Africa Travel Guide - Horizon Guides

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There's some dispute over the etymology of the name 'Africa' but one theory is that it came from the Ancient Greek and Roman words for "warm" and "sunny."

If this is indeed the case, it seems sadly fitting: this is the continent that has been the object, rather than the subject, for much of its history. The continent that has been talked about and done to by outsiders, at the cost of finding its own voice and place in the world.

The tourism industry plays its own grubby role: property ownership and tax domiciliation – especially at the super luxury high-end of the market – are murky subjects. Marketing imagery is still overwhelmingly of black Africans serving wealthy white visitors. Things are changing, but not fast enough.

It almost feels tasteless to attempt to talk about "Africa" as a singular entity. Instead we'd much rather talk about its various regions, countries and locales – on the human scale, where local cultures, stories and heritage have more space to breathe.

One thing we can tell you: despite the tourism industry's emphasis on traditional safari, there's so much more to this continent than staring at the Big Five from an open-top jeep. Come for the wildlife, stay for the human connections, the emerging slow travel scene and the myriad other ways to hear, finally, Africa talking for itself.

Hidden gems in Africa

Dadès Valley

Mohamed El Guellouti

Place

The Dadès Valley, a quiet corner in the ochre-walled oasis valleys between the High Atlas and Anti-Atlas ranges, draws a fraction of the hikers as Jebel Toubkal to the west or Jebel Saghro to the east. Much less touched by tourism, the settlements here follow a more traditional pace of life, with original berber villages and what remains of the valley’s “one thousand kasbahs” some of which date back to the 11th century. My personal highlight, and possibly my favourite place to hike anywhere in Morocco, is the Valley of the Roses, which follows the M’goun River from Kalaat M'Gouna as it detours north from the Dadès Valley. Here, damask roses which were first planted by French settlers are harvested each May. It’s a deeply traditional and picturesque part of the country and one where you’ll be untroubled by other tourists.

Jebel Sirwa

Mohamed El Guellouti

Place

Jebel Sirwa in the Anti-Atlas range is another crowd-free alternative to Toubkal. The scenery here is classic Anti-Atlas landscapes of traditional Berber villages in green oasis valleys which give way to stark, rocky mountain peaks. The focal point for hikes here is Jebel Sirwa. At 3,305 metres the summit is a relatively straightforward climb but the harsh sun, a lack of shade and narrow, rocky paths make it a moderately challenging hike. One I’d recommend for seasoned hikers who want to do something different to the standard Toubkal or M'goun treks.

Merzouga

Erg Chebbi for accessible desert trekking

Sarah Gilbert

Place

The village of Merzouga has accommodation to suit all budgets, and you can arrange everything from a sunset camel safari to sandboarding, quad biking, overnight camping and longer treks. Erg Chebbi is Morocco’s most accessible stretch of Sahara, with dunes around 22 kilometres long and 25 kilometres wide, reaching lofty heights of 160m in places. It is especially striking at sunset, turning from orange to pink and purple as the night sky glitters with stars. Then you might tuck into madfouna, or ‘Berber pizza’, a stuffed flatbread baked in a fire pit buried in the sand, before a campfire drumming session. Campsites can be just 15 minutes from Merzouga by 4x4 or a couple of hours by camel. The downsides: convoys of vehicles dropping off people and supplies in high season, quad bikes overtaking camel caravans and being across a dune from another camp. If you want more solitude, choose your camp carefully or go out of season. For a real hidden gem, the village of Khamlia, six kilometres south of Merzouga, is home to Dar Gnaoua, where musicians – including the renowned Les Pigeons du Sable – celebrate their sub-Saharan African roots, performing to an enthusiastic crowd, shaking krakebs (metal castanets) and keeping their hypnotic beat on tbel drums.

Tafraoute

Anti-Atlas Range

Mandy Sinclair

Place

Stretching from the Atlantic Ocean inland toward the Sahara Desert is the Anti-Atlas Range, another of Morocco's lesser-visited trekking locations. Although technically part of the same geological system, the Anti-Atlas couldn't be any more different to the High Atlas. The peaks are much lower and the scenery is a semi-arid landscape of jagged mountains and rugged gorges. Vastly fewer trekkers come here compared to the High Atlas, making this a refreshing change to the touristy bustle further north. The Anti-Atlas Mountain town of Tafraoute, gateway to the stunning AmeIn Valley, is worth a visit for a night or two allowing for at least a day hike, or just a break for travellers heading to/from the Sahara Desert. Famous for its almonds, colourful babouche slippers particular to the region, and even as a starting point for cycling up to the blue rocks and spotting prehistoric rock carvings. There are rewarding hikes around the AmeIn Valley, with most travellers starting in the village of Oumesnat and following paths that lead through neighbouring villages and pass argan and almond trees dotting the landscape. In the valley’s village of Asgaour, the rockface resembling a lion’s head is one to find amongst the craggy rocks. The trails can be navigated without a guide, but be mindful of limited shade and strong sun. My advice is to visit with a trekking operator: it will be rare to find anyone speaking English and replenishing water and food supplies may be tricky. Pack sunscreen and snacks accordingly.

