Africa
Much more than safari



There's some dispute over the etymology of the name 'Africa' but one theory is that it came from the Ancient Greek and Roman words for "warm" and "sunny."
If this is indeed the case, it seems sadly fitting: this is the continent that has been the object, rather than the subject, for much of its history. The continent that has been talked about and done to by outsiders, at the cost of finding its own voice and place in the world.
The tourism industry plays its own grubby role: property ownership and tax domiciliation – especially at the super luxury high-end of the market – are murky subjects. Marketing imagery is still overwhelmingly of black Africans serving wealthy white visitors. Things are changing, but not fast enough.
It almost feels tasteless to attempt to talk about "Africa" as a singular entity. Instead we'd much rather talk about its various regions, countries and locales – on the human scale, where local cultures, stories and heritage have more space to breathe.
One thing we can tell you: despite the tourism industry's emphasis on traditional safari, there's so much more to this continent than staring at the Big Five from an open-top jeep. Come for the wildlife, stay for the human connections, the emerging slow travel scene and the myriad other ways to hear, finally, Africa talking for itself.
Hidden gems in Africa
Masai Mara National Reserve
Olare Motorogi Conservancy
PlaceOne of my favourite of all the Mara conservancies, Olare Motorogi Conservancy is tiny – just ten tents, making it ideal for those seeking a quieter, more personal encounter with the wilderness. There are five concessions here: Porini Lion Camp, Kicheche Bush Camp, Mara Plains Camp, Olare Mara Kempinski and Mahali Mzuri, all of which are excellent, although Porini Lion Camp probably gets my top vote. You'll struggle to find a quieter, less crowded safari anywhere else in Kenya.
Read moreLaikipia
Kicheche Laikipia
AccommodationKicheche Laikipia, with only six tents, offers an incredibly intimate experience. It’s a great spot if you’re looking for a quieter, more personal safari. The wildlife here is abundant, and what I love about this camp is the chance to see not just the big cats, but also the incredible birdlife and other species unique to the area. The camp’s location allows for both excellent game drives and walking safaris.
Read moreLaikipia
Porini Rhino Camp
AccommodationBest for: Rhino conservation With just seven tents, Porini Rhino Camp is wonderfully intimate and it’s situated in a fantastic location for rhino sightings. The fact that it’s within the expansive 90,000-acre Laikipia Conservancy means you're surrounded by incredible wildlife but without the crowds. And their efforts for rhino conservation is especially rewarding: during my stay, I had the privilege of seeing both black and white rhinos up close, and it’s always one of those moments that sticks with you. It’s not just about the rhinos, though; there’s a great variety of wildlife here, and the camp is in the heart of it all.
Read moreMasai Mara National Reserve
Porini Lion Camp
AccommodationBest for: Masai Mara walking safaris Porini Lion Camp, in the Olare Motorogi Conservancy, is small and delightfully intimate. With just ten tents, it feels very personal, and you really get to know the staff and the area. The camp is great for game drives and walking safaris, and I always find the chances of spotting big cats especially high here. It pairs very nicely with Saruni Basecamp during migration river crossing season – I usually recommend three nights in each.
Read moreMasai Mara National Reserve
Saruni Basecamp
AccommodationBest for: uncrowded migration viewings Located in the Mara North Conservancy, the 17-tent Saruni Basecamp has an ideal spot right on the river with some stunning views. I can’t think of many better places to see the wildebeest migration in Kenya, and during my stay, I was blown away by how close we were to the action, with none of the crowds that mar the experience in busier corners of the Masai Mara.
Read moreLamu Island
Manda Bay
AccommodationBest for: a unique coastal getaway I’ve always been impressed by Manda Bay on Manda Island, even the arrival by speedboat is impressive and sets the tone for the whole stay. The resort is tucked away on a beautiful stretch of beach, offering a laid-back, calm atmosphere. The accommodation is made up of spacious, thatched cottages and beach villas. The rooms are comfortable, with private terraces, en-suite bathrooms, and views over the ocean, and there are some fun activities on offer: sailing, kayaking or taking a dhow trip around the islands.
Read moreWatamu Marine National Park
Ocean Sports Resort
AccommodationBest for: beach lovers and water sports Ocean Sports Resort is probably my top tip for Watamu. The location is ideal, right on the beach, so you're just a few steps away from the sea and there’s some great snorkelling nearby. I’d also suggest trying paddleboarding and taking a sunset dhow cruise on Mida Creek, a peaceful mangrove-lined estuary. The best time to visit is from mid-October to April, as this is when the weather is at its best. I would avoid September, though, when seaweed tends to drift in, which can affect the beach experience. Watamu is unique in that it offers both ocean and creek experiences. I’d recommend snorkelling in the Coral Gardens for the marine life, but also make sure you take a dhow cruise for that magical moment of sailing along with the wind in the sail, sipping a sundowner as the sun sets over the creek. There’s something special about those old-style dhows that really takes you back in time.
