Africa
Much more than safari
There's some dispute over the etymology of the name 'Africa' but one theory is that it came from the Ancient Greek and Roman words for "warm" and "sunny."
If this is indeed the case, it seems sadly fitting: this is the continent that has been the object, rather than the subject, for much of its history. The continent that has been talked about and done to by outsiders, at the cost of finding its own voice and place in the world.
The tourism industry plays its own grubby role: property ownership and tax domiciliation – especially at the super luxury high-end of the market – are murky subjects. Marketing imagery is still overwhelmingly of black Africans serving wealthy white visitors. Things are changing, but not fast enough.
It almost feels tasteless to attempt to talk about "Africa" as a singular entity. Instead we'd much rather talk about its various regions, countries and locales – on the human scale, where local cultures, stories and heritage have more space to breathe.
One thing we can tell you: despite the tourism industry's emphasis on traditional safari, there's so much more to this continent than staring at the Big Five from an open-top jeep. Come for the wildlife, stay for the human connections, the emerging slow travel scene and the myriad other ways to hear, finally, Africa talking for itself.
Hidden gems in Africa
Kruger National Park
The best budget options around Kruger
ExperienceAt under $350 per night, Timbavati is a perfect budget option, however, space is often limited in the busier months for the more affordable lodges. A good alternative would be the Klaserie Private Reserve, which is right next to the Timbavati, and is still part of the Greater Kruger reserves, but will likely have more availability throughout the year for a similar budget.
Read moreMeru National Park
Ikweta Safari Camp
AccommodationIkweta Safari Camp is my go-to recommendation for Meru. It’s just 1.5 km from Murera Gate, the main entrance to Meru National Park, so you’re straight into the action without the long morning transfers that many other camps require. It combines comfort, affordability, and genuine hospitality in a way that I find rare this close to the park. Budget wise, Ikweta is at the upper mid-range. The camp is intimate, only ten tents, and service here feels personal rather than perfunctory. I always feel more like visiting family than a paying guest. A lot of that comes down to the owner, who is hands-on in a way you rarely see in safari camps these days. She’s there every morning making sure you’re well looked after, and her familiar warmth filters through the entire team. The camp has got half an eye on its green credentials – it runs entirely on solar power and grows a lot of its own food – but then again it does have a swimming pool in a water-stressed part of the world, so it’s not perfect. There are a few practical details that you won’t find in the marketing: The access road can get bumpy, especially in the rains, so a 4x4 is essential. With only ten rooms, it books up quickly in peak season, so early reservations are wise. And remember that park fees aren’t included in the room rate, budget for those separately. Ikweta is part of a small network of sister properties across Kenya, which opens up interesting options for linking itineraries, but it never feels corporate or formulaic. Overall it’s a great choice for service, intimacy and authenticity.
Read moreMeru National Park
Rhino River Camp
AccommodationI have stayed at Rhino River Camp a few times. It has been acquired by the Gamewatchers Porini group, who have done a good job of renovating the camp and bringing it up to a high standard. The camp is situated in 60 acres of private land immediately adjoining the rest of Meru National Park. It consists of seven semi-permanent cottages, most of which overlook the Kindani River with the sound of gently flowing water ever present. The camp is on the river in a very tropical setting as you can see from the photos with the swimming pool next to the river. It’s right on the edge of the National Park in this amazing jungly location – I remember thinking I was somewhere like Costa Rica! My personal highlight: the lovely bushbabies that had made themselves at home right in the dining area, was just delightful.
Read moreMeru National Park
Meru Wilderness camp
AccommodationMeru Wilderness is a traditional style mobile camp with space for just eight guests. It's operated by Laikipia Wilderness, and I know the couple who run it personally. This is the classic, simple safari experience: bucket en-suite showers, drop toilets, meals served in the dining tent or under the shade of a nearby tree. Meru Wilderness pairs nicely with the sister camp in Laikipia.
Read moreKruger National Park
Kambaku River Sands
AccommodationKambaku is such a special spot for a safari! I love it because the rooms are just incredible – they feature a lot of glass, so you feel directly connected to the wilderness. It’s perfect for finding some peace. The food is also world-class, with amazing wine tastings. It’s good value too – high season rates here are around USD 745 per person per night.
Read moreCape Town
12 Apostles Hotel
AccommodationMy guests love staying at Cape Town’s 12 Apostles, mostly because it has this incredible location situated between the Atlantic Ocean and Table Mountain. Location aside, it’s often voted one of the best luxury hotels in the city. You’re in for a real treat here.