Sahara Desert

M’hamid for Sahara adventures

Sarah Gilbert

Place

M’hamid is the last Moroccan outpost before the Algerian border, where the road dissolves into sand and the desert takes over. It’s the jumping-off point for the dramatic dunes of Erg Chigaga, 60 kilometres to the west – around two hours by 4x4, or a thrilling three day trek by camel. Erg Chigaga, Morocco’s longest and highest sand sea, ripples for around 40 kilometres with dunes topping 300m. It’s wilder and less visited than Erg Chebbi, and its camps are more isolated, but the off-road journey to get there is more expensive. On the way, there are stops at panoramic viewpoints and perhaps a mint tea break with desert nomads outside their goat-hair tent. From your campsite, you can trek on foot or by camel, scramble up and sandboard down a towering dune, and savour the sunset and stellar desert views before stargazing from a carpet spread across the sand and music around the campfire. Look out for nocturnal wildlife: the fennec, with its enormous ears, is the smallest fox species, and sand cats are the only desert-dwelling felines. On a morning trek, your guide will point out its tiny tracks zigzagging across the dunes.

Essaouira

Morocco's Atlantic coast

Mohamed El Guellouti

Place

Most trekking in Morocco focuses on the Atlas Mountains and the Sahara Desert, but the country has a long coastline and a rich maritime history which can be explored on foot well away from the regular tourist trail. I like the stretch of coast south of Essaouira, you can spend four or five days here following the old Portuguese trade routes and visiting small fishing villages and beach towns along the way. Historical Essaouira itself is a good place to spend a night or two at the end of your hike.

Rif Mountains

Talassemtane and the Rif Mountains

Mandy Sinclair

Place

Nestled in the heart of the Rif Mountains, the blue city of Chefchaouen and nearby Talassemtane National Park offer trekkers a welcome escape to the Toubkal bustle. Once inside Talassemtane National Park, quiet paths wind through cedar forests, across high ridges and past tiny Berber villages. The main attraction here when hiking alongside, and sometimes through, the river was the awe-inspiring Bridge of God, a 30-metre high natural bridge connecting the canyon, where we swam in the waters below. This is a popular spot in the summer months, particularly with vacationing locals. Nevertheless, when travelling in this region, I still hired a local guide who also organised transport. For longer treks, a guide is highly recommended, not only to lead the way, but for organising donkeys to transport supplies, assisting with any unexpected medical emergencies, and they can often provide gear for the journey. The region is known for its (illegal) marijuana cultivation, and a guide will help you stay well aware of the areas that are best avoided.

Toubkal National Park

Mandy Sinclair

Place

No round-up of Morocco trekking highlights can ignore Toubkal National Park in the High Atlas Range, the highest and most extensive stretch of the Atlas Mountains. Home to Jebel (Mount) Toubkal, North Africa’s highest peak, this is by far Morocco's most popular hiking destination. It's a region of sparse, rocky and snow-capped (in winter) peaks and lush green valleys below with blossoming fruit trees in the spring, which make for some excellent trekking and hiking, although one that draws significant crowds. While the tourism industry likes to push the two-day Mt Toubkal trek, I'd highly recommend making time for the six-day Toubkal Circuit trek. The trailhead is just beyond the village of Imlil, where most visitors disembark to start their hike. Hiring a guide to accompany non-locals on the journey is a must, in fact, it’s mandatory. I’d suggest hiring an official guide to avoid any faux guides who may be hanging around en route. Licensed guides are typically local and undergo training to earn their certification to help trekkers navigate the way, the weather and organise supplies for the journey. For a shorter hike, depart Imlil to wander through lush green valleys, climbing up to one of the mountainside Amazigh villages or an approximately six-hour trek to Sidi Chamharouch, a pre-Islamic pilgrimage site known for healing health issues or exorcising spirits. From Marrakech, a day trip to Ouzoud Waterfalls makes for a refreshing day out. The trail is easily marked, meaning just organise transport and you can easily follow the path to the canyon where two-tiered waterfalls cascade. Be mindful of the Barbary apes you may encounter while passing through the shaded areas.

