Stepantsminda features highly in Georgia hiking itineraries. It's also a popular destination for day or weekend walking trips from Tbilisi due to the graceful Gergeti Trinity Church found at the foot of Mount Kazbegi.

The church's picturesque location draws crowds of day trippers, making it feel crowded at times (something you won't see in the marketing photos).

I prefer this extended hike – it takes you past the church but you then continue to the base of the Gergeti, leaving the crowds behind you.

The hike is about 20km and moderately difficult (lots of relentless climbing). It will take you between seven and ten hours.

Most people take five hours to climb the glacier and then come back to the village for another three. Even though this is a single day hike, be aware that you’ll gain more 1,500m in elevation. This is a tough walk, but the path is well marked and easy to follow.

I'm sure you'll probably want to get your own version of the iconic church in front of Mt Kazbegi. In this case, be aware it will most likely be clouded over by mid-morning, so you'll need an early start to catch it in full glory. Alternatively, you can always take a taxi to Gergeti Trinity Church from Stepantsminda and start the hike from there.

There are several routes from Stepantsminda, but the best trail to take to the church is through the Bashli Valley, offering some fine views of the surrounding mountains. This route is a bit longer, but the incline is less steep and is away from car traffic. The track passes a ruined tower and follows the Bashi creek up to the church.

After getting to the church, the path continues towards the glacier through the birch forest to the Sabertse Pass. There are two options here, but the scenic route is the one that follows the ridge to the Sabertse crossing. Once there, you can explore a small shrine with a cross and enjoy a first look at the glacier. After crossing the metal bridge of the Chkheri river, the trail becomes steeper and climbs directly to the bottom of the glacier.

The best time for this hike is from June till October.

How to get to Stepantsminda

There are several ways to get from Tbilisi's Didube Bus Station to Stepantsminda.

The cheapest and least comfortable option is by marshrutka (shared van). It departs hourly from 8 am to 7 pm, except for mid-afternoon (at 2:30 pm and 3:30 pm). The journey takes around three to four hours. This is public transport designed for locals, so drivers do not stop at touristy spots along the Georgian Military Highway, except for one short break by a restaurant.

Mercedes minivans to Kazbegi are more comfortable and will get you to Stepantsminda faster. Shared taxis are also available, but they wait for the car to fill up, or you pay for the empty seats.