Read moreSamburu Game Reserve
Sabache Eco Camp
AccommodationBest for: authentic cultural experiences In my opinion, Sabache Eco Camp is probably the most interesting and authentic experience in Samburu and beyond. The camp is run by the local Samburu community with a welcoming, down-to-earth atmosphere. The tents are spacious and comfortable with en-suite bathrooms, though if the water’s not working, it’s usually because the monkeys have been tampering with the stopcocks… I’ve stayed here several times, and I always enjoy the peace. The best rooms are just above the dining area – a bit of a climb but with great views. On one of my visits, I had the incredible experience of seeing a small herd of elephants quietly moving through the camp under the cover of night. It was surreal, catching glimpses of these enormous creatures by the light of our head torches. For a real adventure, I’d recommend fly camping at the summit of Mount Ololokwe. Watching the sunrise over the Mathews Range and Mount Kenya is unforgettable. Plus, the vultures soaring past on thermal currents are a sight to behold. If you have time, visit the nearby Reteti Elephant Sanctuary. It’s a short drive from Sabache, and you can watch the Samburu team feed orphaned elephants and see how they prepare the milk formula for them.
Read moreSamburu Game Reserve
Elephant Bedroom Camp
AccommodationBest for: wildlife enthusiasts and unique experiences I usually recommend the authentic and intimate Elephant Bedroom camp for visitors coming to Samburu. The camp is set in a perfect location, right on the Ewaso Nyiro River, with sweeping views that are hard to beat. The tented rooms are raised on stilts, which gives you an extra sense of being immersed in nature. It’s one of the few places where you can hear the sounds of elephants right outside your tent, as they often wander through or graze near the camp, and since it’s unfenced, you’re really part of the wilderness. One of my most memorable moments was when we were having lunch below the main terrace by the river and had to quickly abandon it when an inquisitive elephant came to join us. It's those kinds of moments that make this place special. Sundowners after the afternoon game drive are always a delight, as you reflect on the day while surrounded by the sounds of the bush.
Read moreMasai Mara National Reserve
Mara North Conservancy
PlaceThe Maasai Mara is the most iconic wildlife ecosystem in Kenya, possibly all of Africa. But my biggest tip for visiting the Mara is to stay in one of the conservancies dotted around and adjacent to the Mara. These offer a more exclusive and intimate safari experience, with fewer vehicles and a chance to see wildlife in a more peaceful setting. The Mara North Conservancy, where Saruni Basecamp is located, offers incredible river views and excellent opportunities to witness the migration.
Read moreOl Pejeta Conservancy
Ol Pejeta Conservancy
PlaceThe Ol Pejeta Conservancy is famous for its black rhinos and as the guardian of the last northern white rhino anywhere on earth. Despite lying on the equator, its 1,900 metre elevation gives it a cooler highland climate that contrasts with the surrounding arid landscapes. I find it a wonderful complement to places like Samburu, especially if you want to see a different side of Kenya’s diverse ecosystems. The conservancy’s cooler early mornings and evenings mean you’ll want to dress in layers. One of my favourite spots there is Morani’s restaurant, named after a rhino, which offers a unique dining experience within the conservancy itself. The intimate camps Porini Rhino and Kicheche Laikipia offer wonderful opportunities to get close to rhinos and other wildlife, all while avoiding crowds.
Read moreLamu Island
Watamu and Lamu Archipelago
PlaceThe Kenyan coast is a place I find truly enchanting, with its mix of beaches, turquoise waters, and vibrant cultures. Watamu is my personal favourite, it has a wonderful range of excellent restaurants and plenty of beach activities to keep you entertained: snorkelling in the Coral Gardens Marine Park, paddleboarding with dolphins or taking a dhow cruise along Mida Creek. Further north, the Lamu Archipelago, especially Manda Bay on Manda Island, stands out as a really special destination. The journey there by boat is part of the fun, and the remote feel of the area never fails to impress. The coast is best visited from mid-October to April when the weather is at its best, while I’d avoid September due to the large drifts of seaweed.