Ait Bougmez Valley

Aït Bougmez Valley & M'goun Massif

Mandy Sinclair

Place

Few hikers make it to Aït Bougmez, a valley running along the M'goun Massif in Morocco's Central High Atlas mountains. Those who do are rewarded with lush pastures, picturesque views across the valley and hospitable locals who don’t let language barriers get in the way—and some of the best trekking in Morocco. Every spring, the nomadic Ait Atta tribes make a two-week trek to the Aït Bougmez Valley. Once here, they graze their herds in the valley’s rich pastures and sparkling rivers fed from glacial lakes before returning home for the winter. Avid trekkers can join for the transhumance (livestock migration), an activity that may be best done sooner rather than later given the decline of traditional nomadic life. The village of Agouti is the starting point for a scenic three- or six-day trek to the M’Goun Massif, the second highest peak in Morocco (after Jebel Toubkal in the nearby Toubkal National Park). Hire a mountain guide to accompany you and plan to stay in gites along the way. This trek is best done from spring to fall, before the harsh winters descend on the valley. Staying in the valley provides opportunity for day treks to a glacial lake where nomadic tribes graze their herds in the summer months, or multi-day treks traversing the valley. With little signage and few restaurants, it is best to visit with a Morocco trekking operator, or find your own trekking guide locally who will also coordinate muleteers and piping hot cuisine along the way.

Serengeti National Park

Tanzania safari in green season

Khuzeima Zavery

Experience

The general consensus on the best times for a safari in Tanzania (or anywhere in Africa for that matter) is to avoid the rainy seasons at all costs. According to received wisdom, the rainy season means wildlife is more dispersed as they don’t have to congregate around scarce waterholes. The foliage is thick and lush which, although beautiful, makes spotting wildlife even harder. And heavy rains may make more remote roads impassable, and lots of camps shut down during the “long rains” of mid-March to early June. In Tanzania, timings are further complicated by the movement of the wildebeest migration, especially the heavily-marketed river crossing period which creates even more pressure to be on safari during the peak months of July to September. Personally, I think this is a big shame. It creates unsustainable pressure on a handful of key locations during a few short months, and it does a great disservice to the rest of the country – and the rest of the year. For visitors on a limited schedule, or perhaps those who’ve already had the ‘classic’ safari experience before, I often suggest coming during the rainy, or ‘green’ season. Contrary to the general consensus, I think this is a lovely time to be in Tanzania. This is when nature bursts back into life, fresh grass carpets the plains, rivers are ripe and waterholes are full, and wildlife thrives in the renewed ecosystem. Yes you’ll expect rain, but it doesn’t rain all day, every day. Showers are usually short-lived, and the sun often comes out shortly after. In my experience, the warnings about missing wildlife sightings during this period are exaggerated – it’s just as exciting as other seasons, if not more. This is when the southern Serengeti and Ndutu areas become nurseries for thousands of newborn wildebeest, zebra, and other herbivores. The entire wildebeest migration is set out on the Central and Southern plains, as far as your eyes can see. And with so many young and vulnerable animals, the big cats and cheetahs are all highly active. But for me, the biggest advantage of a green season safari is the solitude. Unlike the peak season, where a single kill can attract crowds of vehicles, the green season offers a more personal and exclusive experience. It is not uncommon to be the only vehicle watching a lioness teach her cubs to hunt, with no other vehicles in sight. If you’ve ever dreamed of having the Serengeti (almost) to yourself, this is the season to go. Plus, coming in an "off" season helps tackle unsustainable overcrowding such as around the river crossings during peak season. And finally, visiting in the green season offers one other big perk: value for money! Prices for lodges and camps drop by up to 50%, which means you can either get more luxury for your budget or enjoy a longer stay than you’d otherwise afford. The only thing I’d note is that although I usually recommend tented camps for a more authentic experience, during this rainy period, a permanent lodge would be more comfortable.

Saadani National Park

Best for an unusual coastal safari

Philip Briggs

Place

Another of Tanzania’s hidden gems, Saadani lies on the beautiful stretch of Indian Ocean coastline that divides the port cities of Dar es Salaam and Tanga. The palm-lined beaches here form the last remaining turtle nesting site on the country’s north coast. This is also the only East African coastal reserve where you’ll see lions, leopards, elephants, buffalo and giraffes. Wildlife densities at Saadani are admittedly rather low, so it isn't the place for first-time visitors wanting to tick all the boxes in one short safari. But the wilderness feel, the beautiful beachfront location and a wide range of activities – including boat trips on the Wami River, birdwatching in the salt flats, guided bush walks, and of course game drives – make it a great option for adventurous travelers who want to get truly off the beaten path.

Arusha National Park

Underrated Arusha

Philip Briggs

Place

It always surprises me how few visitors to northern Tanzania make the effort to visit the underrated Arusha National Park. This, as its name suggests, is the closest park to the safari gateway town of Arusha (the drive takes around 45 minutes) and it packs a huge amount of diversity into a relatively small area. Set in the shadow of Mount Meru, the park incorporates rainforests alive with colobus monkeys, tracts of savannah grazed by giraffes and zebras, spectacular calderas and waterfalls, and much more besides. While here you’ll want to take a canoe trip on the gorgeous Momella Lakes where you’ll see plenty of hippos, buffalo and flamingos.