Read moreSabi Sands Game Reserve
Dulini River Lodge
AccommodationThere are many great lodges in the Sabi Sands reserve, but I can’t think of many with as impressive a location as Dulini, situated in prime position on the Sand River. Its location alone makes it my top choice for Sabi Sands. Rates start at around ZAR 28,990 (USD 1,630) per person per night, which is actually pretty reasonable for Sabi Sands and great value.
Read moreSabi Sands Game Reserve
MalaMala Rattray’s Camp
AccommodationMy pick for Mala Mala Game Reserve is usually Rattray’s Camp where the game viewing is unrivalled, especially for the awesome populations of all the Big Five. But what I like best is the feeling of exclusivity. You’ll only have four guests per safari vehicle and only eight suites in total, so you’re pretty much on your own with the wildlife. You’ll pay around ZAR 37,200 (USD 2,050) per person per night. For your money you’ll get all the expected amenities of a high-end camp: private plunge pools, his & hers bathrooms, and so on, but for me the solitude is the real cincher.
Read moreCape Town
The Marly
AccommodationThe Marly is a five-star boutique hotel in Camps Bay – it’s one of my favourite places in Cape Town because of its beachfront location and great amenities. You’ll get a warm welcome here and the on-site spa and surrounding gourmet restaurants and bars make it my top pick for Cape Town. Expect to pay around ZAR 8,150 (USD 460) per night.
Read moreSabi Sands Game Reserve
Leopard Hills
AccommodationGame viewing at Leopard Hills feels truly exclusive – the reserve borders Kruger National Park but has no fences, allowing animals to roam freely. I’ve often seen leopards here, sometimes right near the suites or even from my private deck. Rates are punchy: ZAR 24,900 (USD 1,400) per person per night. But for that you get personal, five-star service, world-class rangers and food that is out of this world – my clients rave about the unique dining experiences like traditional doma dinners, or a private meal under the stars.
Read moreSabi Sands Game Reserve
Sabi Sabi Earth Lodge
AccommodationMy top pick in Sabi Sands is Sabi Sabi Earth Lodge. I have been visiting and sending clients to this lodge for over 25 years, and the feedback on the accommodation and food has always been superb. The rangers and trackers are generational, so in essence they are following in their fathers and grandfathers’ footsteps. You’re almost guaranteed the Big Five, but the rangers and trackers offer so much more, as their knowledge goes so deep. At ZAR 39,000 (USD 2,190) per person per night, it doesn’t come cheap – but if it fits your budget, it’s money well spent.
Read moreMasai Mara National Reserve
Olare Motorogi Conservancy
PlaceOne of my favourite of all the Mara conservancies, Olare Motorogi Conservancy is tiny – just ten tents, making it ideal for those seeking a quieter, more personal encounter with the wilderness. There are five concessions here: Porini Lion Camp, Kicheche Bush Camp, Mara Plains Camp, Olare Mara Kempinski and Mahali Mzuri, all of which are excellent, although Porini Lion Camp probably gets my top vote. You'll struggle to find a quieter, less crowded safari anywhere else in Kenya.
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The best budget options around Kruger
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Ikweta Safari Camp
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Rhino River Camp
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Meru Wilderness camp
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Kambaku River Sands
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12 Apostles Hotel
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Dulini River Lodge
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MalaMala Rattray’s Camp
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The Marly
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Leopard Hills
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Sabi Sabi Earth Lodge
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Olare Motorogi Conservancy
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Kicheche Laikipia
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Porini Rhino Camp
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Porini Lion Camp
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Saruni Basecamp Mara
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Manda Bay
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Ocean Sports Resort
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Sabache Eco Camp
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Elephant Bedroom Camp
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Mara North Conservancy
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Ol Pejeta Conservancy
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Watamu and Lamu Archipelago
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Mount Ololokwe
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Samburu National Reserve
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Nxai Pan
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Jack’s Camp
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Chobe Safari Lodge
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Chobe Game Lodge
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Rra Dinare
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Beagle Expeditions
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Jao Camp
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Vumbura Plains
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Dadès Valley
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Jebel Sirwa
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Erg Chebbi for accessible desert trekking
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Anti-Atlas Range
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M’hamid for Sahara adventures
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Morocco's Atlantic coast
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Talassemtane and the Rif Mountains
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Toubkal National Park
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Aït Bougmez Valley & M'goun Massif
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Tanzania safari in green season
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Best for an unusual coastal safari
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Underrated Arusha
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Best for a quirky Serengeti add-on
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Best for genuine wilderness
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For chimp trekking
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Best for crowd-free safaris
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Best for a wild & remote safari
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Best for African wild dogs & canoe safaris
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Best for flamingos & birdwatching
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For compact game drives & crater views
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Best for elephants and baobabs
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Tanzania’s best all-round safari park
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Tau Pan Camp
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Game drives in Ngorongoro Crater
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Try the ‘Northwest Circuit’
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Canoe on Momella Lakes
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Drive through the Rift Valley
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Hike Kilimanjaro’s Shira Plateau
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Endemic wildlife in the Eastern Arc Mountains
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Descend into Empakaai Crater
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Support the critically endangered black rhino
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Rufiji River boat safari
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See African wild dogs in the Okavango Delta
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Jebel Sirwa trek
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Valley of the Roses trek
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Lesser-known gorilla safari locations
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Chikunto Safari Lodge
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Canoe safaris in Lower Zambezi & Bangweulu
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Where to see everything in one place
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Bush Rover Migration Camp
