• Distance: 28km (17 miles)
• Duration: Three days
• Start point: Truso Valley
• End point: Kelitsadi Lake
• Difficulty: Challenging – self-supported with wild camping

This picturesque and remote trek starts from the scenic Truso Valley, near the border with South Ossetia. Here, you can explore abandoned villages, ancient towers and mineral lakes. The route traverses the Keli volcanic plateau – an arid, rocky land situated west of the Georgian Military Highway. Few hikers come here as it's very close to the separatist territory of South Ossetia and the track is quite challenging. However, the highlight of the hike – crossing two 3,400m high mountain passes and the glacial Kelitsadi lake itself – make the trek worthwhile for hiking in Georgia.

The Truso Valley is around 20km from Stepantsminda. The trek starts from the sparsely-inhabited Kvemo Okrokana village and climbs up into the upper part of the valley. Look out for several mineral springs along the route, with some even forming pools of – icy – water you can swim in. Once in the valley, you see beautiful views of the opposing Mna gorge until you reach the rock-covered Keli plateau.

The trek takes three days. There are no proper camping spots or home stays, so you’ll be wild camping. Bring a tent, food, and water. As the trek crosses a volcanic plateau, there are few water sources. Make sure to have around 4-5 litres of water when leaving Kvemo Okrokana.

During the hike, you’ll pass the Higher and Lesser Khorisar volcanic peaks, until you reach the Khorisar Pass at 3,429m. The route is challenging so it’s worth taking a guide or GPS. From here, you should be able to see the White Aragvi River, which you’ll cross before descending to Kelitsadi Lake.

The hike towards Ketrisi village from Kelitsadi offers spectacular views of the Kazbegi massif, but strays very close to the South Ossetian border, so make sure you’re on the right route. The path continues into the Esi river valley and enters a small canyon with steep slopes. The village lies ahead after crossing the Esri river via a wooden bridge. Look for the monasteries and nunneries of Ketrisi, or take a short walk to the ruins of Zakagori Fortress.

How to get to Truso Valley

The entrance to the valley lies at Kobi village. Either ask the marshrutka driver to drop you off there or take a taxi to the Kvemo Okrokana village. Since 2018, Mountain Freaks, a travel agency, organises a bus from Stepantsminda to Kvemo Okrokana twice a day.

How to leave Ketrisi

The easiest way is to call a driver and arrange a pickup. Otherwise, walk out of the valley and stop any marshrutka to Tbilisi on the Georgian Military Highway.