time for this hike. You can take the new cable car from Mestia to the top of Zuruldi Ridge to skip the more challenging and least picturesque part. However, be prepared that the cable car might be closed, and you would still have to hike the unappealing first part of the trail. I suggest enquiring with the host in Mestia
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Svaneti to Racha trek
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Alternative Mestia to Ushguli trek route
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