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The Okavango Delta
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Greystoke Mahale
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Chada Katavi
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Sand Rivers
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Roho ya Selous
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Jabali Ridge
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Lake Natron Camp
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Ndutu Safari Lodge
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Namiri Plains
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Ngorongoro Serena Safari Lodge
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Ngorongoro Crater Camp
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Ngorongoro Crater Lodge
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Tarangire Safari Lodge
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Lake Manyara Tree Lodge
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Hatari Lodge
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Mbali Mbali Mahale Lodge
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Manyara Best View Lodge
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See chimpanzees at Mahale Mountains
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Walking safaris in Ruaha National Park
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Off the beaten track in Nyerere
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Tree-climbing lions at Lake Manyara
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Incredible views at Ngorongoro
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Elephants and baobabs in Tarangire
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See the migration in the Serengeti
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Victoria Falls
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Matusadona National Park
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Gonarezhou National Park
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Mana Pools National Park
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Hwange National Park
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Serena Serengeti Safari Lodge
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Serengeti Safari Camp
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Ulusaba Game Reserve
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Sabi Sabi Game Reserve
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Mala Mala Game Reserve
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Londolozi Game Reserve
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Lion Sands Game Reserve
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Aquila Private Game Reserve
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Pilanesberg National Park
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Waterberg Biosphere Reserve
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Pumba Game Reserve
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Lalibela Game Reserve
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Kwantu Private Game Reserve
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Kariega Game Reserve
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Shamwari Game Reserve
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Timbavati Game Reserve
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Thornybush Game Reserve
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Manyeleti Game Reserve
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Klaserie Nature Reserve
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Karongwe Game Reserve
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Kapama Game Reserve
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Balule Nature Reserve
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Sanbona Wildlife Reserve
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Best for big cats
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Maili Saba
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Sasaab Camp
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Umoja Village Camp
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Elephant Watch Camp
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Galdessa Camp
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Kitani Safari Lodge
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Finch Hattons
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Ol Tukai Lodge
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Cottars 1920’s Camp
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Kicheche Bush Camp
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Saruni Eagle View
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Offbeat Mara
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Up close and personal with baboons
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Lewa Conservancy
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Saruni Samburu
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Kilaguni Serena Lodge
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Saruni Rhino Camp
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Campi ya Kanzi
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Witness the migration river crossings – but expect crowds!
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Stay in a community-owned conservancy
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Learn about the living desert
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Horse ride (or ebike) past fairy circles at Wolwedans
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Wake early for sunrise at Deadvlei
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Erg Zahar trek
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Erg Chigaga trek
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Kaingo Camp
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Savé Valley Conservancy
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Imire Rhino & Wildlife Conservancy
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Great Zimbabwe
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Rhino Safari Camp
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Chilo Gorge Safari Lodge
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Ruckomechi Camp
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Camping at Main Camp
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Linkwasha Camp
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Splash Camp
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Okavango kayaking expedition
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Savute Under Canvas
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Camp out in Khutse Game Reserve
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Nata Bird Sanctuary
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See the baobabs of Kubu Island
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Khama Rhino Sanctuary
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Chitabe & Qorokwe concessions
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Birding in Liuwa Plain
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Fishing on the Lower Zambezi
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Tswalu Kalahari Private Reserve
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|Ai-|Ais/Richtersveld Transfrontier Park
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Amakhala Game Reserve
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Karoo National Park
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Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park
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Madikwe Game Reserve
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Timbavati Private Game Reserve
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Phinda Game Reserve
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Ol Doinyo Lengai ascent
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Talassemtane National Park Circuit
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Chefchaouen to Akchour Waterfalls day hike
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Tichka Plateau Traverse
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Jebel Saghro Loop
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Aït Bougmez Valley
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M’Goun Traverse
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M'goun Circuit trek
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Go bananas in Kampala
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Hike to the Spanish mosque
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See dawn over the Masai Mara in a hot air balloon
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