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Olare Motorogi Conservancy
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Kicheche Laikipia
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Porini Rhino Camp
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Porini Lion Camp
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Saruni Basecamp
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Manda Bay
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Ocean Sports Resort
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Sabache Eco Camp
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Elephant Bedroom Camp
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Mara North Conservancy
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Ol Pejeta Conservancy
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Watamu and Lamu Archipelago
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Mount Ololokwe
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Samburu National Reserve
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Nxai Pan
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Jack’s Camp
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Chobe Safari Lodge
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Chobe Game Lodge
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Rra Dinare
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Beagle Expeditions
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Jao Camp
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Vumbura Plains
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Dadès Valley
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Jebel Sirwa
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Erg Chebbi for accessible desert trekking
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Anti-Atlas Range
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M’hamid for Sahara adventures
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Morocco's Atlantic coast
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Talassemtane and the Rif Mountains
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Toubkal National Park
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Aït Bougmez Valley & M'goun Massif
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Tanzania safari in green season
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Best for an unusual coastal safari
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Underrated Arusha
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Best for a quirky Serengeti add-on
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For chimp trekking
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Best for genuine wilderness
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Best for crowd-free safaris
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Best for a wild & remote safari
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Best for African wild dogs & canoe safaris
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Best for flamingos & birdwatching
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For compact game drives & crater views
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Best for elephants and baobabs
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Tanzania’s best all-round safari park
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Tau Pan Camp
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Game drives in Ngorongoro Crater
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Try the ‘Northwest Circuit’
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Canoe on Momella Lakes
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Drive through the Rift Valley
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Hike Kilimanjaro’s Shira Plateau
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Endemic wildlife in the Eastern Arc Mountains
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Descend into Empakaai Crater
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Support the critically endangered black rhino
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Rufiji River boat safari
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See African wild dogs in the Okavango Delta
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Jebel Sirwa trek
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Valley of the Roses trek
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Lesser-known gorilla safari locations
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Chikunto Safari Lodge
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Canoe safaris in Lower Zambezi & Bangweulu
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Where to see everything in one place
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Bush Rover Migration Camp
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The Okavango Delta
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Greystoke Mahale
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Chada Katavi
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Sand Rivers
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Roho ya Selous
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Jabali Ridge
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Lake Natron Camp
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Ndutu Safari Lodge
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Namiri Plains
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Ngorongoro Serena Safari Lodge
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Ngorongoro Crater Camp
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Ngorongoro Crater Lodge
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Tarangire Safari Lodge
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Lake Manyara Tree Lodge
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Hatari Lodge
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Mbali Mbali Mahale Lodge
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Manyara Best View Lodge
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See chimpanzees at Mahale Mountains
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Walking safaris in Ruaha National Park
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Off the beaten track in Nyerere
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Tree-climbing lions at Lake Manyara
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Incredible views at Ngorongoro
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Elephants and baobabs in Tarangire
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See the migration in the Serengeti
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Dodging tourists at Victoria Falls
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Canoe safaris in Matusadona National Park
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Scenic Gonarezhou National Park
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Walking safari in Mana Pools National Park
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Elephant spotting in Hwange National Park
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Serena Serengeti Safari Lodge
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Serengeti Safari Camp
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Ulusaba Game Reserve
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Sabi Sabi Game Reserve
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Mala Mala Game Reserve
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Londolozi Game Reserve
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Lion Sands Game Reserve
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Aquila Private Game Reserve
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Pilanesberg National Park
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Waterberg Biosphere Reserve
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Pumba Game Reserve
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Lalibela Game Reserve
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Kwantu Private Game Reserve
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Kariega Game Reserve
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Shamwari Game Reserve
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Timbavati Game Reserve
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Thornybush Game Reserve
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Manyeleti Game Reserve
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Klaserie Nature Reserve
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Karongwe Game Reserve
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Kapama Game Reserve
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Balule Nature Reserve
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Sanbona Wildlife Reserve
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Best for big cats
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Maili Saba
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Offbeat Meru
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Sasaab Camp
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Umoja Village Camp
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Elephant Watch Camp
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Galdessa Camp
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Kitani Safari Lodge
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Finch Hattons
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Ol Tukai Lodge
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Cottars 1920’s Camp
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Kicheche Bush Camp
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Saruni Eagle View
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Offbeat Mara
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Up close and personal with baboons
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Lewa Conservancy
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Saruni Samburu
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Kilaguni Serena Lodge
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Saruni Rhino Camp
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Campi ya Kanzi
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Witness the migration river crossings – but expect crowds!
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Stay in a community-owned conservancy
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Learn about the living desert
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Horse ride (or ebike) past fairy circles at Wolwedans
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Wake early for sunrise at Deadvlei
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Erg Zahar trek
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Erg Chigaga trek
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Kaingo Camp
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Savé Valley Conservancy
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Imire Rhino & Wildlife Conservancy
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Great Zimbabwe
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Rhino Safari Camp
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Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge
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Ruckomechi Camp
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Camping at Main Camp
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Linkwasha Camp
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Splash Camp
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Okavango kayaking expedition
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Savute Under Canvas
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Camp out in Khutse Game Reserve
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Nata Bird Sanctuary
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See the baobabs of Kubu Island
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Khama Rhino Sanctuary
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Chitabe & Qorokwe concessions
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Birding in Liuwa Plain
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Fishing on the Lower Zambezi
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Tswalu Kalahari Private Reserve
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|Ai-|Ais/Richtersveld Transfrontier Park
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Amakhala Game Reserve
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Karoo National Park
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Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park
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Madikwe Game Reserve
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Timbavati Private Game Reserve
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Phinda Game Reserve
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Ol Doinyo Lengai ascent
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Talassemtane National Park Circuit
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Chefchaouen to Akchour Waterfalls day hike
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Tichka Plateau Traverse
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Jebel Saghro Loop
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Aït Bougmez Valley
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M’Goun Traverse
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M'goun Circuit trek
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Go bananas in Kampala
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Hike to the Spanish mosque
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See dawn over the Masai Mara in a hot air balloon
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